LESSON XIX
THE NAMING OF PRECIOUS STONES
Owing to the confusion which may result from a lack of uniformity in the naming of precious stones, it is very desirable that jewelers and stone merchants inform themselves in regard to the correct use of the names of the gems, and that they use care in speaking and in writing such names.
As nearly all precious and semi-precious stones are derived from a relatively small number of mineral species, as we saw in [Lesson XVIII.], and as the science of mineralogy has a very orderly and systematic method of naming the minerals, the best results are had in the naming of gems when we use, as far as is possible, the language of mineralogy.
Ancient Usage. Long established custom and usage, however, must be observed, for any system of naming must be generally understood in order to be useful. Thus the proper name for blood red, crystallized oxide of aluminum, of gem quality, according to the mineralogical system of naming, would be red corundum, but that same material is referred to in the Old Testament thus (in speaking of wisdom), "She is more precious than rubies." It is obviously necessary to keep and to use all such terms as have been for years established in usage, even though they do not agree with the scientific method of naming the particular mineral. It is, however, necessary that any name, thus retained, should be correctly used, and that it should not be applied to more than one material. Thus the term ruby should be reserved exclusively for red corundum, and not applied to other red minerals such as garnet, spinel, etc., as is too often done.
It will be the purpose of this lesson to attempt to set forth as clearly and as briefly as possible what constitutes good usage in the naming of the principal stones, and also to point out what incorrect usage is most in need of being avoided.
To cover the subject systematically we will adopt the order of hardness that we did in discussing mineral species in [Lesson XVIII].
Fancy Diamonds. Beginning with the hardest of all gems, the diamond, we have no difficulty as regards naming, as all specimens of this mineral, regardless of color, are called diamonds. When it is necessary to designate particular colors or tints, or differences in tint, additional names are used—for example, all diamonds of pronounced and pleasing color are called "fancy" diamonds in the trade. Certain of these "fancy" diamonds are still further defined by using a name specifying the color, as, for example, "canary" diamonds (when of a fine bright yellow), or "golden fancies," when of a fine golden brown, or "orange," or "pink," or "absinthe green," or "violet," as the case may be.
Names of Various Grades of White Diamonds. The great majority of the diamonds which come on the market as cut stones belong, however, to the group which would be spoken of as white diamonds, but many qualifying names are needed to express the degree of approach to pure white possessed by different grades of these diamonds. Thus the terms: 1, Jägers; 2, Rivers; 3, Blue Wesseltons; 4, Wesseltons; 5, Top Crystals; 6, Crystals; 7, very light brown; 8, Top Silver Capes; 9, Silver Capes; 10, Capes; 11, Yellows, and 12, Browns, describe increasing depth of color, and hence decreasing value in diamonds.
Popular Names. Certain more popular names for diamonds of differing degrees of whiteness may next be set forth. The term "blue white" (a much abused expression, by the way) should be applied only to diamonds of such a close approach to pure whiteness of body substance, as seen on edge in the paper that, when faced up and undimmed, they give such a strong play of prismatic blue that any slight trace of yellow in their substance is completely disguised, and the effect upon the eye is notably blue. This would be the case with stones of the grades from 1 through 4 in the list above. Grades 5 and 6 might properly be called "fine white," and grades 7, 8, and 9 simply "white." Grade 10 is frequently spoken of as "commercial white," and grade 11 sometimes as "off color." Grade 12 includes all degrees of brownness except the very light shades and the deep, pretty shades of the "fancy" browns.
Rubies. Leaving the naming of the different colors of diamonds we come to the gems furnished us by the mineral known as corundum. As we have previously seen, this mineral occurs in many different colors and with wide differences of tint and shade in each of the principal colors. The best practice with regard to naming the corundum gems is to call the red material, when of a good, full red of pleasing shade, ruby. The finest shades of blood red are usually called "Burmah rubies" because more rubies of this quality are found in Burmah than anywhere else. Any ruby of the required shade would, however, be called a Burmah ruby in the trade regardless of its geographical origin. The most desirable tint among Burmah rubies is that which is known as "pigeon blood" in color. This color is perhaps more accurately defined as like the color in the center of the red of the solar spectrum. Certain slightly deeper red rubies are said to be of "beef blood" color. The English are said to prefer these. Those of slightly lighter tint than pigeon blood are sometimes referred to as of "French color," from the fact that they are preferred by French connoisseurs.
Rubies of dark, garnet-like shade are known as "Siam rubies," many such being found in that country. Light pinkish rubies are called "Ceylon rubies." It should be clearly kept in mind that all these "rubies" are of red corundum, and that in all their distinctive properties except color they are essentially similar.
Sapphires. Corundum of fine blue color is known as "sapphire." The "cornflower blue" seems to be most in favor at present. Such sapphires are sometimes called "Kashmir sapphires" because many fine ones come from that State. "Ceylon sapphires" are usually paler than the cornflower blue. "Montana sapphires" are usually of greenish blue or pale electric blue. Such fine blue stones as are mined in Montana would be sold under another name according to the quality of their color, and not as "Montana sapphires." "Australian sapphires" are of a very deep, inky blue, and do not command a high price. Here again, as with rubies, the classification depends upon the color rather than upon the origin, although the geographical names that are used, correctly state the usual source of stones of the particular color.
All corundums other than ruby and blue sapphire are usually called by the term "sapphire," with a qualifying adjective designating the color; thus we may have pink sapphire, golden sapphire, green sapphire, etc. When of very fine yellow color the yellow sapphire is sometimes called "Oriental topaz" by jewelers, the term "Oriental" as thus used indicating that the material is corundum. We also have "Oriental amethyst" and "Oriental emerald" for the purple, and the fine green, and "Oriental aquamarine" for the light blue-green corundum. The yellow corundum is also sometimes called "King topaz," especially in Ceylon. Inferior sapphires of almost every conceivable color are frequently assorted in lots and sold as "fancy sapphires." Such lots, however, almost always need reclassification as they often contain as many as a dozen mineral species besides corundum.
Sapphires and rubies of minute tubular internal structure frequently display a beautiful six-pointed star when cut to a round-topped cabochon shape and exposed to direct sunlight or to light from any other single source. Such stones are named "star sapphire" and "star ruby."
The artificial rubies and sapphires should all be called scientific ruby or sapphire, and not "reconstructed" or "synthetic" as none are made to-day from small, real rubies, and as the process is in no sense a chemical synthesis.
Chrysoberyl. Leaving the corundum gems we come next to chrysoberyl. When the gems furnished by this mineral are of a fine green by daylight, and of a raspberry red by artificial light, as is sometimes the case, they should be called "Alexandrites" (after the Czar Alexander II., in whose dominions, and on whose birthday, the first specimens are said to have been discovered). When chrysoberyl is of fibrous or tubular internal structure it affords cat's-eyes (when cabochon cut), and these should be specifically named as "chrysoberyl cat's-eye" to distinguish them from the less beautiful and less valuable quartz cat's-eyes. Other varieties of chrysoberyl (most of those marketed are of a greenish-yellow color) are correctly named simply "chrysoberyls." Such stones are, however, sometimes incorrectly called "chrysolite" by the trade, and this practice should be corrected, as the term chrysolite applies correctly only to the mineral olivine which gives us the peridot.
Spinel. Next in the order that we have chosen comes "spinel." The more valuable spinels are of a red color that somewhat closely approaches the red of some rubies. Such red spinels should be called "Ruby spinel" (and not spinel ruby). The stones themselves sometimes get mixed with corundum rubies (they are frequently found in the same gem gravels), and this makes it all the more necessary that both stones and names should be clearly distinguished. Some dealers call reddish spinels "Balas ruby" (rose red), and orange red ones "rubicelle." Violet red spinel is sometimes called "almandine spinel." It is very desirable that the name of the mineral species, spinel, should be used, together with a qualifying color adjective, in naming gems of this species, rather than such terms as "rubicelle," "balas ruby," "spinel ruby," etc.
Topaz. We come now to topaz. True, or precious topaz, as it is usually called, to distinguish it from the softer and less valuable yellow quartz, is seldom seen in the trade to-day. Jewelers almost always mean yellow quartz when they speak of "topaz." This is an unfortunate confusion of terms, and one which will be hard to eradicate. There is seldom any injustice done through this misnaming, as the price charged is usually a fair one for the material offered. Considerably higher prices would be necessary if true topaz was in question.
An instance from the writer's experience will serve to illustrate the confusion that exists in the trade as to what should be called topaz. A jeweler of more than ordinary acquaintance with gems exhibited some fine brooch stones as specimens of topaz. On remarking that they were of course citrine quartz rather than true topaz, the author was met with the statement that the brooch stones were real topaz. In order to make clear to the dealer the difference between the two species, the author asked him if he hadn't some smaller topazes in stock that had cost him considerably more than the brooch stones. The dealer replied that he had some small wine yellow topazes for which he had paid more, and he produced them. The latter stones were true Brazilian topazes. Most of them had tiny, crackly flaws in them, as is frequently the case, and, as the writer pointed out to the dealer, they had been bought by the carat, whereas the large brooch stones had been bought at a certain price per pennyweight. In fact the little stones had cost more per carat than the larger ones had per pennyweight.
The dealer was then asked if there must not be some difference in the real nature of the two lots to justify paying more per carat for small, imperfect stones than per pennyweight for large perfect ones. He of course acknowledged that it would appear reasonable that such was the case. He was next shown that his small true topazes scratched his large stones easily, but the large ones could get no hold upon the surfaces of the small ones. (It will be remembered that topaz has a hardness of 8, while quartz has a hardness of 7.) The explanation then followed that the two lots were from two entirely distinct minerals, topaz and quartz, and that the former was harder, took a somewhat better polish, and was more rare (in fine colors) than quartz. Of course the yellow quartz should be sold under the proper name, citrine quartz. (From the same root that we have in "citrus" as applied to fruits. For example the "California Citrus Fruit Growers' Association," which sells oranges, lemons, grape fruit, etc. The color implication is obvious.) If the jeweler still wishes to use the term "topaz" because of the familiarity of the public with that name, then he should at least qualify it in some way. One name that is current for that purpose is "Spanish topaz," another is "Quartz-topaz." Perhaps the latter is the least objectionable of the names that include the word topaz.
Some of the wine yellow true topazes lose the yellow, but retain the pink component, on being gently heated. The resulting pink stone is rather pretty and usually commands a higher price than the yellow topazes. Such artificially altered topazes should be sold only for what they are, and probably the name "pinked topaz," implying, as it does, that something has been done to the stone, is as good a name as any. There is, however, little chance of fraud in this connection, as natural pink topazes are not seen in the trade, being very rare.
Some bluish-green topaz is said to be sold as aquamarine, and this confusion of species and of names should, of course, be stopped by an actual determination of the material as to its properties. Lacking a refractometer, the widely differing specific gravities of the two minerals would easily serve to distinguish them.