CARPENTER’S
WORLD TRAVELS

Familiar Talks About Countries
and Peoples

WITH THE AUTHOR ON THE SPOT AND
THE READER IN HIS HOME, BASED
ON THREE HUNDRED THOUSAND
MILES OF TRAVEL
OVER THE GLOBE

THE HOLY LAND
AND SYRIA

CHRISTIANS RULE THE LAND OF CHRIST

Seven hundred years of Moslem supremacy in the Holy Land ended with General Allenby’s modest entrance into Jerusalem. Then arose the cry. “The day of deliverance is come.”

CARPENTER’S WORLD TRAVELS

THE HOLY LAND
AND SYRIA

BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER
LITT.D., F.R.G.S.

NINETY-SIX PAGES OF
ILLUSTRATIONS FROM
ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS
AND TWO MAPS IN COLOUR

GARDEN CITY NEW YORK
DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY
1923

COPYRIGHT, 1922, BY
FRANK G. CARPENTER
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OF TRANSLATION
INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN

PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES
AT
THE COUNTRY LIFE PRESS. GARDEN CITY. N. Y.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

In the publication of this volume on the Holy Land and Syria, I wish to thank the Secretary of State for letters which have given me the assistance of our official representatives in the countries visited. I also thank our Secretary of Agriculture and our Secretary of Labour for appointing me an Honorary Commissioner of their Departments in foreign lands. Their credentials have been of the greatest value, making accessible to me sources of information seldom opened to the ordinary traveller.

I wish to acknowledge also the valuable assistance and coöperation rendered by Mr. Dudley Harmon, my editor, and Miss Josephine Lehmann in the revision of the notes dictated or penned by me on the ground.

While most of the illustrations are from my own negatives, there are certain photographs which have been supplied by the Near East Relief, the Red Cross, the Publishers’ Photo Service, and the Zionist Organization of America, all of which are protected by copyright.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE
I Just a Word Before We Start [1]
II In the Land of Goshen [4]
III The City of Jonah [14]
IV By Railway to the Land of Judea [23]
V From Dan to Beersheba [30]
VI Jerusalem in the Twentieth Century [36]
VII Around the Walls of the Holy City [43]
VIII “The Tribes of God Go Thither” [48]
IX On the Site of Solomon’s Temple [57]
X Jews of Palestine [68]
XI The Evil Eye [78]
XII Easter in Jerusalem [84]
XIII Washing the Feet of the Apostles [95]
XIV A Talk with the Greek Patriarch [101]
XV Among the Money Changers [111]
XVI Excavating Old Jericho [119]
XVII The Dead Sea and the Jordan [129]
XVIII Bethlehem [138]
XIX Among the Samaritans [149]
XX Farming in the Land of Milk and Honey [159]
XXI The Colonies and Their Development [169]
XXII Where Our Saviour Spent His Boyhood [177]
XXIII On the Sea of Galilee [187]
XXIV The Zionist Movement [196]
XXV The World’s Oldest City [204]
XXVI Shopping in the Street Called Straight [214]
XXVII The Veiled Women of Damascus [223]
XXVIII Baalbek the Wonderful [232]
XXIX Across the Lebanon Mountains by Rail [242]
XXX American Leaven in the Near East [252]
XXXI At the Shrine of Diana of the Ephesians [262]
XXXII Armenia, the Suffering [271]
XXXIII Palestine and Syria under New Rulers [280]
Seeing the World [287]
Bibliography [289]
Index [293]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Christians rule the Land of Christ [Frontispiece]
FACING PAGE
Primitive water wheel in the Land of Goshen [8]
Through rocky wastes to the top of Mt. Sinai [9]
Egyptians toiling where the Israelites made bricks [16]
We go ashore in small boats at Jaffa [17]
House of Simon the Tanner [17]
The men of Palestine are very strong [20]
Cactus hedges are used instead of fences [21]
The crude plough of Palestine [28]
The children of the Holy Land [28]
A sheeted Balaam and his ass [29]
Fuel is scarce in the land of no woods [32]
The Pool of Hezekiah [33]
Airplane view of Jerusalem [36]
The Kaiser’s breach in the Wall of Jerusalem [37]
The roofs of Jerusalem [44]
View of the Mt. of Olives [44]
Jerusalem seen from a bell tower [45]
Sheep and goats outside the walls [48]
Lepers beg at the Gates of Jerusalem [49]
The roads to Jaffa and Bethlehem [49]
Water carriers old and new [52]
“Going up to Jerusalem” [53]
A donkey ambulance for pilgrims on the march [53]
Pilgrims bathing in the River Jordan [60]
Russian women walk from shrine to shrine [61]
The Mosque of Omar [64]
The Jews’ wailing place [65]
A maid of Jerusalem [68]
Snow in the streets of Jerusalem [69]
Three learned Jews of the Holy City [76]
The Tower of David [77]
Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre [80]
Keeping off the evil spirits [81]
Grandfather and grandson—both beggars [84]
Pilgrims praying in the Via Dolorosa [85]
Waiting for the Holy Fire [92]
Gathering the olive crop [93]
The Church of the Lord’s Prayer [96]
Washing the feet of the twelve bishops [97]
A tailor shop in Jerusalem [100]
The church of the best religious paintings [101]
Commercializing the holiness of the Holy City [108]
Moslem priest reading the Koran [108]
The biblical good measure [109]
Bethlehem maids [112]
Bushels of rosaries [113]
A Turkish restaurant in Jerusalem [116]
In the shoemaker’s bazaar [116]
View of Bethany from hillside [117]
The Fountain of Elisha [124]
At the Tomb of Lazarus [125]
The Healing Stone on the way to Jordan [125]
The source of the Jordan at Banias [128]
Our escort to the River Jordan [129]
On the shores of the Dead Sea [132]
Fisherman and boat on the Jordan [132]
A street in Bethlehem [133]
Christmas Day services in Bethlehem [140]
Young women and their dowries [141]
At Jacob’s Well [144]
The Sacred Scroll of the Samaritans [145]
The Feast of the Passover on Mt. Gerizim [148]
Pulling tares from the wheat [149]
The camel blubbers as his hair is clipped [149]
Why Palestinians use camels for ploughing [156]
Modern farm machinery in the Jewish colony [156]
The sheep that was lost is found [157]
Colonists terrace the hillsides with stone walls [160]
Picking almonds [161]
An avenue of cypresses and palms [164]
A carpenter shop in Nazareth [165]
Nazareth lies in a little amphitheatre [172]
The boys of Nazareth are friendly [172]
Mr. Carpenter and the Water Pot of Cana [173]
We cross the Sea of Galilee [176]
The arched Gate of Tiberias [177]
Fish from the Sea of Galilee [180]
Capernaum—the city of prophecy fulfilled [180]
The colonists do much of their own work [181]
Making the bread of Bible times [188]
A colonist’s home near Lake Merom [189]
A prayer niche in the Grand Mosque [192]
Where Fatima lies buried in Damascus [193]
A place of trees with a river flowing between [196]
The Wall of St. Paul in Damascus [196]
Shopping in the Street called Straight [197]
The men come together in the horse market [204]
“O Allah, send customers,” cry the bread-sellers [204]
Spinning wool into thread for a rug [205]
The transportation monopoly of the Bedouin [208]
At the end of the Bookseller’s Bazaar [209]
The street dress of the women of Damascus [224]
Mr. Carpenter and the Columns at Baalbek [225]
The portal of the Temple of Bacchus [228]
The mighty columns of the Temple of the Sun [229]
The nomad Bedouins live in brown tents [236]
A lonely grove of Lebanon cedars [237]
Only a few of the great trees are left [240]
Tree-lined avenues lead out of Beirut [241]
The American University at Beirut [244]
Stones carried up on the backs of camels [244]
A view of Beirut [245]
The ruins of the City of Diana [252]
Storks build their nests in the palaces of Ephesus [252]
Giving the silkworms their breakfast [253]
Armenian children make themselves useful [256]
Getting the Armenians back to the land [257]
A cradle of Armenia [260]
American flour sacks serve a double purpose [260]
The water power of the Jordan will be developed [261]
The first steel bridge across the Jordan [268]
Jerusalem now has a speed law [269]
MAPS
The Holy Land [24]
The Holy Land and Syria [40]