Reminiscences of Pioneer Days in St. Paul / A Collection of Articles Written for and Published in the Daily Pioneer Press

by Frank Moore

THE FIRST AMUSEMENT HALLS IN ST. PAUL.

INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH THE EARLY AMUSEMENT HALLS OF ST. PAUL—IRVINE HALL—DAN EMMET AND DIXIE—THE HUTCHINSONS—MAZURKA HALL, MOZART HALL, ETC.

Very few of the 200,000 inhabitants of St. Paul are aware that the three-story, three-cornered building on Third street at Seven Corners once contained one of the most popular amusement halls in the city. It was called Irvine hall, and at one time Melodeon hall. Dan Emmet had a minstrel company at this hall during the years 1857 and 1858, and an excellent company it was, too. There was Frank Lombard, the great baritone; Max Irwin, bones, and one of the funniest men who ever sat on the stage; Johnny Ritter, female impersonator and clog dancer, and a large number of others. Frank Lombard afterward achieved a national reputation as one of the best baritone singers in the country. He was much sought after for patriotic entertainments and political conventions. His masterpiece was the Star-Spangled Banner, and his great baritone voice, which could be heard for blocks, always brought enthusiastic applause. Some time during the summer of 1858 the Hutchinson family arranged to have the hall for a one-night entertainment. By some means or other the troupe got separated and one of the brothers got stalled on Pig's Eye bar. When their performance was about half over the belated brother reached the hall and rushed frantically down the aisle, with carpetbag in hand, leaped upon the stage, and in full view of the audience proceeded to kiss the entire tribe. The audience was under the impression they had been separated for years instead of only twenty-four hours. The next evening Max Irwin was missing from his accustomed place as one of the end men, and when the performance had been in progress for about fifteen minutes Max came rushing down the aisle with carpetbag in hand and went through the same performance as did the lost brother of the Hutchinson family. The effect was electrical, and for some time Max's innovation was the talk of the town. Dan Emmet, though a wondering minstrel, was a very superior man and was his own worst enemy. He was a brother of Lafayette S. Emmett, chief justice of the supreme court of the State of Minnesota. The judge, dignified and aristocratic, did not take kindly to the idea of his brother being a minstrel. Dan was not particularly elated because his brother was on the supreme bench. They were wholly indifferent as to each other's welfare. They did not even spell their names the same way. Dan had only one "t" at the end of his name, while the judge used two. Whether the judge used two because he was ashamed of Dan, or whether Dan used only one because he was ashamed of the judge, no one seemed to know. Dan Emmet left a legacy that will be remembered by the lovers of melody for many years. What left the judge? When Emmet's company left St. Paul they got stranded and many of them found engagements in other organizations. Dan turned his attention to writing negro melodies. He wrote several popular airs, one of them being "Dixie," which afterward became the national air of the Confederate States. When "Dixie" was written Emmet was connected with Bryant's Minstrels in New York city, and he sent a copy to his friend in St. Paul, the late R.C. Munger, and asked his opinion as to its merits and whether he thought it advisable to place it in the hands of a publisher. Mr. Munger assured his friend that he thought it would make a great hit, and he financially assisted Mr. Emmet in placing it before the public. One of the first copies printed was sent to Mr. Munger, and the first time this celebrated composition was ever sung in the West was in the music store of Munger Bros, in the old concert hall building on Third street. "Dixie" at once became very popular, and was soon on the program of every minstrel troupe in the country. Dan Emmet devoted his whole life to minstrelsy and he organized the first traveling minstrel troupe in the United States, starting from some point in Ohio in 1843.

The father of the Emmets was a gallant soldier of the War of 1812, and at one time lived in the old brown frame house at the intersection of Ramsey and West Seventh streets, recently demolished. A correspondent of one of the magazines gives the following account of how "Dixie" happened to become the national air of the Confederate States:

"Early in the war a spectacular performance was being given in New Orleans. Every part had been filled, and all that was lacking was a march and war song for the grand chorus. A great many marches and songs were tried, but none could be decided upon until 'Dixie' was suggested and tried, and all were so enthusiastic over it that it was at once adopted and given in the performance. It was taken up immediately by the populace and was sung in the streets and in homes and concert halls daily. It was taken to the battlefields, and there became the great song of the South, and made many battles harder for the Northerner, many easier for the Southerner. Though it has particularly endeared itself to the South, the reunion of American hearts has made it a national song. Mr. Lincoln ever regarded it as a national property by capture."

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The Hutchinson family often visited St. Paul, the enterprising town of Hutchinson, McLeod county, being named after them. They were a very patriotic family and generally sang their own music. How deliberate the leader of the tribe would announce the title of the song about to be produced. Asa Hutchinson would stand up behind the melodeon, and with a pause between each word inform the audience that "Sister—Abby—will—now—sing—the—beautiful—song—composed— by—Lucy—Larcum—entitled—'Hannah—Is—at—the—Window—Binding— Shoes.'" And sister Abby would sing it, too. During the early part of the war the Hutchinson family was ordered out of the Army of the Potomac by Gen. McClellan on account of the abolition sentiments expressed in its songs. The general was apparently unable to interpret the handwriting on the wall, as long before the war was ended the entire army was enthusiastically chanting that beautiful melody to the king of abolitionists—

"John Brown's body lies moldering in the grave
And his soul is marching on."

Gen. McClellan was at one time the idol of the army, as well as of the entire American people. Before the war he was chief engineer of the Illinois Central railroad and made frequent trips to St. Paul to see the future Mrs. McClellan, a Miss Marcy, daughter of Maj. R.B. Marcy of the regular army, who lived in the old Henry M. Rice homestead on Summit avenue. When Gen. McClellan was in command of the Army of the Potomac Maj. Marcy was his chief of staff.

One of the original Hutchinsons is still living, as indicated by the following dispatch, published since the above was written:

"Chicago, Ill., Jan. 4, 1902.—John W. Hutchinson, the last survivor of the famous old concert-giving Hutchinson family, which was especially prominent in anti-bellum times, received many congratulations to-day on the occasion of his eighty-first birthday, Mr. Hutchinson enjoys good health and is about to start on a new singing and speaking crusade through the South, this time against the sale and us of cigarettes. Mr. Hutchinson made a few remarks to the friends who had called upon him, in the course of which he said: 'I never spent a more enjoyable birthday than this, except upon the occasion of my seventy-fifth, which I spent in New York and was tendered a reception by the American Temperance union, of which I was the organizer. Of course you will want me to sing to you, and I think I will sing my favorite song, which I wrote myself. It is "The Fatherhood of God and the Brotherhood of Man." I have written a great many songs, among them "The Blue and the Gray," "Good old Days of Yore," and some others that I cannot remember now. I sang the "Blue and the Gray" in Atlanta six years ago, at the time of the exposition there, and McKinley was there. I had the pleasure of saying a few words at that time about woman's suffrage. I wrote the first song about woman's suffrage and called it "Good Times for Women." This is the 11,667th concert which I have taken part in.'"

The venerable singer is reputed to be quite wealthy. A few years ago one of the children thought the old man was becoming entirely too liberal in the distribution of his wealth, and brought an action in the New York courts requesting the appointment of a guardian to his estate. The white-haired musician appeared in court without an attorney, and when the case was about to be disposed of made a request of the judge, which was granted, that he might be sworn. After Mr. Hutchinson had made his statement to the court the judge asked a few questions. "How is your memory?" said the judge. "Memory," replied the old man. "I remember the flavor of the milk at the maternal fountain." The judge concluded that Mr. Hutchinson was fully capable of managing his own affairs.

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Concert hall, built in 1857 by J.W. McClung, had room for 400 or 500 people, but it was somewhat inaccessible on account of its being in the basement of the building and was not very much in demand. Horatio Seymour made a great speech to the Douglas wing of the Democracy in the hall during the campaign of 1880, and Tom Marshall, the great Kentucky orator, delivered a lecture on Napoleon to a large audience In the same place. On the night of the presidential election in 1860 a number of musicians who had been practicing on "Dixie" and other music in Munger's music store came down to the hall and entertained the Republicans who had gathered there for the purpose of hearing the election returns. There was a great deal more singing than there was election returns, as about all the news they were able to get was from the four precincts of St. Paul, New Canada, Rose and Reserve townships and West St. Paul. We had a telegraph line, to be sure, but Mr. Winslow, who owned the line, would not permit the newspapers, or any one else, to obtain the faintest hint of how the election had gone in other localities. After singing until 11 or 12 o'clock, and abusing Mr. Winslow in language that the linotype is wholly unable to reproduce, the crowd dispersed. Nothing could be heard of how the election had gone until the following afternoon, when Gov. Ramsey received a dispatch from New York announcing that that state had given Mr. Lincoln 50,000 majority. As that was the pivotal state the Republicans immediately held a jollification meeting.

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Tom Marshall was one of the most eloquent orators America ever produced. He was spending the summer in Minnesota endeavoring to recover from the effects of an over-indulgence of Kentucky's great staple product, but the glorious climate of Minnesota did not seem to have the desired effect, as he seldom appeared on the street without presenting the appearance of having discovered in the North Star State an elixer fully as invigorating as any produced in the land where colonels, orators and moonshiners comprise the major portion of the population. One day as Marshall came sauntering down Third street he met a club of Little Giants marching to a Democratic gathering. They thought they would have a little sport at the expense of the distinguished orator from Kentucky, and they haulted immediately in front of him and demanded a speech. They knew that Mr. Marshall was a pronounced Whig and supported the candidacy of Bell and Everett, but as he was from a slave state they did not think he would say anything reflecting on the character of their cherished leader. Mr. Marshall stepped to the front of the sidewalk and held up his hand and said: "Do you think Douglas will ever be president? He will not, as no man of his peculiar physique ever entered the sacred portals of the White House." He then proceeded to denounce Douglas and the Democratic party in language that was very edifying to the few Republicans who chanced to be present. The Little Giants concluded that it was not the proper caper to select a casual passer-by for speaker, and were afterward more particular in their choice of an orator.

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One night there was a Democratic meeting in the hall and after a number of speakers had been called upon for an address, De Witt C. Cooley, who was a great wag, went around in the back part of the hall and called upon the unterrified to "Holler for Cooley." The request was complied with and Mr. Cooley's name was soon on the lips of nearly the whole audience. When Mr. Cooley mounted the platform an Irishman in the back part of the hall inquired in a voice loud enough to be heard by the entire audience, "Is that Cooley?" Upon being assured that it was, he replied in a still louder voice: "Be jabers, that's the man that told me to holler for Cooley." The laugh was decidedly on Cooley, and his attempted flight of oratory did not materialize.

Cooley was at one time governor of the third house and if his message to that body could be reproduced it would make very interesting reading.

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The Athenaeum was constructed in 1859 by the German Reading society, and for a number of years was the only amusement hall in St. Paul with a stage and drop curtain. In 1861 Peter and Caroline Richings spent a part of the summer in St. Paul, and local amusement lovers were delightfully entertained by these celebrities during their sojourn. During the war a number of dramatic and musical performances were given at the Athenaeum for the boys in blue. The cantata of "The Haymakers," for the benefit of the sanitary commission made quite a hit, and old residents will recollect Mrs. Winne, Mrs. Blakeley and Prof. Perkins, who took the leading parts. Prof. Phil Roher and Otto Dreher gave dramatic performances both in German and English for some time after the close of the war. Plunkett's Dramatic company, with Susan Denin as the star, filled the boards at this hall a short time before the little old opera house was constructed on Wabasha street. During the Sioux massacre a large number of maimed refugees were brought to the city and found temporary shelter in this place.

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In 1853 Market hall, on the corner of Wabasha and Seventh streets, was built, and it was one of the principal places of amusement. The Hough Dramatic company, with Bernard, C.W. Couldock, Sallie St. Clair and others were among the notable performers who entertained theatergoers. In 1860 the Wide Awakes used this place for a drill hall, and so proficient did the members become that many of them were enabled to take charge of squads, companies and even regiments in the great struggle that was soon to follow.

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In 1860 the Ingersoll block on Bridge Square was constructed, and as that was near the center of the city the hall on the third floor was liberally patronized for a number of years. Many distinguished speakers have entertained large and enthusiastic audiences from the platform of this popular hall. Edward Everett, Ralph Waldo Emerson and John B. Gough are among the great orators who have electrified and instructed the older inhabitants, and the musical notes of the Black Swan, Mlle. Whiting and Madame Varian will ever be remembered by those whose pleasure it was to listen to them. Mrs. Scott Siddons, an elocutionist of great ability and a descendant of the famous English family of actors of that name, gave several dramatic readings to her numerous admirers. When Sumter was fired on, Capt. W.H. Acker used this hall as a rendezvous and drill hall for Company C, First regiment of Minnesota volunteers, and many rousing war meetings for the purpose of devising ways and means for the furtherance of enlistments took place in this building.

In February, 1861, the ladies of the different Protestant churches of St. Paul, with the aid of the Young Men's Christian association, gave a social and supper in this building for the purpose of raising funds for the establishment of a library. It was a sort of dedicatory opening of the building and hall, and was attended by large delegations from the different churches. Quite a large sum was realized. A room was fitted up on the second story and the beginning of what is now the St. Paul library soon opened up to the public. About 350 books were purchased with the funds raised by the social, and the patrons of the library were required to pay one dollar per year for permission to read them. Dr. T.D. Simonton was the first librarian. Subsequently this library was consolidated with the St. Paul Mercantile Library association and the number of books more than doubled. A regular librarian was then installed with the privilege of reading the library's books raised to two dollars per annum.

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The People's theater, an old frame building on the corner of Fourth and St. Peter streets, was the only real theatrical building in the city. H. Van Liew was the lessee and manager of this place of entertainment, and he was provided with a very good stock company. Emily Dow and her brother, Harry Gossan and Azelene Allen were among the members. During the summer of 1858 Mr. and Mrs. J.W. Wallack came to St. Paul and played a two weeks' engagement. They were the most prominent actors who had yet appeared in this part of the country.

"The Man in the Iron Mask" and "Macbeth" were on their repertoire. Probably "Macbeth" was never played to better advantage or to more appreciative audiences than it was during the stay of the Wallacks. Mrs. Wallack's Lady Macbeth was a piece of acting that few of the present generation can equal. Col. R.E.J. Miles was one of the stars at this theater, and it was at this place that he first produced the play of "Mazeppa," which afterward made him famous. A.M. Carver, foreman of the job department of the St. Paul Times, often assisted in theatrical productions. Mr. Carver was not only a first-class printer, but he was also a very clever actor. His portrayal of the character of Uncle Tom in "Uncle Tom's Cabin," which had quite a run, and was fully equal to any later production by full fledged members of the dramatic profession. Mr. Carver was one of the first presidents of the International Typographical union, and died in Cincinnati many years ago, leaving a memory that will ever be cherished by all members of the art preservative.

This theater had a colored gallery, and the shaded gentry were required to pay as much for admission to the gallery at the far end of the building as did the nabobs in the parquet. Joe Rolette, the member from "Pembina" county, occasionally entertained the audience at this theater by having epileptic fits, but Joe's friends always promptly removed him from the building and the performance would go on undisturbed.

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On the second story of an old frame building on the southeast corner of Third and Exchange streets there was a hall that was at one time the principal amusement hall of the city. The building was constructed in 1850 by the Elfelt brothers and the ground floor was occupied by them as a dry goods store. It is one of the very oldest buildings in the city. The name of Elfelt brothers until quite recently could be seen on the Exchange street side of the building. The hall was named Mazurka hall, and all of the swell entertainments of the early '50s took place in this old building. At a ball given in the hall during one of the winter months more than forty years ago, J.Q.A. Ward, bookkeeper for the Minnesotian, met a Miss Pratt, who was a daughter of one of the proprietors of the same paper, and after an acquaintance of about twenty minutes mysteriously disappeared from the hall and got married. They intended to keep it a secret for a while, but it was known all over the town the next day and produced great commotion. Miss Pratt's parents would not permit her to see her husband, and they were finally divorced without having lived together.

For a number of years Napoleon Heitz kept a saloon and restaurant in this building. Heitz had participated in a number of battles under the great Napoleon, and the patrons of his place well recollect the graphic descriptions of the battle of Waterloo which he would often relate while the guest was partaking of a Tom and Jerry or an oyster stew.

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During the summer of 1860 Charles N. Mackubin erected two large buildings on the site of the Metropolitan hotel. Mozart hall was on the Third street end and Masonic hall on the Fourth street corner. At a sanitary fair held during the winter of 1864 both of these halls were thrown together and an entertainment on a large scale was held for the benefit of the almost depleted fundes of the sanitary commission. Fairs had been given for this fund in nearly all the principal cities of the North, and it was customary to vote a sword to the most popular volunteer officer whom the state had sent to the front. A large amount of money had been raised in the different cities on this plan, and the name of Col. Marshall of the Seventh regiment and Col. Uline of the Second were selected as two officers in whom it was thought the people would take sufficient interest to bring out a large vote. The friends of both candidates were numerous and each side had some one stationed at the voting booth keeping tab on the number of votes cast and the probable number it would require at the close to carry off the prize. Col. Uline had been a fireman and was very popular with the young men of the city. Col. Marshall was backed by friends in the different newspaper offices. The contest was very spirited and resulted in Col. Uline capturing the sword, he having received more than two thousand votes in one bundle during the last five minutes the polls were open. This fair was very successful, the patriotic citizens of St. Paul having enriched the funds of the sanitary commission by several thousand dollars.

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One of the first free concert halls in the city was located on Bridge Square, and it bore the agonizing name of Agony hall. Whether it was named for its agonizing music or the agonizing effects of its beverages was a question that its patrons were not able to determine.

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In anti-bellum times Washington's birthday was celebrated with more pomp and glory than any holiday during the year. The Pioneer Guards, the City Guards, the St. Paul Light Artillery, the St. Paul fire department and numerous secret organizations would form in procession and march to the capitol, and in the hall of the house of representatives elaborate exercises commemorative of the birth of the nation's first great hero would take place. Business was generally suspended and none of the daily papers would be issued on the following day.

In 1857 Adalina Patti appeared in St. Paul for the first time. She was about sixteen years old and was with the Ole Bull Concert company. They traveled on a small steamboat and gave concerts in the river towns. Their concert took place in the hall of the house of representatives of the old capitol, that being the only available place at the time. Patti's concert came near being nipped in the bud by an incident that has never been printed. Two boys employed as messengers at the capitol, both of whom are now prominent business men in the city, procured a key to the house, and, in company with a number of other kids, proceeded to representative hall, where they were frequently in the habit of congregating for the purpose of playing cards, smoking cigars, and committing such other depradations as it was possible for kids to conceive. After an hour or so of revelry the boys returned the key to its proper place and separated. In a few minutes smoke was seen issuing from the windows of the hall and an alarm of fire was sounded. The door leading to the house was forced open and it was discovered that the fire had nearly burned through the floor. The boys knew at once that it was their carelessness that had caused the alarm, and two more frightened kids never got together. They could see visions of policemen, prison bars, and even Stillwater, day and night for many years. They would often get together on a back street and in whispered tones wonder if they had yet been suspected. For more than a quarter of a century these two kids kept this secret in the innermost recesses of their hearts, and it is only recently that they dared to reveal their terrible predicament.

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A few days after Maj. Anderson was compelled to lower the Stars and Stripes on Sumter's walls a mass meeting of citizens, irrespective of party, was called to meet at the hall of the house of representatives for the purpose of expressing the indignation of the community at the dastardly attempt of the Cotton States to disrupt the government. Long before the time for the commencement of the meeting the hall was packed and it was found necessary to adjourn to the front steps of the building in order that all who desired might take part in the proceedings. Hon. John S. Prince, mayor of the city, presided, assisted by half a dozen prominent citizens as vice presidents. Hon. John M. Gilman, an honored resident of the city, was one of the principal speakers. Mr. Gilman had been the Democratic candidate for congress the fall previous, and considerable interest was manifested to hear what position he would take regarding the impending conflict. It was very soon apparent that Mr. Gilman was in hearty sympathy with the object of the meeting and his remarks were received with great demonstrations of approbation. Hon. J.W. Taylor followed Mr. Gilman and made a strong speech in favor of sustaining Mr. Lincoln. There were a number of other addresses, after which resolutions were adopted pledging the government the earnest support of the citizens, calling on the young men to enroll their names on the roster of the rapidly forming companies and declaring that they would furnish financial aid when necessary to the dependant families of those left behind. Similar meetings were held in different parts of the city a great many times before the Rebellion was subdued.

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The first Republican state convention after the state was admitted into the Union was held in the hall of the house of representatives. The state was not divided into congressional districts at that time and Col. Aldrich and William Windom were named as the candidates for representatives in congress. Col. Aldrich did not pretend to be much of an orator, and in his speech of acceptance he stated that while he was not endowed with as much oratorical ability as some of his associates on the ticket, yet he could work as hard as any one, and he promised that he would sweat at least a barrel in his efforts to promote the success of the ticket.

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Aromory hall, on Third street, between Cedar and Minnesota, was built in 1859, and was used by the Pioneer Guards up to the breaking out of the war. The annual ball of the Pioneer Guards was the swell affair of the social whirl, and it was anticipated with as much interest by the Four Hundred as the charity ball is to-day. The Pioneer Guards disbanded shortly after the war broke out, and many of its members were officers in the Union army, although two or three of them stole away and joined the Confederate forces, one of them serving on Lee's staff during the entire war. Col. Wilkin Col. King, Col. Farrell, Capt. Coates, Capt. Van Slyke, Capt. Western, Lieut. Zernberg and Lieut. Tuttle were early in the fray, while a number of others followed as the war progressed.

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It was not until the winter of 1866-67 that St. Paul could boast of a genuine opera house. The old opera house fronting on Wabasha street, on the ground that is now occupied by the Grand block, was finished that winter and opened with a grand entertainment given by local talent. The boxes and a number of seats in the parquet were sold at auction, the highest bidder being a man by the name of Philbrick, who paid $72 for a seat in the parquet. This man Philbrick was a visitor in St. Paul, and had a retinue of seven or eight people with him. It was whispered around that he was some kind of a royal personage, and when he paid $72 for a seat at the opening of the opera house people were sure that he was at least a duke. He disappeared as mysteriously as he had appeared. It was learned afterward that this mysterious person was Coal Oil Johnny out on a lark. The first regular company to occupy this theater was the Macfarland Dramatic company, with Emily Melville as the chief attraction. This little theater could seat about 1,000 people, and its seating capacity was taxed many a time long before the Grand opera house in the rear was constructed. Wendell Philips, Henry Ward Beecher, Theodore Tilton, Frederick Douglass and many others have addressed large audiences from the stage of this old opera house. An amusing incident occurred while Frederick Douglass was in St. Paul. Nearly every seat in the house had been sold long before the lecture was to commence, and when Mr. Douglass commenced speaking there was standing room only. A couple of enthusiastic Republicans found standing room in one of the small upper boxes, and directly in front of them was a well-known Democratic politician by the name of W.H. Shelley. Mr. Shelley had at one time been quite prominent in local Republican circles, but when Andrew Johnson made his famous swing around the circle Shelley got an idea that the proper thing to do was to swing around with him. Consequently the Republicans who stood up behind Mr. Shelley thought they would have a little amusement at his expense. Every time Mr. Douglass made a point worthy of applause these ungenerous Republicans would make a great demonstration, and as the audience could not see them and could only see the huge outline of Mr. Shelley they concluded that he was thoroughly enjoying the lecture and had probably come back to the Republican fold. Mr. Shelley stood it until the lecture was about half over, when he left the opera house in disgust. Mr. Shelley was a candidate for the position of collector of customs of the port of St. Paul and his name had been sent to the senate by President Johnson, but as that body was largely Republican his nomination lacked confirmation.

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About the time of the great Heenan and Sayers prize fight in England a number of local sports arranged to have a mock engagement at the Athenaeum. There was no kneitoscopic method of reproducing a fight at that time, but it was planned to imitate the great fight as closely as possible. James J. Hill was to imitate Sayers and Theodore Borup the Benecia boy. They were provided with seconds, surgeons and all the attendants necessary for properly staging the melee. It was prearranged that Theodore, in the sixth or seventh round, was to knock Hill out, but as the battle progressed, Theodore made a false pass and Hill could not desist from taking advantage of it, and the prearranged plan was reversed by Hill knocking Theodore out. And Hill has kept right on taking advantage of the false movements of his adversaries, and is now knocking them out with more adroitness than he did forty years ago.