Feeding Sporting Dogs
Amongst Masters of Hounds and breeders of other Sporting Dogs, it is a general custom to feed the animals but once a day, and in most instances this is economical and satisfactory.
To maintain an even condition of the whole pack is one of the best tests as to the huntsman's management of the pack, and the kennelman's skill in feeding them.
Like all other varieties of dogs, Hounds differ in their likes and dislikes to food, so that whilst certain members of the pack are thriving on the food set before them, others are losing flesh, otherwise not improving in condition. Another reason why one or more of the Hounds may not be "doing well" is often due to the weaker members being "snapped at" by their stronger and peevish brethren when at the feeding vessels. Observation will soon settle whether this be the cause of particular hounds not thriving.
Shy feeders should either be allowed to have the first cut at the food, or else fed by themselves, say two couples at one time. Horse-flesh and good oatmeal—or some form of Hound meal—constitutes the best staple food for Hounds. During the hot weather the flesh requires to be boiled twice or thrice weekly. As a substitute, skimmed milk can be used.
Nothing but sound horse-flesh ought to be used. Cattle, sheep, or pigs, that have died suddenly—unless certain that cause of death is of a harmless nature—should be avoided.
There is a risk of the animals contracting anthrax, deaths from this malady amongst dogs by no means being unknown.
Tuberculous cattle are equally objectionable as food for dogs.
In every instance the author recommends boiling the flesh, so that no redness, or uncooked portions remain.
The Hounds should be fed at least a couple of hours before starting off. Nothing can be worse than to run dogs with a full stomach.
Precisely the same remark applies to all other Sporting Dogs, but to the working Hound in particular.
The advantages of placing puppies "out at walk" is, as in the past, largely carried out, and the system leaves little to be desired. Most puppy walkers do justice to their charges, but huntsmen and others will do well to see that thin puppies are kept in fat conndition, and not low. The erroneous opinion, though so general, that a puppy ought to be kept down in condition when distemper is approaching, is the greatest fallacy under the sun, and one that ought to have exploded long ago.
My advice to "walkers" and to owners is to feed your puppies well and get them fat, because distemper will soon plough out their ribs, etc., if unfortunate enough—as most of the good ones are—to contract it.
A little black treacle (teaspoonful), mixed with meal, rice, etc., and given once a week, is beneficial. If too much be used, it makes the bowels loose, especially after the dogs get warm with work, etc.
A change of food is of course desirable. Pointers, Setters, Retrievers, Beagles, Terriers, etc., etc., may have dry dog-biscuits—or soaked if preferred—given to them in a morning, and soaked stale bread—with water squeezed out—mixed with cut-up meat for the evening meal.
Boiled (or raw) paunches make a splendid food for dogs, and have great nutritive value. Boiled rice, flour, and various other meals are suitable, only must have a proportionable amount of flesh added to them.
Many sportsmen believe that flesh destroys a gundog's scenting power, and others that it makes thin dogs hard-mouthed. The author cannot share this belief. For the satisfactory performance of work, a dog must be allowed flesh, and shortness of this—a dog's natural diet—is one of the chief causes of so many dogs breaking out in skin eruptions.
In addition to good food, regularly given in suitable quantities, it is necessary to see that the dogs have a plentiful supply of pure water, but it is not a good plan to give water immediately after feeding.
Another matter, in connection with feeding, that gamekeepers, etc., will do well to bear in mind, is to avoid feeding a dog on the entrails, etc., of rabbits and hares—a fruitful source of worms.