FRAIL BRIDGE ON THE ROAD TO THE VÖRING FOSS.
THE OXONIAN
IN
THELEMARKEN;
OR,
NOTES OF TRAVEL IN SOUTH-WESTERN NORWAY
IN THE SUMMERS OF 1856 AND 1857.
WITH GLANCES AT THE LEGENDARY LORE
OF THAT DISTRICT.
BY
THE REV. FREDERICK METCALFE, M.A.,
FELLOW OF LINCOLN COLLEGE, OXFORD,
AUTHOR OF
“THE OXONIAN IN NORWAY.”
“Auf den Bergen ist Freiheit; der Hauch der Grüfte,
Steigt nicht hinauf in die schönen Lüfte,
Die Welt is volkommen überall,
Wo der Mensch nicht hinein kömmt mit seiner Qual.”
“Tu nidum servas: ego laudo ruris amœni
Rivos, et musco circumlita saxa, nemusque.”
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1858.
[The right of Translation is reserved.]
LONDON:
SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS,
CHANDOS STREET.
CONTENTS TO VOL. II.
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| Danish custom-house officials—Home sickness—The ladies of Denmark—Ethnological—Swedenand its forests—Influence ofclimate on Peoples—The French court—Norwegian and Danishpronunciation—The Swiss of the North—An instance ofNorwegian slowness—Ingemann, the Walter Scott of Denmark—HansChristian Andersen—Genius in rags—The level plains ofZealand—Danish cattle—He who moveth his neighbour’s landmark—Beechgroves—The tomb of the great Valdemar—Thetwo queens—The Probst of Ringstedt—Wicked King Abel—Mormonismin Jutland—Roeskilde—Its cathedral—The Semiramisof the North—Frederick IV.—Unfortunate Matilda | [pp. 1-17] |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| Copenhagen—Children of Amak—Brisk bargaining—Specimens ofhorn fish—Unlucky dogs—Thorwaldsen’s museum—The RoyalAssistenz House—Going, gone—The Ethnographic Museum—Aninexorable professor—Lionizes a big-wig—The stone periodin Denmark—England’s want of an ethnographical collection—Alight struck from the flint in the stag’s head—The goldperiod—A Scandinavian idol’s cestus—How dead chieftainscheated fashion—Antiquities in gold—Wooden almanacks—Bridalcrowns—Scandinavian antiquities peculiarly interestingto Englishmen—Four thousand a year in return for soft sawder—Streetscenes in Copenhagen—Thorwaldsen’s colossal statues—Blushesfor Oxford and Cambridge—A Danish comedy—Wherethe warriors rest | [pp. 18-38] |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| The celebrated Three Crowns Battery—Hamlet’s grave—The Soundand its dues—To Fredericksborg—Iceland ponies—Denmark anequine paradise—From Copenhagen to Kiel—Tidemann, theNorwegian painter—Pictures at Düsseldorf—The boiling of theporridge—Düsseldorf theatricals—Memorial of Dutch courage—Youngheroes—An attempt to describe the Dutch language—TheAmsterdam canals—Half-and-half in Holland—Want of elbow-room—Anew Jerusalem—A sketch for Juvenal—The museumof Dutch paintings—Magna Charta of Dutch independence—JanSteen’s picture of the fête of Saint Nicholas—Dutch art in the17th century—To Zaandam—Traces of Peter the Great—Easytravelling—What the reeds seemed to whisper | [pp. 39-55] |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| Broek—A Dutchman’s idea of Paradise—A toy house for realpeople—Cannon-ball cheeses—An artist’s flirtation—John Bullabroad—All the fun of the fair—A popular refreshment—Moralsin Amsterdam—The Zoological Gardens—Bed and Breakfast—PaulPotter’s bull—Rotterdam | [pp. 56-64] |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| Oxford in the long vacation—The rats make such a strife—A casefor Lesbia—Interview between a hermit and a novice—Theruling passion—Blighted hopes—Norwegian windows—Tortoise-shellsoup—After dinner—Christiansand again—Ferry on theTorrisdal river—Plain records of English travellers—Salmonia—Thebridal crown—A bridal procession—Hymen, O Hymenæe!—Aripe Ogress—The head cook at a Norwegian marriage—God-fearingpeople—To Sætersdal—Neck or nothing—Lilies andlilies—The Dutch myrtle | [pp. 65-81] |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| A dreary station—Strange bed-fellows—Broadsides—Comfortableproverb—Skarp England—Interesting particulars—A hospitableNorwegian Foged—Foster-children—The great bear-hunter—Aterrible Bruin—Forty winks—The great Vennefoss—A temperancelamentation—More bear talk—Grey legs—Monosyllabicconversation—Trout fished from the briny deep—A warning tothe beaux of St. James’s-street—Thieves’ cave—A novelette forthe Adelphi | [pp. 82-100] |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| A wolf-trap—The heather—Game and game-preserves—Anoptical delusion—Sumptuous entertainment—Visit to a Norwegianstore-room—Petticoats—Curious picture of the Crucifixion—Fjordscenery—How the priest Brun was lost—ASætersdal manse—Frightfully hospitable—Eider-down quilts—Costumeof a Norwegian waiting-maid—The tartan in Norway—Anethnological inquiry—Personal characteristics—The sectof the Haugians—Nomad life in the far Norwegian valleys—Trug—Memorialsof the Vikings—Female Bruin in a rage—Howbears dispose of intruders—Mercantile marine of Norway—TheBad-hus—How to cook brigands—Winter clothing | [pp. 101-124] |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| Peculiar livery—Bleke—A hint to Lord Breadalbane—Enormoustrout—Trap for timber logs—Exciting scene—MelancholyJacques in Norway—The new church of Sannes—A clergyman’smidsummer-day dream—Things in general at Froisnaes—Pleasingintelligence—Luxurious magpies—A church without a congregation—Thevalley of the shadow of death—Mouse Grange—Atradition of Findal—Fable and feeling—A Highland costume inNorway—Ancestral pride—Grand old names prevalent in Sætersdal—Ropesmade of the bark of the lime-tree—Carrawayshrub—Government schools of agriculture—A case for a Londonmagistrate—Trout fishing in the Högvand—Cribbed, cabined,and confined—A disappointment—The original outrigger—Thecat-lynx—A wealthy Norwegian farmer—Bear-talk—The consequenceof taking a drop too much—Story of a Thuss—Cattleconscious of the presence of the hill people—Fairy music | [pp. 125-148] |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| Langeid—Up the mountain—Vanity of vanity—Forest perfumes—Theglad thrill of adventure—An ancient beacon—Rough fellows—Daringpine-trees—Quaint old powder-horn—Curiosities for sale—Sketchof a group of giants—Information for Le Follet—Rathercool—Rural dainties and delights—The great miracle—An oddname—The wedding garment—Ivar Aasen—The study of words—Philologicallucubrations—A slagsmal—Nice subject for aspasmodic poet—Smoking rooms—The lady of the house—ASimon Svipu—A professional story-teller—Always about Yule-tide—Thesupernatural turns out to be very natural—Whathappened to an old woman—Killing the whirlwind—Hearing isbelieving—Mr. Parsonage corroborates Mr. Salomon—The greyhorse at Roysland—There can be no doubt about it—Theologicalargument between a fairy and a clergyman—Adam’s first wife,Lileth | [pp. 149-178] |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
| Scandinavian origin of old English and Border ballads—Nurseryrhymes—A sensible reason for saying “No”—Parish books—Osmund’snew boots—A St. Dunstan story—The short andsimple annals of a Norwegian pastor—Peasant talk—Riddles—Traditionalmelodies—A story for William Allingham’s muse—TheTuss people receive notice to quit—The copper horse—Heirlooms—Storiesin wood-carving—Morals and match-making | [pp. 179-199] |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
| Off again—Shakspeare and Scandinavian literature—A fat peasant’sbetter half—A story about Michaelmas geese—Explanation ofan old Norwegian almanack—A quest after the Fremmad man—Aglimpse of death—Gunvar’s snuff-box—More nursery rhymes—Ariddle of a silver ring—New discoveries of old parsimony—TheSpirit of the Woods—Falcons at home—The etiquette oftobacco-chewing—Lullabies—A frank invitation—The outlawpretty near the mark—Bjaräen—A valuable hint to travellers—Domesticetcetera—Early morning—Social magpies—An augury—Aneagle’s eyrie—Meg Merrilies—Wanted an hydraulic press—Agrumble at paving commissioners—A disappointment—An unpropitiousstation-master—Author keeps house in the wilderness—Practicaltheology—Story of a fox and a bear—Bridal-stones—TheVatnedal lake—Waiting for the ferry—An unmistakeable hint—Adilemma—New illustration of the wooden nutmeg truth—“Pollyput the kettle on”—A friendly remark to Mr. Caxton—Thereal fountain of youth—Insectivora—The maiden’s lament | [pp. 200-237] |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
| Ketil—A few sheep in the wilderness—Brown Ryper—TheNorwegian peasants bad naturalists—More bridal-stones—Theeffect of glacial action on rocks—“Catch hold of her tail”—Authormakes himself at home in a deserted châlet—A dangerousplayfellow—Suledal lake—Character of the inhabitantsof Sætersdal—The landlord’s daughter—Wooden spoons—Mountainpaths—A mournful cavalcade—Simple remedies—Landscapepainting—The post-road from Gugaard to Bustetun—Theclergyman of Roldal parish—Poor little Knut at home—Aset of bores—The pencil as a weapon of defence—Still, stillthey come—A short cut, with the usual result—Author falls intoa cavern—The vast white Folgefond—Mountain characteristics—Authorarrives at Seligenstad—A milkmaid’s lullaby—Sweethearts—Theauthor sees visions—The Hardanger Fjord—Somethinglike scenery | [pp. 238-259] |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
| Author visits a glacier—Meets with two compatriots—A good yearfor bears—The judgment of snow—Effects of parsley fern onhorses—The advantage of having a shadow—Old friends of thehill tribe—Skeggedals foss—Fairy strings—The ugliest dale inNorway—A photograph of omnipotence—The great Bondehusglacier—Record of the mysterious ice period—Guide stories—Arock on its travels | [pp. 260-272] |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
| Three generations—Dangers of the Folgo—Murray at fault—Authortakes boat for the entrance of the Bondehus Valley—Theking of the waterfall—More glacier paths—An extensiveice-house—These glorious palaces—How is the harvest?—Laxe-stie—Struggle-stone—ToVikör—Östudfoss, the most picturesquewaterfall in Norway—An eternal crystal palace—How to earn apot of gold—Information for the Morning Post—A parsonage onthe Hardanger—Steamers for the Fjords—Why living isbecoming dearer in Norway—A rebuke for the travellingEnglish—Sunday morning—Peasants at church—Female head-dresses—ANorwegian church service—Christening—Its adumbrationin heathen Norway—A sketch for Washington Irving | [pp. 273-292] |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
| Up Steindalen—Thorsten Thormundson—Very near—Author’sguide gives him a piece of agreeable information—Crooked paths—Raunebottom—A great ant-hill—Author turns rainbowmanufacturer—No one at home—The mill goblin helps authorout of a dilemma—A tiny Husman—The dangers attendingconfirmation in Norway—The leper hospital at Bergen—Amelancholy walk—Different forms of leprosy—The disease foundto be hereditary—Terrible instances of its effects—Ethnologicalparticulars respecting—The Bergen Museum—Delicate littlemonsters—Fairy pots—The best bookseller in Bergen—Characterof the Danish language—Instance of Norwegian good-nature—Newflames and old fiddles | [pp. 293-315] |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
| The safest day in the year for travelling—A collision—Lighthouseson the Norwegian coast—Olaf the Holy and the necromancers—Thecathedral at Stavanger—A Norwegian M.P.—Broadsheets—The great man unbends—Jaederen’s Rev—Oldfriends at Christiansand—Too fast—The Lammer’s schism—Itsbeneficial effects—Roman Catholic Propagandism—A thievisharchbishop—Historical memoranda at Frederickshal—The Fallsof the Glommen—A Department of Woods and Forests establishedin Norway—Conflagrations—A problem, and how it was solved—Authorsees a mirage—Homewards | [pp. 316-327] |