EXCURSION TO THE SCILLY ISLANDS.
Such travellers as may be desirous of making an excursion to these islands, will not only be much gratified by the voyage, but their health will be materially benefited by the congenial breezes of the ocean, and the mild temperature of the atmosphere, which is so peculiar to this part of the coast. The beauty also of the several marine prospects which such an excursion presents to notice, cannot fail to excite the most lively emotions: yet who can enjoy it, without reflecting on the many dreadful shipwrecks which have occurred off the Scilly Islands; especially the melancholy fate of Sir Cloudesly Shovel and his brave companions. Owing, however, to the erection of light-houses, and other salutary measures, such disasters have not been so frequent as formerly. The difficulty of navigating the passage round the Land’s End, is nevertheless very great, and, in many instances, attended with much danger.
The contiguity of these islands to the county of Cornwall, renders it necessary that some little notice of them should be given in the present work. From the Land’s End they are distant about nine leagues, and on a clear day are distinctly visible; but from Penzance, from whence the packet sails every Friday, the distance is fourteen leagues. With a fair wind the voyage is generally accomplished in six hours; but on some occasions has lasted two days.
According to the most eminent historians, these islands were originally denominated the Cassiterides, or Tin Isles, and their number not to have exceeded ten; but their original appearance has been greatly altered, either by the violence of the sea, or some other convulsive effort of nature. At present their number amounts to one hundred and forty, although the following only appear to be inhabited; viz. St. Mary’s, St. Agnes, St. Martin’s, Trescow, Bryher, and Sampson. The population of the whole of them, (more than half of which reside in St. Mary’s,) does not exceed 2000.
St. Mary’s is the largest and most cultivated, possessing three towns, a pier, a garrison, custom-house, &c. The length of this island is about two miles and a half; and its circumference is about 10 miles. The prospects from some of the hills are extremely fine; and from their rocky character and other local circumstances, present a very singular and interesting appearance. “The principal settlement is Heugh Town, so called from the neighbouring peninsula, on which, during the pilchard fishery, a man is stationed to watch the coming of the fish, and give notice of their approach by heughing to the boats below. On the summit of the peninsula is a small fort, erected in 1793, by Sir Francis Godolphin, and called Star Castle, from having eight points projecting like the rays of a star. In the centre is the governor’s house, having a foss between it and the outer rampart; where, at the salient angles, are four small apartments, designed for as many captains of the garrison. The lines are at some distance below the fort, nearly two miles in extent, and flanked by several strong batteries. Below them are the remains of an antient fort, that seems to have had a circular keep, like the castles of Trematon, Launceston, and Restormel. Nearer the water’s edge, on the western side of the peninsula, is the Heugh Town, which skirts the border of a sandy bay, with a good anchorage, and sufficiently spacious to contain 100 sail of shipping. The houses are chiefly low buildings, but were much improved under the late Earl of Godolphin, at whose expense the pier was erected about the year 1750. The other towns, which are called Old Town and Church Town, consist only of a few houses, and present little to excite curiosity.”[[53]]
At Porthelic Cove, on this island, the body of Sir Cloudesly Shovel was washed on shore, and not being recognized, was buried in the sands, but afterwards removed to Westminster Abbey, where there is a handsome monument to his memory. It is to be regretted, that although it was executed many years ago, when the art of sculpture had not arrived at much perfection, it has been so much defaced by idle and mischievous persons. When the fatal accident occurred, Sir Cloudesly was returning with his squadron from Toulon; and in a thick fog on the night of the 22nd October, 1707, his ship (the Association) struck on the Gilstone Rock, and sunk instantly, when every soul on board perished: the Eagle, Captain Hancock, experienced a similar fate, and the Romney and Fire-Brand were also lost, but their captains and 25 men were fortunately rescued from a watery grave.
The civil government of the Scilly Islands is chiefly managed by 12 of the most respectable inhabitants, who hold their meetings every month at Heugh Town, where they mostly settle differences or disputes by compromise: all criminal causes are referred to the military power.
St. Agnes contains upwards of 300 inhabitants, and is situated about a mile to the south-west of St. Mary’s. It is extremely pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated, but is chiefly remarkable for its beautiful light-house. This highly useful structure was completed about the year 1680, under the superintendance of Mr. Adam Walker, the celebrated lecturer on natural and experimental philosophy; it is upwards of 60 feet high, and is built on a very elevated spot. The light is produced by several parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and each having an Argand’s lamp in its focus, supplied with oil from behind. The frame in which the reflectors are disposed, stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a machine below, that turns the whole round every two minutes; by this motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon, and by its gradual intermission and increase, is readily distinguished from any other; its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined effects, its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once rendered completely sensible of his situation.[[54]] The charges attending the erection of this light-house, were defrayed by the Trinity House; but all vessels passing it pay the same rates as those received by the one on the Long Ships at the Land’s End, except coasting vessels, which pay only a shilling each. There is a small church on this island, the service of which is performed by a minister, appointed and paid by the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
St. Martin’s, which is situated about three miles eastward of St. Mary’s, appears from the remains of the numerous enclosures which intersect it in various places, to have been formerly well cultivated, and it would in all probability have been entirely deserted, had not Mr. Thomas Ekines, a respectable merchant of these islands, encouraged some people to settle here about a century ago. This gentleman likewise caused a tower and spire to be erected on it, as a land mark to seamen passing this part of the channel. The inhabitants chiefly consist of between 30 and 40 families, who are mostly related to each other, and much attached to the place. They have also a church, the service of which is performed by the minister appointed by the same Society, who also officiates at Trescow and Bryher. Borlase has noticed a druidical circle on this island; and from the several barrows which are also to be seen, concludes that not only this, but most of the other islands were in former ages very populous, and the lands much cultivated. “The barrows,”says that learned writer, “were all constructed in one manner; the outer ring is composed of large stones pitched on end, and the heap within consists of smaller stones, clay, and earth, mixed together: they have generally a cavity of stone work in the middle, covered with flat stones; but the barrows are of various dimensions; and the cavities, which, being low, and covered with rubble, are scarcely apparent in some, consist of such large materials in others, that they make the principal figure in the whole monument.” Although he had several of them opened, nothing of any consequence was discovered.
Trescow, which is situated two miles south-west of St. Mary’s, is only about half the size of that island; although Leland describes it as the largest of the whole cluster. It is, however, chiefly remarkable for having once possessed a monastery, some small remains of which are to be seen in a very beautiful situation, near the borders of a lake, separated from the sea by an ever-green bank. There are also the ruins of several other buildings; but those belonging to the Old Castle, which are situated on an eminence overlooking the harbour are most extensive. “Some other fortifications are called Oliver’s Castle, Battery, &c., in honor of Cromwell; though that called Oliver’s Castle seems to have been originally fortified many years prior to the civil wars; about the conclusion of which, these islands were seized for the king, by Sir John Grenville, who afterwards capitulated to Blake and Sir George Ascough.
This event was chiefly effected through the judicious disposition of the Parliament’s forces on this island, and on Bryher; which prevented supplies being carried to St. Mary’s, where the King’s forces were concentrated.”[[55]]
The number of inhabitants at Dolphin Town amounts to about fifty families, who live in about twenty small houses. Here is also a Church and some Tin Mines; the latter, although of little value, are said to be the only mines now to be seen on any of the islands. This circumstance is the more singular, as the Scilly Islands have long been noted for their numerous mines, and extensive trade with the Phenecians, &c. Much has been said by Borlase and other celebrated writers respecting the great change which the islands have undergone; not only in regard to antiquities, trade, extensive population, &c.; but that it must be evident to those who are acquainted with the situation, all the changes have arisen from the continual encroachments made by the sea, and violent tempests. The many shipwrecks which have also occurred, have in a great measure prevented many persons from entering into trade with them. It is the opinion also of a very eminent writer; that the islands are undoubtedly undergoing a gradual diminution; and that at no great distance of time, St. Mary’s will probably be divided by the sea, and a channel formed through the low land, between the new town and the south-east side of the garrison.
Bryher or Brehar, so called from its extreme mountainous position, is situated to the west of Trescow, and contains little to interest the tourist, except several barrows; the largest of which, situated on high ground, is 77 feet in diameter. Borlase says, “within this barrow are many kistvaens, as the Britons call stone cells; and many of the flat stones which covered them, lie here and there; some keeping their first station, and some being removed to make stands for shooting rabbits, with which this part of the hill abounds.” The number of families now resident in Brehar, do not exceed 20. At low water, the Sands between this island and that of Trescow, may be crossed by foot passengers.
Sampson Island is chiefly composed of two circular hills, connected by a low rocky precipice. The inhabitants are but trifling compared to the other islands, but it is noted by Borlase for containing several stone barrows, some rock basins, a kistraen, &c.
After the conquest of the Scilly Islands by King Athelstan, they were bestowed on several monks, and continued in their possession till the reign of Henry I., who granted “to Osbert, one of the Abbots of Tavistock,” all the churches of Scilly, with their appurtenances, and the land, as the monks or hermits held it in the time of Edward the Confessor, and Burgald, Bishop of Cornwall. “Prior to the reign of Edward I., they appear to have reverted to the crown, being then held by Ranulph de Blackminster, who paid annually, at Michaelmas, a rental of 300 puffins, or six shillings and eight pence.” In the reign of James I., they were leased to Sir Francis Godolphin, and are now held by the Duke of Leeds, on a lease for 31 years, granted in the year 1800, at an annual rent of £40, with the option of a renewal on paying a fine of £4000.
The climate of the Scilly Islands is reputed to be both milder, and more equable than that of Cornwall; but the storms which occur, are more sudden and violent. The natives are remarked for being a robust and hardy race of people; but as a late celebrated writer[[56]] observes, “were it not for the facility with which they obtain spirituous liquors, they would live to an advanced age.”
They are mostly employed in maritime pursuits, and in making kelp from the Algæ, which is disposed of to the Bristol merchants for the use of the glass manufactories. The same writer also justly observes; “from a combination, however, of unfortunate circumstances, in addition to the fatal blow given to the smuggling trade by the activity of the preventitive service, the inhabitants were reduced to such extreme distress, that it became necessary in the year 1819, to appeal to the generosity of the public in their behalf; and notwithstanding the great difficulties of the times, the sum of £9000 was collected for their relief: in this great work of charity it is but an act of justice to state, that the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, by their purse, as well as by their writings, performed a very essential service. The funds thus obtained, were in part appropriated to the relief of the immediate and pressing distress under which they laboured, while the remainder was very judiciously applied towards the promotion of such permanent advantages as might prevent the chance of its recurrence. A fish cellar was accordingly provided in the island of Trescow, for the purpose of storing and curing fish; boats adapted for the mackerel and pilchard fisheries were purchased, and others were repaired; nets and various kinds of tackling were also at the same time liberally supplied. By such means have the inhabitants of these cheerless rocks been enabled to avail themselves of some of the resources which Providence has placed within their reach, and their families have been thus enabled to exist without the dread of absolute starvation.”
Notwithstanding this relief, the fisheries of the Scilly Isles are capable of much extension, and although the expense incident to the necessary outfit would be considerable, yet the advantages to the inhabitants would be incalculable. The importance of this subject has been very ably brought to notice by the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary from the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, and Minister of St. Agnes and St. Martin’s, in his work on the State of the Scilly Islands, which was published in the year 1822.
Various species of fish are to be caught by the hook and line at these islands during the season, and which are salted by the inhabitants for winter consumption.
A very curious fact is also noticed respecting the arrival of the woodcock, in Scilly, that they are generally to be had there before any other place in England. Owing to the great distance they are supposed to have travelled, great numbers have been taken by the natives, from their becoming exhausted; instances have also occurred of their falling dead by striking against the light-house, the splendour of the lanthern no doubt having attracted them!
To the geologist, the Scilly Islands present but little to interest; at St. Mary’s are several beds of porphyry and clorite containing pyrites; the former are deserving of attention on account of their distinct appearance of stratification. The granite of the Lizard Point at the Island of Trescow, the felspar of which is of a pure white, might be advantageously employed in the China manufactories.