The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER I.

SIR,Berlin, June 6, 1729.

From Breslaw to Berlin 'tis 40 German Miles of very even Country, well peopled and cultivated. There are I know not how many little Towns in the Road, not worth mentioning.

The first Place of any Importance is Crossen. This City is the Capital of the Dutchy from whence it has its Name, which formerly made a Part of Silesia, but is now annex'd to the Electorate of Brandenburgh. There's a Bridge at Crossen, by which we pass the River Oder, defended by Fortifications. The Town is situate in a pleasant fruitful Country. The Houses, which are all of Brick, are uniform, and the Streets as strait as a Line. The chief of them

terminate in a great Square in the middle of the Town, where there is a Statue of the King of Prussia. The River Oder is of great advantage to the Commerce of Crossen, which carries on a considerable Trade in Linnen-Cloth and Earthen Ware.

Going out of Crossen, we pass this River by a Bridge, as we do a second time over to Francfort, a considerable City of the Marquisate of Brandenbourg, famous for its Fairs, and its University. This City has stood the Shock of various Revolutions. It was put under the Ban of the Empire by the Emperor Charles IV. for having disobey'd his Orders; and the Inhabitants to make him easy were forc'd to pay him down 12000 Marks of Silver, which at that time was an immense Sum. In 1631 the Swedes besieg'd and took it by Storm, when they put all the Inhabitants to the Sword in reprisal for the Massacre of 2000 Swedes, whom the Emperor's General Count Tilly had inhumanly put to death in the City of Brandenbourg. By the Peace of Munster, or Westphalia, which establish'd the Tranquility of the Empire, Francfort was restor'd to the Elector of Brandenbourg its lawful Sovereign.

Here is a University founded by Joachim I. (Margrave of Brandenbourg) in 1506, which is very much frequented by the Silesians, and by the Hungarian Protestants.

There are two Fairs a Year at Francfort, which render it a trading City, and its Commerce consists in Linnen-Cloth, and Fells.

'Tis ten Miles from Francfort to Berlin, and a flat sandy Country. The Road leads thro' Munchenbourg, a little Town chiefly inhabited by the Descendants of French Men, who left their Country upon the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes.

The nearer one comes to the Capital of Brandenbourg, the more sandy is the Soil, yet the Country produces plenty of Corn and Fruits.

Berlin is the common Residence of the King of Prussia, and one of the largest, best built, and best govern'd Cities in all Germany. The Streets are spacious, strait, neat and well pav'd. The Situation is advantageous; for tho' it lies in a very sandy Soil, yet it is encompass'd with agreeable Gardens producing Fruits and excellent Pulse, and its Commerce is much improv'd by the River Spree; which passes thro' the City, and has a Communication with the Havel, the Oder, and the Elbe.

The French, who for the sake of Religion became Refugees, have contributed in an extraordinary manner to the Establishment and Aggrandisement of Berlin, by the establishing of all sorts of Manufactures, and the introducing of Arts into it; and it may be said of them, that they have omitted nothing to testify their Gratitude to the Elector Frederic-William and his Posterity, for the generous Reception which he gave them in his Dominions.

Berlin is divided into five Wards exclusive of the Suburbs, which are very extensive. I will run thro' these Wards in the Order of their Situation: But before I do this, I propose to shew you what is most remarkable in the Suburbs; where the Houses are generally of Timber, but so well plaister'd that they seem to be of Stone; and the Streets are broad, lightsome and strait.

In the Suburb of Spandau the Queen has a delightful House and Gardens. The House is called Monbijou; a very proper Name for it, because 'tis really a Jewel. 'Tis a Pavilion, the Apartments of which are laid out with Art, and furnish'd with great Judgment and Elegance. The Gardens are charming, and lie finely open to the River. This House was built by the Countess de Wartemberg, Wife to the Prime Minister of King Frederic I. As her Husband's Power and Favour were at that time so great, that he did whatever he pleas'd, all the

King's Workmen and Architects us'd the utmost Diligence to serve her well. But she did not enjoy this fine House long; for it was scarce compleated when the King removed the Count from all his Employments, and banish'd him to Francfort on the Maine. However, he settled a Pension upon him and his Lady of 24000 Crowns, and the Countess by way of Acknowledgement gave the King this House, which of all the immense Treasure that she had amass'd, was the only Piece that she cou'd not carry with her. The King gave this House to the Princess Royal now Queen, who has added great Embellishments to it, and brought it to its present State of Perfection.

In the Suburbs of Stralau is the House and Gardens of Belvedere, belonging to the King. Rollé Superintendant of the Finances to the Elector Frederic-William, caus'd this Garden to be made, in which he laid out considerable Sums; and as this Minister was at other very great Expences, it so impair'd his Fortune, that he was oblig'd to throw up all and retir'd to Holland; and being very much in debt to the Elector, his Garden was forfeited to that Prince, who made a Present of it to M. de Fuchs, one of his Ministers. King Frederic I. purchas'd it of the latter, and after having embellished it, made a Present of it to the Queen his third Wife; but that Princess's ill state of Health obliging her to retire to Mecklenbourg her Native Country, Belvedere became neglected.

Near this Royal House is the magnificent Gardens of Craut, who from a Boy behind the Counter rais'd himself by his Industry to the Post of Pay-master General of the Army, and at length to that of Minister of State. He was to have been call'd to account in his last stage of Life, but he cunningly diverted that Storm by feigning himself Lunatic; and dying, he left an immense Estate, part of which

fell to the King by way of Restitution, and the rest to his Nephew, who makes a grand Figure at Paris.

I enter'd Berlin thro' that call'd the Gate Royale, which has had that Name ever since the Day that Frederic I. made his Entry there, after his Coronation at Koningsberg in Prussia. This Gate is defended by a Half-Moon, and two Bastions fac'd with Brick, and fronts that call'd the Street Royale; one of the longest and most frequented in all the City. There are very fine Houses in it, particularly that of M. de Catsch, a Minister of State, that of Grumkau, and the Post-House, which last Building was begun by order of the late King, for his Favourite the Count de Wartemberg, who was hereditary Post-Master.

Thro' the Street Royale there run fine, spacious and beautiful Streets. The first is call'd la Rue du Cloitre, in which we see the Royal Manufactory. Frederic I. who bought it of the Heirs of the Marshal de Flemming, established an Academy of Nobles there; so that, on the Payment of three hundred Crowns, they had Lodging, Provision, and Instruction in every thing that it's natural a Man of Quality shou'd know. This Establishment existed a few Years, but sunk at last meerly thro' the Neglect of Persons whose Business 'twas to take care of it. The present King has chang'd this Fabrick into a Work-house, and allowed Lodgings in it for several Woollen Manufacturers.

Adjoining to the Royal Manufactory, there are public Warehouses, which were established and built by the late King; and being destroyed by Fire, the present King caus'd them to be rebuilt. Opposite to the Warehouses stands the House of M. de Creutz, Minister of State; which has fine Apartments, and is very neatly furnish'd. Higher in the same Street there's the House of M. Duvaine,

a French Man by Birth, and Lieutenant-General of his Prussian Majesty's Forces: And contiguous to his House, which makes a fine Appearance, is the Calvinists new Church, a Structure rais'd after the Model of Grunberg, an Architect who had before acquir'd a Reputation, which did not suffer by his Contrivance of this great Fabrick: The Front of it is magnificent, but the inside plain, as are all the Churches of the Calvinists, which you know don't admit of Images. The subterranean Places or Catacombs, for interring those that worship here, are worth seeing. Several Persons have been interr'd there of great Note, particularly Casimir de Colbe, Count de Wartemberg, Prime Minister, Great Chamberlain, Master of the Horse, Post-Master-General, Protector of all the Academies in the Dominions of the King of Prussia, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle. Being banish'd in 1711, to Francfort upon the Maine, where he died the Year following, he ordered that his Corpse shou'd be carry'd to Berlin; and his Will was accordingly fulfill'd. He was so dear to King Frederic I. that he was very loth to part with him; but was, as it were, compell'd to it by a Cabal, who oppos'd his Ministerial Authority; tho' he was provok'd at the Insolence of Wartemberg's Wife, and at his mean Submission to her. The King made an Offer to him afterwards, by the Count Christophle de Dohna, (who was then his Ambassador at Francfort, for the Election of the Emperor,) to come and resume his Employments, on condition that he wou'd not bring his Wife with him; but Wartemberg refus'd, saying, he was engag'd in honour not to forsake her. Perhaps he was very glad of this Excuse for not returning, because he had once experienc'd the Vicissitude of Fortune, and knew well that he had been too powerful a Man not to be hated. King Frederic I. who was desirous

to see his Funeral pass by, cou'd not refrain Tears; which undoubtedly was the greatest Character that he cou'd give of his Minister.

Next to the Count de Wartemberg's Tomb, is that of Henrietta de Pollnitz, Wife to Francis Count de Duhamel, the Venetians Generalissimo. Her Husband dying in the Morea, this Lady return'd to Venice, proposing to go and end her Days at Berlin, where she was born; but while she was performing her Quarantain she died, after desiring her Body to be carry'd to Berlin; which was accordingly done by two of her Nephews, and one of her Nieces, whom she made her Heirs. There is also the Tomb of the Count de Denhoff, Lieutenant-General of the King's Armies, Knight of his Order of the Black Eagle, Minister of State, Governour of Memel, and Ambassador at the Treaty of Utrecht, where he acquired a high Reputation among the foreign Ministers. The Marshal de Villars, who had known him at Vienna, when he the Marshal resided there in the quality of Minister, to take care of the Affairs of France, said to me one day, speaking of the Count de Denhoff, that the King of Prussia cou'd not do enough to reward the Count's great Merit. If he wou'd have been rul'd by me, added he, he wou'd have been in the Service of the King my Master.

The second Street that crosses the Street Royale, is the Jews Street, which runs into the Square Molcke-Marck; where the Hotel de Schwerin makes a fine Appearance. Within a few Houses lower down, there's a Manufactory of Gold and Silver Lace, which one Schindler has established with good success: This House belong'd to the Wife of M. de Wensen, Marshal of the Court to King Frederic I. but she resign'd it as part of Payment of a Fine, to which her Husband had been condemn'd by the Count de Wartemberg, then prime Minister;

who confin'd M. Wensen in Custrin Castle, because he had presum'd to represent to the King that the Table of the prime Minister, which was served by his Majesty's Cooks and Butlers, was more expensive than his Majesty's own Table. Wensen however, upon the Payment of this Fine, obtain'd his Liberty, and was banish'd to his Lands in the Dutchy of Zell.

In the middle of Molcke-Marck is the Statue of Frederic I. Father to the present King, with a Crown on his Head, and a royal Mantle on his Shoulders. The Statue was cast by order of Frederic I. himself, who intended to have it plac'd in the Court of the Arsenal; but dying before it cou'd be brought about, the King his Son caus'd it to be set up where it now stands, which is indeed a much better Place for it.

The Spandau Street, which is the third that crosses the Street Royale, contains the Town-House, and other fine Buildings: The Street St. Esprit is altogether as beautiful, as is the Kay, which fronts the Castle or Palace of the King. Upon this Kay we see the House of the Baron de Vernesobre, whose Ancestors being French Protestant Merchants, settled at Koningsberg in Prussia. He was in France at the time of the Mississippy Plague, which, tho' so fatal to others, prov'd so fortunate to him, that he gain'd several Millions of Livres, with which he came and set up at Berlin, where he has taken to building, having purchas'd the Estate of Hohensihn from Monsieur de Borstel, one of the best Gentlemen of the Country, procur'd himself the Title of Counsellor of State, and cuts a Figure now among Persons of Quality.

The Churches of St. Mary, St. Nicholas, and that belonging to the Garrison, are as magnificent as any of the Protestant Churches. St. Mary's has a beautiful Spire. When Frederic I. made his royal Entry here, at his return from his Coronation, a Man ascended to the Globe of this Spire, and saluted

the new King by flourishing a pair of Colours. The Church of the Garrison was founded by the late King, but was very much damag'd some Years ago by the blowing up of a Magazine of Gun-Powder in the Neighbourhood, just as they were removing it to a safer Place. King Frederic William has caus'd it to be rebuilt with more Magnificence than before. The Organs are very fine, and the Galleries very well contriv'd.

That Ward of Berlin which I have now run through, is separated from that of Coln or Cologne by the River Spree, over which there are four Bridges, whereof there is one of Stone, call'd the Pont-neuf. Frederic I. in imitation of the Pont-neuf at Paris, famous for the Statue of Henry IV. caused the Equestrian Statue of his Father, the Elector Frederic-William, to be erected upon this Bridge, with very great Pomp and Splendor; for no Prince in Germany strove more than he did to copy Lewis XIV. in Magnificence and every thing else. When this Statue was dedicated, the Count de Lottum, who was then Grand Marshal of the Court, accompanied by most of the Courtiers on horseback, and by the City Companies, assisted at the Ceremony, which was performed with an Apparatus, till then unknown in Germany upon the like Occasions; but had been practised at Paris, when the Statue of Lewis le Grand was erected in that City.

This entire Monument was design'd by one Jacobi, who after several Years Labour and constant Application to it, has brought it to its present State. This skilful Operator has represented the Elector in a Roman Dress, and in an heroic Stature; that is to say, above the natural Size. The Statue is placed on a magnificent Pedestal of white Marble. At the four Corners of the Base, are placed as many Slaves in Brass, who seem as if they were chain'd to it.

When one has pass'd the Bridge, the King's Palace offers itself to view; a great and stately Fabric, which Frederic I. began in the Year 1699, and a worthy Monument of that Prince's Magnificence, who was of Opinion, that of all the Sums expended by Sovereigns, those which they lay out in Buildings are least liable to Censure. And indeed Magnificence is well bestowed, and even Profusion seems justifiable in Architecture, because grand Edifices are the principal Ornament of any State.

The Palace has been the Workmanship of several Architects; the Name of the first was Schluter, but he not giving Satisfaction was dismiss'd, and went into the Service of the Czar Peter Alexiowitz. Whatever he did is extremely incumber'd with Ornaments which have not a due Proportion. His Successor was Eosander, a Swede, who is a Lieutenant-General in the Service of the King of Poland: He was oblig'd in some measure to pursue what Schluter had begun; so that if he has not come off well every where, he has at least that for his Excuse. The third was Bot, a Frenchman, and now General Officer in Poland; who without dispute was a much better Artist than the others. Every thing that he has done is more simple, yet more grand, noble, and complete.

These three Architects having gone upon different Plans, you will easily imagine that the Fronts are not perfectly regular; yet for all this, had the Palace been finish'd according to the Models approv'd of by the late King, it wou'd have been inferior to no Edifice for Grandeur and Magnificence, except the Louvre of Paris. King Frederic-William does not think fit to carry on this Building, but leaves that Honour to his Son, the Prince Royal.

As to giving you all the Particulars of this vast Palace, you will be so good as to excuse me: Be

satisfied if I only tell you, that it consists of four Stories: The Apartments are large, have fine Cielings, and are royally furnish'd. In no part of the World did I ever see such a prodigious quantity of Plate, Tables, Stands, Lustres, Chandeliers, Screens, Looking-Glass Frames, Couches, Arm-Chairs, all of Silver. The late King left Plate to the value of two Millions eight hundred thousand Crowns, not reckoning the Fashion. In that call'd the Knights Hall, there's a Beaufet which takes up one intire side of the Room, where there are Cisterns and Basons Silver gilt, of an extraordinary Size.

The Furniture of the grand Apartment is very rich; there's a fine Gallery adorn'd with Pictures, the Cieling of which was painted by one Peine, a Frenchman, who in divers Compartments has skilfully represented the principal Actions of King Frederic I. At the End of this Gallery there's a Saloon, which was formerly magnificent to the last degree, being wainscotted, if I may so call it, with Amber: But the late Czar coming on Berlin in his return from Holland and France, and not a little admiring this Furniture, which was the only thing of its kind, the King made him a Present of it: so that what had been amass'd with great Care and Cost by several Electors, fell in one Day into the hands of a Nation, which, no longer ago than the beginning of the present Century, was reckon'd Barbarian.

The Palace had fine Gardens belonging to it before they were destroy'd, and converted into a Place of Arms, and a Parade for the Guards.

Hard by the Palace are the King's Stables, a very grand Building, facing the great Street. The Architecture without is Gothic, but the inside is more magnificent; the Stables are broad and spacious,

very lofty, and very lightsome: the Mangers are of Stone, and the Pillars which mark the Stands for the Horses, are of Iron, and adorn'd with the King's Cypher, gilt: Over the Mangers are several great Pictures of the finest Horses that ever came out of his Majesty's Studs. The Backside of the Stables projects towards the River Spree, to which they can lead the Horses by a Stair-Case without Steps, built in the form of a Horse-Shoe.

The Main Body of the House contains grand Lodgings for the Master of the Horse, and the Officers under him. Over the Stables are great Rooms where they keep a deal of fine Furniture, both for the Horse and Mule; magnificent Sleds, with convenient Harness, adorn'd with Bells of Silver, or Silver gilt; a great number of fine Arms; the rich Accoutrements of the Horse which serv'd Frederic I. on the Day of his public Entry; all the Ornaments of the Bridle, the Breast-Leather, and Crupper, as well as the Bits and Stirrups, being of Gold adorn'd with Brilliants.

Over the Riding-House is the great Theatre, where, in the late King's time, Interludes and Comedies us'd to be acted before the whole Court; but the Opera of Roxana and Alexander was the last that was acted on it. It was play'd in 1708, upon the Marriage of King Frederic I. with Sophia of Mecklemberg. In 1706, an Interlude was acted there, on account of the Arrival of the Princess Royal, now Queen; intitled, Beauty triumphing over Heroes; at which the Markgraves Frederic-Albert and Christian-Lewis, the late King's Brothers, danc'd, with all the young Courtiers.

As we go farther down the great Street, we come to the Fish-Market, where is the Hotel of the City of Cologne, and Dorffling's Hotel occupied by the Count de Finck. This Family is oblig'd for its Rise to the Marshal Dorffling, who from an Apprentice

to a Taylor rais'd himself by his Valour and Merit to the highest Posts in the Army. The Story goes, that when he had serv'd his Apprenticeship at Tangermunde, having a mind to go to Berlin, he came to a part of the Country where he cou'd not proceed without crossing the Elbe, but not having wherewithal to pay his Passage, the Ferry-Men refus'd to carry him over; which so vex'd him, that he threw his Knapsack into the River in a Pet, curs'd the Trade of a Taylor, and went back to Tangermunde, where he listed himself a Soldier. There being a War at that time all over Germany, it was no difficult matter for the young Warrior to find an Opportunity to shew his Courage; and he signaliz'd it in such a manner, that his Officers, who were all in love with him, strove to advance him, and therefore made him known to the Elector Frederic-William. This Prince who lov'd, rewarded, and was a good Judge of Valour, did not depend upon what Fame reported of him; but in order to see his Officers and Soldiers fight with his own Eyes, conducted them himself to the Enemy, and very soon took notice of Dorffling. He saw him at every part of the Field where there was Honour to be won: He saw he was a sensible industrious Fellow, that he hated Parties and Cabals, and that he had that Germanic Probity which was the distinguish'd Virtue of our Forefathers, but which we now content ourselves with admiring. The Elector observing such a Stock of Virtue in Dorffling, thought him deserving of his Favour, advanc'd him to the tip-top Employments, and made him very rich. Envy, which is as old as the World itself, and which like that, never stands still, made several of the Courtiers jealous of the Fortune or rather the Merit of Dorffling, and there were some who did not stick to say, that if the Marshal came to be ever so great a Nobleman, he wou'd always retain the Air of a Taylor. This

being carry'd to Dorffling, True enough, said he, I was a Taylor, and I have cut out Cloth; but now, said he, clapping his Hand to the Hilt of his Sword, I have an Instrument in my Hand, with which I'll cut off the Ears of any Man that slanders me.

This brave Fellow liv'd to a great Age, and left a Son who was one of the King of Prussia's Lieutenant-Generals, and Colonel of a Regiment of Dragoons, but died without Issue. He had not quite the Vivacity of his Father, but he had his Honour and Integrity.

Going out of the Fish-market, as we turn to the right, one perceives the Lutheran Church of St. Peter[2], which is a considerable Structure; and then we come into that call'd the Fryars Street, the Houses of which are all well built. In this Street stands the Palace where the Aulic Council meets, which in France they call the Parlement; 'tis here that all Civil Causes are try'd, and from thence there lies an Appeal to the King's Council.

Beyond the Palace there is a Square, on the Right side of which there's a Church with a Cupola which belongs to the Calvinists, and is look'd upon as the Cathedral of Berlin: For you know that the late King made two Bishops, one in Prussia and the other at Berlin, and they were the Prelates that crown'd him. They are since dead, and the present King lets their Sees lie vacant. In this Church is the Tomb of the Royal Family. There's a great Row of Buildings over against it, which consists of several uniform Houses belonging to Merchants,

and supported by stately Arches with Shops under them, where are sold all sorts of Goods. Turning round by that Piazza, brings one to a second Branch of the River, which divides the Ward of Coln from that of Werder. This River, which has three wooden Bridges over it, is confin'd in a Canal lin'd with Freestone, and form'd by two fine Kays.

The most considerable Edifices in the Ward of Werder are the Royal Custom-House, so commodiously situate that Boats can come up close to it: The French School, and their Church, which is serv'd by able Ministers; some of whom, as the late M. Lenfant (Author of the celebrated History of the Council of Constance, &c. and Chaplain to the King of Prussia) M. de Beausobre and M. Jacquelot, &c. have acquir'd a Reputation in the Republic of Letters. The Royal Hunting-House is a large magnificent Structure for lodging the great Huntsman and all his inferior Officers: There too is the great Dog-Kennel and the Magazines for all the Hunting Equipage. Near this place is the Hotel or Palace for Ambassadors, where are likewise entertain'd such Foreign Princes as are not of a Rank high enough to be accommodated in the King's Palace. This Hotel belong'd formerly to the Baron de Danckelman, Prime Minister to King Frederic when he was only Elector, and being built by the said Minister at a time when he was such a Favourite that he did almost what he pleas'd, he spar'd no Cost to render it a Mansion worthy of his high Station. I was assur'd by Persons of Credit then alive, that after it was built, the late King had a Desire to see it, upon which occasion M. de Danckelman made a great Entertainment for him; and that while the Queen and the whole Court were dancing, the King retir'd into his Minister's Closet, to have a private Conference with him; and looking very earnestly on a certain Picture

there, M. de Danckelman told him, that Picture and all that he saw would soon be his Majesty's. The King not knowing what he meant, desir'd his Minister to explain himself; whereupon he made answer, 'That he shou'd very shortly incur his Displeasure; that his Fall wou'd be attended by the Forfeiture of all his Estate; that he should be arrested and committed to the Spandau Prison; and that there he should be confin'd ten Years, at the Expiration of which his Innocence wou'd be made to appear, his Estate wou'd be restor'd to him, and he shou'd be taken again into his Majesty's Favour.' The King, who was at that time very fond of his Minister, and did not think he cou'd ever do without him, ridicul'd what he had said as the Surmise of a Visionary, and was going to swear by the New Testament then upon a Table in the Room, that this sad Prophecy wou'd never come to pass. But the Minister held his Hand, and begg'd him not to take an Oath which it wou'd not be in his power to keep.

I tell you this Story just as I had it from a Lady of Quality to whom the King himself told it: But in short, let the Story be as it will, 'tis very certain that M. de Danckelman was disgrac'd, committed Prisoner to Spandau, and from thence remov'd to Peitz, without any Companion but his Wife, who generously desir'd to suffer Imprisonment with him. His Confinement lasted much longer than he had prophesy'd, and when at length he obtained his Release, he was not restor'd to his Employments, nor even to his Estate. 'Tis said indeed that the present King, who on his Accession to the Crown sent for M. de Danckelman to Berlin, offer'd him the Ministry; but that the Baron excus'd himself by reason of his great Age and his tedious Imprisonment, which had made him lose the Connection of Public Affairs. This Minister died

lately, having lived to the Age of fourscore. His remarkable Disgrace, and fifteen Years Confinement in a Prison, had not sunk his Spirits, nor shock'd his Constancy of Mind; and one shall scarce meet with an Instance in History, either before or since, of more Merit and more Misfortune in one and the same Person. He was a passionate Admirer of Learned Men, and a Rewarder of Virtue. In a word, by the Disgrace of this Great Man, the State lost a faithful disinterested Minister, and Men of Learning lost a Mecænas, full of Zeal and solid Knowledge, who never fail'd to support by his own Authority, and to procure a Reward from his Master, for all Persons that apply'd to him with any Proposal that was useful and uncommon.

To go from the Ambassadors Hotel to the New Town, one must pass before the House belonging to the Governour of Berlin[3], who is at present the Marshal Count de Wartensleben; a Nobleman whose Virtues, long Services, and great Age, challenge Veneration. The House he lives in was built by order of the Elector Frederic-William, for the Reception of the Marshal de Schomberg, who resign'd the Battoon of the Marshal of France to Lewis XIV. after that Prince had revok'd the Edict of Nantes, and came with a numerous Retinue of Gentlemen, to desire Employment under the Elector. Accordingly that Prince gave him the Command of his Troops, but the Marshal quitted that Employment, to accompany the Prince of Orange to England, in his famous Expedition against his Father-in-Law; and he likewise attended that Prince to Ireland, where he acquir'd great Glory, but was kill'd in passing the River Boyne.

The Governour's House is separated by a great Square from the Arsenal, which is one of the compleatest Fabrics in Europe, and was built according to a Model design'd by Bot, whom I mention'd to you before; which skilful Architect has, upon this occasion, equalled any thing that was ever done by the famous Bernin.

The intire Structure consists of four main Bodies of Building, which form a spacious Quadrangle in the middle. The lower Story is of Rustic Architecture, with arch'd Windows. There are three great Porticoes at the Entrance to each Front. Over the principal Gate there's the Picture of the late King, in a great Medal of Brass. The four Cardinal Virtues of a Gigantic Size, are plac'd on Pedestals by the Portico, and seem to look towards the King's Effigies, which is supported by Fame and Victory. The Corinthian Order prevails throughout the first Story, and is very artfully executed. A Gallery or Ballustrade runs round the whole Edifice, and is adorn'd with Trophies and Statues, particularly a very perfect one of Mars, sitting upon a Heap of Arms of different sorts; and the Decoration of all together is noble and majestic. Studs of Iron in form of Cannon are plac'd at proper Distances, and support Iron Chains, hung in Festoons, which hinder People from clambering up to the Windows.

The Inside of this Arsenal is as magnificent as the Outside. The lower Rooms are stor'd with a great number of Brass Cannon. The Walls and Pillars that support the Arch are garnish'd with Cuirasses and Helmets. In the upper Story there are several Rooms full of Arms, rang'd in such Order as can never be enough admir'd.

Behind the Arsenal there's the House of the General of the Ordnance, which also contains the Foundery, where Men are continually at work.

Besides this Arsenal, there are several others in Berlin, where they keep Field-Pieces, Iron Cannon,

and all that belongs to the Train of Artillery. 'Twas the late Margrave Philip[4], Brother to Frederic I. who when he was Great Master of the Ordnance began to put the King's Arsenals into a good State. But King Frederic-William has finish'd what his said Uncle began, and has put the Artillery on such a footing, that 'tis a question if any Arsenal in Europe is on a better Regulation.

A Rampart and a Ditch separate the Werder from the Dorothy-Stadt, or new Town, which is for most part inhabited by French Families. It had the Name of Dorothy-Stadt in honour of the Electress Dorothy of Holstein-Glucksburg, the second Wife of Frederic-William, who with her own Hand planted the first Lime-Tree of the seven great Rows which divide this Ward into two Parts. The middlemost Row, which is the widest, is inclos'd with Ballustrades, and forms a pleasant Grass-Walk for Foot-Passengers. The Walks on each side are pav'd, and serve as a Ring for the Coaches. Nothing is more beneficial and agreeable than taking the Air in this Place, where you may have any thing that can be desir'd in a City. At the end of one of these Walks is a Gate which opens to the Park, the Walks of which being above a League in length, form a fine Point of View.

On both sides the Lime-Tree Rows, are Houses, among which the Palace of Madame the Margravine, Dowager[5] to the Margrave Philip, Brother to the late King, is one of the best. The late Margrave

purchas'd this Palace (which at that time was inconsiderable) of the Wife of Weiller Colonel of the Artillery, who had thrown up his Employments, Wife, Children and all, to go with a Lady of Quality, that was in love with him, to Vienna. This Gentlewoman pass'd for a modern Sappho, and every body talk'd of her Virtue and good Sense. But being a Slave to the Follies of Love, and asham'd to let them be seen at Berlin, where she was counted an Oracle, she resolv'd to quit the Place of her Birth, and engag'd her Lover to leave all and follow her.

The Margrave made considerable Augmentations to this House, and render'd it very commodious. The Furniture of the Palace also is rich, and worthy of the Princess who resides in it.

Opposite to the Margravine's Palace is a Building which was formerly call'd the King's Little Stables, but has been metamorphos'd into Caserns for the Gendarmery; they discover the Magnificence of Frederic I. who caused them to be built. The Apartments that run over the Stables are occupied by the Academy of Painters, and that of Arts and Sciences. Behind the Stables there's the Observatory, with a great number of Astronomical and Mathematical Instruments, of which there are many of a new Invention.

Frederic-Stadt, which is the fifth Ward of Berlin, communicates with the New Town and the Werder. This is one of the pleasantest Wards in the whole City, the Streets being spacious, strait, and planted with Lime-Trees[6].

Perhaps I have dwelt too long upon the Metropolis of the Electorate of Brandenburgh; but I thought that as there had been no true Account yet given of this City, you wou'd not be sorry to have it from me.

The next day after my Arrival here, I had the Honour to see the King, who was then seeing his Soldiers mount guard. He is a Prince of a middling Stature, and in very good Plight of Body: His Air commands Respect; yet, when he pleases, no Prince in the World can be more gracious. I heard him speak to his Officers in such a kind manner as cou'd not but charm them; I admir'd his Genius for military Discipline, and perceiv'd that with the Glance of an Eye he cou'd discover the least Fault committed against that wonderful Exactness which is introduc'd in the Evolutions of his Troops. After the Guards had perform'd their Exercise, the King stay'd to see them file off. I never yet saw Troops march with more Order and State, so that it seem'd as if they were all mov'd by one Spring. All the Soldiers are young, of an even Stature, and the cleverest Fellows that Nature ever form'd: they are well cloth'd, and have such an Air of Neatness, that even the private Centinels might all pass for Officers. I remember you was prejudic'd against their Clothing; their Clothes you said were too strait, and too short. I was of your Opinion once, and think so still, when I happen to see one of their Officers and Soldiers singly among us, who wear Night-Gowns rather than Coats; but when I see a whole Body of Prussians together, I am of another Opinion, and think their Dress gives them a warlike Air which other Troops have not. You will tell me perhaps, that the Clothing of the Prussians is good in a Garrison, but that in the Field their Garments are

not wide enough to cover the Soldiers in the Night. I answer, that the Prussian Soldiers are in no danger of not being cover'd, because when they are in the Field, every Captain is to carry as many Coverlids, as there are Comrades in his Company. But you'll say, this must be a very great Incumbrance, and take up a deal of Equipage. 'Tis true, it may require two Sumpter Horses in a Company, but a Soldier fares the better for it; because when he goes wet into the Camp, he can get his Clothes dry'd in the Night while he is under his Coverlid. After all, the Incumbrance is no greater at present, for those Troops, than it was at the time when all the Prussian Infantry had Cloaks, which the Soldiers wore, was the Weather ever so hot, folded over their Shoulders, and ty'd both before and behind by their Belt. If they had any hasty March to make, such as I saw they made in Flanders in 1708, when they went to attack the French near Audenarde, the Prussians left their Cloaks behind with a Guard, and when the Battle was join'd, the Captains were oblig'd to send for their Cloaks. In short, what makes me think the Prussian Clothing the most convenient for a Soldier, is, that most of the German Princes are now come into it, and like it well: The Troops of Saxony, and Brunswic in particular, are cloth'd like those of Prussia.

The Prussian Troops, which are new cloth'd every Year, have Breeches of Woollen Cloth for the Winter, and of Linnen for the Summer; and they are allow'd Shirts, Necks and Spatterdashes: Their Pay is good and regular; the Soldier is compell'd to do his Duty, but when he does it, enjoys more Liberty than in the Service of any other Nation: so that were I to carry a Musket, I fancy it wou'd be in the Service of Prussia, where such a strict Discipline is observ'd, that the Soldier is no Swearer, and is not allow'd to game, and where in a word he does not

abandon himself to Licentiousness. On Sundays and Saints Days they are requir'd to go twice a day to hear a Sermon: The Catholicks have the liberty of going to Mass. In short, good Manners are introduc'd and observ'd in those Troops to such a Nicety, that you would wonder at it.

All the Infantry is cloth'd in blue. It depends on the Colonel of every Regiment, to order what Waistcoats and Trimming he pleases for the Clothes. The Horse and Dragoons wear white, but the Houshold Troops blue, with Campaign Coats of Gold Lace. The Hussars Clothing is red, but the Garbs of the Officers both of Foot and Horse are plain, and only differ from the Apparel of the Soldiers in the fineness of the Cloth; tho' there are some Regiments whose Waistcoats are bedaub'd all over with Gold or Silver Lace.

The Colours, which are uniform in all the Regiments, are white, with the King's Device, representing an Eagle flying towards the Sun with this Motto, Nec Soli cedit. There's such a Uniformity preserv'd in all things throughout the Army, even in their Guns, Swords, Bayonets, &c. that in every Regiment they wear the very same, even to their Shoe-Buckles.

The same Regularity is observ'd in the Horse and Dragoons, which ride both upon black Horses; and indeed they are not permitted to have any others, the Officers themselves being not exempt from this Rule, when they are at the head of their Squadrons or Companies. The Housings and Equipage of the latter are of the same Pattern, and extremely rich. All the Horse wear Buff-Coats, and underneath Cuirasses. They perform their Exercise on Foot like the Infantry, and with the same Exactness. The Kettle-Drums and Trumpets of all the Horse are of Silver.

There is not a Captain in all the Prussian Army but has at least ten supernumerary Men; so

that these included, the King's Forces amount to near 100000, all pick'd Men. You cou'd not but admire if you were to see how they behave; insomuch that whenever they take the Field, 'tis pity but Fortune shou'd favour them.

Not many Days after my Arrival here, the King being gone to visit his Kingdom, I had the Honour of waiting on the Queen. This Princess, whose Name is Sophia-Dorothea, is Sister to the present King of Great Britain, being the Daughter of George I. the late King, and of Sophia-Dorothea Princess of Brunswic-Zell. And she does every thing that is worthy of her August Extraction; for surely never did Daughter more resemble a Father; she has the same Benignity and Wisdom, the same Equity and Justice, and Sweetness of Temper. Like him she knows the Charms of a private Life, and Friendship, on a Throne: Like him she is ador'd by her Subjects and her Domestics, and is the chief Blessing and Darling of both. To extend Goodness and Affability farther, were impossible; there being no Foreigners but what are charm'd with the gracious Manner in which this Princess receives them. To a thousand Virtues worthy of Veneration, she has added the singular Talent of speaking the Language of several Countries which she never saw, with as much Delicacy as if they had been her Mother Tongues. The French Language especially, is so familiar to her, that one wou'd take her to be a Princess of the Royal Family of France; and the Grandeur and Majesty that accompany all her Actions, induce those even who don't know her, to be of Opinion that she was born to reign.

That which still more endears this Queen to her People, is the Care she takes of the Education of her Family; which consists of four Princes, and six Princesses. The eldest of the Sons is stil'd the

Prince Royal[7]. This young Prince is handsome, charms every one by his Kindness and Good-Nature; and loves Reading, Musick, the Arts, and Magnificence: His Sentiments, his Behaviour, and his Actions, make it probable, that if he comes to the Crown, his Reign will be one of those mild and peaceable Reigns, which procure Kings that Love of their People, wherein consists their true Glory. The Care of the Prince Royal's Education was committed first of all to Madam de Camke, one of the Queen's Ladies of Honour, and Governess of the Children of Prussia. But this Lady left the Charge of the latter to the Sub-Governess, Madam de Rocoule, and her Daughter Madamoiselle de Montbail. Madam de Rocoule had also the honour to be Sub-Governess to the King; so that she was no Novice in the forming of young Princes. As she talks nothing but French, she has taught it to the King's Children; who speak it with as much ease as they do the German Language. At seven Years of Age the Prince Royal was taken out of the Hands of the Women; and the Count de Finck of Finckenstein, Lieutenant-General of the King's Forces, a Knight of his Order, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse, was appointed his Royal Highness's Governour; and the Baron de Kalestein was made Sub-Governour. The King's Choice of both these Gentlemen was universally applauded.

The eldest of the King's Children is Frederica-Sophia-Wilhelmina, the Princess Royal; who was born in 1709. I was at Berlin at the Ceremony of her Baptism, which was performed in the Chapel of the Castle, in presence of Frederic IV. King of

Denmark, Frederic-Augustus King of Poland, and Frederic I. King of Prussia. The Birth of this Princess, and the Circumstances of three Kings and a Queen attending at her Baptism, gave occasion to a great many Copies of Verses. All the Poets said that the Presence of these three Kings, was a Sign that she wou'd one day have Possession of three Crowns. They had then in view the Crowns of Great Britain, that were to devolve to the Family of Hanover; in which there was a young Prince[8], who, it was then imagin'd, was to be in time the Husband of this Princess. Whether this Match will ever take place, and whether the Princess will be Queen, I can't say; but if she is not, Fortune will not do Justice to her Merit.

The Princess Frederica-Louisa, the King's second Daughter, is lately married to the Margrave of Brandenburgh Anspach. 'Tis said that his Majesty's third Daughter, the Princess Philippina-Charlotte, is promised to[9]Charles, hereditary Prince of Brunswic-Bevern, Nephew to the Empress Regent.

The other Princes and Princesses, the King's Children[10], are as yet too young to furnish any Particulars for their Character. In a word, put them all together, they form a very fine Family.

The Margravine, Dowager of the Margrave

Philip, Brother to the late King, is the first in Rank at Court, next to the King's Children: She was born Princess of Anhalt-Dessau. Her Royal Highness was lately chose Abbess of Herford, a sovereign Abby in Westphalia, (in a Town belonging to the King of Prussia, as part of the Principality of Ravensberg;) whose Canonesses must be all Princesses, or Countesses of the Empire. This Princess, tho' she is past her Bloom, is still the Ornament of the Court; and no Person can be more civil than she is to Foreigners; so that 'tis as much a Pleasure as a Duty to pay one's Court to her. When the King is at Berlin, and the Queen has no Drawing-Room, the whole Court repairs to the Margravine's House, where her Royal Highness daily keeps an elegant Table; to which she admits the Quality of both Sexes. She is the Mother of two Princes and a Princess; the Sons are the Margraves Frederic and Henry, and the Daughter is married to the hereditary Prince of Wirtemberg. The young Margrave Frederic resides at Schwedt upon the Oder, where he has a very fine House; but does not come to Court but when he can't avoid it. The young Margrave Henry resides commonly at Berlin. Both these Princes are handsome, lusty, and well shap'd.

The Margrave Albert, the King's Uncle[11], lives in his Majesty's Palace, tho' he is eight Months of the Year at Frederichsfelde, a Pleasure-House about a League from Berlin. He is the second Son of the Elector Frederic-William, and Dorothy of Holstein

Glucksburg: He is well shap'd, has a noble Air, and has been in his time a very good Dancer: He is fond of Grandeur and Pleasures. At the beginning of the last War he distinguished himself very much at the Siege of Keyserswaert, and other Places, where he commanded the Troops of the King his Brother. His Royal Highness is Governor of Pomerania, Knight of the Black Eagle, and Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and of another of Horse, in the King's Service: He has also a Regiment of Foot in the Service of the United Provinces; and is Grand Master of the six Commanderies of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, who, at the Alteration of Religion in the time of Luther, withdrew from the Grand Master of Malta, and assum'd to themselves a Right of chusing a Grand Master under the Protection of the Elector of Brandenburgh. The Margrave marry'd a Princess of Courland, Heiress to the Freeholds of her Uncle Duke Ferdinand, the last of her Family. This Princess, tho' not reckon'd a Beauty of the first Rate, has a great Share of Charms and Good-nature, Modesty and Politeness. Their Royal Highnesses are perfectly civil to those who have Access to them; which is the reason, that notwithstanding the little Concern they have in Business, they have always a numerous Court. They have three Princes, and two Princesses. The eldest of the Sons is Charles, a Prince whose Person and Character are very amiable. The eldest of the Daughters is married to the Duke of Saxe-Eysenach.

The last Prince of the Royal Family, is the Margrave Christian-Lewis, third Son of the Elector Frederic-William by the second Marriage. This Prince is Governour of the City and County of Halberstadt; he has a Regiment of Foot, is Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle, and Commander of that of St. John. He studied at Leyden; after which, he

serv'd with distinction in Italy. He now lives retir'd from Court at Malchau, a House about a Mile from Berlin, which the late King bought of the Heirs of M. de Fuchs, his Minister of State. There the Margrave, who has a Relish for the Pleasures of private Life, passes his Time in Hunting, Reading, and every innocent Pleasure that an agreeable Country is capable of furnishing. This Prince has been a handsome well-made Man; he has a grand Air, and there's something heroic in his Physiognomy: In the very Flower of his Youth he was a constant Admirer of Virtue, and might ever be quoted for an Example of Sobriety. He is so exceeding fat, that it's fear'd he won't live to be a very old Man[12].

All the Princes of the Royal Family wear the Prussian Order, viz. that of the Black Eagle; and receive it as soon as they are born. 'Tis an Orange Ribband, to which is appendant a Cross enamel'd with blue, resembling the Cross of Malta. A Star of Silver is embroider'd on the Coat; and in the middle of it is an Orange Escutcheon, over which is a black Eagle crown'd with Wings display'd, holding in one of its Talons a Crown of Laurel, and in the other a Thunder-bolt, with the Motto, Suum cuique, in Letters of Gold. This Order was instituted by Frederic I. the sixth of January 1701, O. S. on account of his Coronation at Koningsberg. He call'd it the Order of the Black Eagle, because a Black Eagle forms the Arms of Prussia; and he chose an Orange Ribband, in memory of the Electress his Mother, who was a Princess of Orange; in Right of whom he pretends to be next Heir to William III. King of England, and Prince of Orange.

The Princes of the Royal Family are not exempt from passing thro' the Degrees of military Service; and 'tis not here as in other places, where they have Regiments and Governments as soon as they are born. The King will have them to know how to obey, before they come to command; and 'tis an Encouragement to the Officers to find themselves so far honour'd, as to be on a Par in the Service, with those who are born to be their Sovereigns. The Prince Royal has a Regiment of Horse[13]. M. de Lopel[14], a Major-General, commanded that Regiment formerly, but the King preferring him to the Government of Custrin, this Regiment has for Colonel M. de Wreech, a Person of a good Family in the new Marquisate. His Father, who was one of the King's Lieutenant-Generals, had serv'd the late Elector Frederic-William, the late King, and his present Majesty. M. de Wreech, whom I am speaking of, was, at his return from his Travels, appointed by the late King a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber: After that Prince's Death, his present Majesty enter'd him into his Service, and gave him a Troop of Horse. This Gentleman distinguished himself greatly in 1708, at the Battle of Audenarde; where he was Aid de Camp to the Marshal de Natzmer, then General of the Cavalry: He had a Horse kill'd under him, and was taken Prisoner; but the Enemy in their Flight not watching him very strictly, he found means to get off when the Night came and put an end to the Battle. He lay hid in a Ditch till next day, in danger every moment of being knock'd on the head by our own Men; but when the Day broke, he rejoin'd his General, who had received a

slight Wound in the Head. M. de Wreech is one of the richest Subjects the King has; but he is worthy of his Fortune, and uses it like a Man of Quality. He is certainly a valuable Gentleman, has a noble Soul, and Sense and Knowledge enough to capacitate him to serve his King and Country both in Peace and War.

Berlin is not a City where you ought to look for the most lively Diversions; the King, to whose Will every body conforms, not being fond of them himself. Yet when once a Man is known there, he will find Amusement enough; for the People are affable and civil, make plentiful Entertainments, and have very good Wine.

When the King is absent, the Queen has a Drawing-Room every Night, from seven o'clock till ten; when her Majesty sups with the Princes and Princesses of her Family, and other Persons of Distinction of both Sexes. But when the King is at Berlin, the Queen keeps no Drawing-Room, unless some Foreign Prince happen to be there. Then there are Assemblies in the City alternatively, among Persons of the first Rank, at which they sometimes dance; and the King and Prince Royal frequently honour these Assemblies with their Presence. When there is no grand Assembly, there are particular Societies, where they sup, and play at small Game.

The Ministers of most consequence at this Court are Messieurs d'Ilgen, Grumkau, and Kniphausen[15]; these are they who treat of Foreign Affairs, and thro' whose hands pass the Secrets of State: but the King's Prime Minister is the King himself, who is inform'd of every thing, and is desirous to know every thing. He gives great Application to Business, but does it with extraordinary Ease; and nothing

escapes his Penetration, nor his Memory, which is a very happy one. No body knows better than he where his Government is strong, and where 'tis weak; and no Sovereign in the World is of more easy Access, his Subjects being actually permitted to write to him, without any other Formality than superscribing the Letter, To the King. By writing underneath, To be deliver'd into his Majesty's own Hands, one may be sure that the King receives and reads it, and that the next Post he will answer it, either with his own Hand or by his Secretary: these Answers are short, but peremptory, and they prevent a tedious painful Attendance. The King, who is an Enemy to vain Pomp and Pageantry, always goes abroad without any Guards, with only a small Retinue, and sometimes too walks on foot; he makes his Greatness to consist in solid Power, in the having his Troops well disciplin'd, his Places kept up in good Order, his Arsenals well provided, and his Treasury full enough to enable him to oppose his Enemy in case he be attack'd. He never aims so much as to disturb his Neighbours, much less to rob them: I heard him say one day, that he had no Intention of attacking any body, nor of beginning a War; but if he was attack'd, he would defend himself the best he could: a Conduct which he has religiously observed ever since he has been plac'd upon the Throne, even towards Charles XII. King of Sweden, notwithstanding what is said of him by a certain Author, who from sorry Memoirs has wrote that Prince's Life. But I will not deviate from my Subject.

There's no Town in all the King of Prussia's Dominions, except Neufchâtel, where he has not been; no Province which he does not know full well; not a noble Family but he can tell their Revenues; nor a Court of Justice but he is well acquainted with their chief Members. His Behaviour is plain; he

knows no Gallantry, and does not easily pardon it in his Officers. He is so true to his Consort the Queen, that he wishes all Men would follow his Example, and that every Husband would live only with the Woman whom God has allotted him. His Diversion is Hunting; and for this reason, he resides commonly at Potzdam or Wusterhausen, which are Pleasure-Houses four Miles from Berlin. Yet he generally goes on Saturdays into his Capital, where he holds a Council on Sunday, and returns on Monday. In the Winter he makes a longer stay at Berlin: but let him be either here or there, he is on the Parade every Day at ten o'clock, when his Soldiers mount the Guard; after which he gives Audience to his Ministers, and holds a Council, or goes abroad for the Air. At Noon the King appears in a great Saloon, where are all the Generals and Officers, the Foreign Ministers, and all the Court in general: There he converses a few Moments, and then goes into another Room, where he dines with the Queen, the Princes and Princesses of his Family, and any other Persons whom he has caused to be invited. His Table is commonly spread for eighteen Guests. After he has sate about an Hour and half at Table, he retires to his Closet till six at Night, when he appears again in the Room where he held his Levee: There his Majesty gives Orders to the Marshal Wartensleben Governor of Berlin, and to the Marshal Natzmer Commandant of the Gendarmery. After this, he talks a while with those that are present, and then passes into a Room at some distance from his Apartment, to which the Queen repairs sometimes with one or two Ladies in company. There are ten or a dozen Officers whom the King honours with his Confidence, who play here at Picquet, Ombre, and Backgammon. Here they also smoak, and to this Place the King sends for such as he has a mind to

talk with about special Affairs. I have been there twice upon such an account. Here there is no manner of Restraint, but every body sits down, the King dispensing with all the Respect that is due to him, and at eleven o'clock he dismisses the Company and retires.

The King hunts when he is at Potzdam and Wusterhausen; but in other respects he leads the same Life there as he does at Berlin. At Potzdam he hunts the Stag, having for that end caused a great Forest to be paled in, where he has made noble Roads.

The Castle at Potzdam, which is very convenient, was built by the Elector Frederic-William, who commonly resided at it; and after having run his glorious Race, died here the 29th of April, 1688. King Frederic I. made considerable Embellishments to it, particularly the great Gate opening into the main Court of the Castle, which is an admirable Piece of Architecture that was design'd by M. Bot, my Hero for Buildings. But all that the late King did, does not come up to the Works that have been added to it of late Years. The Town of Potzdam has been augmented two Thirds; the Streets are as strait as a Line, with Trees planted, and Canals cut in them after the manner of Holland; the Houses are uniform and built with Bricks. Besides a great Hospital, which the King has founded here for his Soldiers' Orphans, here is a considerable Fabric for Armourers, who make all those Arms for the Forces and Arsenals, which were formerly made at Liege.

This Town is the Garrison for the first Battalion of those Tall Grenadiers, so much talk'd of in Europe. I protest to you that they exceed the common Report, being the compleatest, the finest, and best-disciplin'd Body that can be imagin'd. The Men are of all Nations, there being scarce a Prince in Europe but takes a pleasure in sending Recruits

to it. Some of these Grenadiers have had 1500 Crowns List-Money; and several receive two Florins per diem: Some of them are very rich; others there are who trade, and have good Houses at Potzdam. The tallest and the best Man among them all was one call'd Jonas, (lately dead) who work'd heretofore in the Mines of Norway. The famous Huguetan, whom Frederic IV. King of Denmark created Count de Guldenstein, took him from the Mines, and presented him to the King. He then stoop'd in the Shoulders, and hobbled in walking; but by tricking him up, they gave him that good Air which he wanted.

'Tis certain, there are no Troops in the World where the Peasant sooner shakes off the clownish Air, and more easily assumes the military one. This gigantic Regiment has requir'd great Pains, and considerable Sums to establish it; and I am assured it has cost the King more than six other Regiments. But 'tis all his Majesty takes delight in; and surely this Prince cannot but be commended for giving into a Pleasure so noble, and so innocent.

Having given you some Account of Potzdam, I must also mention Charlottenbourg, another Royal House, a Mile from Berlin. This Castle stands on the Spree, so that one may go to it by Water: but the common Way is thro' the Park which is at the end of the great Walk from the new Town.

In the late King's time, whenever he was at Charlottenbourg, all the Road from Berlin to this Palace was lighted by Lanthorns erected on both sides.

Charlottenbourg was formerly call'd Lutzenbourg. It was a small Village belonging to M. Doberginsky, Steward of the Houshold to the Queen, (the King's Mother.) He had built a trifling House there, and that Queen taking the Air there one day, lik'd the Situation of the Place so well, that she bought it, and set about building there; but she died before all the

Works she had undertaken were finished. However, her Husband King Frederic I. caused them to be carried on, and made considerable Additions to them; and in order to perpetuate the Queen's Name, which was Sophia-Charlotte, he caused Lutzenbourg to be called Charlottenbourg. This Castle is one of the most considerable Structures in Germany; the Apartments are grand and splendid, and the Furniture very rich. There's a Cabinet adorn'd with the choicest Porcellane, ranged in such order as is surprising: In another Cabinet there are Lustres, a Tea-Table with Dishes, a Coffee-Pot, and the whole Equipage in short of solid Gold. The Chapel is one of the most superb that can be; every side being adorn'd with Gold and Painting. The Orangery is one of the most magnificent in Europe; not only with regard to the Beauty and Number of its Trees, but the Greatness of the Building in which they are kept all the Winter.

I could tell you of several more Houses which the late King had in the Neighbourhood of Berlin; but as they were suffer'd to run to ruin after he died, I think I had better entertain you with the Characters of the prime Nobility at this Court.

The Count de Wartensleben is the oldest Marshal. He is by Birth a Westphalian, and pass'd his early days in the Service of France. He was Commander in chief of the Troops of the Duke of Saxe-Gotha, when King Frederic I. called him to his Service. The Count de Wartemberg, who was at that time the Chief Minister, wanted a Person to be at the head of the Troops, who should be intirely devoted to himself: This was an Obedience he did not expect to find in the Counts de Lottum, Dhona, and Denhoff, nor in the other Generals whose long Services and Birth might make them aspire to this military Dignity. He believed the fittest Person to be his Tool would be a Foreigner that should be

oblig'd to him for his Fortune: Therefore he caus'd the Marshal's Batoon to be given to the Count de Wartensleben, who answer'd to a tittle the Intention of the Minister his Benefactor. 'Tis true, that he never seconded his Revenge, but neither did he oppose it. He did the Business of his Office, and meddled not with the Intrigues of the Court. It may be said of him, that he never deviated from the Path of Equity, and in Justice to him it must be own'd that he always did good, when it was in his power. Since the Death of the late King, his Authority and Interest are very much lessened. Besides, he is too far advanc'd in years to concern himself with almost any Business at all.

The General whose Power is most rever'd, is the Prince Leopold of Anhalt-Dessau. In consideration of his high Birth, and the Rank of Sovereign which he holds in the Empire, I ought to have nam'd him first; only the Count de Wartensleben is the oldest Marshal.

The Prince of Anhalt is Marshal, Governour of the City of Magdebourg, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Order of the Black Eagle. This Prince, who is a Person of a good Stature and noble Presence, happy Features and a lively Aspect, was born with all the Qualifications of a General and a Soldier, being vigilant, laborious, indefatigable, equally patient of Heat and Cold, Want and Abundance; Brave even to Intrepidity, and possibly never equalled in this respect, unless we except Charles XII. King of Sweden: Being a Man of unexampled Rigour in Military Discipline, he will be obey'd; but then he rewards his Soldiers when they do their Duty, and sometimes makes himself familiar with them: A warm and constant Friend, but an implacable Enemy when he thinks himself not well us'd; haughty to his Equals, civil and courteous to his Inferiors. In his Youth, he was a Wine-Bibber, and a Deboshee;

but it has been observ'd, that neither Wine nor Women can detain him, when he is in the pursuit of Glory. He is a religious Observer of his Promises, and never makes any but after mature Reflection. He is an Enemy to the Pomp and Constraint of the Lives of Great Men; an Œconomist, perhaps more than becomes his Dignity; and is an absolute Master in his Family and his Government, having poor, but dutiful Subjects, and well-regulated Finances.

The Care of the Prince of Anhalt's Education was committed to M. de Chalisac, a Native of Guienne. This Gentleman found an ungovernable Temper in the young Prince which he had much ado to manage. The Prince happen'd very early to have a liking for Madamoiselle de Fohsen, (whom he afterwards marry'd) which being not at all pleasing to his Mother, (who was born Princess of Orange) she thought the best way to cure him of his Fondness for her, would be to send him abroad; and therefore appointed M. de Chalisac to travel with him to Italy, and accordingly they made that Tour.

Chalisac, who was my particular Friend, and whose Memory I honour, told me that this Prince's extraordinary Vivacity and Intemperance, had often made his Heart ake; but that whenever he happen'd to run astray, he was sure to reclaim him by setting the Motives of Honour and Ambition in his View. To this purpose he related what happen'd when they were at Venice, viz. that the Prince came home one Morning very much in Liquor, after having spent the whole Night in a Debauch; and M. de Chalisac reproving him, perhaps a little too sharply, as the young Prince thought, he ran and snatch'd up a Pistol, and returning with it to his Governour, said, You Dog, I must kill you. M. de Chalisac, without appearing

surpriz'd, looking sternly at the Prince, made him answer; Shoot me if you think fit; but think how worthy a Figure you'll make in History, when it shall be recorded that a Prince of Anhalt, a Prince of a Family that has given Emperors to Germany, murder'd his Tutor. These Words spoke with an Air of Authority made such an Impression on the young Prince, that he laid down his Pistol saying, You are indeed in the right; I should have committed a villainous Action.

The Prince on his Return from Italy to Dessau shew'd that Time and Absence had not that Effect upon him as they generally have upon Lovers. He returned as much in love with Madamoiselle de Fohsen as he was at setting out. He married her in 1698, and soon after, viz. in 1701, she was by the Emperor acknowledged a Princess of the Empire. He has had five Sons and two Daughters by her, the eldest of whom is dead.

But the Embraces of a tender Spouse cou'd not keep him at home; a Warrior he was born, and a Warrior he would be. The War being then kindled between the Emperor and the French, the Prince went to serve in the Army on the Rhine, and was present at the taking of Keiserswaert. Soon after, King Frederic I. gave him the Command of 6000 Men, whom he sent to the Emperor's Assistance in Italy, where he signaliz'd himself in every Campaign, but especially at the raising of the Siege of Turin. The Duke of Savoy, afterwards King of Sardinia, with whom the Prince had not a very good Understanding, doing me the Honour to talk to me about him one day, said, The Prince of Anhalt has too much Fire; but when he is ripen'd by Age, he will be a great General. He was born with the Genius of a Captain, and he has contributed to save my Crown.

When a Neutrality was agreed on for Italy between the Emperor, his Allies, and France, the Prince of Anhalt was recall'd, and the King gave him the Command of his Troops in Flanders, where he maintain'd the Reputation which he had acquir'd in Italy, and was continued in his Command till the Peace of Utrecht.

The Obstinacy of Charles XII. King of Sweden in refusing to hearken to a Treaty for the Sequestration of Stetin, having oblig'd the King of Prussia to make war upon him, the Prince of Anhalt serving under the King, who then commanded his Army in Person, had the Honour to defend the Isle of Rugen, against the King of Sweden, who came in the Night and attack'd it with Fury; but the Swedes were repulsed, after having lost a number of considerable Officers in the Action. Since the Treaty with Sweden, this Prince has had no occasion to signalize his Valour. He resides commonly at Dessau, or at Magdebourg; and does not come to Court but when Affairs call him. He has three Sons in the King's Service, of whom the two eldest have Regiments of their own, and the third commands his Father's.

The King, who has a great Affection for the Prince of Anhalt, makes no considerable Regulation with regard to his Troops, or in any thing relating to the War-Office, without his Advice. His Majesty has given him considerable Tracts of Land in Prussia, where 'tis said the Prince is building not only Villages, but entire Towns.

M. d'Arnheim is the third Marshal. This old Gentleman, who is past fourscore, learnt the Art of War under two Great Masters, the Elector Frederic-William of Brandenbourg, and Montecuculi the Rival of Turenne.

The Marshal de Natzmer is an old Soldier also, who has serv'd under several Commanders with very great

Distinction; particularly the Prince of Waldeck, General of the Dutch Forces, the Prince of Orange afterwards King of England, and lastly under the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene of Savoy; who had all an Esteem for his Valour and Military Experience; this Marshal having been in all the Battles which those Generals fought in the Netherlands, and having been always wounded or had a Horse shot under him.

After having mentioned the chief Commanders of the King's Forces to you, I think it incumbent on me to give you an Account of those Persons whose Credit or Employments have the greatest Influence upon the Government; in which you will please to excuse me, if I do not follow that Order I have hitherto observ'd in my Narrative.

The Baron d'Ilgen First Minister of State, was born of an obscure Family in Westphalia. After he had finished his Studies, he commenc'd Secretary to M. de Meinders, Minister of State to the Elector Frederic-William, and to King Frederic I. His Discretion and his Industry soon procur'd him the Favour of his Master, who put him Governour over his Nephew the Baron de Heidekam. M. d'Ilgen travell'd with the young Baron to Holland, England, and France, in which Tour they spent two Years. At his Return to Berlin, M. de Meinders enter'd him in Business, and the Elector Frederic-William dying not long after, he procur'd him the Office of Secretary to the new Elector. In this Employment he behav'd with such Circumspection that he is still continued in it, notwithstanding the many Changes that have happen'd in the Ministry. The Baron de Fuchs one of the most able Ministers that ever Germany produc'd, being charm'd with his Genius, gave him such a Recommendation to the late King, that he preferr'd him to a Seat in the Council, where Ilgen soon found out the way to make himself necessary. The

Count de Wartemberg, whose Abilities were not so great but he stood in need of a Second, being then at the Head of the Council, consulted in all matters with M. d'Ilgen, who, after the Count de Wartemberg retired, had the Province of Foreign Affairs committed to him solely, and has kept it ever since.

M. d'Ilgen has both Gaiety and Solidity in his Temper, a lively, fruitful Imagination, and most pleasing Aspect. He is extremely sober, and an excellent Œconomist, being as great an Enemy to Pleasure, as he is a Friend to Riches. He is humble sometimes, even to excess; revengeful, crafty; a Master of his Temper, his Countenance, his Tongue, and his Eyes, which he accommodates altogether to the Situation of his Affairs. As by his Parts he raised himself, so by his Parts he supports himself. He is the sole Repositary of his own Secrets, having no Confident nor Favourite to share them. He is so indefatigable, that he composes and writes all himself, keeping his Secretaries only to copy. In short, he works like a Day-labourer, and makes the Ministry, as it were, a Handicraft. He speaks well, but writes better; he affects double Entendres in his Answers, and artfully has recourse, when he needs it, to an ambiguous Expression. He has so little scruple, in point of Oaths, that he takes and breaks them with equal Indifference. He never made himself a Creature, but always removed and humbled those that ever gave him any Umbrage. That which heightens his Character, and proves his Genius, is, that he has supported himself a long time, without Kindred, Friends, or Creatures, and perhaps without being too much honoured by the Favour of his Master[16].

M. de Grumkau Minister of State, Lieutenant-General of the King's Forces, Colonel of a Regiment of Foot, and Knight of the Orders of St. Andrew of Muscovy, and of the White Eagle of Poland, is descended of an illustrious Family in Pomerania. His Father was Grand Marshal of the Elector Frederic-William, and died in that Post, at the beginning of the late King's Reign. M. de Grumkau being left a Minor, was sent very young to France, to learn his Exercises, where he acquitted himself with Diligence, and the Approbation of his Superiors. At his return to Berlin, Frederic I. appointed him Gentleman of his Bed-chamber, and gave him a Company of Foot. Soon after which, he married Madamoiselle de la Chevallerie, who was Maid of Honour to the Queen Sophia-Charlotte. It was not long before he was advanced; and during the last War he served as a Brigadier in the Army in the Netherlands. At the same time he had the Care of the King's Affairs with my Lord Duke of Marlborough, and Prince Eugene of Savoy. His manner of

Behaviour shew'd that he was fit to be employ'd in great Affairs: but the Count Wartemberg, the Favourite, and Prime Minister, being jealous of his Genius, kept him as much as he could out of any Share in Authority, and chose rather to prefer him by War, than to employ him in the Ministry. The Favourites (Messieurs de Camke) who succeeded Wartemberg, perceiving M. de Grumkau's superior Abilities, were not more favourable to him than the Count was. He was preferr'd to be a Major-General at one of the last Promotions that was made by the late King; and Frederic-William, on his Accession to the Throne, made him Lieutenant-General, and Minister of State.

M. de Grumkau is good-natur'd, civil, and affable. He has the Manners and Sentiments of a Man of Quality, as he really is; he is generous, liberal, loves Splendor and Pleasures, but is not so much addicted to them as to neglect the Affairs of the Ministry. He is laborious, has a clear and quick Apprehension; a pleasant, lively, and penetrating Fancy; and is no Enemy to Satyr, when it does not attack his Neighbour's Reputation. As he is of a beneficent Temper, he has Friends, and makes himself Creatures. Of all the Ministers, he speaks to the King with the greatest Freedom; and I believe one may safely venture to put him in the Rank of Favourites.

The Baron de Kniphausen[17], Minister of State, and Commander of the Order of St. John, is descended of an illustrious Family in East-Friesland. In the late King's time, his Father was President of the Chamber, which is properly, Superintendant of the Finances. No Minister has been employed in more Embassies. He was the King's Resident in Spain, with Charles III. the present Emperor; he

was the same in Denmark, Muscovy, and France; and every where supported the Dignity of his Master, and the Honour of his Character. So many Embassies had very much disconcerted his Affairs; and talking to me one day at Paris about his Lady, who was the Daughter of M. d'Ilgen, 'I know, said he, that her Rank is not equal to mine, and that I may be reproach'd for having married her; but I can return the same Answer which they report of the Count de Lude (Governor to Gaston of France, Lewis XIIIth's Brother) who, when he was ruin'd like me, married a Tradesman's Daughter; Could I do better, said he, when I was persecuted Day and Night by my Creditors, than to take Refuge in a Shop, rather than be carried to an Alms-House?'

M. de Kniphausen has a wonderful natural Genius, and would have every Talent requisite for a Minister, if he was not quite so averse to Labour; but being as lazy as his Father-in-Law is laborious, Affairs suffer in his hands by delay. Not but that he knows how to dispatch them, if he will, for nobody is more lively nor more vigilant than he, when he sets his heart upon a thing; but he is naturally indolent, being fond of his Ease and good Cheer.

The Baron de Gohren, who is Director of the Chamber of Finances, and of the Post-Office, is a Man of a good Family in the Marquisate of Brandenburg. He has not been many years in the Ministry, but has the Reputation of an upright Man, and one not to be corrupted. He is very reserved, and a Person of few Words, which gives him an Air that those who are not conversant with him mistake for Haughtiness.

M. de Creutz has a happy Physiognomy, being a mixture of hard Features with mild ones, that carry an Air of Probity and Frankness, which of all external Appearances is undoubtedly the most

advantageous. He is polite, and magnificent; has an extraordinary Vivacity, an admirable Facility of expressing himself, and an easy, affable, and genteel Behaviour. He never promises but when he means to perform, and his Word may be safely depended on. I always found him very sincere, and I cannot help saying, I love him. Frederic-William called him to his Councils, he having been his Secretary when he was Prince Royal. His Assiduity and Punctuality in performing the Duties of his Office, had procured him the King's Affection to such a degree that his Majesty continues to honour him with his Good-will, and gives heed to his Representations[18].

M. de Creutz is one of the richest Subjects in the Country, having had a very great Estate by his Wife: She has also brought him a Daughter, an only Child, who is said to have a great deal of Wit; and being a rich Heiress into the bargain, she will not fail of Suitors.

M. de Vierec is a Man of Quality, and a Native of Mecklemburg; his Father was Counsellor of State to the late King, and his Envoy Extraordinary in Denmark. The Son, of whom I am now writing, quitted the Service of Duke Anthony-Ulric of Brunswic-Wolfembuttle, to be a Gentleman of the late King's Bed-chamber. When he came to Court, he had no Relations there, but he was so happy as to raise himself Friends; for his modest Air, and his polite and submissive Deportment, gain'd him the Good-will of the Favourites; and as he lov'd Play, he soon made himself acquainted with the

Court-Ladies, who always gave him their good Word.

In 1711, when the Count de Dohna went as the King's Ambassador to Francfort, for the Election of an Emperor, he desir'd of the King that M. de Vierec, who was reckon'd the most sober young Man at Court, might be Marshal of the Embassy, which was perform'd at the King's Expence. M. de Vierec acquitted himself so well in that Employment, that he had the same Post at the Congress of Utrecht. He had afterwards, for a while, the Care of the King's Affairs at the Court of France, when the Duke of Orleans was Regent; and at his Return from thence, he was employed in the Regency of Cleves; from whence he was called home to better Preferment, by means of Gerstorf, whose Daughter he had married. For this General's only Son being killed in Sicily, his Majesty, in order to comfort the Father, whom he lov'd, and who he saw took it very much to heart, declared M. de Vierec his Son-in-Law, Minister of State. M. de Gerstorf's Daughter dying afterwards, M. de Vierec thereby came possessed of a very great Estate, and married again to the Daughter of the Count de Finck, who was formerly the Prince Royal's Governor.

M. de Vierec is perfectly polite, and altogether as modest now as he was before he was a Minister; but he is close and reserv'd, mysterious more than needs must, and jealous. His Circumspection, which extends to the minutest things, gave him the Air of a Minister, before he had a thought, perhaps, of ever being one. What with his Kindred, his Estate, and his Preferment, he is become powerful at Court.

These, Sir, are the Persons of the greatest Consequence at the Court of Prussia, with whom I had a particular Acquaintance. I am not so vain as to think I have painted them in their true Colours;

but such as they appear'd to be in my eyes, I have represented them to you. Men are not always the same; nor do they appear in the same light to all that see them; every Man having his own way of thinking, and few judging solidly.

I have now told you all the Particulars that I know of this Court. What remains for me is to mention some things to you, which are worth your seeing, if ever you live to come hither.

Such are the King's Cabinets of Medals and Antiquities; that of Natural Curiosities, in which are a great many things not to be seen elsewhere; the Chymical Laboratory, with its Furnaces and Instruments of a new Invention; the magnificent Theatre, which the King caused to be built for Anatomical Demonstrations, with all the Curiosities and Instruments which are there kept; the Royal Library, one of the most valuable and compleat in all Germany, where, besides scarce Books and Manuscripts, is a very curious Chinese Printing-Press.

All these things would be worth particularizing; but to do this, a Man must have a larger Acquaintance here than I pretend to: Besides, my Relation is already spun to such a length that I believe 'tis time to conclude it.

I will, however, just acquaint you of a Foundation by the present King, in favour of the young Gentlemen of his Dominions, which are the Academies of Cadets, in Berlin, Magdebourg, and other Towns, where they are taught the Rudiments of War; so that 'tis a Nursery from whence the King makes a Draught of good Officers. His Majesty has moreover ordered his Generals of Foot to take each a young Gentleman, whose Fortune does not happen to be equal to his Birth, to keep them as Pages, and to make them learn their Exercises, and every thing that an Officer ought to

know. An excellent Institution this, and a fine Resource for the poor Nobility!

I am preparing to set out forthwith for Hamburgh, Hanover, and the Court of Brunswic; and after I have made that Tour, you shall have a second Letter from me. Mean time, I am, &c.

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