LETTER IV.
SIR,Blanckenbourg, July 30, 1729.
I was six Hours travelling from Hanover to Brunswic, the Capital of the Dutchy of that Name, which is a very great City, with Houses for the most part of Timber. It was formerly a Free and Imperial City, and one of the Hanse-Towns; but falling under the Sovereignty of the Princes of the House of Brunswic, they reduced it to a level with the other Towns of their Dominions. It belongs to the Duke of Brunswic-Lunenbourg Wolfembuttle. The Duke Anthony-Ulric began to fortify it; and his Son Augustus-William, the present Duke[36], perfected
what remained unfinished at his Father's Death, and made Brunswic a Place which cannot be besieged without a numerous Army: But then on the other hand, it would require such an Army to garison it as the Duke could not furnish without the help of his Neighbours, and which besides, wou'd not perhaps be extraordinary convenient for him to introduce. The said Duke has caused a new Palace to be built, which is large and magnificent, and the Furniture is rich, new, and excellently well chosen. Among the rest, there are very fine Pictures, and a Cabinet full of Curiosities.
The Duke of Blanckenbourg, Brother to the Duke of Wolfembuttle, has a particular Palace, where he resides in the Fair-time, but it did not appear to me to be a House of any consequence.
The Fairs of Brunswic contribute very much to make it a rich and famous City, there being two held every Year, and a considerable Trade carried on at both.
There is very good Diversion during these Fairs; for then all the Ducal Family is generally at Brunswic; to which foreign Princes come often, and there is always a great Concourse of the Nobility. The Duke sends every Morning to invite the Quality of both Sexes, who at Noon repair to the Palace. The Grand Marshal, for avoiding all Disputes about Precedency, causes the Ladies to be match'd with the Gentlemen by the drawing of Tickets; and sometimes it happens that a Dutchess
is at the lower end of the Table, which is served with very great Magnificence and Elegance. When there are too many Guests to sit at one Table, the two Brothers keep each a separate Table at his own Palace. At Night, the Company repairs to the German Opera, which being ended, they pass into Rooms joining to the Theatre where they play, and sup, and then dance. The Ball is open'd by the Gentleman who happened to draw the first Number in the Morning, and continues till Day-break.
The Ducal Family of Brunswic-Wolfembuttle consists now but of two Brothers; the eldest of whom, the Duke[37] Augustus-William, has had three Wives, but no Issue. He is married to a Princess of Holstein-Norbourg.
These two Princes are so far advanced in Years, that the Duke Ferdinand-Albert of Brunswic-Lunenbourg-Bevern, Son-in-law to the Duke of Blanckenbourg[38], is looked upon as their presumptive Heir. Europe produces few Princes of more distinguished Merit, who have equal Knowledge, more Learning, and Integrity, or more Valour and Experience in War. He has acquired a noble Reputation in Hungary; and he is not only a Brother-in-law to the Emperor, but one of his favourite Generals, and has a Regiment in his Service[39].
His Family consists of four Sons and three Daughters[40] by his Wife Antonietta-Amelia of Brunswic-Blanckenbourg. These are very hopeful young Princes. The eldest, whose Name is Charles[41], is of a lovely Make, and has Sense infinitely beyond his Years. The eldest Princess, Elizabeth-Christina[42], at twelve Years of Age may pass for one that is compleatly grown; her Air is noble and modest; her Features regular; in a word, she is form'd to make that Prince happy who is one day to be her Husband.
The Court of Wolfembuttle is numerous, and when assembled does not want for Magnificence.
The Ministers of most Power are the Baron Stein[43], and the Count de Debn[44]. The former
is descended of an illustrious Family in Swabia: He was in the Service of the Landgrave of Darmstadt, and his Envoy at the Dyet of Ratisbon, and several Courts, where he made himself considerable by his Eloquence, the Justness of his Sentiments, by the Ease with which he expresses them, and by his Politeness.
The Count de Dehn is a Native of Mecklemburg, where he was born of a good Family, and enter'd very young a Page to Duke Anthony-Ulric of Brunswic-Wolfembuttle. He had the Happiness to please that Prince, but much more his Successor, the Duke Augustus-William, who of his Page, made him his Favourite and Minister, heaped Wealth and Honours upon him, and match'd him to the Daughter of his Chancellor, who was one of the richest Heiresses in all Germany.
The young Minister finding himself rich and powerful, quickly thought the Court of Wolfembuttle too narrow a Stage for Action. He had chose the Count de Fleming, Prime Minister of the King of Poland, for a Model. He saw that this Minister, under pretence of important Negotiations, went to the chief Courts of the Empire to make a Parade of his Riches; and young Dehn long'd with Impatience to imitate him. He procur'd himself to be nominated the Duke's Envoy Extraordinary to Holland and France, where he vy'd in every respect with the Ambassadors of the chief Crowns. In fine, after having staid about eighteen Months at Paris, he went away very much lamented by the Merchants and Workmen with whom he had dealings. He came to Wolfembuttle to receive the Applauses of his Master,
and to rest himself after the Fatigues he had undergone in his important Negotiations.
As Count Fleming was honoured with the Orders of Denmark, Russia, and Poland, his Rival too thought he could not do without one Ribbon at least; and thinking the Order of Dannebrock the most proper for him, because it was white, he demanded and obtained it of Frederic IV. the King of Denmark. When he saw himself thus adorn'd, he procured himself to be sent to Vienna. What business he had there, I know not; but he was scarce ever from the Emperor, and in order to be nearer to his Person, he lodged just by the Palace of the Favorita. He often relieved the Cares of the Ministry by making some Entertainment or Ball. He had an admirable Genius for Dancing, so that every body thought him the Inventor of Country-Dances. The Emperor gave him the Title of a Count, with which he returned to his own Court.
When Glory has once fir'd a noble Soul, nothing can keep it within Bounds. The Count de Dehn had lost his first Wife, who left him the Heir of three great Estates; and he married again to an amiable Lady, who return'd him Love for Love. Tho' he was dear to his Master, yet he could not resolve to continue at Wolfembuttle, because he had a Taste for nothing but Treaties and Negotiations. He returned a second time, as Envoy Extraordinary to the States-General, but did not stay long at the Hague; for after having had his publick Audience, wherein he assured their High-Mightinesses of the sincere Affection of his Master for their Republic, and of his own personal Joy to find himself seated in an Arm-Chair in their Assembly, he went over to England to reside at the Court of his Britannic Majesty. He was admired for his Grandeur, as much in England as elsewhere; but the Air of that Country not agreeing with the Delicacy of his Constitution,
he return'd to Germany; and, after having made a tour to the chief Courts of the Empire, he is come back to Wolfembuttle, where he stays in expectation that some great Event or other will turn up, that he may be employ'd in some remarkable Embassy, whereby Europe, attentive to every thing that relates to him, may have fresh Proofs of his great Talents.
The Baron de Hagen is Commander in Chief of the Duke's Troops, which actually amount to above 4000 Men, and 'tis said, that his Highness's Revenues exceed two Millions of Crowns. His Subjects are not the worst used of any in Germany. 'Tis a good fruitful Country; the Peasants, who are sober and laborious, are as clownish and as stupid as those that herd with the Hogs in Westphalia; but they are robust, strong, and good Soldiers.
In Brunswic there is a Catholick Church which is small, but neat. The Duke Anthony-Ulric caus'd it to be built at the time he embraced the Catholick Religion; which he did, after full Conviction, not many Years before his Death.
Saltzdahl, a Pleasure-House belonging to the Duke, is a League from Brunswic, and from Wolfembuttle. It was built by Duke Anthony-Ulric, one of the most magnificent Princes of his Time, and one who had the most elegant Taste. This House is worthy of nice Observation. It has a great Gallery with a Collection of Pictures in it by the chief Painters, which is not to be met with elsewhere. In one great Cabinet there is very fine Porcellane; and in another, a vast number of Vessels and Urns painted by Raphael. In short, the Curious can't want here for Entertainment.
The Road from Brunswic to Wolfembuttle is as pleasant as most Roads. We cross a little Wood through which there are several Routes cut, and as
we come near the Town, several pretty Seats appear in view.
The Town of Wolfembuttle is not half so big as Brunswic, nor is it better built, the Houses being of Timber. The Fortifications seem to me to be in good Repair. The Castle, or Ducal Palace, is ancient, and makes no great Appearance, but 'tis commodious, and has good Lodging-Rooms. That which most deserves the Attention of a Traveller, is the Library, which is one of the best chosen in Europe, and contains very scarce Books and Manuscripts.
As I had left the Court at Brunswic I did not stay many Hours at Wolfembuttle, but came to lie here at Blanckenbourg, where I have all that Heart can wish for.
The Duke is as affable and as civil a Prince as any in the World. In his Youth he visited the principal Courts of Europe, where he contracted a great Politeness, and a solid Taste of Elegancy. He loves the Belles Lettres, protects the Arts and Sciences, and looks out for Men of Ability to serve him. He is magnificent, generous, a good Prince, and a kind Master. He was at one and the same time, the Father of an Empress, and the Grandfather of an Emperor. As a Father, he has a considerable Pension from the Emperor of Germany; and as a Grandfather, he has been honour'd with the Order of St. Andrew of Muscovy, founded by Peter the Great, which is a blue Ribbon, with St. Andrew's Cross appendant to it enamell'd with blue. This Prince is also a Commander of Suplenbourg, a Commandery of the Order of St. John, annexed to the House of Brunswic. He has had three Daughters by his Wife Elizabeth-Christina of Oetingen.
The Dutchess, tho' advanc'd in Years, retains an Air of Grandeur and Majesty which strikes the Beholders, and her Features discover the Marks of
that shining Beauty which she had in her Youth. But what renders this Princess more venerable than even her Birth, is her solid Piety, her just Discernment, her lively Imagination, her noble and easy manner of expressing herself, and her Principles of Humanity, accompany'd with a Generosity free from all Ostentation.
I had the honour to pay my Duty to her at Brunswic, some Years ago, when she receiv'd me with such Tokens of Goodness as rejoic'd my very Heart; and upon all Occasions since, she has been pleas'd to give me fresh Proofs of it. As I can be of no service to this Princess in any Case, nor so happy as to be able to contribute to her Glory, 'tis my Ambition to make every one, and you, Sir, in particular, sensible of the Respect and Attachment with which I am devoted to her, and of the grateful Sense I have of the Benevolence with which she has honour'd me.
The Courtiers of Blanckenbourg are, like their Master, very polite. M. de Munchausen is the chief of the Duke's Council, and was formerly in the Service of the Duke of Wolfembuttle. He is a Gentleman of great Learning, Labour, and Vigilance, and has a distinct and noble Manner of Delivery. He is heartily attach'd to his Master; and the Courtiers seem'd to me to have an Esteem and Affection for him. Men of solid Judgment, and who have been more conversant with this Minister than I, have assured me that he is one of the greatest Genius's at this present, in Germany[45].
M. de Sporck is the Grand Marshal, which Employment he acquits himself in with very great Politeness and Care. He is come of a good Family, his
Father being Minister of State, and Director of the Dutchies of Zell and Lunenbourg. M. de Polentz[46] does the Honours of the Court under him, in quality of Great Cup-Bearer. As he had his Education at Court, he is vastly polite; and Foreigners cannot but be pleas'd with his good Behaviour.
The Duke and Dutchess delight to see Foreigners at their Court, whom they load with Civilities, and will have them always to dine and sup with their Highnesses. After Dinner, they take the Air, or make Visits; and in the Evening there's an Assembly in the Dutchess's Apartment, where they play, then sup, and afterwards every one retires. We have had a Comedy twice or thrice, which is acted by the young People of the Family, who perform their Parts very well; especially in the Tragedies of Corneille and Racine, translated into High-Dutch.
The Pleasures of the Carnival are more gay, at which time the Duke makes Entertainments: There's a Ball, a Masquerade, and Comedy at Court, every Day; and for the time there's so great a Concourse of Strangers here from the neighbouring Towns, that sometimes 'tis impossible to get a Lodging.
The Town of Blanckenbourg is small, and the Houses ill built, and inconvenient. The Duke has done all in his power to engage the Inhabitants to build; he has offer'd them Materials gratis, and has moreover endeavour'd to inspire them with a Taste for the Arts; but all without Success.
I never in my whole Life, saw People more indolent and clownish than those of Blanckenbourg, and the neighbouring Towns. They are so bigotted to old Customs, that they say, My Father liv'd so, and so will I; My Father did not do this, nor will I. I cannot conceive how People, so dull as they are, and so strongly attach'd to the Institutions of their
Forefathers, came to give into Luther's Reformation.[47]
Blanckenbourg is a petty County, which Duke Anthony-Ulric yielded in his Life-time to his second Son, to make him some sort of Compensation for the Right of Primogeniture, which he had newly introduc'd into his Family, to that Son's prejudice: For the Princes of Brunswic had for a long time been us'd to a Partition of Lands in their Families. The Hanover Branch was the first that abolish'd that Custom, pernicious to great Families. Duke Anthony-Ulric was only restrain'd from it by Pr. Lewis his second Son, whom he lov'd more than his eldest; and not caring to leave him without Dominions, to the Discretion of a Brother, he gave him Possession of this State in his Life-time; because he was of Opinion, that after his Death, his Will wou'd have the Fate of not being executed by his Successor, according to the Custom introduc'd among Sovereigns. With them 'tis a Right of Regale, but for us to do so, is a Crime.
As the County of Blanckenbourg does not give Admittance into the College of Princes at the Dyet of the Empire, so it does not give the Rank of a Sovereign Prince to the Person in possession of it. The Duke, in order to procure himself both these Privileges, made a Treaty with the Elector of Hanover, whereby he got that Prince to yield him the Vote and Seat which he enjoy'd in the Dyet for his Dutchy of Grubenhagen: And the Duke, on his part, engaged never to vote at the Dyet but in conformity to the Sentiments of the Elector. After his Decease, or if he happens to succeed his Brother,
the Vote and Session for Grubenhagen revert to the Elector[48].
This, Sir, is all that I can say to you at present. Their Highnesses being to set out in a few days for Oetingen, where they use to go every Summer, I propose to go forthwith to Leipsic and Dresden: And at the latter Place I hope to hear from you.
I am, &c.
