LETTER XI.
SIR,Prague, November 15, 1729.
I have now been a Month in this City, yet it seems but as a Day; for I find infinite Amusements here, and a thousand things that I like, only I want your Company. The City of Prague is ancient, and has been time out of mind, the Seat of the Kings of Bohemia. 'Tis without dispute one of the Biggest Towns in Europe. 'Tis encompass'd with Ramparts, and as well fortified as a Place of that Extent can be, and commanded by several Hills, which 'tis impossible to level. This City is divided by the River Molde or Muldaw, into two Parts, viz. Old Prague and Little Prague; and during the Course of the last Century, it suffer'd the greatest Cruelties that a City can possibly undergo in a time of War. The Archduke Leopold Bishop of Passau surpriz'd and plunder'd the lesser Part, and would have done the same by the old Town, if the Emperor Matthias King of Hungary had not come in time to relieve it. Nine Years after this, Prague was again plunder'd by those who were most concerned to preserve it; I mean the Imperialists, who, after the Battle at Weissenberg, near Prague, wherein they defeated Frederic Elector Palatine whom a Party had chose King of Bohemia, enter'd the City, and carried off inestimable Booty. Prague was used no better in 1631, by the Elector of Saxony, after that Prince made himself Master of Bohemia. The Great Walstein of so much Note for
his Glorious Actions, and his Tragical Exit, recover'd Bohemia from the Saxon in 1632, and took Prague by Storm. Some time after this the Swedes attack'd it, and took the lesser Prague; but could not force the old Town, it was so courageously defended by the Students and Burghers. The Swedes thereupon retired, and carry'd off immense Wealth. At length the Peace of Westphalia restored Tranquillity to Bohemia and the City of Prague, which has been subject ever since to the House of Austria; and the Kingdom which before was Elective, had the Mortification to become Hereditary.
The Situation of Prague is pleasant in the midst of Gardens and fine Fields, and 'tis adorn'd with noble Buildings, of which the Houses of the Counts Tschernin and Sternberg are as fine as any. The Furniture of the former is extremely rich; there is a Gallery adorned with excellent Pictures, a Cabinet of choice Porcellane with entire Services of the finest Indian Lacca; and another Room full of fine Arms and other Curiosities. Count Sternberg's House is not so large, yet better contriv'd; and in Rome it self would pass for a fine Palace. But there is one built by the late Count de Gallasch, who died Viceroy at Naples, that bears the Bell above all. You know that Nobleman was prodigiously rich and magnificent. He spared no Cost in his Buildings. 'Tis pity the House is not well situate, but it certainly would be so, if the young Count de Gallasch was of the same Way of Thinking with his Father, who intended to have had five or six old Hovels belonging to it pull'd down to the ground, by which means he would have had a fine Square.
The Convents of both Sexes are another Ornament of this Great City. The House of the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits is one of the most magnificent. They have lately caused a Church to be built, which is one of the best adorned that I have
seen out of Italy. If you were but here, we would go together and see all those Buildings. I would carry you first of all to the Cathedral, which is in lesser Prague, on the Top of the Hill call'd Ratschin, and from thence we would go and take a View of the Castle which is upon the same Hill.
The Metropolitan Church is a very antient Structure, which was burnt down by the Swedes, and is only rebuilt in part. Its Magnificence and Beauty consist in the thickness of its Walls and Arches; and the Architecture of this Church is such, that I fancy it would appear Gothic to the very Goths themselves. 'Tis in this Cathedral that the Kings and Queens of Bohemia are consecrated. The Archbishop of Prague's Office is to perform the Unction upon both; but the Abbess of St. George, whose Abbey is also upon the Hill of Ratschin, is to place the Crown upon the Head of the Queen, and in this Function she is assisted by the Wives of the Great Officers of the Crown.
In this Metropolitan Church are preserved with great Veneration the Bodies of a couple of Saints extremely dear to the Bohemians. The one is St. Wenceslaus King of Bohemia, the other St. John Nepomucene. The latter was very lately canonized by Pope Benedict XIII. at the Request of the States of this Kingdom, who were at the whole Expence of the Ceremony, which was performed in the Church of St. John de Lateran at Rome with extraordinary Pomp.
The Story of this Saint is very singular: He was Confessor to the Wife of that cruel Emperor Wenceslaus, who was deposed by the Electors. That Prince being jealous of his Queen enjoined St. John Nepomucene to reveal that Princess's Confessions to him. He employed Presents, Prayers and Threats, to persuade the Saint to make this Discovery, but all to no purpose; upon which he caused him to be
cast headlong from the Bridge into the River of Molde. The Body was seen floating at some distance from the Place, attended with five Stars swimming on the Water; then he was added to the Number of the Saints and Martyrs, and his Corpse was taken out of the River, and carried with Pomp to Prague, where it was interr'd in the Church of Dain in the old Town, of which he was a Canon. His Corpse being found some Years ago, his Tongue appearing to be as fresh as ever, was taken out of his Mouth and put into a Silver Gilt Box; the Body was enclosed in a stately Coffin, and the whole carried with great Ceremony to the Cathedral. An Altar being erected in the middle of the right Wing of the Choir, there the Saint was interr'd in a Tomb of Silver Gilt; and the Tongue put into a sort of Tabernacle where it has wrought and does still work great Miracles. There is a great Concourse of People hither from all Parts to invoke this Saint, whose Tomb is loaded with precious Gifts, and adorned by the Empress with a rich Canopy. But no body has given more illustrious Proofs of Devotion to St. Nepomucene than the Prince de Schwartzenberg[88] Master of the Horse to the Emperor, and the Count de Martinitz Marshal of the Imperial Court; who both ascribe the Conception of their Wives, and the Birth of their Sons, to the Protection of that Saint, tho' I should have thought all this feasible enough without a Miracle. The Princess de Schwartzenberg had not been married many Years before she had a Daughter[89]; her Husband had not seen her for fourteen Years after this, during which she had no Children. This is no more than common; after they came together again Madam is brought to Bed of a Son, in which tho' there is nothing but what is very
natural, yet 'tis cry'd up for a Miracle; the Birth is ascribed to the Devotion which the Princes paid to the Tomb of St. Nepomucene for nine Days together, and to make the Saint some amends, his Tomb and his Altar are adorn'd by a great many Vessels of Silver and Silver gilt.
As to Count Martinitz there seems indeed to be better colour for a Miracle in his favour. He had been married fourteen or fifteen Years, and his Lady never given the least Sign of Teemingness. She was in good plight of body, her Husband liv'd with her, and they went together several times to the Baths of Carlsbad, but all had signified nothing. The Count longing passionately for a Son had perform'd more than nine days Devotion successively, for he went the last Holy Year to Loretto and to Rome. But Heaven deaf to his Cries granted him no Heir; at last knowing not what Saint to pray to, his Lady propos'd, that they should go and worship nine days together at the Tomb of St. Nepomucene. They set out, they arrive at Prague, they prostrate themselves before the sacred Tomb. Soon after, Madame de Martinitz proves with Child, and at nine Months end is delivered of a Son. You may say whatever you please, but such a Favour sure was worth some Lamps of solid Silver before the Saint's Tomb; and the Count de Martinitz full of Zeal and Gratitude has given some that are very magnificent.
The Bohemians have so great confidence in St. John de Nepomucene, that they have almost forgot St. Wenceslaus their old Patron. There is no Church where St. John has not a Chapel, no Bridge without his Effigy; every body Gentle and Simple, Men and Women, wear his Picture as if it were the Badge of an Order, hanging to a straw-colour'd Ribbon, and you would swear that all the Bohemians were Knights of St. Louis. In short, St. Nepomucene is
the only Saint in vogue; and Presents are heap'd upon him to such a degree that if it continues much longer, he will be as rich as our Lady of Loretto.
The Palace or Castle which joins to the Cathedral is a great Building composed of several Main Bodies without Symmetry or Architecture. The Apartments are but low and plain, but here is one of the most beautiful Prospects in the World. The great Hall in which the Royal Feast is kept on the Day of the Coronation of the Kings is the largest of the kind, next to the spacious Hall of Westminster. The Palace-Gardens are large, but have nothing to recommend them besides their Situation. The Tribunals of the Regency meet in the Palace: The first of these consists of Stadtholders who are of the Emperor's Privy Council. They are to the Number of twelve, and represent the Sovereign. Most of them are the great Officers of the Crown. There must be always two of them private Gentlemen to take care of the Interests of the Gentry against the Nobility; for you must know that the Princes, Counts, and Barons, who compose the Nobility, form a separate Body here, and would think it a Disparagement to be call'd Gentlemen; tho' Henry IV. King of France counted it an honour to be the first Gentleman in his Kingdom, and King Francis I. whenever he affirmed a thing, said, Upon the Word of a Gentleman.
The Chief of the Council of the Stadtholders is call'd the Great Burgrave, whose Dignity is the highest in the Kingdom. He represents the Person of the Emperor, and is inferior to none but the Chancery of Bohemia which always attends the Emperor.
The Bridge over the Muldaw which joins little Prague to the old Town, is one of the longest and most substantial Bridges in Europe. It has on both
sides the Statues of several Saints, which if they had been done by a better hand, would have prov'd an Ornament. There is a Crucifix also which is pretended to be of Gold, and to have been erected formerly at the Expence of the Jews, pursuant to an Order of the Government, as a Punishment for their having crucified a Christian Infant upon Easter-Day, to insult the Memory of our Saviour's Death.
The Jews are the only Sectaries that are tolerated in Bohemia. There are some Hussites still subsisting, but they keep so close, that the Government does not seem to know that there are any at all. I was assur'd that in Prague alone there were no less than 80,000 Jews; whether there are quite so many, I know not; but 'tis certain they are very numerous. Their Quarter in the old City forms a little separate Town. They have all the Trade in their own hands, follow all sorts of Callings, and by their receiving all old-fashion'd things in Payment, they quite ruin the Christian Handicrafts-men. As these People multiply like Rabbets, 'tis said the Emperor is going to issue an Ordinance prohibiting any but their eldest Sons to marry; the Report of which is so alarming to the Jews, that they would advance great Sums to prevent its taking effect.
If we except Rome, Paris, and London, there is no City where there are more Gentry, or a Gentry that is more wealthy: Every body here lives grand; and in no Part of the World do the Nobility keep greater State, or take more Pride in their Substance. They are polite and civil to Strangers, whom they know to be Persons of Quality. For my own part, I like them prodigiously, and I can safely say it, I have hardly met with a Foreigner who has not the same Notion of Prague that I have.
There is not a Gentleman in this Country but has seen at least Holland, France, and Italy, and indeed they are under some necessity of travelling, for the Education they have at home is none of the best. But they don't travel as People of their Birth and Fortunes ought to do. They are commonly attended by a sort of Governors, who make it their Profession to ramble abroad with young Gentlemen, and are for the most part Walloons, Luxemburghers, Lorrainers, or Liegeois, Soldiers of Fortune, without Education, and without Manners; who think 'tis enough for their Pupils to see Houses and Churches, and having not the Courage or the Capacity to put themselves forward, or even to shew their Heads, don't care that their Gentlemen should keep Company. They tell young Master, that my Lord his Father, who put him under their Care, recommended Œconomy to them; that they might game at Assemblies, but that 'tis not well to play while they are travelling: Therefore the Spark is oblig'd to keep in his Quarters, or if he is perhaps permitted to go to the public Shews, even this Pleasure, because it is not to be had without Money, must be taken in Moderation; the Governor's Aim is only to crib all he can, and sink his Pupil's Money into his own Purse. This is so true that I have known some who never eat Suppers, yet always brought them to Accompt; many of 'em get a Profit by every thing they buy, and they make such hard Bargains that 'tis ten to one if they don't chouse the Merchant as well as their Pupil. If the Governor does not like the Place they come to, he must be gone, tho' it were the most proper Town in the World to form the young Gentleman; for the Governor only writes to the Father or Mother that the Air did not agree with their Son, and that therefore he had remov'd him. The Generality of these wretched Guides maintain that six Weeks or
three Months Stay at most is sufficient to know Paris; a Fortnight to be thoroughly acquainted with the Genius of the English; a Month to know Rome; a Week to see Naples; and so of the rest: And when they have shewn their Gentleman at Paris, the Anatomical Wax-work and the Observatory; at London, the Lions in the Tower; at Rome, the Catacombs; and at Naples, the Liquefaction of St. Januarius's Blood, and Mount Vesuvius; they think they have done great matters, and away they go without having made an Acquaintance with one Soul at any of the Courts. They have seen the King of France touch for the Evil; The King of England go to the Parliament-House; and the Pope sitting in his Elbow-Chair, distributing his Benedictions. With a Mind thus adorn'd, the young Man, after eighteen Months or two Years Absence abroad, returns home. The Governor has two or three thousand Florins, and sometimes more as a Gratuity, besides his Stipend. Again, the worthy Mentor makes a Bubble of the Father who trusts his Son with him, and behold now, he is ready for another Tour. One would think that, instead of travelling in this manner, it were better to send abroad for the Plans of all the Towns, I am sure 'twould be cheaper; the Parents would have the comfort to see their Sons at home, and they would also have wherewithal to furnish a little Box in the Country.
There are no People of Quality in the World more addicted to an expensive way of Living than those of Prague, which is the Reason that for all their immense Revenues they are sometimes over Head and Ears in Debt; but by good Luck they have a Settlement which prevents them from total Ruin: For most of their Lands are intail'd for ever on the eldest Son of the Family, so that he can neither alienate nor incumber them without the Consent
of the whole Family, and of the King himself, which is a Thing very hard to be obtain'd. When an eldest Son of a Family has squander'd his Freehold, and runs himself more and more in debt, the Creditors, and sometimes the Parents themselves, present a Petition to the King and desire a Sequestration. The King after being inform'd of the List of the Debts, and of the Majorat (which is the Name they give here to the Lands that are intail'd) names Trustees for the Administration of the Estates of the Spendthrift, who is allow'd a Pension till all the Debts are paid. There's another very good Establishment here for securing the Sale of Landed Estates and Mortgages. Every Nobleman gives in a Particular of his Estate to a Tribunal which is call'd the Landtaffel, where the same is register'd. When a Person wants to borrow Money or to make a Sale, the Lender or the Purchaser has recourse to the Landtaffel's Office, where he sees whether the Lands are incumber'd; and if the Borrower's Debts don't exceed two Thirds of the Price at which they are rated by the Landtaffel, he may lend his Money very safely.
Tho' the Bohemians are brave and good Soldiers, yet they don't love the Service, I mean the Gentry: Most of them prefer the Civil to Military Employments, and a private Life to Posts in the Army or at Court. They are so us'd to be absolute Masters at their Estates where the Peasants are their Slaves, and to be homag'd like Petty Sovereigns by the Burghers at Prague, that they don't care to reside at Vienna, and to be oblig'd like other Subjects to pay their Court to the Sovereign and the Ministers. As soon as a Gentleman of Bohemia comes of Age, he is oblig'd to take an Oath of Fidelity to the Emperor as his King; which is a Law as much binding on the Nobility as the Gentry; and none of 'em dare to go out of the Kingdom without express
Leave from the Emperor, on the Penalty of forfeiting his Estate. When the Noblemen are return'd from their Travels to France and Italy, they put in to be Chamberlains, not so much for the sake of engaging themselves to Attendance at Court as to procure a Precedency for their Wives, it being a Custom with most of 'em to marry as soon as they come of Age. Afterwards they aim to be Counsellors of State, and Stadtholders, and this is the Ne plus ultra of their Preferments. The Counsellors of State challenge the Title of Excellency: But this is what those who are not of that Denomination, and of as good Families as themselves, scruple to allow them, so that generally speaking they have it only given them by their Domestics and Dependants. So that one may say of their Excellencies what the Duchess of Elbœuf of the Lorrain Family said in France concerning the Princes of Bouillon, that they were Domestic Highnesses, because none but their own Servants give them the Title of Highness.
Of all the great and wealthy Families, those of Lobkowitz, Kinski, Schlick, Collobradt, and Martinitz are the only ones that make a Figure at the Imperial Court. 'Tis true there are several other Noblemen at Vienna who have Lands in Bohemia, but then their Families are not originally descended from that Kingdom.
The Kinski's Family is actually the most splendid at Court. There are five Brothers of it in Employments. The eldest is the Great Chancellor of Bohemia[90]. The second who is call'd Count Stephen, is Great Marshal of Bohemia, a Minister of State, and the Emperor's Ambassador at the Court of France[91]. The third, Count Philip, is the Emperor's
Minister Plenipotentiary to Great Britain; and the two youngest are in the Army, where one of them is a Lieutenant-Colonel. Count Philip was sent Ambassador when but twenty nine Years old. He has demonstrated by his Conduct that Wisdom does not always stay for Age, and that he is the worthy Son of one of the greatest Ministers that[92] the Emperors Leopold and Joseph ever had. The City of Prague is a very great Loser by his Absence, for he liv'd there with Splendor, and his House was always open, particularly to Foreigners. For my own part I receiv'd such Civilities there as I shall never forget.
As I have told you that the Nobility of Bohemia are the richest in the Empire, I must also acquaint you that the Peasants there are miserable to the last degree; their Persons, and all they have, are at the Command of their Lord. The poor Wretches have often not a Bit of Bread to eat, in a Country which is one of the most plentiful in Europe for all sorts of Provisions. They dare not go from one Village to another to work, nor learn a Handicraft without their Lord's Consent. So much Subjection keeps the poor Creatures always trembling and humble, so that if you do but speak to 'em they are ready to lick the Dust off your Feet. The Severity with which these People are us'd is really terrible, but 'tis as true on the other hand, that gentle Usage has no Effect upon 'em; for they are excessively lazy and stubborn, and being moreover us'd to harsh Treatment from Generation to Generation, Blows scarce terrify them, tho' tis the only way to make 'em good for any thing.
The Bohemians have a great many Talents for Music, so that there's no Village, be it ever so small, but the Mass is sung in Concert, and they are very happy at winding the Hunters Horn.
'Tis certain that this Kingdom is one of the best Countries in the Emperor's possession, and next to Hungary, brings him in most Money.
Bohemia is a Country of States, whom the Emperor as King of it, summons every Year to the City of Prague. They consist of the Clergy, Nobility, Gentry, and Towns. The Assembly is open'd by a Commissioner of the Emperor's Nomination, who lays before them his Imperial Majesty's Demands. The States, such is their Submission and Zeal, grant the full Demand which is commonly a very great Sum; yet for all this, the Bohemians wou'd not complain of Taxes if the Emperor resided among them, but they are sorry to see their Country exhausted to enrich the Austrians to whom they have a natural Aversion, and the Austrians as heartily hate the Bohemians.
I own to you I shall be sorry to leave Prague. I take the Bohemians to be the best People upon Earth, and Prague to be one of those Towns of the Empire where a Gentleman may have most choice of Company. The Ladies here are very amiable. Gaming, which may be call'd the universal Pleasure, is carry'd as high here as they please in Houses of the Quality, where Assemblies of both Sexes are held every Night, with good Cheer, particularly Pheasants and Ortolans in plenty; and upon Fish-Days, there are Trouts, Salmon, and Cray-Fish; and that there may be nothing wanting, Bohemia likewise furnishes good Wine. At the Estate of the young Count Tschernin at Melneg, there is a red sort not inferior to Burgundy. Of all these good Things many partake together, and for my part I own I am taken more with this
Pleasure than any other, because we make it last as long as we will, and then 'tis suited to all Ages.
There is a tolerable Italian Opera here. In Winter they have Races in stately Sledges: There is great Masquerading, and they dance till they are ready to drop to the ground: For this end there are public Balls which are extraordinary splendid, and might be compar'd, if any can be compar'd, with the Balls at the Hay-Market in London.
In the Summer-Time when there is not so much Company in Town, these Assemblies are thinner. The Gentry meet at Night in a Garden belonging to the Prince de Schwartzenberg, where they game, chat, and walk up and down, after which they always go to some House or other to sup. When one has a mind to go to the Country, we are sure of a good Reception, and the longer one stays the greater Pleasure one gives to the Master of the House. Here they pass the Time in Hunting of all sorts. Many of the Nobility keep Packs of Hounds, and others Hawks. The Generality keep Musicians in their Service, so that let the Weather be what it will, one may be always amused in this Country. Besides, one enjoys all the Freedom here that can be. After this, Sir, can you blame me for being sorry to leave Bohemia? But 'tis what I'm now preparing to do, and I purpose to go to Vienna. You will be so good as to let me have a Line from you there; for to be plain with you, to write three Letters for one is too hard. 'Tis true that your's are of inestimable Value, and that therefore you are in the right not to be lavish of them; but the same Reason justifies me in desiring them. Adieu, Sir: Love me always a little, and be assur'd that no Man is more than I, &c.
