LETTER XXVI.
SIR,Venice, May 15, 1730.
The Common-wealth keeps twelve Galleys in pay, and twenty Men of War. The Capitana Galley, call'd the Fusta, never goes out of the Great Canal, but is continually at Anchor before the Square of St. Mark. There's commonly four Galleys and as many Men of War in the Levant. Others lie at Anchor in the Canal of Zueca, which were lately drawn out of the Arsenal, because for want of Water the Ships receive Damage. The Power of the Republic consists chiefly in its Maritime Force. It maintains very few Land Forces, and those they have are all kept at Corfou, which is the Rampart of Venice, and the Defence of the Gulph; the Preservation of which is owing to the Count de Schulemburg, General in chief of the Republic; for in the last War when the Turks attempted to take it, 'twas he that oblig'd them to raise the Siege: And the Republic in acknowledgment of this important Service caus'd his Statue on Horseback to be erected in the Square of the Old Castle of Corfou; and settled a Pension upon him of 5000 Crowns a-year for his Life, besides his ordinary Salary.
'Tis certain that Venice has suffer'd a Decay both of Power and Commerce. The Turks have taken
the Morea from her; she has little or nothing left in the Levant; and as to her Places in the Terra Firma they are poor, depopulated, and meanly fortified. One of the main Securities of Venice is her Lakes; but for some Years past they begin to thicken so by the Mud and Dirt brought by the Rivers which fall into the Gulph, as in time must prove to the very great Detriment of Venice, because Ships which us'd formerly to go in or out with ease, can only go out now by the help of a Canal which has been cut for the purpose. This Inconvenience might have formerly been prevented for a trifle of Expence, whereas now 'tis past all remedy.
The Powers of which the Venetians ought to be most jealous, are the Turks and the Emperor, in whose Dominions they are in a manner inclos'd. The Great Duke of Tuscany and the Duke of Parma were formerly Powers which were of little or no Terror to the Republic; but if those Dominions shou'd ever come under the Sovereignty of Don Carlos, the political System of Italy will be very much alter'd, and the Venetians will in all probability be oblig'd to keep fair with him. The Republic has for a long time observ'd an exact Neutrality in the Quarrels among the Princes of Christendom, perhaps because it knows not for which side to determine itself; for tho' the Senate hates the Spaniards, and cannot forget the famous Conspiracy of the Marquiss de Bedmar the Catholic King's Ambassador; they don't much like either the Germans or French, whose Power gives them Umbrage. And I believe, were it possible for the Venetians to hurt those three Powers at the same time, we shou'd quickly see their Republic rouze itself from that Lethargy in which it's profound State-Policy has doz'd it.
Since the English and Dutch became Masters of the Commerce of Europe, the Trade of Venice is as much
decay'd as its Power; and their Manufactures are sunk extremely. The Venetians heretofore furnished almost all Europe with Cloth; their Looking-Glasses, and those for Drinking, were also in great vogue, but those Manufactures are since transplanted into other Countries, so that Venice scarce furnishes any more than Italy. 'Tis worth while however to go and see the Glass-House where they work Night and Day, except in August and September, when the Heats are too violent. 'Tis certain the Drinking-Glasses made here are much stronger than any other, but as they are blown they are not near so substantial as the Glass that is run; however they require less Labour, and have the Advantage when they are broke of being melted again; the Matter of which they are composed being much more flexible than that of the run Glass.
The Nobles of Venice are Slaves to Policy, Diffidence, and Suspicion; and Ambassadors are much more so, whom every one shuns as suspected Persons, and whom a Foreigner can scarce talk to without renouncing his Correspondence with the Nobles. An Ambassador is oblig'd to confine himself to his own Family, or else to amuse himself in the Company of Foreigners, of whom there is always a good number in this City; for no Nobleman dare visit him without the express leave of the Senate, who now indeed grant it much more freely than they did formerly.
Customs are alter'd here in very many things. 'Twas formerly a Crime to see a Woman in private, and a Foreigner did not dare to run the Venture; but now the case is quite different, for there are several Houses of Quality where I am indulg'd, and am often tête a tête with the Mistress of the House, without any more notice taken of me than if I were in France, where Ease and Freedom are
so much boasted. The Ladies are great Visiters, and have Assemblies every Night, to which they repair alone in their Gondola's without any other Attendance but a Valet de Chambre, who serves as their Gentleman-Usher. They are mask'd at all public Performances, and go where they have a mind to it. This easy access to the Ladies contributes not a little to make my Stay in this City agreeable. I own to you that I am infinitely charm'd with it; there are a thousand Things here that please me, and were I to chuse any City in Italy to live in, 'twould certainly be this, where People enjoy entire Liberty, provided they don't meddle with the State and its Government, which after all too, I don't think a Foreigner has much to do with. Here one is in the Centre of civil Pleasures and Debauchery. God is as exemplarily serv'd here as in any Place whatsoever. Few Nations observe the Externals of Religion better than the Italians in general and the Venetians in particular, of whom it may be said that they spend one half of their time in committing Sin, and the other half in begging God's pardon.
Masquerades are more in fashion here than elsewhere. People go in Masks to take the Air, as well as to Plays and Balls; and 'tis the favourite Pleasure both of the Grandees and the Commonalty. This gives rise to many Adventures, and sometimes one makes Acquaintance under a Mask which would be impracticable perhaps, were not such Disguises in Fashion. I remember that the first time I was here I struck up an Acquaintance in the Square of St. Mark with two of the first-rate Ladies of this Country. They were mask'd, and I was in a Scarlet Domino embroider'd with Silver, which being a Habit that had been seldom seen here, drew the Eyes of all the Company in the Square upon me, and in particular of two Ladies, one of whom twitching
me by the Sleeve, said to me, 'Sir, I and the Lady here, my Friend, fancy by your Air which outstrips our Gentlemen, that you are a Foreigner, and we are inclin'd to think that you are no mean Person. We should be glad of your Conversation, and you will do us a Pleasure to take a turn with us round the Square.—You do me too much Honour, fair Lady (said I, walking on) and what you tell me of my Appearance pleases me the more because you are both the compleatest Ladies in the Place. As you guess by my Habit that I am not a common Person, your Air persuades me that I have the Honour to speak to Ladies of Quality.—You are not mistaken (said the same Lady to me) this Lady my Companion is Madame M—— and I am the Wife of Mr. C——. You find (continu'd she) that our Names are pretty well known in Venice. Now, after having told you who we are, may we presume to ask who you are?' I gratify'd their Curiosity by pulling off my Mask, which I thought a Compliment due to their Quality. I had scarce told my Name, when the Lady who had not yet spoke one Word, said to me, 'You are not so much a Stranger among us as you imagine; your Name is very well known to me, and the late Madame Duhamel, your Aunt, whose[164] Husband was Commander in chief of our Forces, was one of my most intimate Friends, and she often told me how much she wish'd to see you here; but 'twas a Comfort she did not live to enjoy. She went with her Husband to Corfou, where he died not without Suspicion of Poison; for he was accus'd of being too great a Frenchman; and your Aunt who was return'd from Corfou with a Design
to go and spend the Remainder of her Days at Berlin, died as she was performing Quarentine in our Port. You caus'd her Body to be remov'd to Berlin, and you was one of her Heirs; and, tho' I don't mention it to make a Merit of it, I must tell you that you are oblig'd to me for it, since I pleaded for you against a very great number of M. Duhamel's Relations. My Love to your Aunt put me upon engaging Mr. M—— to espouse your Interest, which he promoted with Success, and prevail'd on the Senate to prefer the Recommendations of the King of Prussia and the Elector of Hanover who both protected you, before the Instances made by the French Ambassador in the Name of the King his Master, in favour of Messieurs Duhamel. I was infinitely pleas'd (continu'd Madame M——) that I had an Opportunity of serving you, and you may depend upon it that Mr. M—— and I shall ever interest our selves heartily for all that belong to our deceased Friend.' I made answer to Madame M—— in Terms suitable to her obliging Expressions, and crav'd her Permission to pay my respects to her at her House. She answer'd me very civilly that she would send her Husband to me, and that then she should be glad to see me at her House. Next Morning as I was ready to go out, and wait upon Mr. M—— to whom I thought I ow'd a Visit after the Civilities I had receiv'd from his Wife, I was told that he was at my Door and desir'd to speak with me. I went and receiv'd him, and found him every whit as polite as his Lady. He offer'd to shew me the Curiosities of Venice till his Wife was stirring. We went and saw several Churches, after which he conducted me to his House where I found Madame M—— who receiv'd me with all the Civility possible. She was a Woman who tho' forty Years of Age shew'd that she had
been a very beautiful Lady in her time. Madame C—— happen'd to be in her Company, with whom she had been the Day before in the Square of St. Mark. I never saw a more beautiful Lady, or that had a nobler Carriage. She was not yet twenty Years of Age, but had been marry'd five Years to a Man, who tho' the most ill-favour'd of his Sex had a most amiable Behaviour. I fell in love with Madame C—— as soon as ever I saw her, and when I beheld her Husband, I had Presumption enough to believe that my Application to the Lady would not be disagreeable. But I soon perceiv'd that she was not a Woman for my turn; she quickly depriv'd me of all Hopes of Success; and I no sooner saw those Hopes vanish'd, which are the only Support of Lovers, but I dropp'd my Amour. I had another in view which was attended with better Success: M. M—— carry'd me to a Country-House of his towards Padua, and I don't know where I was ever more agreeably entertain'd in my whole Life. 'Tis at these Country Seats one sees the Venetians in Perfection, who are quite another sort of People here than in the City; for here they put off that grave serious Air which they affect in Town, and are quite sociable, civil, courteous, and live with more splendor. As these Country-Houses are near one another, the Gentlemen to whom they belong visit each other very much, and are almost always together; but at Venice they live with more Restraint.
I am in some doubt whether I should reckon the Music of the Venetian Churches in the number of its Pleasures; but upon the whole, I think I ought, because certainly their Churches are frequented more to please the Ear, than for real Devotion. The Church of la Pieta which belongs to the Nuns who know no other Father but Love, is most frequented. These Nuns are enter'd very young, and are taught
Music, and to play on all sorts of Instruments, in which some of 'em are excellent Performers. Apollonia actually passes for the finest Singer, and Anna-Maria's for the first Violin in Italy. The Concourse of People to this Church on Sundays and Holidays is extraordinary. 'Tis the Rendezvous of all the Coquettes in Venice, and such as are fond of Intrigues have here both their Hands and Hearts full. Not many Days after my Arrival in this City I was at this very Church, where was a vast Audience, and the finest of Music. As I was going out, a Woman who hid her Face accosted me, saying, there was a Lady in a Gondola who desir'd to speak with me. Tho' this smelt strong of an Adventure, which I was never very fond of, I however went along with the Woman; and really, not above ten Paces from the Spot I found a Gondola, in which was a Lady whom I knew to be the Daughter of the unfortunate Baron de H—— of whose tragical Catastrophe you have heard. I own it mov'd my Compassion, as well as Sorrow, to see before my Eyes a young Lady of Rank in a strange Country and in such a Situation as made me surmise that she was in a bad Way. But it even touch'd me to the quick, when after having made her Apology to me for having sent for me, she said to me with a Voice interrupted with Sighs, 'For God's sake tell me what's become of my poor Father; is he still living? He has been the Cause of his own Unhappiness and mine too; he has plung'd me into an Abyss of Woe, but he is still my Father: Nothing can make me forget the Duty I owe him; I should be glad even to lay down my Life to relieve his Misfortunes.' I told her that I had not been at Berlin for a long time; that I had not kept up a Correspondence there with any body, and that consequently I could not tell her any News of her Father. I knew at the same time that he died in
Prison at Spandaw; but I was loth to be the Messenger of such bad News to a Person who seem'd to be already too much afflicted. 'I did not know you were at Venice (reply'd Madamoiselle de H——) or I should have sought an Opportunity to speak with you. I saw you at the Church of la Pieta, and the sight of you call'd my Misfortunes fresh to my Memory, as well as the sad Catastrophe of your old Friend my Father. I could not refrain shedding Tears, and the Remembrance of my Disgrace has eclips'd the Pleasure I take in seeing you.' I endeavour'd to assuage her Grief, and to calm her ruffled Soul; and therefore I went with her to her House, and when I saw her a little compos'd I ask'd her questions about her state of Life, and desir'd her to tell me how she had pass'd her time since she left Berlin. She answer'd me in every Point with a great deal of Honesty and Simplicity. 'After the Execution of that Sentence (said she) which degraded my Father from Nobility and Honour, and set him on a level with the basest Scoundrels, I had not the Courage to stay at Berlin. I went to H—— to find out Madame de B—— my Aunt from whom I hoped to meet with Protection; but I soon experienc'd that the Unfortunate have no Relations. My Aunt would not give me House-room, and sent a Confident of her's to tell me that she advis'd me to be gone from H—— or else to change my Name and not to call me her Cousin, unless I had a Desire to be confin'd. But alas! I would then have taken it as a Favour if my Aunt had shut me up; for I was in extreme Want, and knew not what would become of me. I lodg'd at an Inn where I got my Living by making of Linnen and Washing, when a good likely young Man came and took up his Quarters in the very same House, who immediately struck up an Acquaintance with me. I know not what he saw
in me to charm him, for I did nothing but cry all the day long. Mean time he talk'd to me of Love, and gave me so many Demonstrations of his flaming Passion that I found he was really smitten with me. To tell you the whole Truth, I was not long insensible of the same Passion. He even offer'd to marry me, which, since he would not be deny'd, I consented to. He told me that he was an Officer in the Emperor's Service, and a Native of Lubeck, and that he was come hither to take possession of an Estate fallen to him by Inheritance. I took what he said to be true because he was handsomely equipp'd, and had his Pockets well lin'd. In short, I was smitten with him, and thought I should be very happy in taking him for my Husband. Not many Days after our Marriage, he told me that he must needs set out for Hungary where the Regiment was quarter'd, whereof he said he was a Lieutenant, and that consequently I must make ready to go with him.—We set out from H—— and arriv'd happily at Vienna. It was in that very City that my Husband, who till then behav'd well towards me, and whose Conduct had been very regular, chang'd all on a sudden to the reverse. He spent the whole Day in Gaming-Houses, and the Night in Debauchery. Sometimes he never once came home for four or five Days together, and when he did, 'twas only to insult me, and to upbraid me with the misfortune of my Father, which I discover'd to him before Marriage, for fear he should reproach me one time or other with having deceiv'd him. He told me that I was a Disgrace to him, that his Colonel had broke him for marrying me, and that I was the Author of his Ruin. I try'd to pacify him, and spar'd no Pains nor Complaisance for it, but all to no purpose. I heard that my Husband was desperately in love with a common
Prostitute, that he had ruin'd himself for her sake; and in a little time he was oblig'd to sell the very Clothes off his back. He had contracted Debts, and expecting every day to be arrested by his Creditors, he left Vienna privately, abandoning me to the most dreadful Despair. 'Twas eight Months before I heard a Word of him. At last I came to know that he was here at Venice, and I resolv'd to find him out. Madame the Countess of W—— who had generously assisted me, fitted me out for the Journey, but when I came hither I did not find my Husband, who I heard was at Padua. I was making my self ready to follow him thither, when I heard the News that he was kill'd by a Student with whom he had a Quarrel at Gaming. His Death fill'd up the Measure of my Sorrow. I found my self quite a Stranger here without Friends or Subsistence. I endeavour'd, but in vain, to get my Living by my Labour, as I had done at H—— but I found so little to do that 'twas impossible for me to hold out long; and I must undoubtedly have sunk under my Misery if it had not been for the noble D—— who out of Pity to my Condition reliev'd me six Years ago by granting me a Pension: But how happy should I be if I could live without it, and retire for ever to some religious Foundation!' Here the unfortunate H—— concluded her Narrative. I sifted her Sentiments about Religion: I knew she had been educated in the Lutheran, but she express'd her Inclination to embrace the Catholic Religion, and also to turn Nun. I promis'd to serve her all that lay in my power, and that same Evening I spoke to Madame M—— who promis'd me to enter her into Orders as soon as she was turn'd Catholic. A Jesuit who has had the tutoring of her for near a Month gives us Hopes that she will instantly be qualify'd to take the Veil. She seems to
me to be very eager for it. A few days ago I acquainted her with her Father's Death, with which she seem'd very much affected, but at the same time she express'd her Submission to the Decrees of Providence, and told me her Misfortunes with so much Resignation, that I have Reason to think she will be very happy in the Retirement which she is about to embrace. If this be the Case, I shall think my self very fortunate in having contributed by my Advice to her Tranquillity. Heaven grant her Prayers may prevail that I my self may put those Lessons in practice which I have taught her, as to the Necessity of Conversion.
Pardon me, Sir, this long Digression. As you knew the unfortunate H—— in his Prosperity, and as you are also inform'd of his Disgrace, I thought you would not be sorry to hear of the Fate of his Daughter. I now resume my Remarks on Venice.
Two Days ago I went to see the Scuola St. Rocco, which are Rooms where the Fraternities of that Saint meet, in which are Pictures done by the greatest Masters, particularly one in the great Room below, which is the Picture of the Annunciation done by Tintoret, a Piece highly esteem'd. This Picture is, without Contradiction, one of the finest and most affecting Paintings at Venice, because of the lively Expressions of Surprise, Admiration, and Joy which appear in the Virgin's Face. She is sitting in her Chamber, which the skilful Painter has represented as a plain mean Room in some Disorder with old and worn out Furniture. Upon the grand Stair-case there's another Picture representing the Annunciation in like manner, which is done by Titian, and is not one of the worst of his Performances. The upper Rooms are adorn'd with several Pictures done by Tintoret, in which he has described our Lord's Passion. Our Saviour appearing before Pilate is an admirable Piece; 'tis really moving to see the Modesty and Serenity
of his Countenance. A second Picture represents our Lord carrying his Cross. In a third, we see him fasten'd on it, and expiring for the Salvation of Mankind. These are invaluable Pieces, and are reckon'd the compleatest that ever Tintoret painted.
I have also been to see the chief Palaces, which lie for the most part on the great Canal, and that call'd Reggio. They are very magnificent, but they are generally so like one another that he who has seen one may say he has seen them all. They have little Court-Yards, less Gardens, and no Stables. Nothing goes to form a Palace at Venice but the main Body of the Building, a great Salon in the middle, and Apartments on the Right and Left; and setting aside the Marble, there are Palaces as magnificent elsewhere which have only the name of a House.
The Square of St. Mark is the ordinary Rendezvous of all the Gentry at Venice. There are Nobles who keep their constant Circuits here as it were, and who never stir from the Place but to Bed, for they pass their whole Time in Gaming at the Coffee-Houses, or in the Peruke-Makers Shops. The number of their Nobles is not limited; and any body for paying down 100000 Ducats may purchase Nobility. These Gentlemen compliment each other with the Title of Excellency, and 'tis what they all challenge from Foreigners. Mean time, some of those Excellencies go to the Shambles, and to the Fish-Market, and carry home their Meat or their Fish under their Robes, and some are so very poor that they go a begging. This Title is so very common here that I had much ado to hinder a Lackey whom I hired from giving it to me. Tho' I told him that I was by no means Excellent, he made me answer that he knew full well what Obligations were due to my Excellency, and that he would not be thought to be wanting in Respect to my Excellency. A
Frenchman lately come from Constantinople to whom I made my Complaints, how much this Title was prophan'd, assur'd me that the Venetians were still more lavish of it out of Venice, so that he heard the very Grooms belonging to the Baillo of the Republic at Constantinople, compliment one another with the Title of Excellency.
Among the Venetian Excellencies there are also Petits-Maitres who are known by their Doublets lin'd with Scarlet, their fine white Perukes, by their fantastical Step, and that Air of lolling which they give themselves in their Gondola's, which are much smaller and nimbler than the common sort. These Petits-Maitres are great Beaus, and have commonly more than one Mistress at a time, and indeed there are few Nobles but have one at least. These Creatures, excepting the little Liberty they enjoy, are as happy as Sultana's. Their Lovers treat them like Princesses, and the Venetians in general pay great respect to the whole Sex. I have seen Faustina the famous Singer, and Stringuetta the noted Courtezan come mask'd upon the Square of St. Mark, leaning on the Shoulders of Noblemen, and every Man paying them as much Obeisance as if they had been Ladies of great Importance. The same day that they appear'd on the Square there happen'd to be a Skirmish between two Women mask'd that were Rivals, who, as soon as they knew one another, fell out, went to Cuffs, tore off each other's Masks, and at last Knives were drawn, with which they cut one another so deeply that one of 'em was left dead on the Spot.
I now think it high time to finish my Letter which is already very long, and perhaps too full of Trifles. I have told you every Thing that came uppermost in my Mind, so that you have a perfect
Farrago, which however is a Proof of the Pleasure I take in corresponding with you.
