LETTER XLV.
SIR,Liege, June 28, 1732.
From Brussels I went to Ghent, the Capital City of the County of Flanders, and a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbishop of Mechlin. The Scheld passes thro’ the City, which, with its Suburbs, is divided into several Islands by the Lys, and a great Number of Canals. ’Tis very large in Circumference, insomuch, that ’tis reported, the Emperor Charles V. us’d to say, That he could put Paris into his Gand[86]. This might be true enough then, but now Ghent might
easily be contained in Paris, because, like all the Towns in the Netherlands, it is decay’d, and not so large, nor so powerful, as it was formerly. The Citizens of Ghent were heretofore much disposed to rebel; but the most notable Revolt they ever made, was from Charles V. for which they were severely punished by that Emperor; who, forgetting that he was their Countryman by Birth, no sooner heard of their Revolt, but he passed through France to chastise the Rebels. Accordingly, he caused twenty-five of the principal Burghers to be put to Death, banished a greater Number, confiscated the Estates of the Ring-leaders, took away their Artillery, their Arms, and their Privileges; condemned them to pay a Fine of above one Million two hundred thousand Crowns, and built a Citadel; by which Means Ghent became, as it were, a wide Desert, many of its Inhabitants retiring to other Towns.
The Fortifications of Ghent consist of great Outworks, a Counterscarp, broad Ditches and good Ramparts. Its Bulk, Situation and Wealth, render it very considerable; but it takes up too much Ground to be a good Place: Nevertheless, I have heard that King William of England, used to say, that in a Time of War, it was much more convenient for the Allies to keep Ghent than Brussels.
I have done nothing at Ghent but sauntered about the Streets. I have been to see all the Churches, of which there is a great Number, and some of them very fine; but have made no Acquaintance, except with the Baron de Stein, Colonel of a Regiment of the Infante of Portugal, a Gentleman of good Extraction and Merit; who is married to Mademoiselle de Watteville, formerly Lady of the Bed-chamber to the Archduchess, Governess of the Netherlands. She is a Lady worthy to be
respected, and is esteemed by all Ghent. What Amusements there are in this Town, I cannot say; but if I am not deceived in Appearances, there are no Pleasures here but what must be insipid.
I went in the Bark along the Canal from Ghent to Bruges, which is the most commodious and agreeable way of Travelling in the World. I was in a good Room, and with Company very happily mix’d. At Noon we had a Dinner served up, as if it had been at the best Victualling-house at Brussels; where, by the way, there are excellent Inns. ’Tis a Rule in this Bark, for the Women to drink at Free-cost, the Men paying for the Wine. This cuts pretty deep into the Reckoning; for there is generally a good Number of Women on Board; and the Flemish Women are, for most part, good Topers of the Juice of the Grape.
Bruges in the County of Flanders stands in a great Plain, three Leagues from the Sea, upon the Canal of Reye; which being divided into several navigable Streams, forms several Islands in this City. Another Canal goes to Ostend, which is but three Leagues off, and carries Ships to Bruges of four hundred Tons. ’Tis this that keeps up the Trade here, tho’ ’tis considerably diminished, since many of the Merchants went to settle at Antwerp, and in Holland; notwithstanding which, Bruges is still one of the biggest and best Cities in Flanders. Here are magnificent Structures, both sacred and profane. The Streets are broad, strait and open, with several large Squares, and there’s no want of Inhabitants; but they know no Pleasure besides Eating and Drinking. ’Tis a hard matter for a Foreigner to get acquainted with ’em; for the Flemings are naturally unsociable, and it seems as if they were afraid to converse with a German. When the Count de Lalaing, formerly
the Viscount of Audenarde, is in this City, of which he is Governor, one is sure of being welcome at his House; but, unlucky for me, he happened to be at Brussels. And, as I don’t care to be in the Spleen, I went immediately to Ostend.
This City is famous for standing-out a Siege of three Years and three Months, again Albert Archduke of Austria; and for the India Company established here, by a Grant from the Emperor, which all Europe, however, agreed to get revoked. Ostend never was a Town of much Note for Pleasures. ’Tis small, but worth seeing. Its Port is the most considerable that belongs to the Emperor in Flanders. Its Situation renders it very strong: ’Tis encompass’d with two very deep Canals, has eight Bulwarks, and a large Ditch, several Bastions, and good Outworks, kept in due Repair. If the Ostend Company had continued, this would certainly have been a powerful City. The People began to build here apace, but now every Thing is at a Stand, both Buildings and Commerce: For Holland and England swallow-up all, and seem to have vowed the Ruin of the Netherlands.
Newport, to which I went by the Canal, is infinitely worse than Ostend. ’Tis a perfect Hole, but extremely well fortify’d, and can lay the Country under Water for several Leagues. The Air here is detestable, to such a Degree, that there’s never more than a Detachment in the Garison at one time, and yet a great many Men die here. The Inhabitants have a livid unwholesome Complexion. There is not a Soul to make a Visit to, and the Officers, who love Company, are sick to Death for want of knowing what to do with their Time.
As I left Newport, I returned to Ghent, and went to Courtray, over one of the finest Causeys,
with Trees on both Sides, that is in all Flanders. This, which is a pleasant little Town, drives a great Trade in Holland, and damask’d Linen, and its Inhabitants are wealthy. Its Fortifications are good for nothing; nevertheless, here is a Governor, a Commandant, and the whole Complement of Superior Officers. The first is M. de Devenish, an Irishman, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals. The second is M. Dickson, a Scotsman, who has a Colonel’s Commission, and is one of the civilest Men I know; his only Fault being, perhaps, that he is too liberal. He was very generous to me. There are five or six Persons of Quality in this Town, who, rather than expose themselves too much to Spleen, will not admit of Visits from the Towns-people. The Chapter of the Collegiate Church of St. Mary consists of true Priests, who rail at one another plentifully, and are never seen together but in the Chapter-house, where they have the Diversion of abusing each other heartily; so that I dare say, were they to embrace at High Mass, they would hug so lovingly, as to squeeze the Breath out of one another’s Bodies.
I proceeded over a fine Causey to Menin, one of the Barrier Towns belonging to the Emperor, with a Dutch Garison. The Count[87]de Nassau Laleck, Lieutenant-General, and Colonel of a Regiment of Horse in the Dutch Service, is Governor of it. To qualify himself for this Government, he must (like all the Governors or Commandants of the Barrier Towns) have taken an Oath of Fidelity to the Archduchess, to the Emperor, and also to the States General his Masters. But I can’t imagine how he would be able to reconcile such Swearing to his Conscience, in case a War
should break out between the Emperor and Holland. I think this Oath may be put upon a Par with that which is taken by the Captain of the Bucentaur at Venice, when he carries that Vessel out to Sea, to bring her back into Port, be the Weather what it will. Menin is one of the most regular Fortifications in Flanders. M. de Vauban, by whom they were directed, thought them his Master-piece. Yet some will have it, that the Works are too close together, and too small. This Place was very ill defended in the last War, insomuch, that I heard some Officers say, there was no Breach made in it. The French Commandant, when he surrendered it to the Duke of Marlborough, having demanded Leave to march out of the Breach, was answered, That ’twas not adviseable for him to do it, unless he had Ladders; upon which he chose, with his Garison, to march out at the Gate. There’s no Company at Menin, but Mademoiselle de Laleck, and some Officers Wives, who are Persons of very great Merit.
Lisle, the Capital of French Flanders, is as gay, populous and trading a City, as the Towns of Imperial Flanders are declining. ’Tis a large, fine, and well fortified City. The Streets are broad and well-pav’d. It has two magnificent Squares, and Edifices both sacred and profane, which discover its Riches. There’s a new Town-house building here, in a bad Situation; but when finish’d, will be grand and magnificent. The Duke de Bousslers, whose Father acquir’d great Glory by his vigorous Defence of Lisle, is Governor of this City, and of French Flanders. He is a fine handsome young Nobleman, tho’ of an under Size. He applies very much to the Military Science, and gives very great Hopes of his Proficiency in that Calling. The Officers cry him up very much; and I heard every body speak
well of him. He makes a noble Appearance, and lives generously. I found him extremely civil and respectful to every body, with a sweet and amiable Temper, far from the Presumption to which Youth are but too liable; in a Word, such a one, that a Friend to France would wish all her young Noblemen were like to him.
There are several good Houses in Lisle, particularly that of Madame de Mouchi, heretofore Lady of the Bed-chamber, and Favourite of the late Duchess of Berry; the Houses of the Commandant of the Town, and the Citadel, and of the Intendant; and in all these Houses there’s abundance of good Company. The French Officers make a much better Appearance than ours do, and as soon as the Service is over, they all treat one another upon a Par. Here is a good Comedy, and a tolerable Theatre for it. In Winter there are a great many Balls, and a true Relish of good Living here; such as eating in Company, Gaming, and Other Diversions.
You know that Lewis XIV. took Lisle from the Spaniards. The Allies retook it in 1708, after a long Siege; which, when one considers the Number of Princes and great Noblemen who were present at it, such as the King of Poland, the Electoral Prince of Hanover, now the King of Great Britain, and the late Landgrave of Hesse Cassel, puts one in Mind of the Siege of Troy. Lisle was restored by the Treaty of Utrecht to France, which Crown, in Exchange for it, yielded Ypres and its Chatellany to the Emperor.
Commerce flourishes mightily in this City, and there’s a Concourse to it from all Imperial Flanders, because of the Profit to be made by the Mint. Since the Peace, the City has been very much augmented and embellished; so that there are few Towns that outstrip it. I was very much
delighted here, and if my Affairs had not call’d me back to Germany, I should have stay’d here some time longer.
I return’d again thro’ Ghent, and from thence went to Antwerp, surnam’d the Trading; for you must know, that all the Towns in the Low Countries have Surnames: Thus, Brussels is called the Noble, Ghent the Great, Louvain the Wise, Mechlin the Genteel, Namur the Strong; and so of the rest.
Antwerp, anciently one of the finest and richest Cities in Europe, stands in a pleasant fruitful Plain on the Right Side of the Scheld. Our Lady’s Church, which is the Cathedral, is a very great Building, that is worth seeing, for the magnificent Pictures with which ’tis adorned. The Town-house and the Jesuits Church are worthy of a Traveller’s Attention. This Church was formerly very magnificent, but was consumed by Lightening in 1718; when the Reverend Fathers the Jesuits lost a real Treasure in Pictures. They rebuilt it, but with more Frugality than their Predecessors. The fine Pictures done by Rubens, and two very magnificent Chapels, are still to be seen.
The Foundation of Antwerp, its Citadel, built by the famous Duke of Alva, and all the Calamities which this City suffered during the Civil Wars for Religion, are Things too well known for me to mention them.
Antwerp is very much fallen from what it was once. ’Twas formerly a City of the greatest Trade in Europe; but Amsterdam is risen upon its Ruins; for Towns, like all other Things, must submit to Fate. Antwerp is incomparably better situate than Amsterdam, and the largest Vessels came to it heretofore by the Scheld; but this River is now choak’d up by Vessels full of Stones, and other Things, sunk there on Purpose by the
Dutch, those charitable Neighbours of the Netherlands. Notwithstanding its Decay of Trade, there are Families here extremely rich. All its wealthy Citizens keep magnificent Equipages, wear lac’d and embroider’d Cloaths, and their Wives dress like Princesses. They all go to the Assembly, which begins at an early Hour, where they play at Quadrille, and then every one goes Home to Supper. There’s a charming Walk upon the Ramparts, but no Company, besides the Priests, who pretend there to con their Breviary. There is one of the prettiest Theatres that is to be seen out of Italy, but no Play. So that, take it all together, you may perceive this is not a Place of the greatest Entertainment.
The Marquis de Rubi, one of the Emperor’s Major-Generals, is Governor of Antwerp. He should, by Right, live in the Citadel or Castle; but as his House there is very much run to Ruin, he has one in the City, where he appears with Dignity. He is a Catalan, and was Viceroy of[88]Sardinia, when the Spaniards made a Conquest of that Kingdom in the Time of Cardinal Alberoni.
This, Sir, is all that I have to say to you of Antwerp; from whence I went to Mechlin, a pretty Town, where the Metropolitan Church is worth seeing. The Cardinal de Bossu, Brother of the Prince de Chimay, is its Archbishop, and the only one in the Netherlands, belonging to the House of Austria. You know, that at Mechlin is held the Sovereign Council or Parliament, which is the Reason one sees such a Swarm of Attornies and Solicitors here, and hears so many
of the Quirks of the Law. There are few People of Quality here, and the Assemblies are not very inviting.
The Causey between Mechlin and Louvain is a new Piece of Work. Before this was cast up, the People of Mechlin were obliged, in the Winter-time, to go thro’ Brussels, in order to avoid the bad Roads, which was a great Way about.
Louvain is a great City, where one sees a vast Number of Students, Doctors, Priests and Friers. But none of these being Companions for me, I only pass’d quite thro’ the Town; for I had seen the Churches before; and I was not a Stranger to the turbulent Spirit of the Inhabitants, who are the most unpolish’d of all the Netherlands. One of the grand Privileges of the University of Louvain, is a Nomination to a great Number of Benefices; about which they are actually at Law with several Bishops of the Netherlands, who pretend to dispute their said Right; on Pretence, that the University prefers Men to Livings, of whose Persons or Sentiments they have no Knowledge. Mr. Strickland, by Birth an Englishman, and Bishop of Namur, is to go on the Part of the Bishops, to get this Affair determined at Rome. But I’ll lay a Wager, that he will do nothing more than see the Datary and the Rota with a round Sum of Money.
There’s a very good Pavement from Louvain to Tirlemont, which is a Town in a Manner abandoned, and where I know of nothing remarkable; so that I brush’d thro’ it, and went and lay at Maestricht, one of the best and strongest Places in Europe, belonging to the Dutch; to whom Spain abandoned it by the Peace of Munster. The French Army took it in 1673, in thirteen Days, and the Allies retook it in fifty. The Dutch Propriety in it was recogniz’d by the Peace
of Nimeguen, and they maintain a numerous Garison in it. The Governor of it is Prince William of Hesse Cassel, Brother to the King of Sweden; but since the Death of the Landgrave of Hesse, that Prince being vested with the Regency of the said Landgraviate, resides no longer at Maestricht; which is a Loss to this Town, for he kept a fine Court there, and liv’d with all the Dignity answerable to his high Birth. The Person who commands in the Place during his Absence, is the Brigadier[89] d’Amerongen.
The Walks about Maestricht, especially those on the Ramparts, are charming; for there’s no want of good Company, and ’tis the genteelest of all the Garisons that belong to the Dutch. ’Tis a very pretty Town, with beautiful Squares, and the Streets are very open. The Catholics, as well as Protestants, have Churches here, and keep up that Union which is remarkable in all the Towns of Holland. The Maese passes thro’ this Town, and over it there’s a Stone Bridge; from which, I have been assured for a Truth, the late Marshal d’Auverquerque, when a young Man, leaped his Horse into the River, to convince Mademoiselle de Feldtbruck, how sincerely he loved her. It seems he was one Day making his Vows and Protestations to her at her Coach-Door, when she told him, That she looked upon all he said to be Flams, and that she would lay him a Wager, he did not love her enough to leap his Horse over into the River. He accepted the Wager, and won it at the Risque of his Life. He was so fortunate as to keep his Footing in the Stirrups, and his Horse was so good as to wade with him to the
Shore. But after he had taken this dangerous Leap, he reflected on the capricious Temper of his Mistress; and broke off his Courtship with the young Lady; which, I think, was the least she deserved.
I stay’d a few Days at Maestricht, which City put me in Mind of my Father, who died there in the Service of the Elector Frederic of Brandenbourg. I have been to shed a few Tears at his Tomb in the new Church, which is the only Devoir I could pay to his Memory; the Religion wherein he died, forbidding me to put up the Prayers of the Church for him.
The City of Liege is about five Leagues from Maestricht. A Vessel goes thither, and returns every Day. But to go against the Stream of a River so rapid as the Maese, and which in the Summer-time often wants Water, is what I shall never advise any Friend of mine.
The Generality of the Antiquarians will have it, that Liege was built by that Ambiorix King of the Eburons, a great Enemy of the Romans who cut in Pieces one of their Legions, commanded by two of Cæsar’s Lieutenants; for which Affront, Cæsar afterwards took a sweet Revenge. But be this as it will, ’tis certain that Liege is a very ancient City. ’Tis large and very populous, and situate in a pleasant Valley, encompassed with fine Hills and Dales; wherein there are Meadows, thro’ which there run several Rivulets, that fall into the Maese, which passes thro’ the City, and has a Bridge over it of Stone. The Cathedral, dedicated to St. Lambert, is famous for its Chapter, which consists of Princes, Cardinals, and Persons of the first Quality; in which Number are included some of but ordinary Extraction, who become Lords of Manors, or Tressonciers, (the Title that the Canons assume) by means of the Doctor’s
Degree. But this Chapter, let it be as venerable as it will, comes very far short of being as well constituted as those of Germany.
The Palace of the Prince and Bishop of Liege is ancient. It has large Rooms, but is so pent up by little Streets, that the Apartments are not airy enough[90]. The present Bishop is the last Survivor of the Family of Berg. He was chosen against powerful Competitors, who were the Elector of Cologne, and the Cardinal of Saxe Zeits; but he had the good Luck to be chose when himself did not expect it. Whether the Chapter is pleased with him, I know not; but the Populace are very fond of him. He governs with Moderation and Wisdom. He is very just, rarely pardons a Crime, is of very difficult Access, but in other respects good; very regular in his Affairs, and abounding in Charities; which, perhaps, are not always distributed according to his Intention. He had for a long time a Capuchin to be Confessor, who directed every Thing; but the good Father was accused of loving his Brothers too well, and of being accessary to their Breach of the Vow of Poverty. This Capuchin Minister died without being lamented for any thing else, by that Prince’s Domestics. He is succeeded in his Post of Confessor, by another Capuchin; but his Authority is more limited.
The Prince leads a very private Life, and is eight Months in the Year at Serai, a Country House a small League from Liege, on the Banks of the Maese, towards Huy, where he has seldom any body with him but his Confessor, the Captain of his Guards, and a Gentleman of his Bed-chamber. His Table is not so sumptuous as ’tis elegant; his Liveries are very modest, his Guards
but few, and cloath’d exactly alike. He has rais’d a Regiment of Guards, of which the Count de Beaufort, Brother to the Governor of Charleroy, is the Colonel. This Regiment is lodged in the old Caserns of the Citadel, which was formerly very considerable, but has been intirely ruin’d and demolish’d, since it was besieg’d and taken by my Lord Marlborough. ’Twas also stipulated in the Treaty of Peace, that the Citadel of Liege shall not be rebuilt.
You know, that the Episcopal See of Liege was formerly at Tongres; of which, they say, that Maternus, sent by St. Peter, was the first Bishop. The See was transferr’d by his Successors, first to Maestricht, and then to Liege.
There are some magnificent Churches in this City, where those that love Paintings will be delighted. The Churches in general are beautiful, and have for most part been repaired within these few Years. St. Paul’s Church here would be admir’d, even in Rome itself. Divine Service is perform’d in it with very great Regularity; and ’tis impossible not to be edify’d by it, the Roman Ritual being observed in every Particular.
The Pleasures of Liege consist very much in Drinking, for there’s little Society among the Women; and as for the Men, they are generally at the Tavern, where there are good Bar and Burgundy Wines, and a sort of Beer still better, neither of which being very dear, the People of Liege go with Joy to the Bottle; but being, at best, Men of warm Brains, great Talkers, Railers and Backbiters, their Entertainments and Assemblies commonly end like the Italian Comedies. The Liegeois are accused of being insincere, and are called, the Italians of the Netherlands. They drive a great Trade, with as little Honesty as elsewhere. They are Drunkards, quarrelsome, and so vindictive,
that they think any sort of Revenge sweet. They love Law-suits and Chicanery, to such a Degree, that the Country of Liege alone furnishes the Chamber of Wetzlar with more Business than all the Empire. I confess, that of all the People I ever conversed with, there are none for whom I have less Esteem, and none, whose Society I shall always more avoid; tho’ I shall ever esteem the honest Folks there, of whom, I am persuaded, there are some: But I enter not into Particulars, I speak only of the Generality of the Liegeois, who appeared to me such as I have describ’d them; and if I wrong them, I ask their Pardon. Another Man may conceive what Idea of them he pleases, and for my own part, I shall be overjoy’d to hear of any Merit found among them.
The Country of Liege is fruitful, and abounding with all Things, except Wine and Oil, which they must have from Foreigners. Here are Mines of Iron and Lead, Quarries of Marble, and a sort of Mineral, which is an Earth proper to burn, and their common Fuel; but a Fuel very disagreeable, because of its nasty Smell, which is infinitely worse than the English Coal, and renders Liege, in the Winter-time, as black and as sooty as London.
The Bishop is Lord of the whole Country: He has, however, his States, who are not always of the Prince’s Opinion. In this Country are reckon’d fifty Baronies, a great Number of Abbies, above twenty wall’d Towns, and near fifteen hundred Villages. This Principality is subject to the Empire.
I reckon to set out hence To-morrow, and to go and lie at Spa, where I hope to be merry. Be you the same, and believe me to be always Yours, &c.
