The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume II / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia Thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &c. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER XLVII.

SIR,Bonn, July 30, 1732.

As I came to Bonn, two Days before the Return of the Court, I had all that time to walk about. This City stands upon the Rhine, five Leagues from Cologne; from whence one travels to it thro’ one of the finest Roads in the World, well-pav’d and planted with Trees, over a large fruitful Plain, encompassed with Hills laden with Vines and Woods. This is a City so very ancient, that Florus tells us ’twas founded by Drusus. The Learned say, ’tis

the Ara Ubiorum of the Ancients, mention’d by Tacitus. Be this as it will, Bonn has not the least Monument that favours of the Roman Magnificence; is now but a little City, and of no Consequence at all, when the Court is not there. ’Twas heretofore very well fortify’d, and has sustained several Sieges, particularly one in 1689, by Frederic Elector of Brandenbourg, afterwards King of Prussia, who besieged it at the Head of his own Troops, and those of Munster and Holland; and lost a great many Men before it. His tall Musqueteers, all French Gentlemen and Protestants, distinguished themselves in an extraordinary manner; for, being just come out of France, with a Spirit of Hatred and Revenge against Lewis XIV. who, by repealing the Edict of Nantes, had forced them to abandon their Country, they performed such valiant Feats as were surprising, and were never weary of Fighting; every Frenchman that was a Catholic, being odious to them. St. Bonnet, their commanding Officer, a Man of Birth and Bravery, was killed as he was storming the Breach in Quality of Volunteer. This Officer thought it was an Injustice to him, that he was not appointed to command the Storm, and complained of it to the Elector; who told him, That he knew very well ’twas his Due, but that he thought it best to spare an Officer for whom he had a very great Esteem. St. Bonnet said, He did not think it would be for his Reputation to stay behind; and therefore he begged his Electoral Highness, by all Means, not to let him lose an Opportunity, which would undoubtedly procure him the Honour of convincing him of his Zeal. The Elector, by way of Reply, laid his absolute Commands on him, not to think of Fighting, but to continue always near his Person. St. Bonnet, ambitious of Glory, and, perhaps, hurry’d by his Fate, did not pay Obedience to the Elector’s

Commands, and was wounded by a Musquet Ball, of which he died two Days after, very much regretted by his Master, and the whole Army.

During this Siege, Bonn was reduced to a Heap of Rubbish, so that scarce a House was left standing; for the Baron d’Asfeldt, who commanded in the Place for Lewis XIV. made a very stout Defence; having sustained a Blockade of two Months, and twenty-seven Days open Trenches.

This City was again besieg’d in 1703, by my Lord Duke of Marlborough, who obliged the Marquis[93] d’Alegre, now Marshal of France, to capitulate at the End of eleven Days. It had been agreed by the Treaty of Utrecht, that the Dutch should keep Garison in Bonn; but the Elector Joseph Clement, not long after his Re-establishment, found Means to turn them out, and to be Master, as it was but reasonable, in his own Territories.

This same Prince, at his Return from France, found his capital City in a sorry Condition; a great many Houses destroy’d in the last Siege, were not yet rebuilt, and his own Palace lay in Ruins. But he set about the Repair of every thing; and in short, in a few Years, not only caused the old Houses to be rebuilt, but likewise erected a great many new ones, and built a Palace, which makes a grand Appearance, and would have been one of the most considerable Structures in Germany, if it had been brought to Perfection. The main Body of it, which is quite finish’d, has spacious Apartments, laid out with Art, richly adorn’d, and nobly furnish’d. The Tapestry with which the Chapel is hung upon grand Festivals, is worth seeing. It represents, in twelve great Pieces, the History of our Lord’s Nativity; which is wonderfully

well designed; and they may be reckon’d the Master-pieces of the Gobelins, where the Elector Joseph Clement, caused them to be made.

The principal Church of this City is a large Pile. They say it was founded by St. Helena, the Mother of the Emperor Constantine, to the Honour of the Holy Martyrs Cassius Florus, and Malusius, Soldiers of a Roman Legion. The Statue of that Princess, in yellow Copper, is placed at the Extremity of the Nave. The Saint is represented on her Knees, adoring the Cross, which she holds in her Left-hand. The Attitude of this Statue is so very noble, that it would certainly be esteemed, if it were in any Church of Rome.

Tho’ the Elector has all the Pleasures that can be desired at Bonn, yet he spends most of his Time at Bruhl, a House he caused to be built three Leagues out of Town; which, tho’ not very large, has very fine Apartments, adorned with every thing that is completely elegant and magnificent. The Elector is making some Gardens to it, which are like to be exceeding fine when finish’d.

The late Elector caused a Castle to be erected, about one Quarter of a League from Bonn, near a Village called Popelsdorff, which was built in Form of a Circus, and the Architecture of it was very singular; but the present Elector has been pleased to pull down a Part of it, and to employ the Materials in the Works at Bruhl. Near Popelsdorff, there’s a Nursery very well laid out, and kept in neat Order.

All these Houses are an Embellishment to the Suburbs of Bonn, which are moreover very agreeably situate. I was infinitely more delighted here, than at Cologne; for Bonn grows every Day finer, while the latter is decaying.

After having walk’d about here a great deal, expecting the Elector’s Return, this Prince is at

length arrived, together with Duke Ferdinand his Brother. He was welcom’d with the Discharge of the Cannon, and complimented by all the Persons of Distinction in Town, upon his Return, and upon his Advancement to the Grand Mastership of the Teutonic Order. Next Day there was a Gala at Court, when the Elector was dress’d in a Lay Habit, and wore a Sword; at which every body was surprized, because the Dress which is most affected by the Electors of Cologne, is like that of the Cardinals: But the Elector declared, he appeared in that Habit, as Grand Master of a Military Order.

His Electoral Highness has a just Title to be called Clement Augustus; for he has a stately Mien, is handsome, and of easy Access, and loves Pleasures, and particularly Hunting, as much as his Condition will admit of. His regular Life, and the Soundness of his Morals, may serve for an Example to many older Prelates, that are not so powerful, nor so nobly descended. He lived in his Infancy at Gratz, together with the Princes his three elder Brothers. The Elector, his Father, sent him afterwards, with Duke Philip his Brother, to Rome. The Marquis Santini, a Native of Lucca, a Commandeur of the Order of Malta, and a Lieutenant-General in the Service of Bavaria, was appointed for their Governor. Duke Philip was chose Bishop of Paderborn and Munster. The Gentleman who was very instrumental in his Election, was the Count de Plettenberg, now the Elector’s Prime Minister, who was then purely attach’d to that Prince, from the Devotion he always had for the House of Bavaria; and Duke Philip dying not long after his Election, the Count prevailed on those two Chapters, to chuse the young Duke Clement-Augustus for their Bishop. This Prince received his Bulls from the Pope’s own

Hand, at Rome; and afterwards went and took Possession of his Bishoprick. Not long after this, the Elector of Cologne, his Uncle, caused the young Prince to be appointed his Coadjutor: And upon the Death of Joseph Clement, Clement Augustus succeeded him also in the Bishoprick of Hildesheim. After the Death of the Duke of York, Ernest-Augustus, Duke of Brunswic-Lunenbourg, and Bishop of Osnabruck, he was chose for Successor to that Prince’s Episcopal See; and he is just now elected Grand Master of the Teutonic Order, by the unanimous Choice of the Knights, who have Commanderies in that Order.

The Enemies of the House of Bavaria murmur sadly to see half a Dozen of such great Benefices in the Possession of one Prince; What! say they, one Bishop to hold so many Bishopricks! there are few Instances of the like in all our Annals; ’tis not agreeable to the Canons of the Church. I am not so well versed in the Canon Law, as to determine, whether it be so or no; but I am not ignorant, that other Princes have held as many, and even more Benefices; and that ’tis for the Welfare and Interest of the Church, that the Elector should be a powerful Prince. Albert, Cardinal of Brandenbourg, was at the same time Archbishop of Mentz and Magdebourg. The Archduke Leopold held nine great[94] Benefices; but it was not said in his Time, that this was not agreeable to the Canons of the Church. Francis of Newbourg, the last Elector of Mentz, tho’ not a Priest, held five Bishopricks and Abbies, and yet there was no Outcry against him; why then should it be thought so strange, that the Elector should have six? This Prince is not inferior either in Birth or

Merit to the Archduke Leopold, and to the Prince of Newbourg.

Tho’ I am not a Pensioner to the Elector, I cannot help saying, that the Catholics, instead of clamouring against his Grandeur, ought, on the contrary, to do every thing they can to increase it: For the several Bishopricks held by this Elector, are so surrounded, and even indented, by the Dominions of the greatest Protestant Powers, that neither of them, separately, would be able to defend itself, in case it should be the Misfortune of Germany to be exposed to a religious War; whereas, being united under one Head, they are a formidable State.

But, say the Grumblers again, Bernhard de Galen was only Bishop of Munster, and yet he made Holland tremble. This is very true; but they don’t consider, that this Prelate was supported by all the Power of Lewis XIV., or else, as turbulent and as martial as he was, he would never have entertained a Thought of attacking the Seven Provinces. But admitting that he had been able to have made War singly with the Republic, what does that signify to the Time present? The Face of Europe, and particularly of Germany, is very much chang’d since his Death. The Protestants, who were then weak, are become powerful. They are the Masters of Commerce, which is the Fountain of Wealth; and they have Provinces, the best situate that can be, for receiving Foreign Succours. The Catholics, on the contrary, are exhausted, divided in Interest, and their Dominions impoverished by the Loss of Manufactures, and the Want of Trade. Therefore, I say it again, ’tis my Opinion, that instead of opposing the Grandeur of this Elector, they are obliged by Interest, to contribute their utmost to augment it,

in order to furnish Religion and the Church with an able Protector.

Pardon me, Sir, this long Plea, into which I was drawn by a religious Zeal, and for the just Cause of a Prince who challenges both Love and Respect. His Prime Minister is Ferdinand Count de Plettenberg-Nordkirchen, whose Family has been of distinguish’d Rank for a long time in Westphalia, and has given several Princes Bishops of Paderborn and Munster. It had formerly only the Title of a Barony, and M. de Plettenberg is the first Count of it. Soon after he had been promoted to this Dignity, the Emperor nominated him a Member of his Privy Council; and his Imperial and Catholic Majesty, has lately sent him the Order of the Golden Fleece, to reward him for having prevailed on the Elector to guarantee the Pragmatic Sanction: The Count de Plettenberg is adorned, therefore, with all the Dignities which a Lay Nobleman can be ambitious of in Germany: He is Count of the Empire, one of the Emperor’s Privy Counsellors, a Knight of the Golden Fleece, Grand Master of the Elector of Cologne’s Houshold, his Great Chamberlain, and his Prime Minister.

Nor was there ever any Person more deserving of those Employments, the Elector being partly obliged to him for his own[95] Grandeur. ’Twas this Minister, as I have already said, who caused this Prince to be chose, first, Bishop of Paderborn and Munster, and afterwards Bishop of Hildesheim

and Osnabruck: He also contributed very much to his being elected Coadjutor of Cologne; for had it not been for his Representations, the deceased Elector Joseph Clement would, perhaps, have never been prevailed on to accept of a Coadjutor, because he apprehended, that he should not live long after he had taken such a Step: But the Count de Plettenberg dispossessed him of that silly Surmise; and by that Means procured, for his Master, the second Electorate of the Empire. You will naturally imagine, Sir, that such great Services, performed by this Minister, for a Prince to whom he was not a Subject, could not but be attended with great Rewards. They have purchased him the Elector’s intire Confidence, who leaves all Affairs wholly to him. The Count uses his Authority with Moderation, and is civil and courteous. His Behaviour is noble and easy, and his Personage altogether as agreeable. He has none of those Airs of Superiority, which they commonly assume, who in their Grandeur are the Favourites of Fortune. Being advanced to be the First Minister of a great Prince, at an[96] Age when a Person would scarce presume to think himself fit to meddle with State Affairs, he makes Labour itself a Pleasure, and has nothing of that mysterious haughty Air, which only serves to alienate Peoples Hearts; for he is easy of Access, hears attentively those who speak to him, and gives clear Answers without affecting Evasions or Delays. He is generous, liberal and beneficent, vigilant, laborious, and in Love with Business. He rises at Five o’Clock every Day, and employs the Morning, in Business. After this, he keeps a magnificent Table, where, in the midst of an Abundance and Delicacy, there is that Frugality

observed, which is so laudable in those who have Places. After Dinner, he goes into his Closet, where he gives Audience to the Subaltern Ministers, leaving it to the Countess his Spouse, to do the Honours of his House, which is always open to Persons of Distinction and Merit. As he was born to one of the greatest Estates in Germany, so he is one of those Noblemen who live with the greatest Magnificence. His Expences are considerable. His House is richly furnished, and full of excellent Pictures by the most skilful Masters. Yet the Magnificence of his House in Town does not come near to that of his Seat at Nordkirchen, where every Thing is stately, and has the Air of a Prince. Mean time, the Count de Plettenberg adorns it every Day, and is actually making Gardens to it, which will not easily be match’d in Germany. This Minister has an only Son at the University of Leyden, a Youth of great Hopes, who is already actually an Aulic Counsellor of the Emperor, his Chamberlain, and Master of the Horse[97] to the Elector of Cologne; and to whom the Count de Plettenberg, besides his great Estate, will leave his Steps to follow, and his Example to imitate.

There are many other Persons of good Birth and Merit at this Court. The Baron de Nothasst, Lieutenant-General, Chamberlain, and Captain of the Elector’s Guard. M. de Walhot de Goudenau, Marshal of the Court. The Baron de Schourss, and the Marquises Caponi and Trotti, the Elector’s Chamberlains, are distinguished for their Civility to Foreigners. The Baron de Sparr, by Birth a Swede, whose Father died in the Service of France, is Almoner to the Elector, and Dean of Bonn. His Electoral Highness has lately sent him to

Rome, to desire the Holy Father’s Approbation of his Election, as Grand Master of the Teutonic Order. M. de Sparr was Page to the late Elector of Bavaria, in which Post he behaved with an uncommon Sobriety, applied himself to the Study of several Languages, and learnt to speak them with the same Ease as his Mother-Tongue. He made great Progress in Music, History, and Geography, and neglected no Means to render himself one Day or other, useful to the State, and to his Prince. After he had served as Page, he entered into the Military Service, and was made a Major in the Guards, and Chamberlain to the Elector of Bavaria. He proposed to make a Settlement, when God, whose Decrees are impenetrable, inspired him with a Resolution to go into Holy Orders. For this End, he quitted his Employments, and retired to a Seminary, which he only left to take up Priest’s Orders. He said his first Mass in the same Church, and on the same Day, that the Duke Theodore of Bavaria, Bishop of Ratisbon and Freisingen, said his. He went a Year ago to Rome, where he applied himself strenuously to the Study of the Canon Law. I knew him there, and found that he had the Esteem of every body. He has such Sentiments of Piety and Honour, that ’twere to be wished all our Clergy had the like; for then they would do more Service both to God, and the World.

The Elector’s Houshold is very numerous, but he has no more than two Regiments of Foot in his Electorate. The Baron de Nothasst is Commander in chief of those Troops, which, tho’ but a Handful, are sufficient for the Guard of Bonn, Rhinberck, and Keiserswaert, which were fortified heretofore, but have since the Peace been demolished.

In the Absence of the Elector, the Dean of the Chapter of Cologne governs with the Title of

Stadtholder. He is lodged in the Electoral Palace, and is served by the Elector’s Officers. During this Time, Bonn is a very melancholy Place. The Nobility and Gentry have their Assemblies at the House of the Countess de Fugger, where there are many more of the Fair Sex than ours, and the Canonesses of this City make a shining Figure. In such good Company I leave you, and am, &c.

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