LETTER XXX.
SIR,Rome, Dec. 5, 1730.
Tho’ I am heartily weary of entertaining you with Palaces, yet I can’t forbear giving you some Account of the Palace of the Prince Borghese. There’s an admirable Court-yard, and the Buildings round it are of an elegant and agreeable Contrivance. They are two Rows of Arches, one above the other, supported by ninety-six Columns of Granate, which form Corridors or Galleries, so that one may walk all round under Shelter. The Summer Apartment,
which is level with the Court, is fit to lodge a Monarch. ’Tis adorned with the choicest Paintings, and several of the Rooms have the Pleasure of Fountains in them always playing into Basons of Porphyry, or other precious Stones, of which one is a complete Piece of Work of massy Silver. The Furniture is not answerable to all this Magnificence, it being all as old as the Time of Paul V. who was of the Borghese Family, and tho’ no more than an Advocate at first, rais’d his Family from the mean State it was in at Sienna.
The Eldest of this Family has a Revenue of one hundred and sixteen thousand Crowns, and as he lives, is in no manner of Danger of becoming a Bankrupt. There is not a Family in Rome for which St. Peter has done more than this. The Prince’s Palace in the City is, as I have told you, a stately Building. There are fine Stables belonging to it, and there’s a second Palace fronting the first, which serves in common for the Domestics. Almost all the Houses of that Ward, which is one of the most populous in Rome, belong to this Prince, who has also several magnificent Country Houses, particularly that of Mondragone, near Frescati, built by Pope Paul V. and the Garden near the Gate Pinciano, made by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, one of that Pope’s Nephews. Before the Art of Gardening was introduc’d into Germany and France, the Gardens of Italy were reckon’d the finest in the World; but now-a-days ’tis otherwise, and unless (as is partly observ’d before) a Man is an Italian, and never pass’d the Alps, he will look with Contempt upon all the Gardens which the Romans call wonderful, charming, and astonishing. Nevertheless, I wou’d not have you think that I find no Beauty at all in their Gardens; I admire the continual Verdure of their Holyoaks, Firs, Pines and Laurels,
of which the Walks are form’d, tho’ they are gloomy and melancholy. I am amaz’d at the Magnificence of those who made those Gardens, and am pleas’d to find by what they have done, that they had the Taste of Noblemen, and that indeed they have not come short of the most excellent Works in their Time. But then I am sorry to see how little Care their Nephews take of these Things, how they suffer them to run to Ruin, and how little they know to make a good Use of the Estates left them by Providence. Thanks to the Foundations of Paul V. and Cardinal Scipio, the Houses and Gardens of the Prince Borghese are kept in better Order than those of the other Roman Nobility; yet for all this, they are not near so neat, and so well trimm’d, as the Gardens of France, Holland, and the Ultramontane Countries.
Mondragone stands upon an Eminence, and fronts the City. ’Tis a large Building, after the Model of the Palace of Monte-cavallo. The Apartments are spacious, but very sorrily furnish’d. The House at the Vineyard Pinciano is only magnificent on Account of the rare Sculptures with which ’tis adorn’d. ’Tis almost intirely cover’d on the Outside with stately Basso-relievos, of antique Marble, among which, ’tis a Pleasure to see Curtius on Horseback, throwing himself and Horse headlong into the Gulph, to deliver his Country from the Pestilence. The Statue of Belisarius, in the Attitude of a poor Man begging Alms, is so well made, that it raises Compassion. The Apartments, tho’ very ill furnish’d, are adorn’d with fine Pictures and Statues: Among the latter, you wou’d admire David holding his Sling, cut in Marble by Signior Bernini; the Groupe representing Daphne beginning to be metamorphos’d into a Laurel, at the Nick of Time
when the God of Day is going to embrace her; the ancient Statue of Seneca expiring in the Bath, which is of antique black Marble, representing the Philosopher up to the Middle of his Legs in a Cistern, or Vessel of African Stone, of modern Workmanship; the famous Statue of the Gladiator in a fighting Posture, the Work of Agasias the Ephesian, as the Greek Inscription denotes, which is at the Foot of the Statue; and in fine, the fair Hermaphrodite lying on a Matrass, all of Marble, of curious Workmanship. ’Tis said that this Statue was discover’d under the Foundations of the Front of the Church of Our Lady of Victoria, at the Time that Cardinal Scipio Borghese caus’d it to be erected; and really ’tis so curious a Piece, that it wou’d have been pity it had not been found, and brought again to Light. Were I to tell you of all the other Statues of the Prince Borghese, I shou’d never have done; for no King in the World has so many, or so fine; and he may boast of being the Owner of a Treasure that is inestimable.
I beg leave to take a present Farewel of every Thing relating to Buildings and Statues, and must acquaint you after what Manner Clement XII. has taken Possession of the Church of St. John de Lateran. This Ceremony was perform’d on Sunday the 19th of November last. The Pope went in the Morning with his usual Train from the Palace of Monte-Cavallo to that of the Vatican. At half an Hour past eighteen o’Clock, as they call it here, which with us is about half an Hour past One in the Afternoon, the Cavalcade began. Two Trumpets and four Light-Horsemen of the Guard led the Way, follow’d by several close Carriages cover’d with Tapestry embroider’d with the Arms of the Cardinals to whom they belong’d: Then came the Cardinals Mace-bearers, with their Maces of solid Silver. These were follow’d by
their Eminencies Gentlemen and Chaplains, by the Legate of Bologna, and the Roman Princes, all very sorrily mounted, and dress’d in black Coats and Cloaks. Four of the Pope’s Equerries in red Robes, his Holiness’s Taylor, and two Boys of the Wardrobe, in Robes of red Serge, went before two Portmanteaus trimm’d with red Velvet lac’d with Gold, which were carry’d on the Backs of Mules, in form of a Litter. The Grooms in Surtouts of red Serge, two and two, leading the Hackneys of the Tribute for Naples. The Pope’s Mules with Caparisons of red Velvet, with Lace and Fringe of Gold. Three Litters cover’d with red Velvet trimm’d with Gold Lace. The Master of the Pope’s Stables follow’d by two Prickers. At some Distance from thence came the Roman Nobility, walking without Distinction of Rank, all dress’d in black Coats and Mantles, with great Perukes, and their Hats off. Then came five of the Pope’s Mace-bearers, in long-sleev’d purple Gowns with black Velvet Lace, bearing their Maces of solid Silver, and follow’d by fourteen Drummers on Foot, in Surtouts of red Sattin with yellow and red Lace, bearing the Arms of the fourteen Quarters, or Wards of the City of Rome. Four of the Pope’s Trumpeters dress’d in Red with Gold Lace. The Valets of the Apostolical Chamber in red Robes. The Valets de Chambre call’d Camerieri extra muros. The Commissary and Fiscal of the Chamber in purple Robes. The Consistorial Advocates dress’d in Black. The Chaplains of the Commonalty in red Robes. The Valets of the Privy-chamber, and the Chamberlains of Honour in purple Robes. The four last carry’d on long Poles the four Cardinals Hats that are vacant. Then came forty Officers of the Senate and People of Rome, in Gowns of black Velvet, and
wearing Caps of the same Stuff: These were follow’d by the Clerks of the Chamber, the Auditors of the Rota, by the Master of the sacred Palace walking on the Left of the Dean, by the Auditors of the Rota, and by fourteen Marshals wearing white sattin Waistcoats under Gowns of purple Mohair, and Caps of black Velvet. Then came the Governor of Rome in his Camail and Rochet, the Princes del Soglio in black Coats and Cloaks, two Masters of the Ceremonies preceding the Pope’s Cross-bearer, who carry’d the Image of our Saviour turn’d towards the Holy Father, and walk’d between two Ushers bearing red Wands. Then the Holy Father appear’d in a Litter, like a Phaethon, lin’d with red Velvet embroider’d and lac’d with Gold, carry’d by two white Mules. Twenty-four Pages in an antique Dress of white Sattin, with a great many red and silver’d Ribbands, and black Cloaks lin’d with white and silver Mohair, and inrich’d with broad Gold Lace, encompass’d the Litter, as did the Footmen, the Scavengers and the Lance-presadoes, in scarlet Cloaths trimm’d with Gold. Immediately before the Litter the Captain of the hundred Swiss rode on Horseback, arm’d with a Cuirass of Iron, and his Helmet, at the Head of two Files of the hundred Swiss arm’d with Cuirasses like himself. His Holiness, who was in the Middle, wore a white Cassock. He had a Rochet on, and over it a Stole of red Sattin embroider’d with Gold, the Camail or short Mantle of red Velvet lin’d with Ermin, a Cap of the same Stuff, and over that a red Hat. Next to the Litter came the Almoner, the Gentleman Carver, the Secretary, and the Physician. At some small Distance follow’d fourteen Cardinals riding on Mules, who were dress’d in purple Habits, and had their Cowls flapp’d over their Eyes, with their red
Hats. They were follow’d by Signior Neri Corsini, a Nephew of Clement XII. at the Head of the Patriarchs, Archbishops, assistant Bishops, Apostolical Prothonotaries, the Auditor of the Chamber, the Treasurer, the Recorders of the Signature, and the other domestic Prelates, all clad in their Rochets and Camails of Purple. The March was clos’d by the Light-horse and Carbineers. The former had at their Head the Marquis Bartholomew Corsini, and the Duke Strozzi, (both Nephews of the Holy Father) who shone in gilt Cuirasses, and had over them Surtouts of red Grogram, or Mohair, embroider’d with Gold. They had on their Hats great Plumes of white Feathers, and their Pages carry’d their Spears and Helmets before them. The Light-horse had over their Cloaths, which are not of the same Pattern, Surtouts of red Cloth with Gold Lace; their Hats were adorn’d with large Plumes of white and red Feathers, and for their Arms they bore Lances, at the End of which are little Standards of red and blue Taffeta, such as I have seen carry’d by the Spahis.
All this Cavalcade pass’d thro’ the Capitol, the Court whereof was hung with Tapestry of red Damask lac’d with Gold Tinsel. The Marquis Frangipani, a Roman Senator, receiv’d the Pope, and presented him the Keys of the Capitol, after making a short Speech to him, which the Pope answer’d by a Benediction. At Campo-Vaccino, thro’ which the Train pass’d, the Pope found near the Farnese Vineyard a triumphal Arch, which the Duke of Parma, as Feudatory of the Holy See, is oblig’d to erect every Time that the new Popes take Possession of the Lateran Church. From the Capitol to the said Church, which is a very considerable Distance, the Streets were hung with Tapestry furnish’d by the Jews, who had brought out a great many moth-eaten Rags for the Purpose.
When the Pope alighted from his Litter, he was receiv’d at the Gate of St. John de Lateran, by the Cardinal Picus de Mirandola, Arch-priest of the said Church, who presented the Holy Father with the Cross to kiss, and being preceded by the Chapter of St. John de Lateran, conducted him to the Throne which was erected on the Right-side of the great Gate. The Pope being there seated, array’d himself in his Pontificalibus, and put on the Mitre, after which he admitted the Chapter to kiss his Foot. Then the Cardinal Arch-priest harangu’d him in the Name of the Chapter, and presented him the Keys of the Church, one of which was of Gold, the other of Silver, in a Silver gilt Bason adorn’d with Flowers. During this, the Cardinals put on their Copes and their Mitres. Then the Pope rising from his Throne, advanc’d towards the great Gate of the Church. The Cardinal Arch-priest perfum’d him with Incense thrice, and presented the Sprinkler to him, which the Pope dipp’d into the Holy Water, and therewith sprinkled the Clergy and Laity. Then he seated himself in his Procession Chair, and was carry’d thro’ the Body of the Church to the High Altar, the Members of the Chapter holding a Canopy over his Head. The Pope kneeling before the Holy Sacrament, made a short Prayer, and went and plac’d himself upon a Throne erected at the Bottom of the Choir facing the Entrance. There he receiv’d the usual Obeisance of the Cardinals, Bishops, Prelates and other Clergy, and then gave his solemn Benediction to the Standers-by, being assisted in this Ceremony by two Cardinal-Deacons, who put on his Mitre, and took it off, just as the Service requir’d. Then his Holiness descended from the Throne, and being seated in his Procession Chair, was carry’d to the Lateran Palace. During this, the Musick
play’d Anthems, and the Cardinal Arch-priest read several Prayers. When the Pope arriv’d at the great Pew fronting the spacious Square that opens towards the City of Rome, he ascended a very high Throne, and gave his Benediction twice to all the Christian People. Then he saw some slight Medals scatter’d among the Populace, which were struck with his own Die. After this, he was carry’d in a Sedan to his Coach, in which he took with him the Cardinals Banchieri and Olivieri, and thus he return’d to the Palace of Monte-Cavallo, attended by his usual Train.
This Cavalcade and Ceremony, after all that can be said, appear more magnificent in the Descriptions or Prints that are engrav’d of them, than they are in reality. If I may presume to say so, it has an Air of Masquerade which I don’t think suitable to the Court of the Vicar of Jesus Christ. All the Laity dress’d in Black, and most of the Clergy in Purple, mounted upon Mules; all this, I say, forms a very dismal Pomp. Most of the Cardinals and Prelates are ancient, and to see them on Horseback, is not to see them at an Advantage. Carpets of different Colours were hung out at all the Windows, as is the Custom here upon all solemn Festivals, either in Processions, or in public Entries. But in my Opinion, all this Tapestry, instead of adorning the Houses, makes them look like Brokers Shops. The Carpets which are hung out in France and the Netherlands upon such Solemnities have an Air much more majestic.
The Models after which the triumphal Arch was erected were very fine; but as it was executed in Paper and Pastboard, a great Rain which had fallen for some Days before, had almost spoil’d it. Besides this, the Order of the Procession was very ill observ’d; for there were sometimes Intervals
of half a Quarter of an Hour. And when the Pope went out of the Lateran Church, there was so great a Stop of Coaches, that he was above an Hour getting along. ’Tis said, there will speedily be a Promotion of Cardinals; if so, I shall not fail to let you know what passes at that Ceremony. But at present I shall add no more, and I question whether you will hear from me again before Lent. I am, &c.
