LETTER XXXIII.

SIR,Rome, Sept. 5, 1731.

Give me Leave to tell you, that I think the Approbation with which you honour my Narratives, favours more of Compliment than Sincerity; for all the Merit they can challenge, is, that they are written with an unaffected Simplicity. I tell you Things just as I find them, or as they are reported to me; if I accuse wrongfully, ’tis owing to my Misinformation, or my Credulity; for I do my best, and set about it heartily, and you can’t define any thing more. You wish to know the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; I will now relate them to you as they pass’d this Year.

On Palm Sunday, the Pope distributed Palms in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo to all the Cardinals, and others that were present.

Upon the last Wednesday in Lent, the Cardinals went after Dinner to the Pope’s Chapel, where they were present at Vespers, and the Tenebræ, sung by the Pope’s Voices, without being accompany’d by Instruments. ’Tis perhaps one of the finest Pieces of Music that was ever compos’d, and ’tis so much valued here, that the Master of the Chapel dares not to give Copies of it, nor the others to transcribe it, on Pain of Excommunication.

The Pope being somewhat indispos’d upon Holy Thursday, Cardinal Barberini officiated for him. The Cardinals repair’d in the Morning to the Vatican in Sixtus’s Chapel, and assisted at High Mass; after which the Cardinal Barberini, preceded by the Bishops and Cardinals, all in Mitres and white Copes, carry’d the Holy Sacrament in Procession, under a Canopy held up by eight Archbishops, into Paul’s Chapel, which was finely illuminated. There our Lord’s Body was deposited, after which the Cardinals went into a Hall, where they found thirteen Priests of divers Nations, dress’d in white woollen Robes, with square Caps of the same, all sitting on a high Bench in form of a Gradatory. Cardinal Barberini, who sat on a Throne erected at the End of the Hall, took off his Cope, and having put on the Chasuble, he pronounc’d some Collects, which were answer’d by the Music. He then put off the Chasuble, took a white Napkin, and went and wash’d the Feet of the Priests, in a silver gilt Bason, which was carry’d by the Masters of the Ceremonies. Having wip’d their Feet dry, he kiss’d them, and distributed to each Priest, by the Hands of the Apostolical Treasurer, two Medals of Gold, and one of Silver. Then he reascended the Throne,

and having again put on the Chasuble, he struck up the Pater-noster, and the Music finish’d it. This done, he went with the Cardinals his Brethren into a separate Room, where he resum’d his ordinary Habit. On the other Hand, the thirteen Priests were led by a Master of the Ceremonies into a Hall, where they seated themselves at a Table, which was elegantly serv’d. The Pope’s Chamberlains of Honour waited on them, and if the Pope had been well, he wou’d have done the same himself. The Cardinals din’d also together, and their Dinner, which was one of the most sumptuous, is always provided at the Expence of their Eminencies out of certain Monies coming to them from the Rota and the Datary. The Priests Table is defray’d by the Apostolical Chamber, and the Service of both Tables is order’d by the Pope’s Major Domo. The Cardinal’s Beaufet is very neat; I have seen some that are more magnificent, but never one that is better dispos’d. The Cardinals always take their own Liquor with ’em; which, ’tis said, has been their Practice ever since the Catastrophe that happen’d to Pope Alexander VI. and his Son Cæsar Borgia, Duke de Valentinois, when the latter, for the Sake of having the Debris of the Cardinal Adrian de Cornetto, order’d Wine that was poison’d to be serv’d up at a Supper where the Pope was to be present, together with the said Cardinal, for whom he intended the poisonous Draught. But Cornetto had the good Luck to escape the Snare, and only the Pope and Cæsar suffer’d by it: For being both thirsty, when they came into the Supper-Room, and calling for a Glass of Wine at the very Instant when the Person who was let into the Secret was gone out of the Room, another fill’d them out each a Bumper, of the Wine that was prepar’d, which

kill’d the Pope; but Cæsar, having caus’d himself to be wrapp’d up in the Skin of a Mule, recover’d.

After Dinner, the Cardinals return’d to Sixtus’s Chapel, where they assisted at the Tenebræ, and the Miserere. This Day’s Ceremony of washing Feet is a Custom of antient Standing among the Catholic Princes. We find in the History of France, that Robert the Pious, he that was call’d King of his Morals, as well as of his Subjects, constantly kept two hundred poor Men in his Retinue, and often wash’d their Feet, particularly upon Holy Thursday. So at Vienna, Versailles, in Spain, and at several other Courts, the Empress, the Queens, and other Sovereign Princesses, wash the Feet of thirteen Women upon the same Day.

Upon good Friday in the Morning, the Cardinals were again present at Divine Service in Sixtus’s Chapel; after which, they din’d together, but they had nothing besides Roots; and one of the Pope’s Chaplains read the Lecture. After their Repast, they again assisted at the Miserere, and then they all went down into St. Peter’s Church, where, having form’d a Semi-circle before the High Altar, they kneel’d down upon Cushions of purple Cloth, and in that Manner reverenc’d the Reliques, which were held forth to them from a high Balcony. These were the Spear with which our Saviour’s Side was pierc’d, the Holy Handkerchief, and a great Piece of the Cross on which he was crucify’d.

On Saturday the Cardinals assisted at Divine Service, in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo.

Upon Sunday, which was the first Day of Easter, the Pope, dress’d in his Pontificalibus, was carry’d in his processional Chair to his Chapel, where he struck up the High Mass, which was sung to the End by a Cardinal Priest. Then the

Pope was carry’d to the Box or Gallery facing the Great Square, where a Cardinal Deacon read the Bull In Cœna Domini with an audible Voice; after which the Pope fulminated the Apostolical Censures against Heretics, by throwing down a lighted Flambeau into the Square. After this, the Holy Father, while the Cannon were fir’d from the Castles of Monte-Cavallo, and St. Angelo, gave his Benediction twice to the Populace, who were on their Knees in the Square, and in the Streets that led to the Palace. The Blessing which the Pope gives that Day is solemn, and extends to the whole Christian World. I forgot to tell you, that upon Holy Thursday and Good Friday, while the Church is in Mourning for the Saviour of the World, the Pope’s Chapel is stripp’d of all Ornaments, the Throne of the Holy Father is without a Canopy, and the Pope neither gives so much as one Blessing, nor admits any body to kiss his Foot or his Hand.

Since I am treating of Ceremonies, I will give you an Account of those that are observed at the Fabrication and Distribution of the Agnus Dei’s of white Wax, which on one Side represent the Saviour of the World, in the Form of a Lamb, (bearing the Standard of the Cross) according to the Attribute that was given him by his Forerunner St. John the Baptist. This of Agnus Dei is an old Custom in the Church. St. Augustin makes mention of it in his 118th Epistle. Baronius assures us, in his 8th Volume, that ’twas the Custom in his Time, upon the Quasimodo Sundays, to distribute among the People Agnus Dei’s consecrated by the Pope. And Cardinal Bellarmine says, that in 798, Pope Leo III. gave an Agnus Dei to the Emperor Charlemain, which was set in a Gold Frame adorn’d with precious

Stones[14]. All the Popes consecrate Agnus Dei’s in the first Year of their Pontificate; and they perform the same Ceremony in the Jubilee Year, and every seven Years, reckoning from the first Year of their Exaltation. Clement XII. perform’d the Ceremony on the Wednesday after Easter, in the great Hall of his Apartment at Monte-Cavallo, which was then hung with red Damask adorned with Gold Lace. The Pope’s Throne was at one End of the Hall, with an Altar on his right Hand; and between the Throne and the Altar, there was a Pew for the Pretender and his Family. Opposite to the Throne, there was a great Gallery, with Steps to it, for the Ambassador of Venice, the Ladies, and other Persons of Distinction. Under that Gallery was an Amphitheatre for the Spectators of the second Class. Within the Rails, which were cover’d with red Damask, there was a square Pit, and in the Middle of it four large Cisterns of solid Silver, full of Water,

placed on Pedestals of Wood, silvered and gilt, Admirably carv’d by Bernini. When the Pope, accompanied by ten Cardinals, whom he had invited to this Ceremony, was entered into the Hall, and seated on his Throne, two Chamberlains of Honour placed a Cistern before him of the same Kind as the four that were in the Hall. The Pope, who had a Mitre upon his Head, of silver Brocade, and a Cope of the same, struck up the Veni Spiritus Sancte, which the Music carry’d on. Afterwards the Holy Father read some Collects, and blessed the Water that was in the Cistern before him, into which he poured Holy Oil, and Holy Chrism. Then came four Cardinals with silver Ladles, who dipp’d them into the Holy Water, and carry’d it to mix with the Water that was in the four Cisterns. This done, the Pope and the Cardinals put on great white Aprons, and the Cardinals sat two and two upon Joint-stools at each Cistern, while two other Cardinals supported the Pope. The Chamberlains of Honour, and the Prelates of the Houshold, brought the Agnus Dei’s in wooden Tubs, wash’d with Silver; and as fast as they threw them into the Cisterns fill’d with Holy Water, the Pope and the Cardinals fish’d them up again with great Skimmers of Silver, and put them into other Tubs, which the Prelates deliver’d to the Sextons. This lasted near two Hours, till the Pope, being quite fatigued, rose up, read some more Collects, and then retired. The same Ceremony was repeated next Day, and in these two Days they made threescore thousand Agnus Dei’s, which they say cost the Chamber twelve thousand Crowns.

Upon Quasimodo Sunday, the Pope distributed the Agnus’s with very great Ceremony in the Chapel of Monte-Cavallo. He was carry’d in his Processional Chair from his Apartment to the

Chapel, where, being seated on his Throne, and the Agnus Dei having been perform’d by the Music, one of the Apostolical Subdeacons, carrying the Agnus’s in a Silver Bason, preceded by the Cross, and by the Acolytes, or Assistants at Mass, bearing Wax Candles in great Silver Candlesticks, and the Censer, enter’d the Chapel, and kneeling down, said to the Pope with a loud Voice, Pater Sancte, isti sunt Agni novelli, qui annunciaverint nobis Alleluja; modo venerunt ad fontes, repleti sunt charitate; Alleluja. To which the Choir answered, Deo Gratias; Alleluja. Then the Sub-deacon rose, and went and kneel’d down in the Middle of the Chapel, where he repeated the same Words as before. He did the same Thing at the Foot of the Pope’s Throne, to whom he presented a Bason full of Agnus Dei’s, in little Packets, wrapp’d up in Cotton, which the Holy Father distributed to the Cardinals, and all the Standers-by, who receiv’d them on their Knees. I got my Share of them, and only wait for an Opportunity to send some to you.

There’s a Sort of People here who carry their Pretensions very high. These are the Roman Princes, who for most part are only beholden for this princely Dignity to the Happiness of their Families, in having one of them a Pope; for many of them are scarce so much as Gentlemen. They are complimented with the Style of Excellency, but this Title extends only to the First-born of the Family. They require a vast deal of Homage from their Domestics, and all affect to have Canopies and Chambers of Audience in their Palaces. They expect that a Gentleman should come to their Houses without sending Word beforehand, and wait in their Antichamber till they are pleas’d to see him. You will think that they must be very necessitous Gentlemen,

who will submit to this Rule, and that their Excellencies Antichambers are only frequented by their own Domestics. When they receive Visits from one another in Ceremony, they seat themselves under a Canopy like the Cardinals; then they go abroad in State, and have two Coaches to follow their Body-Coach, in which his Excellency sits forward by himself, and his Gentlemen ride backward, and at the Boots of the Coach: A Footman carries an Umbrella before them, as is done before the Cardinals, which is a Signal of Respect that requires all Coaches, except those of the Cardinals or Priests, to give them the Way, and even to stop while they pass by.

The Princesses formerly did not use to give the Right Hand to the Ladies of Quality at their own Houses; but since the Honours annex’d to Nepotism have been abolish’d, they have been oblig’d to humble themselves, and to treat the Ladies as their Equals; yet for all this they correspond together very little. Heretofore too the Pope’s Nieces did not give Precedence to any body, not even to the Princesses; and all Ladies in general were oblig’d to be in a full Dress, when they paid them a Visit; nor did the Nieces go to any body’s House, but enjoy’d all the Honours of Sovereigns. But all this is over now; for the Nieces of the present Pope not only give the Right Hand to Ladies of the lowest Rank, but also return their Visits. Indeed the Princesses Corsini are extraordinary civil and complaisant to every body; and even at this Day, tho’ the Pope has declar’d their Husbands Princes and Dukes, they are content to pass with the Title of Marchionesses, and have set up no Canopies. The Nobility are vastly pleas’d with their Carriage, but the Princes are much disgusted at it, and think that by such Behaviour they disparage their Dignity.

Some Days ago an Englishman, one Thirems, who has been a long time in the Service of the Great Duke of Tuscany, and is very much attach’d to the Corsini Family, said to the Pope, with whom he is very free, that the Behaviour of the Corsini Ladies was very much applauded by the Nobility, but as much dislik’d by the Princes. ‘What! said the Pope, Do the Princes think that my Nephews and Nieces were not of as good Blood, when they had only the Title of Marquises and Marchionesses, as they are now they have the Title of Prince? I would have them know, that tho’ I have declar’d my Nephews Princes and Dukes, it was rather to conform to an old Custom, than with any Design to ennoble them.’

I would pardon the Roman Princes all their Vanity, if they enjoy’d any solid Prerogatives; but at their Estates they are no more than plain Gentlemen, and whenever the Pope pleases, he sends the Sbirri to arrest them, as well as the meanest of his Subjects. The Thing which puffs up this Gentry to such a Degree, is, that Gentlemen of good Families make no Scruple to wait on them, the Poverty among the Nobility being very great, and there being but a very indifferent Chance for Gentlemen of the Sword, because the greatest Part of the Roman Gentry are so much degenerated from their Ancestors, that they have no Taste for Arms; while their Fondness for Rome, and the Notion they have, that there is not such a delightful Place in the World, hinders them from going abroad, and puts them under a Necessity of being Slaves to People, who are very often their Inferiors in Birth.

Nor do the Roman Princes distinguish themselves either by their Air, or their Manner of Living. They have a great Number of Footmen indeed, some no less than two dozen; but they live very

meanly, so that not one of them keeps an open Table, or has any thing to treat with but Ice, and at most a Dish of Chocolate. The Evening is the Time to converse with them; for as soon as the Angelus has sounded, all Ceremonies at Rome are over, the Abbats and Priests go in the Lay Habit to the Cardinals, and all Compliments at meeting are set aside.

The Princes and the Cardinals give their Domestics such sorry Wages, that their Livery Servants are continually mumping. The first Time one comes to a House, the Domestics accost you for something to drink, which is what they call Lucky Handsel; they mump again at New-Years Tide, and in the Month of August, which is what they call la Ferra Gusta, and again when the Mistress of the House is brought to bed of a Son; in short, they find out so many Pretences, that they are perpetually teizing People for Money.

The Princesses have the Privilege of being lighted to the public Spectacles by eight Flambeaux of white Wax; but I have known some of them, who, for saving their Wax, never burnt any till they came within four or five hundred Paces of the Theatre, when they stopp’d to give their Lacqueys Time to light their Flambeaux, in order that they might arrive at the Opera in Pomp. And when they went out, they stopp’d at the very same Place for the Lacqueys to put out their Flambeaux, from which Place all the Light the Princesses had to go home by was no more than a couple of little dark Lanthorns, which are here made use of commonly. This way of going with eight Flambeaux puts me in mind of a certain English Dutchess, who having travell’d in that manner at Rome, would fain have introduced the Fashion at Paris too; but she was forbid to make that Parade there, because the first two or three times that she went abroad

with so much Splendor, every body fell on their Knees, and thought the Holy Sacrament was carrying to some sick Person.

Most of the Ladies, as well as Princesses, have very magnificent Coaches, but seldom make use of them. The Marquis Sudarini, who has lately match’d his Son, has made his Daughter-in-law a Present of a Coach, for which he gave 7000 Roman Crowns, and there are many others that cost more Money; but these Coaches are terrible Machines, and ’tis as much as a Pair of Horses can do to drag them along: Besides, these stately portable Houses have an Attendance on them, which is by no means suitable; they are generally accompany’d by half a score, or a dozen shabby Footmen, who, with the Swords that they wear, look more like Catchpoles than Footmen. Their Liveries in general are Scarecrows, and I do not think that there are any in the whole World more fantastical: The Lacqueys are for the most part old, dirty, unshapable Fellows, because, when once a poor Wretch has a Livery put upon his Back, he never throws it off, and does not so much as attain to the Honour of being a Valet de Chambre. When he is past his Service his Master jubilées him, that is to say, puts him upon Half-pay, and he serves no longer. The Appearance or Neatness of a Servant are Things that are not regarded here; and provided they have but the Number, what matters it, say they, how they look?

This Maggot of keeping so many Lacqueys has infected even the Citizens; they who are in such mean Circumstances, that they cannot afford to maintain them the whole Year round, covenant with them only for Sundays and Saints Days. Thus a Journeymen Shoemaker, or a Chimney sweeper, who has but that very Day put a Scrub Livery on his Back, and that often borrow’d of a Tallyman,

shall walk gravely before young Master, or pretty Miss, to and from Church, with his greasy Hair turn’d up behind his Ears, and a long Sword by his Side. For it would be reckon’d indecent here to see a Woman or a Miss go abroad alone, and the most abandon’d Prostitutes are always attended with a Matron.

The Funerals of Persons of Quality are perform’d here with very great Pomp; all the Dead are carried to Interment with their Faces bare. I saw the Funerals of Cardinal Buoncompagno, Archbishop of Bologna, and the Prince Ruspoli. The former was carried by Night in one of his Coaches to the Church of St. Andrew de Laval, which was hung all over with Black. Next Day the Corpse was laid upon a Bed of State in the Middle of the Nave of the Church, dress’d in the Sacerdotal Vestments, with the Head turn’d towards the Choir, and the Cardinal’s Hat at the Feet: Four Valets de Chambre stood at the Corners of the Bed, and each held a Banner of black Taffeta, with the Arms of the Deceas’d: There were an hundred great Tapers or Torches of White Wax in large Iron Candlesticks round the Bed: The high Mass was sung with Music, and the whole Sacred College was present: When the Cardinals enter’d the Church, they made a short Prayer to the Holy Sacrament on their Knees; after which they went and kneeled at the Feet of the Deceased, where they said a Pater, and the Prayer Absolve Domine, &c. and then taking the Holy Water Brush, they sprinkled it on the Corpse: The Cardinals retir’d after the Mass, but the Corpse lay expos’d till the Evening, when the Priests Vestments were taken off of the Deceased, and he was put into a Leaden Coffin, which was inclos’d in another of Cypress Wood, and then let down into the Grave. The Prince Ruspoli’s Corpse was expos’d in the Church

of St. Laurence Lucini, which had been his Parish Church, in the same manner as the Cardinal de Buoncompagno was; but none of the Cardinals, nor any of the Deceased’s Kindred, assisted at the Office; for the Italians say, ’tis barbarous to oblige Relations to attend each other’s Funerals, as is the Fashion with us.

But tho’ they do not attend at the Funerals, yet they wear Mourning much more regularly, and longer than we do. A Woman’s Mourning is black from Head to Foot, so that one does not see the least Bit of Linen they have, which is not a very favourable Circumstance to those of a brown Complexion. The Pope’s Nieces never wear Mourning, not even for their nearest Relations; for the Romans reckon it so great a Happiness for a Family to have a Pope of it, that they say nothing ought to afflict the Kindred of a Pope.

They bury People here twenty-four Hours after they are dead, and sometimes sooner. ’Tis surprizing to see how quick they dress their Churches, whether for Funerals or Festivals, which it must be allow’d is always done with extraordinary Magnificence and Elegance. Most of the Churches have their own Suits of Hangings. Upon solemn Festivals they are commonly hung with Crimson Damask, with a Border of Velvet of the same Colour, adorn’d throughout with Lace and Fringe of Gold. All these Festivals of the Church are celebrated with very great Pomp and Bustle; all the Houses of the adjacent Quarters are illuminated in the Eve of the Festival, as well as in the Night itself; which always concludes with a Firework play’d off in the most spacious Part of the Quarter where it is celebrated, at the Expence of the Parishioners. The Romans have a singular Taste for all Holidays, and are great Admirers of Spectacles: They are at least as mere Cockneys as the Parisians,

and every little Novelty makes them run to it, as if they had never seen the like in their Lives, tho’ all that they see is but the same Thing over again: They erect a Firework in the Twinkling of an Eye; these are very high Machines made of Reeds cover’d with Paper, which makes a very great Shew at little Expence: There’s scarce a Week that passes in the Summer-time, but they have one or two of these Fireworks.

The Tribunal of the Rota is, next to the Congregations of the Cardinals, the chief Tribunal in Rome, if not of the whole World; for its Authority extends over all the Kingdoms and Dominions that acknowledge the Holy See. It consists of a dozen Prelates, who have the Title of Auditors; viz. one German, one French, two Spaniards, one Bolognese, one Ferrarese, one Venetian, one Tuscan, one Milanese, and three Romans. They have four Notaries under them, and the oldest Auditor is President; they meet twice a Week in the Palace where the Pope resides. Appeals in all Catholic Countries for Causes relating to Benefices are made to the Tribunal of the Rota.

The Governor of Rome is always a Prelate, and commonly an Archbishop in partibus; his Post gives him the Rank immediately after the Cardinals, and he challenges Precedency of the Ambassadors of crown’d Heads[15]; tho’ I cannot positively say whether these yield it to him, because I never yet saw them appear at any public Ceremony. This Governor is the Sovereign Judge of Criminal Causes, and takes Cognisance of all Civil Causes, that require a speedy Issue: He has under him a Lieutenant and an Auditor Civil, a Lieutenant and two Judges Criminal, with a Multitude of Subaltern Officers; and the Provost, who is call’d the

Barrigello, with 300 Sergeants, or Sbirri. When he goes abroad, he is attended by his Guards, who are ten or a dozen old Halbardiers, more ragged than any that you ever saw; he causes his Horses to wear Tufts of black Feathers; for you must know, that there are four Sorts of Plumes; the Cardinals who are Princes by Birth, or the Ambassadors, have them of Red and Gold; those of the Cardinals, who are not Princes, are plain Red; the Princes have theirs of Gold Colour: The Governor of Rome, and the other Prelates, as the Major Domo, cause their Horses to wear black ones: The Governor always goes abroad with two Coaches, and has an Umbrella carried before him as the Cardinals have: He goes twice a Week to an Audience of the Holy Father, to give him an Account of what passes, but particularly to make a Report of the condemn’d Malefactors; and he must never be absent from Rome: One of the noblest Prerogatives belonging to his Office, is, that he never quits it but to be made a Cardinal.

Another Magistrate of Note at Rome is the Senator: The Romans pretend that he represents the ancient Senate of Rome; if so, ’tis but a poor Epitome of it. He lives in the Capitol, and must always be born out of Rome. He holds his Office by Patent from the Pope, and has it for his Life. He has under him several Subaltern Officers; two Lieutenants Civil, styl’d Collaterals; a Judge, intitled Captain of the Appeals; a Lieutenant Criminal, or Fiscal, who passes Sentences of Death; and he has a Right to take Cognisance of all Causes Civil and Criminal, that happen to arise between the Citizens and Inhabitants of Rome: For this End he has also under him 30 Notaries or Commissaries, and the Prisons of the Capitol are at his Disposal: When he appears at any public Ceremony, he is dress’d in a long Robe of Gold Brocade lin’d

with red Taffeta, and a Cap of black Velvet: He has a Seat to himself in the Pope’s Chapel, and goes, like the Governor of Rome, twice a Week, to give an Account to the Pope and the Cardinal Nephew of what has pass’d at his Bar; he is then dress’d in a long Simar, or Robe of Velvet, or black Mohair. When he enters into his Office, he takes an Oath to the Pope, and his Holiness gives him the Staff of Command, which is a Sceptre of Ivory; he is afterwards conducted with great Ceremony to the Capitol, guarded by all the Nobility of Rome on Horseback, and by all the Militia of the City.

Their Manner of executing Criminals is very singular. They have but two Sorts of Punishments here, viz. the Strappa Corda, and the Gibbet. The first, tho’ ’tis not mortal, seems to my Mind more terrible than Death itself; the Malefactor being ty’d with his two Hands together to a Rope, by which he is hoisted 15 or 16 Feet from the Ground, and then let fall on a sudden, so that he generally becomes a Cripple for Life. When a Man is to be hang’d, they talk of it a Week beforehand, as if it was the finest Holiday in the World: The Night before the Execution, several Prelates, Princes, and others of Quality admitted into the Confraternity of Comforters, repair at Midnight to the Prison. When they come near the Dungeon, they make a great Noise, and with a loud Voice ask the Gaoler, Where is such a one? naming the Criminal that is to be condemn’d. Here he is, says the Man, loud enough to be heard by the Criminal. Open the Doors to us, say the Comforters; he is in a bad State there, we will remove him to a Place where he shall be better. The Turnkey opens the Dungeon, and lets in the Comforters, who exhort the Criminal to go along with them; and being guarded by a Company of the Sbirri, they put him

in the middle, and carry him thro’ several Galleries and Turnings towards the Door of a Chapel, before which is hung a Piece of black Cloth. Just as the Criminal is preparing to enter it, the Fiscal, calling him by his Name, says to him, You—there is your Sentence; and at the same time throws him a Paper, in which the Sentence is written: The Criminal reads it, or else one of the Comforters does that Office for him: That very Moment the Sbirri withdraw, and the Comforters remain alone with the Criminal: Then the Cloth hung before the Chapel Door is lifted up, and the Patient is led to an Altar at the End of it, with a Crucifix upon it, in the middle of six lighted Wax Candles, where the Question is put to him, If he is willing to confess: If he says, Yes, as very few Italians die willingly without Confession, a Confessor is allotted him, who gives him the best Advice that he can.

The Italians generally make their Exit like good Christians, but ’tis with very great Reluctance. A Man, who was condemn’d to die some Years ago for the Crime which brought down Fire from Heaven upon Sodom, would not hear any Talk of Confession; upon which Cardinal Banchieri, at that time only a Prelate, being one of his Comforters, and exhorting him to beg of God to pardon his Sins; What! said the Criminal to him, Would you have me die for a Crime, of which you Priests are all guilty to a Man? I don’t know, said the Cardinal, of any Priests that are so unhappy as to commit such a Crime; but if there are, they don’t plead guilty in the Face of Justice. Another Malefactor being very loth to die, a Comforter said to him, that Kings and Popes must all submit to Death. True, reply’d the Convict, but they are not all hang’d.

After a Criminal has confess’d, he receives the Sacraments, and the Comforters continue with him

till the next Day. At Ten o’Clock, which is the Hour of Execution, he is convey’d in a Cart to the Gallows, to which he rides backwards, attended by two Priests, and two Comforters. When they are come to the fatal Place, they set him down out of the Cart before a Chapel to say his Prayers; and then they make him walk backwards to the Foot of the Ladder, which he always mounts with his Back to it; when the Hangman, who is at the Top of it, fastens the Rope about his Neck, and then leans with all his Weight upon his Shoulders, to put him out of his Pain. After he is expir’d, Masses are said in all the Churches, and even in the Pope’s Chapel, for the Repose of his Soul; and for this End a Collection is made, to which the poorest People contribute something; at length, after he has hung four or five Hours, he is bury’d like another Man.

You’ll excuse me, Sir, for concluding my Letter with such a dismal Subject: The Post is just going off, and I have many other Letters to write, so that I hope you won’t take it ill that I add no more to this. I am, &c.