CHAPTER II.

General Remarks on the Countries, in the Line of Mr. Horneman’s Route.

I shall next proceed to offer some geographical, and other, remarks, on certain of the subjects that present themselves in and about the line of Mr. Horneman’s route; as, 1. The Bahr-bela-ma, and Valley of Mogara. 2. Siwah. 3. The Lesser Oasis. 4. The Valleys of Schiacha and Gegabib. 5. Augila. 6. The Harutsch. 7. Fezzan and Gadamis.

I. The Bahr-bela-ma, and Valley of Mogara.

The term Bahr is well known to signify (in Arabic) an expanse of water, whether sea, lake, or river: and Bahr-bela-ma, a hollow space that is supposed to have contained them: in other words, the sea, lake, or river, without water. In its application to the present subject, it has been understood by some great authorities, to be the ancient bed of a river; and that river, the Nile of Egypt; which they suppose to have quitted its present course, at Benjusef, and, passing through the province of Faiume, and the lake Kairun, entered the sea at the Gulf of the Arabs. Having already given an opinion on this subject, I shall say no more concerning it in this place, than that it is by no means weakened by any thing that has appeared since: that opinion was, “that in ancient times the bed of the Nile lay lower than the province of Faiume:” and it is certain, that the gap, or outlet at Sakkara, is still above the level of the Nile.

Mr. Horneman’s observations, added to those of General Andreossy, and of Mr. Browne, throw some further light on the course of the hollow bed, or channel in question.

It appears that the General, as well as Mr. Browne,[27] came to the Natron Valley at about 32 G. miles to the westward of Terané: and that the General also found, adjacent to it, on the west, separated only by a narrow ridge, a second and larger valley, which the Arabs name Bahr-bela-ma; and also Bahr-el-farigh, which signifies the empty river. These he found to run parallel to each other, in a direction of about NNW ½ W and SSE ½ E, for about 30 miles; and without any appearance of termination, either way. The Natron Valley, he reckons 2½ French leagues, or about 6½ G. miles, in breadth; the other, 3 leagues, or 7¾ such miles; or, both together, from one extreme to the other, more than 14¼. See the Mémoires, p. 239, 240, and also the map.

Mr. Horneman, in his way westward from Cairo, passed the Natron Valley, at the distance of about 40 G. miles from Cairo; and, by circumstances, not more than 9 or 10 from the extreme southern part seen by General Andreossy. At the distance of about 8 miles from the Natron Valley he descended, and came to what he calls the foot of a sand hill; but it being dark, he could not form any idea of the place itself, or of the adjacent country: he however observes, that it will be proper for future travellers to look in this place, for the course of the Bahr-bela-ma: doubtless, because he found a deep and capacious hollow; but concerning which, he gives no farther intimation. Adverting, therefore, to the description of General Andreossy, I regard the sand hill rather as the ridge that separates the two valleys or hollows, than as the thing Mr. Horneman took it for. He says, that they descended the sand hill, in indescribable disorder;[28] which seems to imply a long, as well as a steep descent: and, leaving the place, before it was light enough to form a judgment of the nature of it, he only directs the attention of others to it: surely, because it was a hollow tract.

It may be allowed, therefore, that the Bahr-bela-ma and Natron Valleys extend 40 or more G. miles, pointing northward to the Lake Mareotis, or to the Gulf of the Arabs; and on the other hand, towards the quarter of the lake of Kairun; from whence they seem to be less than 30 miles distant.

The four hours of travelling, between the station at the Natron Valley, and the foot of the sand hill, does not ill agree with the ground. The breadth of the Natron Valley, 6½ G. miles, is, reckoning the ascent on the west, equal to 3¼ hours travelling; and General Andreossy says, that he was 40 minutes in descending the slope, to the bottom of the Bahr-bela-ma. (Mem. p. 240.) Here then we have made out nearly the four hours: besides, it is not certain that the hollows may not have been crossed obliquely, by Mr. Horneman.

It appears that M. D’Anville believed the existence of, and has expressed on his map of Egypt, a hollow or valley, extending the whole way from the lake Kairun, to the neighbourhood of the Gulf of the Arabs. The French, it seems, have never had an opportunity of determining the questions; which appears extraordinary. I shall now proceed to the description of another valley, which may possibly be a branch of the Bahr-bela-ma.

Valley of Mogara.

Mr. Horneman states, that the morning on which he left the foot of the sand hill, he entered the Desert which may be considered as “the natural limit of Egypt.” This Desert extends more than 150 G. miles from east to west: its extent southward, is not known, but it probably borders on the Lesser Oasis. Whether it be a part of that great sandy desert of twelve journies across, between the Greater Oasis and Siwah, Mr. Horneman had no opportunity of knowing; as he remained in uncertainty respecting the course of the Ummesogeir hills, southward.

This Desert, perfectly flat, and covered with shifting sand, is bounded northward by a chain of bare calcareous hills, running nearly east and west, in the line of our traveller’s route. On the side towards the Desert, they are steep, and are bordered by a remarkable valley or hollow, known to extend from the neighbourhood of the Bahr-bela-ma, to the length of a journey of seven days westward. Its breadth is from one mile, to six; it had much standing water in it, at certain seasons; but when Mr. Horneman saw it (in September 1798,) it had only some small lakes or ponds, at intervals; and in several places, tracts of marshy or swampy land, extending for several miles together. The water of the pools was bitter; but sweet water was found close to them, on digging to the depth of four to six feet. (See above, [p. 10.]) The caravans in this route, keep along the edge of the valley, availing themselves of its resources of water, every two or three days; but preferring the sandy path, as being best adapted to the feet of the camels.

How far the valley extends westwards, is not known to us: whether it terminates at the place where Mr. Horneman ascended the hills of Ummesogeir, (which form a continuation of the range of calcareous hills before-mentioned;) or whether it communicates with those valleys, which contain the Greater or Lesser Oasis. Be it as it will, it seems to partake of the nature of those valleys; being situated at the foot of steep calcareous hills, and below the level of the flat Desert beneath them. It is remarked, that the steep sides of all these ranges face the south or west.[29] In one particular, however, this valley of Mogara, differs very widely from those which contain the Oasis, (although it seems very much akin to that of Schiacha; of which more in the sequel,) in that no water springs up to the surface; to which cause we may probably attribute the absence of such tracts of land, as are denominated Oases. The springs indeed, appear to me, to be a characteristic feature of the Oases.

We learn a curious particular from General Andreossy, whilst speaking of the Bahr-bela-ma. He says, (Mém. sur l’Egypte, p. 246,) that the people of Terané on the Nile, transport from a valley situated three days journey beyond the Bahr-bela-ma, a species of rushes, which are manufactured into mats at Menouf, in the Delta. The General supposes the place in question to be a continuation of the Bahr-bela-ma, into the interior of Africa; and indeed it may well be, that the valley of Mogara is a branch of the former: separating from it, at, or near, the place where Mr. Horneman crossed it. The place alluded to by the General, may be about Biljoradek, and in one of the swampy tracts spoken of above: or if the three journies are meant from Terané, as is not impossible, that it will be about Mogara. At all events, we must regard this valley as the place intended by General Andreossy.

This gentleman’s description of the Bahr-bela-ma is well worthy of attention, but is too long to be inserted here. He found in it, petrified wood, of the same kind with that seen by Horneman, in the adjacent sandy Desert:[30] but both of them remark, that the wood has not any mark of a tool on it, as some have fancifully imagined, and have thence regarded the valley as an ancient bed of the Nile, deserted about the date of the foundation of Memphis.

No doubt the hollow in question very much resembles a water-course, both as to form, and from its having pebbles in it; but where is the body of fresh water that could have scooped it out, or have filled it? General Andreossy reckons it nearly nine British miles in breadth, and exceedingly deep; and the Nile does not at any time carry a body of water, equal to one mile in breadth! What the state of things was, at an earlier period of the world, we know not, but within the reach of history, the Nile appears to have been much of the same bulk, as at present.

But this is not the only difficulty. The province of Faiume, through which the supposed issue of the Nile must have been, is separated from the valley of the Nile, by a continuation of the ridge of hills that forms the western wall of Egypt; and through which, (if I understand the matter right,) the passage to the lake of Kairun, by Illahon and Hawara, has been made by art. At all events, this canal or passage cannot be regarded as the continuation of the ancient bed of the Nile from Upper Egypt into the Bahr-bela-ma, because of its confined dimensions: and of course, all idea of the Nile having detached a western branch, or thrown itself into the bed of the lake of Kairun and Bahr-bela-ma, is done away; for even admitting the continuity of these, the hollow that contains the lake, and also constitutes the province of Faiume, must be regarded as a kind of cul de sac to the Bahr-bela-ma, whilst the hills by Illahon existed. And hence I took occasion to remark, elsewhere,[31] that it is possible, that the famous work of the lake Moeris, which now forms a kind of enigma amongst the learned, might have been formed by the very act of cutting through a low part of the western wall of Egypt, and letting the water into the hollow space which now contains the lake of Kairun. But had the Nile ever formed its alluvions adjacent to the Gulf of the Arabs, there would surely be some traces of them remaining, either along the shore, or in the sea itself.

It may be remarked, that there are other valleys or hollows along the course of the Nile, almost equally extensive with that of Faiume, but to whose level the Nile is not yet risen. And here it may not be out of the way to repeat what has been said in another place,[32] that although the Nile in these times, when swoln, flows into the lake Kairun, yet there must have been a time, when its bed was too low to reach it: for it cannot be doubted, that its bed has been gradually rising, by deposition; a necessary effect of the protrusion of the lands of the Delta into the sea: and, of course, that it will continue to rise.[33]

The progress of the moving sands of Lybia, eastward, into the Bahr-bela-ma, &c. is treated of by General Andreossy, Mem. page 247, and is also well worthy of attention. This movement appears to take place, very generally; and Mr. Horneman remarks, that in their line of course, every obstruction gives rise to a sand hill; but he more particularly remarks a smaller kind of sand hill, formed by the obstruction of the trunks of palm trees; and so high as to leave to the view, nothing more than the topmost branches.

II. Siwah.

The geographical position of this remarkable place, considered generally, cannot now be questioned; since we possess, in addition to the information communicated by Mr. Browne, that of Mr. Horneman; both in respect of the time employed on his way thither, and of the reports of the natives, concerning its relative position to Cairo, the Oases, Faiume, and Derna: and when it is considered that these new authorities differ from the former ones, by a few minutes of longitude only.

The report of Mr. Horneman is no less favourable to the former idea, of its being the Oasis of Ammon; and the remains of the Egyptian structure within it, those of the famed Temple of Jupiter Ammon: the honour of which original discovery is due to Mr. Browne. For, in addition to what may be deemed the inner temple, Mr. Horneman has viewed the foundations indicated by Mr. Browne, in circumference some hundred paces; and even some remains of the walls themselves, of what may be supposed to have been the including temple; the materials of which are probably existing in the construction of the stone houses of a town, estimated to contain a population of six to seven thousand[34] persons. We need no longer to entertain a doubt, founded on the disappearance of the materials of the temple and palace described by the ancients. Besides, on a review of the subject, so many particulars accord with the ancient descriptions; such as the dimensions, and accordance of geographical situation; the fruits, the copious fountains, fertility of soil; and finally, although a negative proof, perhaps one of the strongest circumstances of all, the declaration of the inhabitants, that “no other fertile spot exists in the vicinity; or nearer than the Lesser Oasis.”

A proof of the populousness and affluence of the ancient state of Ammon, exists in the numerous catacombs pointed out to, or visited by, Browne and Horneman: and by the probability that the rocky hill on which the modern town stands, is also full of catacombs. Such are indeed known to exist within the habitations of the people of the neighbouring village of Ummesogeir; which may thence be supposed, notwithstanding its present miserable state, to have been a flourishing appendage to ancient Ammon: and might probably have been the Siropum of Ptolemy.

One particular requires discussion. Mr. Horneman differs very widely from Mr. Browne, in his estimation of the extent of the territory of Siwah. Mr. Browne reckons it six miles by four: but Mr. Horneman a circumference of 50 miles. His words are, “a well-watered valley of 50 miles in circuit, surrounded by naked steep rocks.” (Abulfeda also says, that the territory is environed by hills.) Very probably, Mr. Horneman’s idea goes to the whole space inclosed by the hills; Mr. Browne’s to the fertile part of it only; and it must be acknowledged, that the dimensions given by the latter, accord with those of the ancients.

Mr. Horneman says, that all the waters of the springs, are consumed in the irrigation of the gardens and fields; so that no stream flows beyond the district. It is certain, that Edrisi describes a river named Costara, at eight journies from Bahnasa, in the Lesser Oasis, towards Fezzan; agreeing almost exactly with the distance to Siwah from Cairo, fifteen days; which, at 19 G. miles, are equal to 285; and the construction has 275. According to Mr. Horneman’s description of the copious and numerous springs in Siwah, one of which alone, he says, forms a considerable rivulet, and another, several rivulets, it might be expected that some of the waters flowed to a considerable distance before they were entirely absorbed in the sands. The Costara river, may, however, flow from a distinct fountain in the Desert: but the coincidence of position is remarkable.

The description of the lands of Siwah, by Mr. Horneman, and of the Greater Oasis, by Mr. Browne, appear to be of the same nature; each possessing copious fountains and verdant fields, fitted either for pasture or cultivation. The lands of the Lesser Oasis are said to be much the same, though rather inferior: whence it would seem, that the Valley of Mogara, which has good water at the depth of four feet, only wants that it should spring up to the surface, in order to form it into an Oasis, like the others!

III. The Lesser Oasis.

Mr. Horneman was told that at the distance of seven journies from Siwah, five from Faiume, and at only a few from Biljoradek, there existed a country, similar to Siwah, and whose inhabitants, who are less numerous, spoke the same language. He with reason, concluded it to be a part of the Lesser Oasis of the ancients; and, from its position, it ought to be the northern extremity.

If by a few days journey, when five and seven have been mentioned before, we may understand three, or thereabouts, the place in question, should lie in the parallel of 28° 50′; at about midway between Cairo and Siwah;[35] and 89 G. miles to the westward of Bahnasa, at the canal of Joseph. Hence it falls very near to Bahnasa, in the Oasis, which has been already placed,[36] at 83 from the forementioned place.

Ptolemy places the Lesser Oasis in lat 28° 45′: and at 75 G. miles to the west of Oxyrinchus, taken for the last mentioned Bahnasa. He no doubt meant to express some particular point in the Oasis; and that point, probably, the principal town, which may have been on the site of Bahnasa in the Oasis. So that there is a general agreement between the ancient and the modern accounts of it.[37]

But Mr. Browne, when at Charje in the Greater Oasis, was told, that the southern part of the Lesser Oasis, named by the inhabitants Al-wah-el-Gherbi, was only forty miles distant to the northward. This being the case, the Lesser Oasis should have an extent of more than 100 miles from north to south: that is, more than the other tract, of the same name, denominated the Greater; but which may, nevertheless, be true, as the term greater or lesser, may refer to other qualities than dimensions. Mr. Browne describes the Greater Oasis (which he had traversed throughout) to consist of large detached spots or islands, like Siwah, extending in a chain from N to S, and separated by intervals of desert from two to fourteen hours of travelling. The Lesser Oasis, most probably, is much of the same nature; but is, by general report, inferior to the other, and vastly inferior to Siwah. See an account of the Oases in the Geog. of Herodotus, Sections xx. and xxi.

Mr. Browne adds, that the Lesser Oasis is a kind of capital settlement of the Muggrebine (or western) Arabs, who pass from it, to the western extremity of the lake Kairun; whose shore, on that side, is also in their possession. (Pages 132, 170.)

Thus, our modern travellers have fixed, pretty satisfactorily, in the view of general geography, the positions of all the three Oases: but it would be more satisfactory to have correctly the latitude of the northern extremity of the Lesser one, as well as some account of the number and position of the islands contained in it.

IV. Valleys of Schiacha, and Gegabib.

At the distance of about three days journey to the westward of Siwah, Mr. Horneman came to Schiacha, a fruitful valley on the right; and, as appears from a circumstance that occurred during the unpleasant visit of the Siwahans, there were many little bogs, in the neighbourhood of their camp, in that valley. Again, at six hours farther, was Torfaue, where they also obtained fresh water. Moreover, in the way from Siwah to Schiacha, at the distance of 6 or 7 miles from the former, he saw at the foot of the hills, a lake, implied to be of fresh water, (see Journal, [page 57,]) of several miles in extent.

Combining with this, the remark of Mr. Horneman, that they had travelled by a chain of hills from Siwah; that these hills were a continuation of those which they had always seen to the northward of their route through the Desert; and that they “rose immediately from the level ground of the Desert, without any declivity, and without any arenacious, or other cover, only the bare rock being seen;” one may conclude, that the valley described, at the foot of these hills, is much of the same nature, with that of Mogara. Moreover, it appears, that he considered the whole extent of the hills, from the Bahr-bela-ma to Schiacha, at least, as one continued ridge; and which has an abrupt declivity to the south. The continuity, however, remains to be proved.

The remarkable valley of Gegabib, famous for its dates, cannot be far from the neighbourhood of Schiacha and Torfaue; since Mr. Browne says, page 26, that when he had advanced two journies to the north-westward of Siwah, he was not far from Gegabib. Mr. Beaufoy calls it, from the description of Ben Ali, “a narrow plain, sandy, and uninhabited, but fertile in dates;” which, he adds, are gathered by the people of Duna on the sea coast, eight journies distant.[38] As Mr. Horneman remarked no date trees on his way from Siwah to Augila, his route must have been wide of this valley or plain, and no doubt to the south of it. This seems proved by Ben Ali’s description of the route from Augila to Siwah, which lay “across the extensive mountains of Gerdoba,” to this valley; since Mr. Horneman left the mountains to the northward of him, the whole way.

As the dates of Gegabib are now gathered by the people of the sea coast; and those of Augila in ancient times, by the Nasamones of the coast of the Syrtis; so the people of the same coast, aided by the modern Augilans, undertake expeditions ten days journey inland from Augila, to steal men and dates, at present![39] So that this system of inroad, from the quarter towards the coast, inland, seems to have been practised at all times; and I shall have occasion to remark it again, hereafter. Augila was an inhabited place in the time of Herodotus, and yet the dates were carried off by strangers: and it seems the present Augilans retaliate on others, the injuries sustained by their ancestors.

V. Augila.

This small, but celebrated territory, is situated nearly midway between Egypt and Fezzan; and somewhat less than 170 miles from the nearest coast of the Mediterranean. It seems to possess much of the character of an Oasis, being flat, well watered, fertile, and surrounded by arid deserts, either sandy or rocky; in particular, that to the west is so destitute of herbage, that the camels of Mr. Horneman’s caravan, carried their provender with them. Its extent from east to west, seems to be little more than a long day’s journey. The agriculture of the Augilans is confined more to gardening, than to raising of corn: but Mr. Horneman is silent respecting the culture of dates, for which it has been so celebrated both in ancient and modern times.[40]

It appears that the Augilans are the merchants who carry on the commerce between Egypt and Fezzan; for which, their middle situation, and ready communication with the port of Bengasi, qualify them. The people of one of their most populous towns,[41] Mojabra, are solely occupied with this commerce: and Mr. Horneman contrasts, in a most unfavourable light, the character of these traders, with the people of the other towns, whose employment is agriculture. In a few short remarks, we are shewn, in the most pointed manner, the natural, and almost necessary effect, of the occupations of mankind on their moral habits. Notwithstanding the possession of this commerce, Augila is still a very poor place indeed.

It may be remarked, that Augila is one of the few places in Africa that has preserved its ancient name entire.

VI. The Harutsch, White and Black.

These remarkable tracts (of which see the description above, [page 48] et seq.) had been noticed by Ben Ali, to Mr. Beaufoy, who has recorded them (in chap. x. of the Proceed. Afr. Assoc. for 1790;) the one under the description of the rocky Desert of black and naked rock, of four days extant; the other, of soft and sandy stone, of three days extent: but they are described in a very obscure manner, and their respective positions are transposed.

Mr. Horneman appears to have employed nearly fifty hours in crossing the black Harutsch; fourteen more in the white Harutsch; or altogether sixty-four hours, equal to eight ordinary caravan days; which does not differ very widely from the report of Ben Ali, who allowed seven.

The white Harutsch forms the extreme boundary of Fezzan, and extends southward, into the district of the Tibbo Rshade; of which more in the sequel. The black Harutsch appears to be much more extensive. Horneman was told, that it was in breadth five journies from east to west; (he crossed it in WSW direction;) and in length seven, from north to south. However, Mr. Horneman justly observes, that it must be more extensive, since he crossed a tract of the same nature, in his way from Fezzan to Tripoly; and even from that point it was said to extend a considerable distance to the west. He adds, that he learnt at Mourzouk, that there were black mountains also in the road from that place to Bornou: that is, to the south-east.

Mr. Beaufoy was also informed, (See chap. iv. Afr. Proceed. 1790,) that a desert named Souda, (that is, black,) is crossed in the way from Mesurata to Fezzan; agreeing with Mr. Horneman’s report. The breadth, in a north and south direction, is given at four days, or somewhat narrower than in Mr. Horneman’s line of route from Augila.

Mr. Horneman describes the black Harutsch to consist of matter, that, in his idea, was volcanic, or had undergone the action of fire: and its conformation appears very singular indeed. There exists in Pliny, an evident proof that it was known to the Romans; for they had crossed it, in their expeditions to Fezzan, and towards the Niger, &c.; and had even explored and remarked the shortest route across the same mountains.

Pliny says, that “from Cydamus (i. e. Gadamis, which, by the bye, he says lies opposite to Sabrata, on the sea coast) there extends a mountain a long way to the east, called by the Romans, Mons Ater; and which appears as if it were burnt or scorched by the rays of the sun.” (Lib. v. c. 5.) And he adds, that beyond those mountains, are deserts, and the towns of the Garamantes, which were conquered by the Romans under Balbus. In this description, we clearly recognise the Souda, or Black Desert, to the north of Fezzan; and which Mr. Horneman saw, both there, and to the east, of the same country; and also learnt, that it continued far westward, beyond the line of the road from Fezzan to Mesurata: in other words, towards Gadamis.

Sockna, which is a town of some consideration, lies midway between this road and Gadamis: and it is known that the Desert of Souda passes to the south of it. So that there is little doubt but that Pliny is right, in extending the Mons Ater westward to Cydamus, (i. e. Gadamis) and to a long extent eastward of it.

VII. Fezzan.

It has been said, that there is no material difference between the position of the capital of this country (Mourzouk), as given by Mr. Horneman, and the former assumed position in the maps, drawn for the African Association, in 1790 and 1798; considered in the view of general geography. It is for this reason, that I have not altered it in the general Map, but have accommodated the positions eastward to it; instead of altering the entire Map. But in the Map of Mr. Horneman’s Route, all the positions affected by his observations, are given according to those observations.

Neither do the boundaries and extent, as given by Mr. Horneman, differ materially from those given by Mr. Beaufoy; which is remarkable, considering under what disadvantage he collected his materials, compared with the mode of collecting them on the spot. But in arranging the boundaries, a distinction is to be made between the proper country of Fezzan, and its dependencies.

Mr. Horneman says, that the cultivated part of Fezzan has an extent of 300 British miles from north to south; by 200 from east to west: which dimensions have a general agreement with Mr. Beaufoy’s, in respect of the area of the whole; but Mr. Beaufoy makes it a circle, whilst Mr. Horneman makes it an oval. It would appear, also, that Mr. Horneman reckons the whole extent thus given by himself and Mr. Beaufoy as cultivated land; and we know too little of the actual geography to attempt any detail. Mr. Horneman came to the eastern border of Fezzan at 44 to 45 hours, equal to about 110 B. miles by the road, from Mourzouk. In order to justify Mr. Horneman’s calculation, Mourzouk ought to stand nearly in the centre, between the eastern and western limits; but Mr. Beaufoy says, that the territory does not extend far to the west of the capital.

Again, Mr. Beaufoy allows five days from the northern boundary, at the edge of the black Desert, to Mourzouk: that is, about 100 B. miles by the road. And from Mourzouk southward to the mountains of Eyre, the southern boundary, fourteen days; equal to 280 such miles: total 380: or perhaps, in direct distance, 350 such miles. But there lies in the midway, a desert of five journies in breadth; and it is uncertain to what point Mr. Horneman reckons.

The dependencies are very extensive. The regions of the Harutsch, together with Wadan, Houn, (or Hun), and Sockna, all of which lie beyond the Harutsch, Mr. Horneman classes as belonging to Fezzan. Sockna should be a place of note, as its merchants are in possession of the chief part of the commerce, between Fezzan and Tripoly.

Mr. Horneman was informed that there are 101 inhabited places in Fezzan; and it is remarkable that this is precisely the number stated in M. Delisle’s Map of Africa, drawn in 1707; and Mr. Beaufoy’s informant said, little less than 100. But amongst these, there are few places of note, and still fewer whose positions are given; and in the report of these, Mr. Beaufoy’s informant differs in some respect, from Mr. Horneman.

Of the position of the capital, Mourzouk, I have already spoken, very fully.

Zuila, or Zawila, (probably the Cillaba of Pliny, lib. v. c. 5.) is placed, by Mr. Horneman’s route, at 59 G. miles to the eastward of Mourzouk. Mr. Beaufoy was told that it was 7 days journey distant, and the bearing, in his reports, varies from east to ENE. I have allowed E by N. This was the capital in the time of Edrisi:[42] and probably, from this circumstance, some of the neighbouring nations still call the country of Fezzan, Seela, as we are told by Mr. Horneman.

Temissa, another principal town, is placed by Mr. Horneman about 7 hours travelling, to the eastward of Zuila. This appears to be the Tamest of Edrisi, situated at 40 journies (of his scale) from Cairo.

Germa, or Jermah, is placed, by Mr. Beaufoy, southward from Zuila, and at nearly the same distance from Mourzouk. This is unquestionably the Garama of the Romans,[43] the capital of Fezzan, or Phazania, at the time of the Roman conquest; and which appears to have given the name of Garamantes to the whole nation. (As the discussion of this subject is already before the Public, in the Geography of Herodotus, Section XXII. the Author begs leave to refer to it). Mr. Horneman, who names this place Yerma, places it to the west of the capital: however, M. D’Anville has placed it under the name of Gherma, to the SE, with Tessoua (or Tosaûa) between the two; and this is Mr. Beaufoy’s arrangement of it. It should be noticed that M. D’Anville places these towns out of all proportion too far to the south-east of Mourzouk; being unconscious that Gherma, or Garama, was situated within Fezzan, although he recognises it as the capital of the Garamantes.

Kattron is placed SE from the capital, by Mr. Beaufoy, distant 60 road miles. This is the Gatron of Mr. Horneman, placed by him directly south. D’Anville names it Catron, and places it about SSW, distant 75 G. miles. In another place, where Mr. Horneman describes a march of troops from Fezzan to Burgu, he reckons Gatron S 54 miles from Mourzouk, in the way to Teghery; which being, by every account, to the west of south, from Mourzouk, it may be inferred that Katron lies to the southward, rather than to the south-eastward. The report of the distance differs but little between Mr. Horneman and Mr. Beaufoy. M. D’Anville probably was not so well informed as either of these gentlemen, in respect of the distance.

Mendra is said, by Mr. Beaufoy, to be 60 miles nearly south, from the capital. But this is the position of Katron, according to Horneman, and which, as we have seen, appears probable: and Mendra being a province, as well as a town, must be in some other situation. Possibly, it ought to change places with Katron, in Mr. Beaufoy’s description.

Teghery is given by Mr. Beaufoy, as the most westerly, or rather south-westerly town of Fezzan; and he places it SW 80 road miles from the capital. The same place appears in a route (mentioned before) from Mourzouk to Burgu, by Mr. Horneman, who places it SSW 33 such miles, from Katron; whence the position of Teghery would be about S ¾ W, 85 miles. But D’Anville places it at SSW ½ W 116 G. miles from Mourzouk; and although the distance in this case, as in that of Katron, is excessive, yet some regard ought to be had to the bearing. Accordingly, a mean of the three gives S 26 W; and the mean distance of Beaufoy and Horneman 68 G. miles, reduced to a direct line.

A place named Tai-garee appears in a route from Tunis to Kashna, communicated by Mr. Magrah, at fifteen journies from Gadamis.[44] It appears highly probable that this is the same place with Teghery in Fezzan: but the distance arising on the fifteen journies falls very short of the position of Teghery, placed as above. Could this point be ascertained, it would operate as a check on the position of Mourzouk; and I cannot but suspect, that this capital is somewhat more to the west, or north-west, than it now stands in the Map.

These facts are particularly noticed here, that future geographers may inquire, whether the route of the Tunis caravan, to Soudan, passes through Teghery in the western skirt of the country of Fezzan; as I conceive it doth: and also that there is some error in the combination of the geographical context, between Tunis, and the eastern positions, which prevents the closing of the lines, to the aforesaid town of Teghery.

One cannot dismiss the subject of Fezzan, without remarking, that the observations of Mr. Horneman have added another proof of its being the country intended by the ancient authors, for that of the Garamantes. For he has shewn us, that the black rocky Desert, the continuation of the black Harutsch, passes between Fezzan and Tripoly, and extends yet farther west, towards Gadamis; and as Pliny places the Mons Ater in this position, with a desert and the cities of the Garamantes beyond them, these cities cannot well be any others than those of Fezzan. (See above, [page 151]). I shall also mention, in its place, another circumstance brought to light by Mr. Horneman, concerning the Troglodytæ mentioned by Herodotus, in the neighbourhood of the Garamantes; and which induces a very strong belief that the people bordering on the south-east of Fezzan, are meant.

A Map, shewing the Progress of DISCOVERY & IMPROVEMENT, in the Geography of North Africa: Compiled by J. Rennell, 1798. Corrected in 1802.

Published according to Act of Parliament by James Rennell May 25th. 1798. J. Walker Sculp.

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