CONTENTS.

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[CHAPTER I].
THE ARCTIC LANDS.
The barren Grounds or Tundri.—Abundance of animal Life on the Tundri in Summer.—Their Silence and Desolation in Winter.—Protection afforded to Vegetation by the Snow.—Flower-growth in the highest Latitudes.—Character of Tundra Vegetation.—Southern Boundary-line of the barren Grounds.—Their Extent.—The forest Zone.—Arctic Trees.—Slowness of their Growth.—Monotony of the Northern Forests.—Mosquitoes.—The various Causes which determine the Severity of an Arctic Climate.—Insular and Continental Position.—Currents.—Winds.—Extremes of Cold observed by Sir E. Belcher and Dr. Kane.—How is Man able to support the Rigors of an Arctic Winter?—Proofs of a milder Climate having once reigned in the Arctic Regions.—Its Cause according to Dr. Oswald Heer.—Peculiar Beauties of the Arctic Regions.—Sunset.—Long lunar Nights.—The Aurora.[17]
[CHAPTER II].
ARCTIC LAND QUADRUPEDS AND BIRDS.
The Reindeer.—Structure of its Foot.—Clattering Noise when walking.—Antlers.—Extraordinary olfactory Powers.—The Icelandic Moss.—Present and Former Range of the Reindeer.—Its invaluable Qualities as an Arctic domestic Animal.—Revolts against Oppression.—Enemies of the Reindeer.—The Wolf.—The Glutton or Wolverine.—Gad-flies.—The Elk or Moose-deer.—The Musk-ox.—The Wild Sheep of the Rocky Mountains.—The Siberian Argali.—The Arctic Fox.—Its Burrows.—The Lemmings.—Their Migrations and Enemies.—Arctic Anatidæ.—The Snow-bunting.—The Lapland Bunting.—The Sea-eagle.—Drowned by a Dolphin.[34]
[CHAPTER III].
THE ARCTIC SEAS.
Dangers peculiar to the Arctic Sea.—Ice-fields.—Hummocks.—Collision of Ice-fields.—Icebergs.—Their Origin.—Their Size.—The Glaciers which give them Birth.—Their Beauty.—Sometimes useful Auxiliaries to the Mariner.—Dangers of anchoring to a Berg.—A crumbling Berg.—The Ice-blink.—Fogs.—Transparency of the Atmosphere.—Phenomena of Reflection and Refraction.—Causes which prevent the Accumulation of Polar Ice.—Tides.—Currents.—Ice a bad Conductor of Heat.—Wise Provisions of Nature.[45]
[CHAPTER IV].
ARCTIC MARINE ANIMALS.
Populousness of the Arctic Seas.—The Greenland Whale.—The Fin Whales.—The Narwhal.—The Beluga, or White Dolphin.—The Black Dolphin.—His wholesale Massacre on the Faeroe Islands.—The Orc, or Grampus.—The Seals.—The Walrus.—Its acute Smell.—History of a young Walrus.—Parental Affection.—The Polar Bear.—His Sagacity.—Hibernation of the She-bear.—Sea-birds.[59]
[CHAPTER V].
ICELAND.
Volcanic Origin of the Island.—The Klofa Jökul.—Lava-streams.—The Burning Mountains of Krisuvik.—The Mud-caldrons of Reykjahlid.—The Tungo-hver at Reykholt.—The Great Geysir.—The Strokkr.—Crystal Pools.—The Almanuagja.—The Surts-hellir.—Beautiful Ice-cave.—The Gotha Foss.—The Detti Foss.—Climate.—Vegetation.—Cattle.—Barbarous Mode of Sheep-sheering.—Reindeer.—Polar Bears.—Birds.—The Eider-duck.—Videy.—Vigr.—The Wild Swan.—The Raven.—The Jerfalcon.—The Giant auk, or Geirfugl.—Fish.—Fishing Season.—The White Shark.—Mineral Kingdom.—Sulphur.—Peat.—Drift-wood.[68]
[CHAPTER VI].
HISTORY OF ICELAND.
Discovery of the Island by Naddodr in 861.—Gardar.—Floki of the Ravens.—Ingolfr and Leif.—Ulfliot the Lawgiver.—The Althing.—Thingvalla.—Introduction of Christianity into the Island.—Frederick the Saxon and Thorwold the Traveller.—Thangbrand.—Golden Age of Icelandic Literature.—Snorri Sturleson.—The Island submits to Hakon, King of Norway, in 1254.—Long Series of Calamities.—Great Eruption of the Skapta Jökul in 1783.—Commercial Monopoly.—Better Times in Prospect.[89]
[CHAPTER VII].
THE ICELANDERS.
Skalholt.—Reykjavik.—The Fair.—The Peasant and the Merchant.—A Clergyman in his Cups.—Hay-making.—The Icelander’s Hut.—Churches.—Poverty of the Clergy.—Jon Thorlaksen.—The Seminary of Reykjavik.—Beneficial Influence of the Clergy.—Home Education.—The Icelander’s Winter’s Evening.—Taste for Literature.—The Language.—The Public Library at Reykjavik.—The Icelandic Literary Society.—Icelandic Newspapers.—Longevity.—Leprosy.—Travelling in Iceland.—Fording the Rivers.—Crossing of the Skeidara by Mr. Holland.—A Night’s Bivouac.[98]
[CHAPTER VIII].
THE WESTMAN ISLANDS.
The Westmans.—Their extreme Difficulty of Access.—How they became peopled.—Heimaey.—Kaufstathir and Ofanleyte.—Sheep-hoisting.—Egg-gathering.—Dreadful Mortality among the Children.—The Ginklofi.—Gentleman John.—The Algerine Pirates.—Dreadful Sufferings of the Islanders.[114]
[CHAPTER IX].
FROM DRONTHEIM TO THE NORTH CAPE.
Mild Climate of the Norwegian Coast.—Its Causes.—The Norwegian Peasant.—Norwegian Constitution.—Romantic coast Scenery.—Drontheim.—Greiffenfeld Holme and Väre.—The Sea-eagle.—The Herring-fisheries.—The Lofoten Islands.—The Cod-fisheries.—Wretched Condition of the Fishermen.—Tromsö.—Altenfiord.—The Copper Mines.—Hammerfest the most northern Town in the World.—The North Cape.[120]
[CHAPTER X].
SPITZBERGEN—BEAR ISLAND—JAN MEYEN.
The west Coast of Spitzbergen.—Ascension of a Mountain by Dr. Scoresby.—His Excursion along the Coast.—A stranded Whale.—Magdalena Bay.—Multitudes of Sea-birds.—Animal Life.—Midnight Silence.—Glaciers.—A dangerous Neighborhood.—Interior Plateau.—Flora of Spitzbergen.—Its Similarity with that of the Alps above the Snow-line.—Reindeer.—The hyperborean Ptarmigan.—Fishes.—Coal.—Drift-wood.—Discovery of Spitzbergen by Barentz, Heemskerk, and Ryp.—Brilliant Period of the Whale-fishery.—Coffins.—Eight English Sailors winter in Spitzbergen, 1630.—Melancholy Death of some Dutch Volunteers.—Russian Hunters.—Their Mode of wintering in Spitzbergen.—Scharostin.—Walrus-ships from Hammerfest and Tromsö.—Bear or Cherie Island.—Bennet.—Enormous Slaughter of Walruses.—Mildness of its Climate.—Mount Misery.—Adventurous Boat-voyage of some Norwegian Sailors.—Jan Meyen.—Beerenberg.[131]
[CHAPTER XI].
NOVA ZEMBLA.
The Sea of Kara.—Loschkin.—Rosmysslow.—Lütke.—Krotow.—Pachtussow.—Sails along the eastern Coast of the Southern Island to Matoschkin Schar.—His second Voyage and Death.—Meteorological Observations of Ziwolka.—The cold Summer of Nova Zembla.—Von Baer’s scientific Voyage to Nova Zembla.—His Adventures in Matoschkin Schar.—Storm in Kostin Schar.—Sea Bath and votive Cross.—Botanical Observations.—A natural Garden.—Solitude and Silence.—A Bird Bazar.—Hunting Expeditions of the Russians to Nova Zembla.[147]
[CHAPTER XII].
THE LAPPS.
Their ancient History and Conversion to Christianity.—Self-denial and Poverty of the Lapland Clergy.—Their singular Mode of Preaching.—Gross Superstition of the Lapps.—The Evil Spirit of the Woods.—The Lapland Witches.—Physical Constitution of the Lapps.—Their Dress.—The Fjälllappars.—Their Dwellings.—Store-houses.—Reindeer Pens.—Milking the Reindeer.—Migration.—The Lapland Dog.—Skiders, or Skates.—The Sledge, or Pulka.—Natural Beauties of Lapland.—Attachment of the Lapps to their Country.—Bear-hunting.—Wolf-hunting.—Mode of Living of the wealthy Lapps.—How they kill the Reindeer.—Visiting the Fair.—Mammon Worship.—Treasure-hiding.—“Tabak, or Braende.”—Affectionate Disposition of the Lapps.—The Skogslapp.—The Fisherlapp.[156]
[CHAPTER XIII].
MATTHIAS ALEXANDER CASTRÉN.
His Birthplace and first Studies.—Journey in Lapland, 1838.—The Iwalojoki.—The Lake of Enara.—The Pastor of Utzjoki.—From Rowaniémi to Kemi.—Second Voyage, 1841–44.—Storm on the White Sea.—Return to Archangel.—The Tundras of the European Samoïedes.—Mesen.—Universal Drunkenness.—Sledge Journey to Pustosersk.—A Samoïede Teacher.—Tundra Storms.—Abandoned and alone in the Wilderness.—Pustosersk.—Our Traveller’s Persecutions at Ustsylmsk and Ishemsk.—The Uusa.—Crossing the Ural.—Obdorsk.—Second Siberian Journey, 1845–48.—Overflowing of the Obi.—Surgut.—Krasnojarsk.—Agreeable Surprise.—Turuchansk.—Voyage down the Jenissei.—Castrén’s Study at Plachina.—From Dudinka to Tolstoi Noss.—Frozen Feet.—Return Voyage to the South.—Frozen fast on the Jenissei.—Wonderful Preservation.—Journey across the Chinese Frontiers, and to Transbaikalia.—Return to Finland.—Professorship at Helsingfors.—Death of Castrén, 1855.[168]
[CHAPTER XIV].
THE SAMOÏEDES.
Their Barbarism.—Num, or Jilibeambaertje.—Shamanism.—Samoïede Idols.—Sjadæi.—Hahe.—The Tadebtsios, or Spirits.—The Tadibes, or Sorcerers.—Their Dress.—Their Invocations.—Their conjuring Tricks.—Reverence paid to the Dead.—A Samoïede Oath.—Appearance of the Samoïedes.—Their Dress.—A Samoïede Belle.—Character of the Samoïedes.—Their decreasing Numbers.—Traditions of ancient Heroes.[179]
[CHAPTER XV].
THE OSTIAKS.
What is the Obi?—Inundations.—An Ostiak summer Yourt.—Poverty of the Ostiak Fishermen.—A winter Yourt.—Attachment of the Ostiaks to their ancient Customs.—An Ostiak Prince.—Archery.—Appearance and Character of the Ostiaks.—The Fair of Obdorsk.[185]
[CHAPTER XVI].
CONQUEST OF SIBERIA BY THE RUSSIANS—THEIR VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY ALONG THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA.
Ivan the Terrible.—Strogonoff.—Yermak, the Robber and Conqueror.—His Expeditions to Siberia.—Battle of Tobolsk.—Yermak’s Death.—Progress of the Russians to Ochotsk.—Semen Deshnew.—Condition of the Siberian Natives under the Russian Yoke.—Voyages of Discovery in the Reign of the Empress Anna.—Prontschischtschew.—Chariton and Demetrius Laptew.—An Arctic Heroine.—Schalaurow.—Discoveries in the Sea of Bering and in the Pacific Ocean.—The Lächow Islands.—Fossil Ivory.—New Siberia.—The wooden Mountains.—The past Ages of Siberia.[191]
[CHAPTER XVII].
SIBERIA—FUR-TRADE AND GOLD-DIGGINGS.
Siberia.—Its immense Extent and Capabilities.—The Exiles.—Mentschikoff.—Dolgorouky.—Münich.—The Criminals.—The free Siberian Peasant.—Extremes of Heat and Cold.—Fur-bearing Animals.—The Sable.—The Ermine.—The Siberian Weasel.—The Sea-otter.—The black Fox.—The Lynx.—The Squirrel.—The varying Hare.—The Suslik.—Importance of the Fur-trade for the Northern Provinces of the Russian Empire.—The Gold-diggings of Eastern Siberia.—The Taiga.—Expenses and Difficulties of searching Expeditions.—Costs of Produce, and enormous Profits of successful Speculators.—Their senseless Extravagance.—First Discovery of Gold in the Ural Mountains.—Jakowlew and Demidow.—Nishne-Tagilsk.[204]
[CHAPTER XVIII].
MIDDENDORFF’S ADVENTURES IN TAIMURLAND.
For what Purpose was Middendorff’s Voyage to Taimurland undertaken?—Difficulties and Obstacles.—Expedition down the Taimur River to the Polar Sea.—Storm on Taimur Lake.—Loss of the Boat.—Middendorff ill and alone in 75° N. Lat.—Saved by a grateful Samoïede.—Climate and Vegetation of Taimurland.[220]
[CHAPTER XIX].
THE JAKUTS.
Their energetic Nationality.—Their Descent.—Their gloomy Character.—Summer and Winter Dwellings.—The Jakut Horse.—Incredible Powers of Endurance of the Jakuts.—Their Sharpness of Vision.—Surprising local Memory.—Their manual Dexterity.—Leather, Poniards, Carpets.—Jakut Gluttons.—Superstitious Fear of the Mountain-spirit Ljeschei.—Offerings of Horse-hair.—Improvised Songs.—The River Jakut.[228]
[CHAPTER XX].
WRANGELL.
His distinguished Services as an Arctic Explorer.—From Petersburg to Jakutsk in 1820.—Trade of Jakutsk.—From Jakutsk to Nishne-Kolymsk.—The Badarany.—Dreadful Climate of Nishne-Kolymsk.—Summer Plagues.—Vegetation.—Animal Life.—Reindeer-hunting.—Famine.—Inundations.—The Siberian Dog.—First Journeys over the Ice of the Polar Sea, and Exploration of the Coast beyond Cape Shelagskoi in 1821.—Dreadful Dangers and Hardships.—Matiuschkin’s Sledge-journey over the Polar Sea in 1822.—Last Adventures on the Polar Sea.—A Run for Life.—Return to St. Petersburg.[233]
[CHAPTER XXI].
THE TUNGUSI.
Their Relationship to the Mantchou.—Dreadful Condition of the outcast Nomads.—Character of the Tungusi.—Their Outfit for the Chase.—Bear-hunting.—Dwellings.—Diet.—A Night’s Halt with Tungusi in the Forest.—Ochotsk.[244]
[CHAPTER XXII].
GEORGE WILLIAM STELLER.
His Birth.—Enters the Russian Service.—Scientific Journey to Kamchatka.—Accompanies Bering on his second Voyage of Discovery.—Lands on the Island of Kaiak.—Shameful Conduct of Bering.—Shipwreck on Bering Island.—Bering’s Death.—Return to Kamchatka.—Loss of Property.—Persecutions of the Siberian Authorities.—Frozen to Death at Tjumen.[248]
[CHAPTER XXIII].
KAMCHATKA.
Climate.—Fertility.—Luxuriant Vegetation.—Fish.—Sea-birds.—Kamchatkan Bird-catchers.—The Bay of Avatscha.—Petropavlosk.—The Kamchatkans.—Their physical and moral Qualities.—The Fritillaria Sarrana.—The Muchamor.—Bears.—Dogs.[254]
[CHAPTER XXIV].
THE TCHUKTCHI.
The Land of the Tchuktchi.—Their independent Spirit and commercial Enterprise.—Perpetual Migrations.—The Fair of Ostrownoje.—Visit in a Tchuktch Polog.—Races.—Tchuktch Bayaderes.—The Tennygk, or Reindeer Tchuktchi.—The Onkilon, or Sedentary Tchuktchi.—Their Mode of Life.[262]
[CHAPTER XXV].
BERING SEA—THE RUSSIAN FUR COMPANY—THE ALEUTS.
Bering Sea.—Unalaska.—The Pribilow Islands.—St. Matthew.—St. Laurence.—Bering’s Straits.—The Russian Fur Company.—The Aleuts.—Their Character.—Their Skill and Intrepidity in hunting the Sea-otter.—The Sea-bear.—Whale-chasing.—Walrus-slaughter.—The Sea-lion.[268]
[CHAPTER XXVI].
ALASKA.
Purchase of Alaska by the United States.—The Russian American Telegraph Scheme.—Whymper’s Trip up the Yukon.—Dogs.—The Start.—Extempore Water-filter.—Snow-shoes.—The Frozen Yukon.—Under-ground Houses.—Life at Nulato.—Cold Weather.—Auroras.—Approach of Summer.—Breaking-up of the Ice.—Fort Yukon.—Furs.—Descent of the Yukon.—Value of Goods.—Arctic and Tropical Life.—Moose-hunting.—Deer-corrals.—Lip Ornaments.—Canoes.—Four-post Coffin.—The Kenaian Indians.—The Aleuts.—Value of Alaska.[277]
[CHAPTER XXVII].
THE ESQUIMAUX.
Their wide Extension.—Climate of the Regions they inhabit.—Their physical Appearance.—Their Dress.—Snow Huts.—The Kayak, or the Baidar.—Hunting Apparatus and Weapons.—Enmity between the Esquimaux and the Red Indian.—The “Bloody Falls.”—Chase of the Reindeer.—Bird-catching.—Whale-hunting.—Various Stratagems employed to catch the Seal.—The “Keep-kuttuk.”—Bear-hunting.—Walrus-hunting.—Awaklok and Myouk.—The Esquimaux Dog.—Games and Sports.—Angekoks.—Moral Character.—Self-reliance.—Intelligence.—Iligliuk.—Commercial Eagerness of the Esquimaux.—Their Voracity.—Seasons of Distress.[290]
[CHAPTER XXVIII].
THE FUR-TRADE OF THE HUDSON’S BAY TERRITORIES.
The Coureur des Bois.—The Voyageur.—The Birch-bark Canoe.—The Canadian Fur-trade in the last Century.—The Hudson’s Bay Company.—Bloody Feuds between the North-west Company of Canada and the Hudson’s Bay Company.—Their Amalgamation into a new Company in 1821.—Reconstruction of the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1863.—Forts or Houses.—The Attihawmeg.—Influence of the Company on its savage Dependents.—The Black Bear, or Baribal.—The Brown Bear.—The Grizzly Bear.—The Raccoon.—The American Glutton.—The Pine Marten.—The Pekan, or Wood-shock.—The Chinga.—The Mink.—The Canadian Fish-otter.—The Crossed Fox.—The Black or Silvery Fox.—The Canadian Lynx, or Pishu.—The Ice-hare.—The Beaver.—The Musquash.[304]
[CHAPTER XXIX].
THE CREE INDIANS, OR EYTHINYUWUK.
The various Tribes of the Crees.—Their Conquests and subsequent Defeat.—Their Wars with the Blackfeet.—Their Character.—Tattooing.—Their Dress.—Fondness for their Children.—The Cree Cradle.—Vapor Baths.—Games.—Their religious Ideas.—The Cree Tartarus and Elysium.[319]
[CHAPTER XXX].
THE TINNÉ INDIANS.
The various Tribes of the Tinné Indians.—The Dog-ribs.—Clothing.—The Hare Indians.—Degraded State of the Women.—Practical Socialists.—Character.—Cruelty to the Aged and Infirm.[327]
[CHAPTER XXXI].
THE LOUCHEUX, OR KUTCHIN INDIANS.
The Countries they inhabit.—Their Appearance and Dress.—Their Love of Finery.—Condition of the Women.—Strange Customs.—Character.—Feuds with the Esquimaux.—Their suspicious and timorous Lives.—Pounds for catching Reindeer.—Their Lodges.[331]
[CHAPTER XXXII].
ARCTIC VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY, FROM THE CABOTS TO BAFFIN.
First Scandinavian Discoverer of America.—The Cabots.—Willoughby and Chancellor (1553–1554).—Stephen Burrough (1556).—Frobisher (1576–1578).—Davis (1585–1587).—Barentz, Cornelis, and Brant (1594).—Wintering of the Dutch Navigators in Nova Zembla (1596–1597).—John Knight (1606).—Murdered by the Esquimaux.—Henry Hudson (1607–1609).—Baffin (1616).[335]
[CHAPTER XXXIII].
ARCTIC VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY, FROM BAFFIN TO M’CLINTOCK.
Buchan and Franklin.—Ross and Parry (1818).—Discovery of Melville Island.—Winter Harbor (1819–1820).—Franklin’s first land Journey.—Dreadful Sufferings.—Parry’s second Voyage (1821–1823).—Iligliuk.—Lyon (1824).—Parry’s third Voyage (1824).—Franklin’s second land Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea.—Beechey.—Parry’s sledge Journey towards the Pole.—Sir John Ross’s second Journey.—Five Years in the Arctic Ocean.—Back’s Discovery of Great Fish River.—Dease and Simpson (1837–1839).—Franklin and Crozier’s last Voyage (1845).—Searching Expeditions.—Richardson and Rae.—Sir James Ross.—Austin.—Penny.—De Haven.—Franklin’s first Winter-quarters discovered by Ommaney.—Kennedy and Bellot.—Inglefield.—Sir E. Belcher.—Kellett.—M’Clure’s Discovery of the North-west Passage.—Collinson.—Bellot’s Death.—Dr. Rae learns the Death of the Crews of the “Erebus” and “Terror.”—Sir Leopold M’Clintock.[344]
[CHAPTER XXXIV].
KANE AND HAYES.
Kane sails up Smith’s Sound in the “Advance” (1853).—Winters in Rensselaer Bay.—Sledge Journey along the Coast of Greenland.—The Three-brother Turrets.—Tennyson’s Monument.—The Great Humboldt Glacier.—Dr. Hayes crosses Kennedy Channel.—Morton’s Discovery of Washington Land.—Mount Parry.—Kane resolves upon a second Wintering in Rensselaer Bay.—Departure and Return of Part of the Crew.—Sufferings of the Winter.—The Ship abandoned.—Boat Journey to Upernavik.—Kane’s Death in the Havana (1857).—Dr. Hayes’s Voyage in 1860.—He winters at Port Foulke.—Crosses Kennedy Channel.—Reaches Cape Union, the most northern known Land upon the Globe.—Koldewey.—Plans for future Voyages to the North Pole.[365]
[CHAPTER XXXV].
NEWFOUNDLAND.
Its desolate Aspect.—Forests.—Marshes.—Barrens.—Ponds.—Fur-bearing Animals.—Severity of Climate.—St. John’s.—Discovery of Newfoundland by the Scandinavians.—Sir Humphrey Gilbert.—Rivalry of the English and French.—Importance of the Fisheries.—The Banks of Newfoundland.—Mode of Fishing.—Throaters, Headers, Splitters, Salters, and Packers.—Fogs and Storms.—Seal-catching.[376]
[CHAPTER XXXVI].
GREENLAND.
A mysterious Region.—Ancient Scandinavian Colonists.—Their Decline and Fall.—Hans Egede.—His Trials and Success.—Foundation of Godthaab.—Herrenhuth Missionaries.—Lindenow.—The Scoresbys.—Clavering.—The Danish Settlements in Greenland.—The Greenland Esquimaux.—Seal-catching.—The White Dolphin.—The Narwhal.—Shark-fishery.—Fiskernasset.—Birds.—Reindeer-hunting.—Indigenous Plants.—Drift-wood.—Mineral Kingdom.—Mode of Life of the Greenland Esquimaux.—The Danes in Greenland.—Beautiful Scenery.—Ice Caves.[382]
[CHAPTER XXXVII].
THE ANTARCTIC OCEAN.
Comparative View of the Antarctic and Arctic Regions.—Inferiority of Climate of the former.—Its Causes.—The New Shetland Islands.—South Georgia.—The Peruvian Stream.—Sea-birds.—The Giant Petrel.—The Albatross.—The Penguin.—The Austral Whale.—The Hunchback.—The Fin-back.—The Grampus.—Battle with a Whale.—The Sea-elephant.—The Southern Sea-bear.—The Sea-leopard.—Antarctic Fishes.[391]
[CHAPTER XXXVIII].
ANTARCTIC VOYAGES OF DISCOVERY.
Cook’s Discoveries in the Antarctic Ocean.—Bellinghausen.—Weddell.—Biscoe.—Balleny.—Dumont d’Urville.—Wilkes.—Sir James Ross crosses the Antarctic Circle on New Year’s Day, 1841.—Discovers Victoria Land.—Dangerous Landing on Franklin Island.—An Eruption of Mount Erebus.—The Great Ice Barrier.—Providential Escape.—Dreadful Gale.—Collision.—Hazardous Passage between two Icebergs.—Termination of the Voyage.[401]
[CHAPTER XXXIX].
THE STRAIT OF MAGELLAN.
Description of the Strait.—Western Entrance.—Point Dungeness.—The Narrows.—Saint Philip’s Bay.—Cape Froward.—Grand Scenery.—Port Famine.—The Sedger River.—Darwin’s Ascent of Mount Tarn.—The Bachelor River.—English Reach.—Sea Reach.—South Desolation.—Harbor of Mercy.—Williwaws.—Discovery of the Strait by Magellan (October 20, 1521).—Drake.—Sarmiento.—Cavendish.—Schouten and Le Maire.—Byron.—Bougainville.—Wallis and Carteret.—King and Fitzroy.—Settlement at Punta Arenas.—Increasing Passage through the Strait.—A future Highway of Commerce.[408]
[CHAPTER XL].
PATAGONIA AND THE PATAGONIANS.
Difference of Climate between East and West Patagonia.—Extraordinary Aridity of East Patagonia.—Zoology.—The Guanaco.—The Tucutuco.—The Patagonian Agouti.—Vultures.—The Turkey-buzzard.—The Carrancha.—The Chimango.—Darwin’s Ostrich.—The Patagonians.—Exaggerated Accounts of their Stature.—Their Physiognomy and Dress.—Religious Ideas.—Superstitions.—Astronomical Knowledge.—Division into Tribes.—The Tent, or Toldo.—Trading Routes.—The great Cacique.—Introduction of the Horse.—Industry.—Amusements.—Character.[417]
[CHAPTER XLI].
THE FUEGIANS.
Their miserable Condition.—Degradation of Body and Mind.—Powers of Mimicry.—Notions of Barter.—Causes of their low State of Cultivation.—Their Food.—Limpets.—Cyttaria Darwini.—Constant Migrations.—The Fuegian Wigwam.—Weapons.—Their probable Origin.—Their Number, and various Tribes.—Constant Feuds.—Cannibalism.—Language.—Adventures of Fuegia Basket, Jemmy Button, and York Minster.—Missionary Labors.—Captain Gardiner.—His lamentable End.[425]
[CHAPTER XLII].
CHARLES FRANCIS HALL AND THE INNUITS.
Hall’s Expedition.—His early Life.—His reading of Arctic Adventure.—His Resolve.—His Arctic Outfit.—Sets sail on the “George Henry.”—The Voyage.—Kudlago.—Holsteinborg, Greenland.—Population of Greenland.—Sails for Davis’s Strait.—Character of the Innuits.—Wreck of the “Rescue.”—Ebierbing and Tookoolito.—Their Visit to England.—Hall’s first Exploration.—European and Innuit Life in the Arctic Regions.—Building an Igloo.—Almost Starved.—Fight for Food with Dogs.—Ebierbing arrives with a Seal.—How he caught it.—A Seal-feast.—The Innuits and Seals.—The Polar Bear.—How he teaches the Innuits to catch Seals.—At a Seal-hole.—Dogs as Seal-hunters.—Dogs and Bears.—Dogs and Reindeers.—Innuits and Walruses.—More about Igloos.—Innuit Implements.—Uses of the Reindeer.—Innuit Improvidence.—A Deer-feast.—A frozen Delicacy.—Whale-skin as Food.—Whale-gum.—How to eat Whale Ligament.—Raw Meat.—The Dress of the Innuits.—A pretty Style.—Religious Ideas of the Innuits.—Their kindly Character.—Treatment of the Aged and Infirm.—A Woman abandoned to die.—Hall’s Attempt to rescue her.—The Innuit Nomads, without any form of Government.—Their Numbers diminishing.—A Sailor wanders away.—Hall’s Search for him.—Finds him frozen to death.—The Ship free from Ice.—Preparations to return.—Reset in the Ice-pack.—Another Arctic Winter.—Breaking up of the Ice.—Departure for Home.—Tookoolito and her Child “Butterfly.”—Death of “Butterfly.”—Arrival at Home.—Results of Hall’s Expedition.—Innuit Traditions.—Discovery of Frobisher Relics.—Hall undertakes a second Expedition.—His Statement of its Object and Prospects.—Last Tidings of Hall.[433]