Transcribed from the 1838 Henry Colburn edition by David Price. Many thanks to Mold Library for allowing their copy to be consulted.
THE
PEDESTRIAN’S GUIDE
THROUGH
NORTH WALES.
A TOUR
PERFORMED IN 1837.
BY
G. J. BENNETT, ESQ.
WITH TWENTY ETCHINGS,
BY A. CLINT.
LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN PUBLISHER,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1838.
LONDON:
SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.
ILLUSTRATIONS, &c.
Page | ||
1 | Caernarvonshire, fromAnglesea. | Title |
2 | Chirk Castle. | |
3 | Llangollen. | |
4 | Font in the grounds of PlasNewydd. | |
5 | Castle Dinas, Bran. | |
6 | Valle Crucis Abbey. | |
7 | Pillar of Eliseg. | |
8 | Bala Lake. | |
9 | Cader Idris, from the BalaRoad. | |
10 | Parliament House of OwenGlyndwr. | |
11 | View from Carreg ySaeth. | |
12 | Harlech Castle. | |
13 | The Vale of Maentwrog. | |
14 | The Raven Fall, nearMaentwrog. | |
15 | Pont Aber Glaslyn. | |
16 | Snowdon, from the Pass ofLlyn Gwynant. | |
17 | Pass of Llanberis. | |
18 | The Coffin of LeolinusMagnus. | |
19 | Conway Castle. | |
20 | Aber. | |
WELSH MELODIES, ETC. | ||
21 | Guide for thePedestrian. | |
22 | The Fairy’sSerenade. | |
23 | Battle Song. | |
24 | Jenny Davies. | |
25 | Mountain Mary. | |
26 | Dafydd ap Shenkin. | |
27 | Farewell to NorthWales. | |
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I. | |
Page | |
Preliminary observations—Preparations for atour—Coach conversation—A breakfast and an Americantraveller—Route to Birmingham—A dinner—Road toWolverhampton—Eccentric passengers—Lord Hill’smonument—Shrewsbury. | |
CHAPTER II. | |
Walk to Montford Bridge—The Severn—Anagreeable companion—Delights of a Tourist—HistrionicAmbition—Wittington—The Castle—TheChurch—Curious Epitaphs. | |
CHAPTER III. | |
Chirk—The Aqueduct—The Deserted, alegend—Description of Chirk Castle—Sketch—ThePark—Legend of the enchanted Stag—The Vale ofLlangollen—Account of the Aqueduct calledPont-y-Cysylltau—Stanzas formusic—Llangollen—The Hand in Hand—A view of thevillage. | |
Waking prospect—Plas Newydd and thegrounds—Lines written at the font—Castle Dinas,Bran—Legend of Mick Mallow—View of theCastle—Legend of the Minstrel Fay—OriginalAir—Festival. | |
CHAPTER V. | |
Valle Crucis—The Abbey—Lines written in theruins—A loquacious porteress—A view of theAbbey—The pillar of Eliseg—A parting—Road toCorwen—Vale of the Dee—The musicalpedestrian—War song—Over the hills and faraway—An adventure—Corwen—TheChurch—College—Cross and Circle—AirLlwyn-own—Route to Llandrillo—An old soldier and hisson—Village of Llandrillo—A fair—Vale ofEdeyrnion—Arrival at Bala. | |
CHAPTER VI. | |
Bala—The Lake—A Meeting ofMagistrates—The Doctor—Rhewlas—Lines written atRhewlas—Farewell to the Bull’s Head—AJolter—Llanthyn—Vale of Drwstynrnt—Legend ofhandsome Hugh and the Fairy—CaderIdris—Dolgelley—Song “MountainMary”—The Town Hall—Parliament House—St.Mary’s Church—Inns—Angling Station,Doluwcheogryd—The Cataracts of Rhaiadr Du and Pistyll yCain—Nannau Park—Anecdote of Owen Glyndwr and HowellSele—Road to Barmouth—Arrival—Inns—A Walkon the sands. | |
Description of Barmouth—Sketch of the Town—TheEstuary—Friar’s Island—Dinas Gortin—Earlof Richmond—Anecdote of the men of Ardudwy, and the men ofDenbighshire—Mostyn Hall—A pic-nic party—LlynCwm Bychan—Carreg y Saeth—The Witch of CwmBychan—Legendary Tale—Bwlch Tyddiad—A mountainride and a regretful farewell | |
CHAPTER VIII. | |
Harlech—The Inn—The Castle—Anecdote ofDafydd ap Ivan ap Einion—Road toMaentwrog—View—A persevering Cobbler—The OakleyArms—Pleasures of Fly fishing—NewCompanions—Angling Stations—An Adventure—Roadto Tremadoc—Tan y Bwlch—Port Madoc Breakwater andMountain Scenery described—Tremadoc—Tan yrAllt—Pont Aber Glas Llyn—Lines written at theBridge—Beddgelert—The Inn—Story of aPointer. | |
CHAPTER IX. | |
Departure from Beddgelert—Vortigern’sHill—Snowdon—Llynn Gwynant—Lines written uponLlynn Gwynant—Gwrydd—Public House—LakeFishing—A Night Adventure—Pass ofLlanberis—Legend of the Giant’s Night-Cap—TheLakes—The Castle of Dolbadarn and Legend—View ofLlanberis. | |
The church of Llanberis—Monumentalinscriptions—Story of little John Closs—ThePellings—Capel Curig—Moel Siabod—Castle ofDolwyddélan—Falls of Benclog—LlynOgwen—Llyn Idwal—Story of Idwal—Route toLlanrwst—Falls of Rhaiadr y Wennol—Bettws yCoed—The church—Monuments—Pont y Pair—Ogoap Shenkin, a Legend—Glee, “Shenkin was a noblefellow!” | |
CHAPTER XI. | |
A Mistake—Road to Llanrwst—GwydirCastle—Llanrwst Shaking Bridge—Inn—TheTheatre—Town Hall—Free Schools—AlmsHouses—Rhaiadr y Parc Mawr—LlynGierionydd—Taliesin—Trefriw—SlateQuarries—Conway—The Suspension Bridge—TheCastle—Local Customs—A Phrenologist—Excursionto the Ormes’ Head—The Smuggler—The Bump ofOrder. | |
CHAPTER XII. | |
Route to Aber—Penmaen Mawr—The petGoat—Aber—Legend of Llywelyn and the CaptiveKnight—Road from Aber to Bangor—PenrhynCastle—Bangor—Inns—The Cathedral—TheCastle—Free Schools—The Menai Bridge—Song,Farewell to North Wales, air, Ar Hyd y Nos—Conclusion | |
Appendix | |
PREFACE.
The Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is, that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may also have an opportunity of seeing the most interesting portion of it in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive lakes; or that where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the summits of which, a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the eye,—wherein the valleys, glens and wild ravines present an endless variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall pour forth their melody of never tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?
Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the former; while, in the route here represented to the Public,—within the reach of all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs, after a day’s ramble in whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the healthy and active should decidedly make use of their limbs, to bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights upon the ponys, which are always in readiness at the inns for that purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction, that the one is a most unnecessary burthen to the other.
For the etchings which illustrate this little work, the Author is indebted to his friend Mr. Alfred Clint, who accompanied him in his second tour, and whose judicious selection of subjects has given a value to the volume, which, without his aid, would have been deficient in its principal ornaments. There is no composition in any of the illustrations; they are the scenes of nature reflected in the mirror of art. Not a mountain or valley, grey ruin or waterfall, but is represented as it really is; and for the best reason in the world, viz. that any attempt to improve upon the subjects, would destroy their real beauty.
The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, and their happy ignorance of luxuries, give an enviable zest. Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to satisfy their utmost wishes.
“Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
He sees his little lot the lot of all.* * * * *
Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
But bind him to his native mountains more.”
DIRECTIONS
TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each letter, particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order therefore to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following rules.
In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are circumflex must be pronounced long, as
Bôn like the English Bone.
Bin, as Been.
C, as Can, but never soft as in City.
Ch, is pronounced as the Greek χ.
Dd, as the English Th in theme.
Ff, as F and double F in English.
G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial.
I, as I in king but never as in fire.
Ll, as L aspirated.
Th, as in thought.
U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss &c.
W, as double O in good, wood.
Y, as U in burn, but in the last syllable of a word; and in all monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in Sin.
By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place to which he may be journeying.