Transcribed from the 1853 Whittaker and Co. edition by David Price.
THE
TOURIST’S
GUIDE THROUGH NORTH WALES.
BY
G. J. BENNETT.
WITH ETCHINGS, BY A. CLINT.
London:
WHITTAKER AND CO., AVE MARIA LANE.
G. PHILIP & SON, LIVERPOOL; J. MORGAN, OSWESTRY.
1853.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
| 1 | Llangollen | facing Title Page. |
| 2 | Chirk Castle | [26] |
| 3 | Font in the Grounds of Plâs Newydd | [35] |
| 4 | Castell Dinas Brân | [39] |
| 5 | Valle Crucis Abbey | [40] |
| 6 | Pillar of Eliseg | [42] |
| 7 | Bala Lake | [50] |
| 8 | Cader Idris, from the Bala Road | [54] |
| 9 | Parliament House of Owen Glyndwr | [56] |
| 10 | View from Carreg y Saeth | [68] |
| 11 | Harlech Castle | [75] |
| 12 | The Vale of Maentwrog | [79] |
| 13 | The Raven Fall, near Maentwrog | [83] |
| 14 | Pont Aber Glaslyn | [88] |
| 15 | Snowdon, from the Pass of Llyn Gwynant | [92] |
| 16 | Pass of Llanberis | [96] |
| 17 | The Coffin of Leolinus Magnus | [114] |
| 18 | Conwy Castle | [119] |
PREFACE.
The Author’s object in offering to the Public the following pages is, that all who have a desire to examine the beauties of Welsh scenery may also have an opportunity of seeing the most interesting portion of it in a tour which will not occupy more than a month. The route described in this volume presents a variety of pictures which can scarcely be equalled, and certainly not surpassed, in any quarter of the globe. It is true there are hills higher far than any in Snowdonia, and valleys more extensive; but, while we are astonished at a description of the enormous magnitude of the Asiatic and American mountains, and the noble rivers, and sea-like lakes of the latter, let us take into our consideration which is the most desirable country to explore; that in which nature’s prodigies are so extensive that we can neither ascend the eminences, ford the rivers, nor view the opposite shores of the extensive lakes; or that where mountains may be scaled with ease, from the summits of which a series of glorious panoramas burst upon the eye,—wherein the valleys, glens, and wild ravines present an endless variety of sublimity and beauty, and the loud torrent and the waterfall pour forth their melody of never-tiring sweetness, to delight the ear?
Seas must be crossed, and miles of dreary and uninteresting country traversed, in wandering from one grand object to another in the former; while, in the route here represented to the Public—within the reach of all—repose and admiration charm the heart by turns, in the rich fertile valleys, lofty and wood-clad hills, or heather-mantled mountains, of North Wales. The traveller is likewise insured the comfort of a good inn, where he may rest his wearied limbs after a day’s ramble in whatever part of the district he chooses to select for his excursion; and the healthy and active should decidedly make use of their limbs, to bear them through this tour, in preference to the more easy and luxurious vehicle, and even to the equestrian mode of conveyance. A good horsewoman may venture into the dark defiles, or climb the craggy heights upon the ponies, which are always in readiness at the inns for that purpose; but between a man and his steed there will most assuredly be a strong feeling of sympathy created by a conviction that the one is a most unnecessary burthen to the other.
The peasantry are simple, honest, and obliging; and, as they trudge along, a spirit of freedom sparkles in their eyes, and seems to animate every action of their unfettered limbs. Though their fare is humble, they enjoy it with an appetite to which the bracing air of their hills, and their happy ignorance of luxuries, gives an enviable zest. Drunkenness is a vice almost unknown among these primitive mountaineers: milk is their common beverage, oatmeal cakes, and potatoes, with a plentiful supply of trout from their native streams, form their chief summer food; while, in winter, dry salted beef and mutton serve to satisfy their utmost wishes.
“Though poor the peasant’s hut, his feasts tho’ small,
He sees his little lot the lot of all.* * * *
Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear that hill which lifts him to the storms.
And, as a child, when scaring sounds molest,
Clings close and closer to the mother’s breast,
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind’s roar,
But bind him to his native mountains more.”
DIRECTIONS
TO THOSE UNACQUAINTED WITH THE WELSH LANGUAGE.
A knowledge of the Welsh alphabet is indispensable to those who are desirous of correctly pronouncing the necessary questions and answers that transpire upon the road. The names of places must effectually puzzle any tourist, who is not acquainted with the peculiar sound of each letter particularly where there are many consonants in a word. In order, therefore, to aid the traveller in Wales, I have selected the following rules.
In the Welsh alphabet there are no mutes; and all letters that are circumflex must be pronounced long, as
Bôn like the English bone.
Bin, as been.
C, always as K in English.
Ch, is pronounced as the Greek Χ.
Dd, as the English th in this, that, thou.
F, as V in English.
Ff as F and double F in English.
G, as G in good, but never soft as in genial.
I, as I in king, but never as in fire.
Ll, as L aspirated.
Th, as in thought.
U, as I in the English words bliss, kiss, &c.
W, as double O in good, wood.
Y, as U in burn; but in the last syllable of a word, and in all monosyllables except Y, Ydd, Ym, Yn, Yr, Ys, Fy, Dy, Myn, it is like I in Sin.
By attending to these rules, the stranger will easily make himself understood by the peasantry, and on his tours, in enquiring for any place to which he may be journeying.
GLOSSARY.
Ab, (or Ap,) the son of.
Aber, the junction of a river with the sea.
Allt, a hill; a mutation of gallt.
Annedd, a dwelling place.
Am, about.
Ar, upon. Arvon, bordering upon Môn, or Anglesey.
Ardal, a region.
Argae, an embankment.
Avon, a river.
Bâch, little; when joined to a substantive feminine, it is written vâch.
Bala, an outlet.
Ban, high, lofty. Plur. banau, heights, or eminences.
Banc, a bank.
Bâs, shallow.
Bedd, a grave.
Blaen, a point, upper end, or extremity.
Bôd, an abode, residence, habitation.
Bôn, the base.
Braenar, fallow land.
Braich, an arm.
Brîg, top, summit.
Brîth, speckled, mottled.
Bron, a breast, the slope of a hill.
Bryn, a hill, or mount. Pl. bryniau.
Buwch, a cow.
Bwlch, a pass, or defile. Pl. bylchau.
Câd, battle, war.
Cader, a chair.
Cae, a field. Pl. caeau.
Caer, a fortress, or fortified town.
Cantrev, a district containing 100 townships. A canton, a hundred.
Capel, a chapel.
Careg, a stone. Pl. ceryg.
Carn, a heap of stones. The hoof of a horse.
Carnedd, a heap of stones. Pl. carneddau.
Castell, a castle. Pl. cestyll.
Ceulan, bank of a river.
Cevn, the bank, ridge of a hill.
Cîl, a recess. Cilvach, a small recess.
Clawdd, a hedge, dyke. Clawdd Offa, Offa’s dyke.
Clogwyn, a precipice.
Côch, red.
Coed, trees. Sing. coeden, a tree.
Côr, a circle, a choir. Bangor, high choir.
Corlan, a sheepfold.
Cors, a bog, or fen.
Craig, a rock, a crag. Pl. creigiau.
Croes, a cross.
Crug, a hillock. Pl. crugion.
Cwm, a valley, dingle, glen.
Cymmer, the junction of two rivers.
Dau, two.
Dehau, south, the right side.
Din, dinas, a city, a fort, a fortified place on a hill.
Dôl, a meadow.
Drws, a doorway.
Du, black; hence dwrdu, the river Dee; literally, Black-water.
Dwy, two. (fem.)
Dwr, or dwvr, water. Pl. dyvroedd.
Eglwys, a church.
Erw, an acre.
Esgair, a leg, a long ridge of mountain.
Fordd, a road.
Fynnon, a fountain, a well.
Gaer, a mutation of caer, as y gaer, the fortress.
Gallt, a hill; in construction, allt.
Gardd, a garden.
Garth, a promontory.
Gelli, a grove of hazels.
Glan, the brink, bank; glan y môr, the sea side.
Glâs, blue, grey, green.
Glyn, a glen.
Gorsav, a station, stand.
Grug, heath.
Gwaelod, a bottom.
Gwaen, a large plain.
Gwern, watery meadow. Alder.
Gwydd, wood.
Gwyn, white. Fem. gwen, wen.
Gwyrdd, green. Fem. gwerdd, werdd.
Havod, a summer dwelling.
Hen, old. Hendre, old mansion.
Heol, a street.
Hir, long.
Iâl, open country.
Is, lower. Isav, lowest.
Llain, a long piece.
Llan, a church; a village with a church.
Llawr, a floor.
Llech, a flat stone, slate, slab.
Lluest, an encampment.
Llwyd, grey, hoary.
Llwyn, a grove, a bush, a copse.
Llyn, a lake, pool.
Llys, a court, a palace.
Maen, a stone. Pl. meini.
Maenor, a manor.
Maes, an open field.
Mall, bad, rotten.
Man, a place.
Mawn, peat. Mawnog, a turbary.
Mawr, great, large.
Melin, a mill.
Melyn, yellow.
Merthyr, a martyr.
Moel, bald, bare; a bare hill.
Môn, Anglesey.
Môr, the sea.
Morva, a marsh.
Mynach, a monk.
Mynydd, a mountain.
Nant, a brook, ravine, glen.
Neuadd, a hall.
Newydd, new.
Ochr, a side.
Pant, a hollow.
Parth, a division, a part.
Pen, a head.
Penmaen, a promontory, a rocky head.
Penrhyn, a promontory, a cape.
Pentrev, a village, a hamlet.
Perth, a brake, a thornbush.
Pistyll, a spout of water.
Plâs, a mansion, a hall.
Plwyv, a parish.
Pont, a bridge.
Porth, a gate, a ferry.
Pwll, a pit, a pool.
Rhaiadr, a cataract, a waterfall.
Rhiw, a slope.
Rhôs, a moor.
Rhudd, crimson, ruddy.
Rhyd, a ford. Rhydycroesau, the ford of the Crosses.
Sarn, a causeway.
Serth, steep, abrupt.
Swydd, an office, a county.
Tal, the head or front. Talcen, the forehead.
Tervyn, the boundary.
Tir, the earth.
Tommen, a tumulus.
Traeth, a sand.
Trev, a town.
Tri, three.
Troed, a foot. Pl. traed, feet.
Trwyn, a nose.
Twr, a tower.
Ty, a house. Pl. Tai, houses.
Tyddyn, a farm.
Tywyn, a strand, a sandy shore.
Uchav, highest.
Uwch, higher.
Y, the.
Yn, in.
Ynys, an island.
Yspytty, a hospital.
Ystlys, the side, the flank.
Ystrad, a flat, a vale.
Ystum, a bend.
Ystwyth, flexible.
THE ROUTE.
FIVE DAYS’ EXCURSION FROM CHESTER OR SHREWSBURY.
First Day.—Chester or Shrewsbury to Llangollen Road Station by rail, 20 miles; Llangollen, 5 m; Corwen, 10 m.
Second Day.—Bettws y Coed, 22½ m; Llanrwst, 5 m; Capel Curig, 10 m.
Third Day.—Llanberis, 10 m; Dolbadarn Castle and back, 4 m; Beddgelert, 12 m; Pont Aber Glaslyn and back, 3 m; Carnarvon, 13 m.
Fourth Day.—Bangor, 8 m; Plas Newydd, 5 m; Beaumaris, 6½ m.
Fifth Day.—Conwy, 14¼ m; Llandudno, Orme’s Head, back to Conwy, 10; and per rail to Chester, 45½ m.