V.—ANTHROPOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS ON DARDS AND KAFIRS IN DR. LEITNER’S SERVICE.

(Measurements in Centimetres.)

1. ABDUL GHAFÛR, KAFIR OF KAMÔZ, about 24 or 25 years of age.

Height, 168·5; hair, black; eyes, hazel; colour of face, ruddy; colour of body, very light brown; narrow forehead; high instep; big boned; length round the forehead, biggest circumference of head, 53·75; protruding and big ears; square face; long nose, slightly aquiline; good regular teeth; small beard; slight moustache and eyebrows; distance between eyebrows, ordinary; good chest; fine hand; well-made nails. Weight, 10 st. 2¾ lbs.

2. KHUDAYÁR, YASHKUN NÁGYRI; age 24.[116]

Height, 182; colour of body, light yellow brown; round the head, 52·5; teeth, good, regular; nose, very slightly aquiline; little growth on upper lip; none on cheeks; long, straight, coarse black hair; eyes, hazel; ears, not so protruding; better-proportioned forehead; small hand; good instep; foot bigger, in proportion, than hand (not so good as other’s hand); 80 pulse. Weight, 9 st. 10 lbs.

3. IBRAHÍM, RÔNO, NAGYRI; age 34.

Height, 162·3; round the head, 56·5; eyes, dark brown; big hands and feet; instep, good; colour, brown; good muscular foot; strong arms; hair, black; plentiful growth on upper lip; nose, aquiline; broad nostrils; full lips. Weight, 10 st. 12 lbs. ([No. 10 on Drawing 1 of Appendix IV.])

4. MATAVALLI, YASHKUN OF HUNZA; age 30.[116]

Height, 164·0; very hairy, including hands; round the head, 54·0; head, pyramidal pointed; sinister countenance; very big hands and feet; thin lips; great moustache, coarser hair; more flat-soled than rest. Weight, 9 st. 8½ lbs. (Full details in “[Comparative Table].”)

5. SULTAN ALI, YASHKUN OF NAGYR; age 35.

Height, 165·25; round the head 53·75; square head; retroussé, small nose; small mouth; red beard, plentiful; black hair; brown eyes; very big hands and feet, also instep. Weight, 9 st. 12 lbs. ([No. 11 on Drawing 1 of Appendix IV.])

6. KHUDADAD OF NAGYR; age 30.

Height, 163·3; round the head, 54·4; stupid expression; big chest; ordinary hands and feet; low forehead; rising head; very muscular; eyes, brown; complexion, brown; thickish nose; very narrow forehead; underhung jaw; lots of hair. Weight, 9 st. 12 lbs. ([No. 3 on Drawing 1 of Appendix IV.])

7. HATÁMU OF NAGYR; age 16.

Height, 162·1; round the head, 54·4 (broad head); low Grecian forehead; small nose; eyes, dark brown; light brown complexion; small hands and feet; regular, white teeth. Weight, 7 st. 13 lbs. (No. 4 of above Drawing.)

8. GHULAM MUHAMMAD, SHÎN OF GILGIT; age 38.[116]

Height, 161·0; round the head, 54; beard, prematurely grey; lost second incisor; small hands and feet; fair instep; brown eyes and complexion; nose, straight; ears all right. Weight 8 st. 5 lbs.

ANTHROPOLOGICAL. ETHNOLOGICAL.
([See also Drawing 1 of Appendix IV.])
Gilgiti (Ghulman Muhammad).Nagyri (Khudayar).Hunza Man (Matavalli). A Gabriali Student and two Messengers (A Chitrali and a Yasini), from a Brother of the late Mihtar Aman-ul-Mulk, Ruler of Chitral.

FURTHER MEASUREMENTS OF THE ABOVE MEN BY THE SCHWARZ SYSTEM.

(See explanations of these numbers further on, [page 5].)

Numbers by Schwarz.1. Abdul-Ghafûr, Kamôz Káfir.2. Khudayar Yashkun, Nagyri.3. Ibrahîm, Nagyri Róno.4.[117] Matavalli, Hunza Yashkun.5. Sultan Ali, Yashkun, Nagyri.6. Khudadád Nagyri.7. Hatamu Nagyri.8. Ghulam Muhamad, Gilgiti Shîn.
283026·7·529·231·525·528·524·729·5
291524·7·51413·51411·7531·115·5
3014·513·514·513·613·7·514·212·714
3110·2·58·7·59·59·68·7·59·28·19·1
323·7·53·533·7·53·253·33·83·9
343·944·64·13·63·63·43·5
355·544·7·554·15·54·54·8
361411·211·7·511·2511·211·211·110·2
3718·7·520·2·520·620·81920·7519·218·5
394644·7·54844·544·548·641·539·6

DESCRIPTION OF JAMSHÉD, THE SIAH PÔSH KAFIR.

Jamshêd of Katár, the nephew of General Feramorz, the renowned Kafir General in the service of the late Amir Sher Alí of Kabul, was a confidential orderly both in the service of the Amir Sher Alí and in that of Yakúb Khan, whose cause he espoused against that of his father, in consequence of which, when his master was imprisoned, he fled to Rawalpindi, where he came to me. He had witnessed some of the most exciting scenes in modern Kabul history, had risen to the rank of Major, and had served with Prince Iskandar of Herát, whom he afterwards again met in London.

In 1872 I published from Jamshêd’s dictation an account of the “Adventures of Jamshèd, a Siah Pôsh Kafir, and his wanderings with Amir Sher Alí,” and also “a statement about slavery in Kabul, etc.,” which contained the names of places and tribes previously unknown to Geographers and Ethnographers, as well as historical and political material, the value of which has been proved by subsequent events. I took him with me to England, not only on account of the interest which exists in certain scientific quarters as regards the “mysterious race” of which he was a member, but also in order to draw the attention of the Anti-slavery Society and of Government to the kidnapping of Kafirs—the supposed “poor relations” of the European—which is carried on by the Afghans.

His measurement was taken, according to the systems of both Broca and Schwarz (of the Novara expedition), by Dr. Beddoe, and the type appeared to approach nearest to that of the slavonized Macedonians of the Herzegovina, like one of whose inhabitants he looked, thus creating far less attention, especially when dressed à l’européenne in Europe, than he did at Lahore, where Lord Northbrook saw him. The Anti-slavery Society sent him to the Chiefs of Katár with a communication to the effect that Englishmen strongly disapproved of slavery, and that they should represent their case to the Panjab Government. A curious incident in connection with his presence in England may be mentioned. It was the 6th May, 1874, the day of the “Two Thousand”; the result of the Newmarket race was eagerly expected, when the Globe came out with the following titles placed on the posters: “Result of the ‘Two Thousand.’” “An Interesting Race” (the latter was an article on the race of the Siah Pôsh Kafirs). The result may be imagined. Hundreds of Welshers plunged into an account of the Siah Pôsh Kafirs under the notion that they were going to have a great treat in a telegraphic description of a Newmarket race. I was informed that the wrath of the sporting roughs who besieged the office was awful when they found out their mistake. Poor Jamshêd was seen across the Panjab border by one of my Munshis, but returned some months later to Lahore, whence he found his way to Brussa, in Asia Minor. It is supposed that he took service in the Turkish Army, but he has not since been heard of. As I intend to publish an account of the Káfirs of Katár (now, I fear, all Nimchas, or half-Muhammadans), Gambir, etc., I reserve the interesting statements of Jamshêd to their proper Section in my “Káfiristán.”

Jamshêd, the Siah Pôsh Kafir,
Brought to England by Prof. Leitner in 1872.

COMPARATIVE TABLE OF ANTHROPOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS ON SOME OF THE DARDS IN DR. LEITNER’S SERVICE.

(The first five and the last are described by the French system; the sixth by the German system, put into millimetres and centimetres respectively.)

A
MATAVALLI.[118]
B
KHUDÁYÁR.
C
GHULAM MUHAMMAD.
D
GHULÁM.
E
ABDULLAH.
F
MIR ABDULLAH.[119]
G[120]
DR. LEITNER.
Date and place of observation2-6-81: Simla2-6-81: Simla2-6-81: Simla—— Simla2-6-81: Simla23-3-86: Lahore2-6-81: Simla
Age; sex; profession32 yrs.; m.; peasant and warrior21 yrs.; m.; student40 yrs.; m.; agriculturist18 yrs.; m.40 yrs.; m.; agriculturist30 yrs.; m.; Jurist40 yrs.
Caste, tribe, and tongueYashkun; Khajuná; BurishkiYashkun; Khajuná; BurishkiShináShîn (Kashmir subject)Shîn; (Kashmir subject)Dard; Gabriál
Religion and birthplaceShiah; (probably Mulái) HunzaShiah; NagyrShiah; GilgitSunni; Gurukôt near AstorSunni; Gurukôt near AstorSunni
Thin, medium, or stoutmediumthinmediummediummediumstout
Weight[121]9 st. 8½ lb.9 st. 10 lb.8 st. 5 lb.14 st. 4 lb.
Colours[122]skin, exposed parts53 (red brown)54385237forehead & cheeks, reddish-brown25 (very fair)
” covered parts21 (light red brown)47385337lips, pink; covered parts, lighter24 (very fair)
hair48 (black)42grey4848blackfair
beard41 (black)43grey4848red-brownfair; slightly red
eyes3 (light brown)3211iris: dark brown; ball: white, bluish, injected14 (blue)
Hair: straight, wavy, curly, frizzled, or woollystraightcurlycurlycurlycurlyblack, short, curlycurly
Beard: thick (abundant), scanty, or nonethick, long and stiffscantyvery thickthickvery thickstraight; woolly; brown-reddishabundant
Skin: smooth, a little, or very hairyvery hairya little hairya little hairyvery hairyvery hairyhairy on breast, little on armsvery hairy
Shape of profile of nose (p. 111)No. 2 (nearly quite straight)5555, very high nostrilsconvex5
Lips: thick, medium, or thinmedium (arched)mediummediumthinmediumthin, archedmedium
” straight, or turned outwardsstraightstraightstraightstraightlittle turned outwardthin, straightthin, straight
Teeth: large, medium, or smallsmallmediumlargesmallsmallsmallmedium
” incisors, straight (vertical), slanting, or very slantingstraight (incisors wide apart)straightstraightstraightstraightstraightvertical
The set of teeth: very good, good, medium, bad, or very badgood (but dirty)very goodgoodvery goodvery badtransparent, very whitemedium
SkullDiameters: antero-posterior, maximum195 millim.183186187193191201
” ” inial192 ”180187185183186200
” transverse, maximum144 ”144144144140141163
” auriculo-vertical (fr. m.)116 ”110123110114119126
Curves: inio-frontal345 ”315325335345340
” horizontal540 ”525540540520530600
” transverse sub-auricular330 ”315320335320330
facial angle (Camner)81 ”8173
From point of chin to edge of hair185 ”177191193
” ophryon to alveolar point95 ”7594
Breadth between zygomata139 ”132136133
Length of nose48 ”525954
Breadth of nose31 ”393533
From ophryon to root of nose12 ”2016
Width between inner angle of eyes383435
” ”cheekbones94 ”108103
Height (standing)164 centim.182161159152166171
” (sitting)126 ”131124125124126
Greatest extension of arms162 ”180174167165165182
” ” of span20 ”16½16201919
Total length of foot25 ”262524½23½25½27
Length of ditto, ante-malleolar20 ”21½192019½22
Foreheadhigh; slightly recedinghigh; slightly retreatingmedium; straightmedium; straighthigh; straighthigh; breadth of forehead 107high; slightly receding
Frontal bone (bord sourcillier)very markedwell developedmuch developedscarcely anyscarcely anypronouncedvery pronounced
Intra-ocular distancescarcely anydeepvery deepnot deepnot deepdeep; distance 3·4very small
Eyebrowsbushy, crossing, forming but one linevery bushyarched, bushy, crossedarched, bushy, crossedarched, bushy, crossedstanding far apart, thinarched
Eyesstraightstraightstraightstraightstraightstraightstraight
Cheekslittle salientlittle salientsalientlittle salientlittle salientvery salientsalient
Zygomatic archvery salientsalientsalientmuch developedmuch developedsalientnot salient
Chinovalovalovalovalovalovalsquare
Earsmedium, little salient (round, small)medium flatlong; height of ear 6·3medium
Mouthmediumsmallthicklength of mouth 5·3medium
Neckstrongproportionedproportionedwell proportionedstrongproportionedstrong
Torsostrongsquareproportionedwell madeslim (svelte)proportionedvigorous
Extremitiesvery smallfinefinemediummediumsmallmedium[123]

JAMSHÊD.—A Katár Káfir; nephew of General Feramorz.

MEASUREMENTS OF HEAD (BY DR. JOHN BEDDOE).
ENGLISH
MILLIMETRES.
INCHES.
1.Greatest length of head from glabella6·8172·7
2.Length from tuber occip. to greatest convexity of frontal arch6·7170·2
3.Length from tuber occip. to glabella6·8172·7
4.Greatest length of head from smooth depression above glabella (ophryon)6·75171·4
5.Greatest length of head from depression at root of nose6·65168·9
6.Length from chin to vertex9·1231·1
7.Least breadth between frontal crests3·794
8.Greatest breadth between zygomata5·1129·5
9.Breadth from tragus to tragus127
10.Greatest breadth of head, yielding cranial index 86·75·9149·8
11.Breadth between greatest convexities of mastoid processes5·3134·6
12.Greatest circumference of head20·6523·2
13.Circumference at glabello-inial line20·4518·1
14.Circumference at inion and frontal convexity20·5520·6
15.Arc from nasal notch to inion (tuber occip.)12·8325·1
16.Arc from one meatus to the other across top of head14·4365·7
17.Arc from one meatus to the other over glabella11·5292·1
18.Length of face (nasal notch to chin), giving facial index, 80·44·1104·1
Height from meatus to vertex5·3133·5
Bigoniac breadth4·1103·5

The head, though strongly brachy-cephalic, is distinctly of Aryan type; high and round, but not at all acro-cephalic; the inion is placed very high.

JAMSHÈD—(continued).

The following Measurements are according to the System of Schwarz, of the Novara Expedition.

CENTIMETRES.
28.From the growth of hair to the incisura semilunaris sterni25·
29.From the inion to the Halswirbel (vertebra prominens)14·45
30.Direct diameter, from one meatus aud. ext. to the other11·85
31.Outer angle of the eye to the other8·75
32.Inner angle of the eye to the other2·75
33.Distance of the fixed points of the ear4·05
34.Breadth of the nose3·2
35.Breadth of the mouth
36.Distance of the two angles of the lower jaw10·35
37.From incis. semil. sterni to the seventh vertebra12·95
38.From the axillary line over the mammæ to the other26·4
39.From sternum to columna vertebralis, straight across19·3
40.From one spina anterior superior ilii to the other22·35
41.From one troch. maj. to other26·05
42.Circumference of the neck33·5
43.From one tuberculum majus to the other37·
44.From middle line of axillary line over the chest, above mammæ, to the other middle line41·5
45.Circumference of chest on the same level88·25
46.From nipple to nipple19·25
47.Between anterior spines of ilia26·85
48.From trochanter major to the spina anterior ilii of the same side13·5
49.From the most prominent part of the sternal articulation of the clavicular to above43·4
50.From same point to the navel39·2
51.From navel to upper edge of the symphysis ossium pubis14·75
52.From the 5th lumbar vertebra along the edge of the pelvis to the edge of the symphysis43·
53.From the 7th vertebra to the end of the os coccygis60·35
54.From one acromion to the other across the back43·7
55.From the acromion to the condyl. ext. humeri32·25
56.From ext. condyl. humeri to processus styloideus radii25·
57.From processus styloideus radii to metacarpal joint10·2
58.From the same joint to the top of the middle finger9·8
59.Circumference of the hand21·4
60.Greatest circumference of upper arm over the biceps26·8
61.Greatest circumference of forearm24·5
62.Smallest circumference of forearm15·2
63.From trochanter major to condyl. ext. femoris34·35
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.From condyl. ext. femoris to mal. ext.38·6
69.Circumference of knee joint32·4
70.Circumference of calf36·4
71.Smallest circumference of leg21·3
72.Length of the foot23·3
73.Circumference of instep23·5
74.Circumference of metatarsal joint23·5
75.From external malleolus to ground8·1
76.From condyl. intern. to malleolus int.36·9
77.Greatest circumference of thigh48·5
78.Smallest circumference of thigh35·5
79.Round the waist68·4
80.Height of man (English, 5´ 3¾)161·9
81.Colour of hair, very dark reddish-brown.
82.Colour of eyes, hazel-grey.
83.Colour of face, yellowish-brown.
84.Colour of skin of body, lighter than above.
85.Weight,
86.Strength,
87.Pulsation, 80 (a little excited).

APPENDIX VI.
A ROUGH ACCOUNT, COLLECTED IN 1886, OF ITINERARIES IN THE “NEUTRAL ZONE” BETWEEN CENTRAL ASIA AND INDIA. By Raja Khushwaqtia and Dr. G. W. Leitner.

Route I.

From Gilgit to Kabul, viâ Dareyl, Tangir, Kandiá, Ujù, Torwál, Swat, Dir, Maidán, Jandūl, Bajaur, Muravarri, Pashàt, Kunèr, Jelalabad, Kabul.

Gilgit to Sherkila, 9 katsha (rough) kôs[124] (1½ miles), ruled by Isa Bahadur’s son, Raja Akbar Khan, under Kashmīr, a faithful ally, contains 70 zemindars’ (peasants’) houses on the Yasin river.

Sherkila to Patàri (is uninhabited), over a ridge Pīr (17 katsha kôs) called Batrèt, which is a plateau on which the Dareylis graze their flocks in the spring.

Patàri to Yatshōt (12 katsha kôs), road stony and jungly. Yatshōt is a village of Dareyl of one hundred houses, occupied by zemindars who have cattle, sheep, goats, and buffaloes (which are not found in Badakhshan). The ground produces much white maize (from which bread is made), wheat, barley, grapes growing to a gigantic size, nuts, etc. There is excellent water, but it is very cold. The people are Sunnis, and speak Shiná (the dialect of Chilás). [The Shins appear to have been a Hindu tribe expelled from Kashmir territory and converted to a sort of Muhammadanism, both Shiah and Sunni. They are the highest caste in Dardistan; but, instead of the Brahminical veneration for the cow, they abhor everything connected with it—its flesh and milk—and only touch its calf at the end of a prong.] Yatshōt has two mosques, and Mullas who understand Arabic well. The Dareylis are very religious, and attentive to their ceremonial practices. The streamlet of Dareyl runs past it.

Yatshōt to Manikál, 3 katsha kôs, a plain easy march through a prairie. Manikál has two forts, one of which has about 500 houses, and is called Dòrkans; and the other, Manikál proper, which has 300 houses and an old Mosque. Manikál is surrounded by forests. When the Kashmīr troops reached Manikál, the Dareylis, after fighting, burned down their old fort rather than surrender. There are many Mullas and disciples there, some coming from Peshawar, Swat, etc.

Manikál to Samangál, 3 katsha kôs, over an inhabited plain. The fort contains 800 houses. A great elder (Djashtero) called Kalashmīr resides there, whom all the Dareylis respect and follow, although there are many other Djashteros, like Muqaddams (elders, mayors), in Kashmir villages. He is wise and rich, possessing, perhaps, in addition to cattle, etc., 5 or 6 thousand tolas of gold; and he has one wife and two or three children. Persian is read there in addition to Arabic. There is also another fort containing 500 houses, also called Samangál, a few hundred yards from the first. In fact, Dareyl, although a small country, is thickly populated.

Samangál to Pùgutsh, a fort, with 500 houses, 2 katsha kôs—thence 1 katsha kôs to Gayál, a fort with 600 houses—all an easy road.

Gayál to Kàmi, Fort Tangīr, over a high mountain called Kùbbekunn, very windy, and wooded. Water must be taken with one when starting from Gayál, as none is found before reaching Rîm, a small village of 20 houses, on the Tangīr side. The road for 8 kôs is difficult, being an ascent of 4 kôs on each side. From Rîm to Tangīr the road is good, water abundant, and habitations numerous. Kàmi fort has 1,000 houses of Gujars (a shepherd and cowherd tribe that is found following its peaceful occupation, either as settlers or nomads, in the most dangerous districts), and zemindars, who are tributaries to Yasin, paying taxes in gold and kind. There is a direct road from Tangīr to Yasin, viâ Satìl—6 kôs, plain, with many Gujars, paying their grazing tax in gold; thence over a small peak, Mayiréy, to the plateau of Batrêt, 8 katsha kôs. (See second stage of this route.)

From Batrêt to Ràushan, over a small mountain. Ràushan is a small fort of Yasin, whence there are roads to Yasin, Chitrál, Gilgit, etc. Gold is washed from the Indus, which is 3 katsha kôs from Kàmi. The Tangīris are braver than the Dareylis and equally religious, having many Mullas; but the country, although larger, is not so well populated as Dareyl, the people of which are also rather shepherds than hunters. The Gabár are the ruling people in Tangīr, about 1,000 families, of which 500 are in Kàmi. They are the old proprietors of the country, and are all Shins who now have given up their old aversion to the cow, its flesh and milk.

Kàmi, over the mountain Tràk, called by the Pathans Chaudunno, which has no snow on the Tangīr side, but a snow-covered plateau 1½ kôs long on the Kandiá side. Then comes a green plain. To the foot of the mountain Tràk on the Tangīr side 11 kôs pakka (11 good kôs, or nearly 22 miles), over a tree-covered plain. Then over the Tràk pass and plateau, the road goes along a plain which extends for 17 kôs to Gabriál. There are a great many Gujars along the road. [The road to Yasin is through the Gujar-frequented district of Kuranjá, belonging to Tangīr. Multán is the Muqaddam of the Gujars, a brave man.]

Gabriál has only 40 houses, but the country of Gabriál generally is studded with habitations. The famous Mullah Habîbulla, a relative of Raja Khushwaqtia, is a most influential man among Kohistanis. His tribe is Mullakheyl, and all the Gujars of Kandiá are obedient to him. The Mullakheyl are Shîns, but Yashkuns also live there. Yashkuns are the peasantry of Dardistan, including Hunza, and supposed to be aborigines, though some derive the Yashkuns of Hunza from the white Yuechi, or Huns, and others give them a Western origin. They have always been Sunnis. (The Dareylis were formerly Shiahs.) (See detailed account of Gabriál by one of its Maulvis, Mir Abdullah, and of Kandiá or Kiliá, translated by Dr. G. W. Leitner.) The people of Kandiá are wealthy in flocks, ghi (= clarified butter, exported to Peshawur, 18 to 25 pakka seers for the rupee). It is subject to Yasin. They possess double or Indian rupees and mahmudshahis, some having 10 or 20 thousand rupees. The poorest have 10 to 12 cows, 100 sheep, etc. The greatest among the Gujars intermarry with Yasin chiefs. The Kohistanis are independent, but the Gujars pay a tribute to Yasin. The Samu or Samasi village is 2 kôs from Gabriál. From Gabriál, ½ kôs distant, is a mountain called by the same name, with an ascent of five to six pakka kôs, with excellent water; road only open in summer. A descent of 5 kôs brings one to Ushu, a big village of 600 houses inhabited by Bashkaris. (See special account by Dr. Leitner of Bashkar and its language.) The Swat river touches it. The Bashkaris pay a small tribute to Yasin, but are practically independent. They are generally on good terms with the Torwaliks, who were formerly their rulers. The languages of Torwal and Bashkar are different.

From Ushù to Torwál, 13 kôs, very bad, stony road, after Kalám (2 miles from Ushù). Torwál has 200 houses. They are not so rich as the people of Kandiá and Jalkôt.

From Torwál to Branihál, the frontier of Torwál, 12 to 13 kôs, a bad stony road, 600 houses and a Bazár in which there are 5 or 6 Hindu merchants. [The Hindu traders are not molested in Yaghistán (“the wild land” as Dardistán, the country between Kabul and Kashmir is often called), because no one is afraid of them; whereas if a Sahib (English man) came, people would be afraid.] There are many wealthy people in Branihál, which may be considered to be the capital of Torwál.

Branihál to Swat, a plain; at only 1½ kôs is Shagrám, composed of 3 villages, under the children of the Sayad (descendant of the prophet Muhammad), Pir Bâba. The three villages are inhabited by Sayads and contain 500 houses. Then to Tiráh (1 mile, a plain), where the Mîna or Akhunkheyls live (300 houses).

Tiráh to Landéy, 1 kôs pakka, a Patán village, in which rice grows, beginning from Branihál; Landéy to Lalkún (a small village away from the big road to Hoti Murdan) 5 kôs, a plain. Thence Fazil banda, 12 kôs, a plain; thence to a mountain, Barkànn, 12 kôs, a plain, leaving the Swat for the Dīr territory. Jarughey (hamlet of Gujars) is the halting-place. From Jarughey into the Dara of Ushuréy, in Yaghistan proper; it is the home of the Khan of Dīr, and is inhabited by the Panda Kheyl tribe. Halt at Jàbar, a village 14 kôs from Jarughey, a fairly inhabited road. From Jàbar to Maidán (16 kôs) by the mountain Káir Dara, and passing the fort Bībiól (100 houses) a fort of the Khan of Dīr. The mountain is high. Maidán fort and Bazar, and Bandey fort (500 houses), Kumbàr 1 kôs distant, 1,000 houses, of Mīans, and Bazar with many Hindus. Thence to Bandey Mayár, a great Bazár, and a renowned Ziáret (shrine), and Langar (almshouse) of Saukanó Mīân, a village of Peshawar, are 2,000 or 3,000 houses, belonging to Jandūl. It is 14 kôs distant from Maidán, over an inhabited plain. Umr Khan, the ruler, has 240 excellent horsemen, 3,000 infantry, fights with Dīr, who has 500 inferior horses and numerous footmen, but not so brave as Jandúl. Terkanì is the name of the Jandúl ruler and tribe up to Jellalabad, and Irubsì that of Dîr, Swat, Buneyr, Samè, Pakli, etc. At 1½ kôs of Mayar is Miákil, a big town, of 5,000 houses and a Bazar. Miákil to (Bajaur) Badâm, are Kakazis, of the Mamùnd tribe, for 16 kôs a plain, 400 houses, Yágis (wild); Badàm to Mureweri, are 16 kôs, over a small mountain (Mohmands) in Yaghistan, has 1,000 houses. (At Nawagai is a Khan, Ajdar Khan, with 20 horsemen and 3,000 footmen.) At Khàr was another Khán, Dilawar Khan, who fled to Peshawar, his place having been conquered by Ajdar Khan; 100 houses. The place is surrounded by the Tuman-kheyl tribe. On the other side of the river, Kabul rule begins, and opposite is Chagar Sarai, leading to Katár, once a stronghold of Kafirs. Gambīr is subject to Kabul, the rest of the Siah Posh being independent; and another road leads to Petsh, which is Yági, or independent.

From Muraweri to Pashùtt, 5 or 6 kôs pakka. Below Muraweri, 2 kôs, is Serkanni, where there are 200 Kabul troops. From Pashùtt cross stream on jhallas (inflated skins) to Jelalabad, 20 or 22 kôs; whence the road to Kabul is too well known to need even a passing reference.


Uninteresting as rough accounts of itineraries may be to the general reader, they are not without importance to the specialist. My material on the subject of routes to, and through, the Hindu-kush territories is considerable, though necessarily defective. It was mainly collected in 1866-72, when a portion of it was used by that leader of men, General Sir Charles MacGregor. I published a few “routes” at various intervals in the hope of stimulating inquiry, and of eliciting corrections or further information; but Indian official Departments, instead of co-operating, are uncommunicative of the partial, and therefore often misleading, knowledge which they possess, and, above all, jealous of non-official specialists. The First part of my work on Hunza has recently been printed by the Indian Foreign Office; where and when the Second will appear, is doubtful. I think the public have a right to know how matters stand in what was once called “the neutral zone,” the region between the Russian and the British spheres of influence in Asia. At any rate, the learned Societies and International Oriental and other Congresses, that, on the strength of the material already published, have done me the honour at various times to apply with but very partial success, to Government on behalf of the elaboration of my material, shall not be deprived of it, though I can only submit it to them in its rough primitive state. The reader of The Asiatic Quarterly Review will, I hope, not be deterred by the dulness of “routes” from glancing at material which, in future articles, will include accounts, however rough, of the languages, the history and Governments, the customs, legends, and songs of, perhaps, the most interesting countries and races in Asia. The information, often collected under circumstances of danger, is based on personal knowledge, and on the accounts of natives of position in the countries to be dealt with.

G. W. L.

[Reprinted from The Asiatic Quarterly Review, April, 1891.]