| CHAPTER I. |
| My former journey—Inducements to a second—Plan and object—Custom-housedifficulties at Suez—Scenes in the Governor’s divan—Environsof Suez—Sulphur mine of Gimsah—Recluse life of theofficials—An unenticing coast—The roadstead of Djidda—The brideof the fish—Voyage across the Red Sea—Salt works of Roway—Appearanceof the shore—Charm of the moonlight nights—Importanceof Suakin—First night-camp in the mountains—New speciesof Dracæna—Numerous succulents among the flora—The valley ofSingat —Idyllic abode of the Governor—Mountains of Erkoweet—Theolive-tree wild—Gardens of the desert—Characteristics of thetown Bedouins—Equipment for the desert—Old fanatic from Kano—Injuryand oppression—The Bedouin camp O-Mareg—Brown coatingof the rocks—Goats and sheep of the Bedouins—Plant with my ownname—Contest with the camel-drivers—Ugliness of the women—Amonument of nature—Arrival at the Nile—Tent in peril—A wedding—Theninety-nine islands and the Sablook-straits—Pitiable conditionof the country—Arrival at Khartoom | [Page 1] |
| CHAPTER II. |
| Kind reception in Khartoom—Dyafer Pasha, the Governor-General—Contractwith Ghattas—Herr W. Duisberg—Ivory trade at Khartoom—Khartoompossessions in the negro countries—Departure from Khartoom—Manningof the boat—Construction of the Khartoom boats—Firstnight on the White Nile—Character of the landscape—Washingaway of the east bank—Fertility of the country on the west—Acaciaforests—Herds of the Hassanieh—Numerous hippopotamuses—Geeseand ducks—Beginning of the wilderness—The Ambatch-wood—Firstday of ill-luck—Running over a wild buffalo—Baggara Arabs—Brethrenin the faith—The mountain Nyemati—Evening gossipabout pygmies—Native Egyptian cultivated plants—Buffalos alarmingthe Baggara—Mohammed Kher, the robber chief—Impressions on thefirst sight of savages—Boat attacked by bees—Frightful agony—Gadflies—Giantsnails—A man carries three canoes—Repair of thesail-yard—Fashoda the most southern military station—FifteenShillooks at a shot—Gay temperament of the people—Gun accidents—Africangiant snakes | [43] |
| CHAPTER III. |
| Camp of the Mudir—A negro king—Campaigns—Future of the country—Awise judge—The shrieking priest—Gum-arabic—The melodioustree—Mohammed Aboo-Sammat—Boats on the flight—Treachery ofthe Shillooks—General market—Excuse for plunder—First papyrus—Cæsaramong the pirates—Useless attempts to proceed—A world ofgrass—Hippopotamuses in a fright—The last obstacle—Depreciationof the Gazelle stream—Bon-mot of the Viceroy—Ghattas’s namesake—Theslipper-shape—Description of the Nueir—Analogy betweenman and beast—Cactus-type of Euphorbiæ—The Bahr-el-Arab amainstream—Vallisneria meadows—Arrival in Port Rek—Truenature of the Gazelle—Discovery of the Meshera—Deadly climate andits victims—Le Saint—Features of the scenery—The old queen andher prince consort—Royal gifts—Fishes and birds | [84] |
| CHAPTER IV. |
| Start for the interior—Flags of the Khartoomers—Comfortable travellingwith bearers—The African elephant—Parting from Shol and Kurdyook—Disgustingwells in the district of the Lao—Wide sandflats—Villageof Take—Fatal accident—Arabian protocol—Halt in thevillage of Kudy—Description of the Dinka—Peculiarities of the race—Dyeingof the hair—Nudity—“The Turkish lady”—Iron age—Weaponsof the Dinka—“People of the stick”—Weapons of defence—Domesticcleanliness—Cuisine—Entertainment of the ladies—Snakes—Tobacco-smoking—Constructionof the huts—Dinka sheep,goats, and dogs—Reverence for cattle—Degeneration of cows—Intestinalworms—Deficiency of milk—Large murahs—Capabilities ofthe Dinka—Warlike spirit—Treatment of enemies—Instance ofparental affection—Forest district of the Al-Waj—Arrival at Ghattas’schief Seriba | [137] |
| CHAPTER V. |
| Reception at the Seriba—Population—Fertility—Salubrity—Management—Poorprospects of the ivory trade—Failure of European firmsin Khartoom—Idrees, the chief agent—Domestic arrangements—Beautiesof spring—The daughter Seriba Geer—Bit of primevalforest—Giraffe-hunt—Bamboo jungle—Negro festival and music—Tripto the Dyoor and to Wow—Desertion of bearers—Good entertainment—MarquisAntinori and Vayssière—Old servant of Petherick’s—Hornblend—Heightof the water of the Dyoor—Apostrophe tothe river—A model Seriba—First acquaintance with Niam-niam—Traderfrom Tunis—The Wow River—Seriba Agahd in Wow—Ediblefruits of the country—Wild buffaloes—Instability of dwellings—Caamaand Leucotis antelopes—Numerous butterflies—Bear-baboons—Pharaohpalms—Daily life of the Dyoor—Their race—Iron-smelting—Formationof huts—Idyll of village life—Huntingwith snares—Women’s work—Graves—Care of young andold | [172] |
| CHAPTER VI. |
| Laying out a garden à l’Européenne—Hunting adventure with a bastardGems-bok—Death of Arslan—Physiognomy of the vegetation—Characterof the soil—Geography of plants—Destruction of a Seribaby natives—Seriba law—Cattle-raids on the Dinka—Tour roundGhattas’s Seribas—Geography at Geer—Fish of the Tondy—Fear ofghosts in Kulongo—Caves of Gubbehee—Central African jackal—Bamboosin blossom—Triumph of Nature over her traducers—Joint-stockdistillery in Gurfala—Nubian love of drink—Petherick’s Mundo—Unsuccessfulchase in the long grass—Two bush-antelopes—Cultivatedplants of the district—Cereals—Large growth of sorghum—Leguminousfruits—Oily fruits—Tubers—Vegetables—Tobacco—Smokingin Africa | [213] |
| CHAPTER VII. |
| The Bongo: Area, boundaries, and population of Bongoland—Subjectionof the Bongo to the Khartoomers—Decrease of population by slave-trading—Redtinge of the skin—Width of the skull—Small growthof hair—No aridity in climate—Wild tubers as food—Races of goatsand dogs—Hunting-weapons—Villages and huts—Smelting furnaces—Moneyof the Bongo—Weapons for display—Wood-carving—Penates of the Bongo—Musical instruments—Character of Bongomusic—Corpulence of the women—Hottentot Venus—Mutilation ofthe teeth—Disfigurement of the lips—Arrow-poisoning—Nationalgames—Marriage premiums—Natural morality—Disposing of thedead—Memorial erections—Mistrust of spirits—Loma, good andill-luck—Fear of ghosts—Belief in witches—Peculiarities of language—Unityof the people of Central Africa—Extermination of therace Page | [256] |
| CHAPTER VIII. |
| Calamities by fire—Deliverance and escape—Six women-slaves burnt—Barterings—Domesticationof wild-cats—Plague of cockroaches—Pillenwasps—Agamæ and chameleons—Fever—Meteorology—Solarphenomenon—A festal reception with an unfortunate result—Disturbanceof rest at night—Murmuring of prayers—Jewish school—Orgiesand drum-beating—Casting out devils—Resolve to follow Aboo-Sammat—Starttowards the south—Passage of the Tondy—Character ofthe forest—The water-bock—Scenery by night—Shereefee’s attack—SeribaDuggoo—Consequences of the steppe-burning—Seriba Dagguddoo—Burnthuman bones and charred huts—Tropics in winter—Twokinds of ant-hills—Arrival in Sabby—Nocturnal festivities ofthe Bongo—Desolation of the country—Goat-suckers—Abundanceof game—The zebra-ichneumon—The spectral mantis—Lions—Wonderfulchase after hartebeests—Snake and antelope at ashot | [315] |
| CHAPTER IX. |
| Tour through the Mittoo country—Early morning in the wilderness —Soldiercarried away by a lion—Dokkuttoo—Fishing in the Roah—Feedinga slave caravan—Ngahma—Dimindo, the hunter’s Seriba—Woundsfrom the grass—Dangadduloo—Entertainment in the Seribas—Theriver Rohl—Reception at Awoory—Footsore—Trial of patience—Peopleof the district—Poncet’s Seriba Mvolo—Mercantile prospectsfor the Egyptian Government—Fantastic character of landscape—Structureof pile-work—Rock-rabbits—Rock-rabbits’ feet—Nilecataract in miniature—The Tinnea æthiopica—Seriba Karo on theWohko—Reggo and its breed of dogs—Kurraggera—Aboo Sammat’sfestivities—A speech of the Kenoosian—Aboo Sammat and thesubjugated chiefs—Deragoh and its mountains—Kuddoo on the Roah—Fearof lions in the forest of Geegyee—Return to Sabby—TheMittoo people—Inferiority of race—Disfiguration of the lips by Mittoowomen—Fetters of fashion—Love of music | [365] |
| CHAPTER X. |
| Preparations for Niam-niam campaign—Generosity of Aboo Sammat—Organisationof the caravan—Ceremonies at starting—Banner ofIslam—Travelling costume—Terminalia forest—Hartebeest chase—Ahmedthe Liar—Prospect from Mbala Ngeea—Bivouac on theLehssy—Camp noises at night—Story of cannibalism—Ahmed’sfate—The Ibba—First meeting with Niam-niam—Growth of thepopukky-grass—Elephant-hunting among the Niam-niam—Surpriseat the white man—Visit to Nganye—A chieftain’s household—Entertainmentby Nganye—Gumba—Colocasia—A Niam-niamminstrel—Beauty of the Zowa-trees—Encephalartus on the hill ofGumango—Cultivated districts on the Rye—Condition of hamlets andfarms—Devastation of Bendo’s district—Contest with the soldiers—Escapefrom a bullet—Identity of the Sway and the Dyoor—The lawof drainage—Passage of the Manzilly—First primeval forest—Frontierwildernesses—Organisation in the geography of plants—Importanceof guinea-fowl to the traveller—Feeding the bearers—Nationaldiet | [415] |
| CHAPTER XI. |
| Aboo Sammat’s territory—Jungle on the brooks—Discovery of wildpepper—Giant trees—Modesty of the Niam-niam women—Freshdanger from a bullet—A Bongo poisoned by manioc—Liberal treatmentof bearers—Nduppo’s disagreement with Wando—Savage admirationof Europeans—The skin-trade—Wando’s braggings and threatenings—Formationof columns for war—Natives as soldiers—Difficultiesof river-fording—Difference of level of soil on the watersheds—Mohammed’sprelude to drinking beer—Division of forces—Primeval forest onthe Lindukoo—Rikkete’s jealousy—Varieties of genets—Mohammed’sréveil—Morning toilet of the Niam-niam—Waterfall on the Lindukoo—Magicroots—Watershed of the Nile district—Simple geologicalformation of Central Africa—The chimpanzee and pandanus foundonly beyond the watershed—Confusion in crossing the brook—Africa’srevenge on the white man—Venturesome interview of Mohammed withWando—Value of ivory and copper—Definition of a “gallery-wood”—Dualityof vegetation—Wando visits my tent—Wando’s nonchalance—Aspecimen of native cookery—Six Nubians murdered by Niam-niam—Theleaf-eater and grass-man | [465] |
| CHAPTER XII. |
| Poultry-market—Votive pillars and hunting-trophies—Indirect evidenceof cannibalism—The chimpanzee in Central Africa— Presents of chimpanzeeskulls—New style of huts—The A-Banga—Cultivation ofmanioc in Central Africa—The Treculia—Cam-wood and muscat nuts—Conflictwith natives—Shooting-match and sham fight—Magiclucifers—Mutual interchange of blood—Botanical excursion interrupted—Gyabirwounded—Modes of expressing pain—Female slavescaptured—Giant lichens—Tree-termites—Monbuttoo frontier—Receptionby Nembey—Northern limit of the oil-palm—Imaginaryalarm—Unexpected arrival of Khartoomers—Visit of Bongwa and hiswife—Cattle of the Maogoo—Cultivation of the sugar-cane—Interviewwith Izingerria—Arrival at the Welle—Condition of the Welle—Relationsof the stream—Crossing the river—Monbuttoo canoes—Newimpressions of the heart of Africa—Arrival at Munza’s residence | [515] |
