CHAPTER VI.
Cross the country to Goulbourn Plains—A road-gang stockade—Splendid view—The old Bathurst road—Sidmouth valley—Brisbane valley—Squash field—Bolam Creek—Turril, turril—Gum resin—Swampy country—Mr. Cowper’s farm—Anecdotes—Distant view of Goulburn Plains—Mr. Bradley’s estate—Cross the plains—Hospitable reception at cardross—The Manna tree—Failure in rearing the tulip tree.
On the 24th of September, after an agreeable sojourn with Mr. E. Cox, and again accompanied by Mr. O’Brien, we resumed our journey; retracing our road to Wallerowang, and crossing the country to Goulburn Plains. We arrived at Wallerowang on the morning of the 28th, and, after a short stay, proceeded on our journey, taking a bush-road across the country; passed “Honeysuckle Swamp,” (so called from abounding in that species of Banksia, before mentioned as rosmarinifolia,) about which the old grass was on fire. The custom of setting the dry grass on fire is very prevalent throughout the colony, as the young grass shooting up soon after affords fine feeding for cattle, &c.
After riding about seven miles,[51] we arrived at a stockade, inhabited by a road-gang, employed upon the new Bathurst road, having a very distant view of the descent at Mount Vittoria, from which the road we were upon was a continuation, and a splendid view of mountain ranges and forest scenery was now before us. We only proceeded a few miles upon this excellent road, when we turned off into a dull bush-path through a portion of country which, from its want of animation, became tiresome to man and beast; there was nothing to excite the attention of either, and the horses always appear to participate, with ourselves, in the want of a lively character in the country.
Emerging from this wild bushy track, we came upon the old Bathurst road, and then the country assumed a better appearance, being thinly timbered, and herds of cattle gave some animation to the scene, increasing the beauty of the landscape. As we proceeded, the Fish River was occasionally seen winding its course among acacias, swamp oaks, and other trees, which grew upon its banks, and the sight of a river in this badly watered country, was always a pleasing relief. We crossed this river, and deviating from the main road arrived at “Sidmouth Valley,” the neat farm and residence of Mr. Lowe, by whom we were kindly received, and remained for the night, after a journey this day of twenty-two miles. A distant view of the Bathurst Plains was obtained from this farm.
We left “Sidmouth Valley” early on the following morning, through a good bush-road, and arrived at a portion of thinly-timbered country, having a character of park scenery, abounding in fine herbage. This brought us almost immediately upon a cattle station, the property of Capt. P. P. King, R.N. There was no one in the hut, so, after feeding our horses, we again proceeded; and, after a four miles ride, arrived at a cattle station, belonging to Mr. Scarvell, called “Brisbane Valley,” although from its quality and locality, “swamp” would have been a more correct nomenclature. From this station our road led by a bush-path between wooded hills, and through miserable swamps famed for the loss of an immense number of sheep, until we arrived at a place called “Squashfield,” and never was a more appropriate name bestowed upon a locality; for although the vegetation, springing up from the swamps, gave a fresh, fertile, and even beautiful appearance to the place, yet the moist, chilly, and raw atmosphere, could excite no other ideas than those connected with rheumatisms, catarrhs, and analogous diseases, to which cold and damp will subject the human frame. From the lateness of the hour we took up our night’s lodging in the hut at this station, where every thing was done to make us as comfortable as possible. Squashfield was, for the present, rented by Mr. Imlay, as a cattle station.
This place is an extensive range of swampy flats, of fertile appearance, which was the cause of its being first selected as a sheep station, and its bright features, when the young grass is springing up, charmed many into severe losses; for, not taking into calculation the quality of the soil, or the adaptation of the place for a sheep-run, numerous flocks were placed upon it, and the result was, before any long period had elapsed, the loss of the whole from rot; and yet, notwithstanding these facts more sheep were subsequently placed on the same spot, and, as might have been expected, with similar results, from the damp and swampy nature of the situation. Even now the stock-keepers stated that cattle could not remain about the place, but wander away to more congenial pasturage in other parts of the country.
We rose at day light to continue our journey; a hoar frost whitened the ground, and the atmosphere was exceedingly cold and damp: even our horses were impatient to leave this uncongenial spot, having been left by themselves during the night; for every animal, except those in confinement, which had been collected together with much trouble the previous day, were all reported absent without leave on the following morning.
After a short journey, through a similar swampy country, we arrived at a more elevated and agreeable spot, when we stopped to take refreshments, made a bush fire, prepared tea, turning out our horses to graze in a fine pasturage. Many of the Eucalypti trees[52] were throwing off their dark brown and rough outer bark, appearing in a new one, of a greyish colour. The appearance of the trees, partially denuded, with strips of brown crisped bark hanging about their trunks and branches ready to fall, being a general peculiarity of the trees of the country, excites the attention of the stranger. Our road led through a broken but picturesque country, thinly timbered, and appeared good pasture land. We crossed a small river, called the Bingham, the country improving very much as we proceeded, abounding in beautiful park scenery, and the distant hills, rising one above the other, both thinly, and, in some situations, densely wooded, was an agreeable change to the uninteresting sameness of the country through which we had, for the most part, journeyed.
The species of Eucalyptus, termed “Box Tree,” by the colonists, was most abundant: it has a rough, scaly bark, differing in that particular from most of the other species or varieties of the same genus. On the elevated spots, the Exocarpus cupressiforme, or native cherry-tree, was seen; but the situation appeared uncongenial to its growth; for, instead of the graceful and elegantly pending branches, with delicate dark-green foliage, such as this tree presents when growing in sheltered situations, it now had a stunted, brown, and wretched appearance. About noon, we arrived at Mr. Murphy’s station at Bingham, being seventeen miles from Squashfield.
The approach to marshy land is readily indicated by the melody of the frog tribe, among which, the peculiar sound uttered by that species known by the name of the “bell frog,” is very often heard: and indeed the name is not inapplicable to the creature, the sound it produces, being very similar to a sheep-bell. Detached clumps of wire grass,[53] intermingled with the brown-coloured sedge grass,[54] and at some places reeds (Arundo phragmites? Linn.) also point out those watery patches which are often met by the traveller while journeying through this country.
Birds were occasionally numerous, particularly when near a river; but magpies and crows were never found wanting in any part of the country, abounding every where: the former the same impudent, peculating race as at home. As for the parrot tribe, enough may be seen in a day’s ride to supply all the maiden ladies in Europe with pollies sufficient to talk or scream them to death in an inconceivably short period of time; and the peculiar noise of the laughing or feathered jackass, (Dacelo gigantea,) which increases from a low to a loud thrilling gurgling laugh, was often heard.
We continued our journey over a very beautiful and romantic country, with distant thinly-wooded mountains trending towards the Abercrombie river, which was not far off, reminding me of some of the splendid scenery of Devon. After travelling about four miles, descending a steep hill, we arrived on the banks of the river, which at this part of its course was a rapid, but not broad stream. Swamp oaks (Casurina paludosa) grew abundantly on the banks, their dark foliage giving a gloomy character to the scene.[55]
After crossing the river, (which, not having been lately swollen by rains, was effected without much difficulty,) we had to ascend a very steep hill, which brought us to a gradually ascending road over hills, having a remarkably beautiful, verdant, and romantic appearance. The thinly-wooded hills were thickly clothed with a bright carpeting of verdure, imparting a cheerful feature to the country, which was further increased by a number of flowers scattered about, of various tints; among which were the Gnapthalium, with yellow, white, and pink blossoms; Emu flowers, (Richea glauca,) and a great number of the Orchideæ family; their blue, pink, and yellow flowers rising a short distance above the surface of the ground,—all afforded a pleasing variety to the many natural beauties of this place.
As we ascended this road, the sloping declivities of the hills in the vicinity, clothed with rich pasturage, sufficiently wooded to give variety, with an occasional glimpse of the “Abercrombie,” winding its course between the lofty, smiling hills, increased, as we proceeded, the beauty of the prospect. Even the climate was changed: instead of the damp, frosty, wintry climate we had left only in the morning, we were suddenly transported (a word obsolete in the colony) to another region,—the weather fine—clear and serene sky—the sun shining brilliantly upon the smiling scene; birds carolling, seemed to sympathize in our feelings; butterflies and other brilliant insects sported over the gay flowers that strewed our path, and the whole formed a scene doubly felt by comparison with the uninteresting country we had left.
After we attained the summit of this hilly ascent, the road led through a more swampy and thickly-wooded country; but that character did not continue far, for we again approached an open forest country, and a farm at Bolam[56] appeared situated on an opposite hill to that over which the road we were then traversing passed. On descending, we crossed a rivulet or creek, (for the terms are synonymous in this country,) called “Bolam Creek;” and at five P.M., arrived at the neat farm of Mr. James Hassell. We now reached the Argyle country; and the contrast between this and the portion of the Bathurst district, through which we had passed, was much in favour of the former. The distance of our journey this day was twenty-eight miles; and our horses, not lately having had good feeding, from the poorness of the pasturage, we here gave them a day’s rest; and although we had to regret the absence of Mr. Hassell, we yet received every attention from the persons left in charge.
We resumed our journey early on the morning of the 30th; but the day turned out very wet.
About Bolam Creek, flocks of wild ducks were abundant. These birds were not so wild about creeks as on large rivers. The barn-doors about the farms (in imitation of a similar custom in the “old country,”) were decorated by the brushes and tails of that shepherds’ pest, the Dingo, or native Australian dog, and other vermin belonging to the colony. As we rode through the bush, the moist atmosphere occasioned a strong aroma to be diffused from the leaves of the gum-trees, as well as from odoriferous flowers. The country was of a picturesque character; and, after a distance of twelve miles, we reached a station belonging to Mr. Ellis, called “Turril, turril,” where we remained an hour to refresh our horses. I remarked the red gum in abundance on most trees of the Eucalyptus genus: the red, spotted, and white gum, iron, and stringy bark, manna, box, and others, produced it profusely: it exudes both spontaneously and in larger quantities, when incisions have been made on the trunk, more particularly after rain. It is seen in masses upon the trunk; but its particles have so little tenacity, that when in a concrete form any attempt to detach them in one entire lump fails, and it crumbles immediately into innumerable minute fragments.
This gum resin has a strong astringent quality, and is one of the varieties of the Kino of commerce, (the other variety of Kino being brought from Africa, and is produced by a tree of the Pterocarpus genus.) When first it issues from the tree, it is of the consistence of very thick syrup, and immediately after rain may be seen flowing from an incision or cleft in the tree very abundantly, being then of a very beautiful light-red colour, becoming of a dark shining red, and hardening, by exposure to the air. The Angophora lanceolata, or apple-tree of the colonists, (a genus allied to that of Eucalyptus,) also yields a dark-red astringent gum from its trunk and branches.
After leaving Turril, turril, we proceeded through a flat, swampy, and uninteresting country, rendered still more tiresome by the drizzling rain. Having passed “Stony Creek,” and descended “Church Hill,” we were glad to obtain shelter at the farm of Mingablah, the property of Charles Cowper, Esq., after a journey of twenty-eight miles. The soil about this part of the country was of a fertile character, but stony; abounding in the whinstone.
Much of the dull time during our confinement to the house, from the heavy and continued rain, was passed away by the amusing relations of the overseer, who informed us he had, from a very tender age, a “propensity” to keep living animals. Since his arrival in this country, he had succeeded in domesticating a large number of parrots, who went in and out of the house, without making any attempt to escape from his protecting care. But one fatal day this pleasing domestic scene was changed to one of a tragical nature; for, at an unlucky hour, a stranger arrived, accompanied by a big dog of a black colour. The result proved that the dog had only one “propensity,” and that, to speak phrenologically, was “destructiveness.” So, availing himself of the absence of those of human creation, and excited by the aforesaid organ, and the dulness of the times, he began to attack and speedily demolish the frames of the pollies, scattered their limbs and feathers about, and did not leave one survivor to relate the tale. The horrid sight that met the affectionate eyes of the owner on his return, was his favourites, some with bowels protruding from their natural cavity; others minus heads and limbs; and all so damaged, as to have life extinguished. The big black dog even then was caught busily occupied in shaking about what remained of those unfortunate feathered bipeds. After this melancholy occurrence, he became disheartened from having any more favourites, and gave it to us as the cause why he had no curious animals at this time to show us, but in my opinion the relation was much more amusing than the animals would have been: so their absence, at least to us, was not a source of regret.
Although the rain still continued, we proceeded on our journey the following morning, being desirous of reaching Goulburn Plains, (which was now only twenty miles distant.) We passed through a swampy, thinly-wooded country, and by noon arrived at “Tarlo,” on the banks of the Cockbundoon river. Proceeding several miles further, from the summit of a hill near the road, we were gratified by a splendid distant view of a portion of Goulburn Plains, and the open forest land in its vicinity. We passed through the township, which at present contains only a few bark and wooden habitations. This situation for the township not being originally well chosen, it is the intention of government to remove it to a more suitable part of the plains.
We arrived in the evening at the prettily situated dwelling-house and fine estate of J. Bradley, Esq., called Lansdowne Park; from which there is a fine prospect of a very picturesque portion of the plains. This part of the country, (called “Goulburn Plains” and “Mulwerry” by the aborigines,) is a series of beautiful plains, clear of timber, except where a few scattered clumps of Banksia rosmarinifolia, or “honeysuckle,” are seen, readily distinguished by its dark appearance, contrasted by the lively carpeting of verdure beneath and around them; hills of moderate elevation, with sloping declivities, and wooded on their summits, divide the plains, and give a pleasing variety to the prospect; while distant mountains, having a blue tinge, terminate the view to the horizon: occasional patches of land under cultivation with grain, innumerable herds of cattle grazing, and flocks of sheep, attended by their shepherds, gave animation to the verdant plains, not yet browned by the parching summer heats.
The following morning we crossed the plains, through a still beautiful country, passing the farms of Messrs. Howey, Rossi, and Moore, near which the Wollandilly river flows in a fine stream; after a ride of nine miles, the weather being unfavourable, we sought shelter, and received a kind reception at “Cardross,” the farm of Mr. Kinghorne.
On the road, several of that elegant species of the Eucalyptus, the E. mannifera, or manna-tree, were seen, having just produced flower-buds; but no manna was yet secreted from the trees. Since leaving the Blue Mountain range, not a single shrub of the Warratah or tulip-tree (Telopea speciosissima) has been met with; and I heard from several persons that the attempts as yet made to rear it in the gardens in this part of the colony had failed. From the splendid beauty of its flowers, the introduction would be desirable, as conducing much to the ornamental appearance of the flower garden.