CHAPTER X.
Leave Yas Plains for Sydney—Mr. Shelly’s farm—Splendid new road—Mr. Barber’s farm—Shoalhaven gullies—Interesting spot—Mr. Campbell’s farm—Journey resumed—Settlement of Bong, Bong—Bargo Brush—Profusion of flowering shrubs—View from the summit of Mount Prudhoe—The cow pasture road—Farms of Mr. M’Arthur, and Captain Coghill—Flowers—The white cedar—Government hospital at Liverpool.
On the 13th of October, I left Yas Plains on my return to Sydney,[70] retracing my route by Gonnong, Mut, mut, billy, I arrived at Goulburn Plains on the 14th. Resuming my journey on the following morning, accompanied by some friends, they carried me a different route from that by which I arrived at the plains: the road led over a rather hilly but open forest and good pasture land, and, travelling a distance of fifteen miles, (when close brush asserted its triumph over the former fine country,) we arrived at Mr. Shelly’s farm on the “Grampian Hills.” Proceeding six miles beyond, we crossed the splendid new road, forming a portion of the great southern line: it was wide, yet unbeaten; a dense forest bounding it on either side as far as the eye could reach, the felled trees being placed along, to point out the breadth of the road. This did not appear requisite, as the thick forest sufficiently indicated it.
At a short distance further on, we turned off the more direct road, and arrived at Mr. Barber’s farm, close to which commences the extraordinary and extensive fissure, called the “Shoalhaven Gullies,” extending through a large tract of country to the sea coast. This farm possesses natural beauties of a sublime and romantic character; but the soil is principally rocky, and does not seem to possess the valuable requisites to a settler, that of arable land and good sheep pasturage, in any quantity. To a visitor, however, the romantic beauties of the Gullies are sufficient objects of attraction; and, accompanied by Mr. Hume, senior, I was taken, at a very short distance from the house, to as splendid a scene as has been perhaps yet discovered in this interesting and peculiar country. I much regret that time did not permit me to make a closer examination of these gullies, which appear to owe their existence to some sudden convulsion of nature that had violently rent the hills asunder; down the steep sides, a dense vegetation concealed their depth, although the eye could reach, unimpeded, sufficiently deep to enable some idea to be formed of the profoundness of these chasms. The largest and most extensive gully, said to possess the most beautiful scenery, was five miles distant.
The Shoalhaven river, which runs beneath, was not visible, although its murmuring, broken torrent could be heard. The wooded hills, varying in denseness, some trees overhanging the abyss, still further increased the sublimity of the scene; and occasionally in the evenings, a small species of kangaroo, called “rock kangaroo” by the colonists, was seen skipping about the hills. To a geologist, the examination of these localities would be highly interesting, as there are several caverns, in their limestone formations, with indications of fossil remains. Highly gratified by the view, I departed; and after leaving this farm, crossed a small, insignificant rivulet: this was the river (or, according to the colonial vocabulary, “creek”) which empties itself into the Shoalhaven Gullies; and its first fall into them was at no further distance than a hundred rods from this place. The first fall is from a height of perhaps sixteen feet; and there are several falls, altogether of about eighty feet, until the stream reaches the first gully; when in its progress, it receives tributary streams from the westward, forming the Shoalhaven river, which flows through these romantic glens, until it terminates by discharging its waters into the sea.
Our journey continued through a dull, uninteresting country; and late in the evening we arrived at “Wingelo,” the farm of Robert Campbell, Esq., by whom we were received with the kindest hospitality, and remained the night, after travelling rather more than twenty miles this day.
The next morning found us again “en route” over a good road; but gloomy forests and brush produced a dull scenery,[71] until, as we progressed, it became enlivened by the gay blossoms of Acacias, Patersonia, Daviesia, Pimelea; the long spikes of the grass-tree, with tufts of white flowers; and a few small and elegant trees of the Eucalyptus corymbosa, which were profusely covered with clusters of snowy blossoms. The large forest trees in this country have very small roots in proportion to their size and elevation, so much so as to excite surprise how they are capable of standing against the severe gusts of wind to which they are frequently exposed; and yet for trees to be uprooted by that cause is comparatively rare,—showing that nature is always correct in her work, however it may at first appear to our judgment.
On approaching the settlement of “Bong, Bong,” the wild forest had, in most places, given way to a cleared, cultivated, and beautiful country, forming a strong contrast to the gloomy bush we passed not long before. The vivid green of the fields of grain, in ear, but not yet mature, gave promise of a plentiful harvest; and clumps of trees, scattered about the pastures, sufficient to shelter the cattle from the parching heats of summer, added to the pleasing character of the scenery. The neat cottages, to which barns, stables, &c. were attached, sprinkled over the landscape; the distant wooded hills; and smiling fields, animated by cattle,—could not fail of exciting pleasurable sensations, and a favourable impression of this “land of promise,” sufficient to banish the disappointment which the dulness of many of the wild parts of the country is too apt to produce.
Numerous small farms, with fields of grain, pasturage land, abounding in cattle, horses, and sheep; neatly fenced paddocks, (for hedges are unknown,) continued more or less from this, which is called the settlement, to the township of “Bong, Bong,” a distance of five or six miles. At one of the farms we passed, the overseer did not appear to have yet received much benefit from the “march of intellect;” for on a board the following notice appeared:—No Thorrofaer Hear.
Arriving at the Argyle Inn, in the township of “Bong, Bong,” we thence proceeded, after remaining sufficient time to refresh ourselves and horses, intending to continue the night at “Mittagong,” ten miles further on. The weather was fine, but sultry; roads dusty, scenery dull and uninteresting, until descending to the valley in which the “Kangaroo or Cutter’s Inn” is situated, (after ascending the Mittagong range,) it was an agreeable change to behold a prospect of cleared and cultivated land, surrounded by dense forests, and ranges of densely-wooded hills in the distance. There was a quantity of land under cultivation for grain, pasturage, &c., animated by herds of cattle and flocks of sheep; and a windmill, made an excellent addition to the landscape. Neat cottages, with gardens, were scattered about; and, as it was near sunset at the time we arrived, the scene was still further increased in beauty. We soon reached the neat and comfortable inn, to which an excellent garden is attached, well stocked with rose trees, in full bloom, pinks, and other European flowering plants, as well as a number of European fruit trees; many of which, at this time, were profusely covered with snowy blossoms.
At dawn the next day, we were again on our journey: the morning proved delightfully cool and agreeable, and nature seemed refreshed by the night dews. A grateful fragrance emanated from the plants and shrubs around, and the birds, by their carolling, seemed to enjoy the cool atmosphere. The remainder of the “Mittagong range” was passed over, and a rugged road led through “Bargo Brush,” which is a dense forest, small portions only being occasionally seen cleared, on which a farm or inn is established. Adjoining, was usually a garden and land under cultivation. Although, for the most part, the dense and sombre forest prevailed, yet often the soil beneath was spread with a great number as well as variety of gay and beautiful flowering shrubs, and plants; among the most numerous of those at this time, in full bloom, were Gnaphalium, Crowea, Bossiea, Pomaderris, Patersonia, Persoonia, Daviesia, Banksia, Hakea, Xylomelum, Pimelea, &c. &c.
The new line of road we entered upon, was broad, straight, and in excellent condition. After travelling thirteen miles, we arrived at “Lupton’s Inn,” and did not find early rising, with a long morning’s ride, injuriously affect our appetites. Having breakfasted, we again proceeded over an excellent road, along which were neat houses, with gardens gay with the profusion of flowers, cleared patches of land under cultivation with grain, or forest land, animated by flowers; among them a beautiful Clematis was conspicuous, covering the bushes with a profusion of white blossoms, or pendent in graceful festoons from the dead trunk of a tree. Having crossed the “Bargo River,” an inconsiderable stream, and passed “Myrtle Creek,” which has several pretty farms about it, we reached “Stonequarry Creek,” which at this time was in a dangerous state for vehicles, more particularly for heavily laden drays, the road being much out of repair. There are several farms about this place, and some quantity of land under cultivation for grain.[72]
We passed the new line of road over the “Razor-back Mountain,” which was in an unfinished state; and, at first, some doubt existed whether this line would be completed, or another adopted; but it has been decided to finish it; for which purpose, road gangs were about to be employed upon it. On attaining the summit of Mount Prudhoe, an extensive and beautiful panoramic view of Appin, the Cowpastures, farms, together with cultivated and forest lands, &c. was laid before us in one extensive landscape. We descended by an excellent road, passed through “Camden,” the property of J. M’Arthur, Esq., came upon the Cowpasture road, crossing the Nepean river by a good wooden bridge, and arrived at Raby farm in the afternoon, after a long ride of forty-three miles. After occupying a few days in this vicinity, I proceeded to Sydney.
During my stay at the Cowpastures, I visited the fine farm at Kirkham, the residence of Captain Coghill, and his amiable family: this farm is valuable, consisting principally of rich arable land; the Nepean river also running by the estate, is a valuable acquisition for sheep-washing, &c. The summer was more advanced at this part of the country than further in the interior. Strawberries and cream was not an uncommon dish, and the fruit was very abundant this season. Green peas were also in large quantities, and the gardens bloomed with English, and the more delicate, but evanescent China varieties of roses, and in such profusion, that one might have died of “roses in aromatic pain.” Pinks, stocks, and other European flowers, caused the atmosphere to teem with fragrance, and charmed the eye. At some farms, the beautiful rose-tree, covered with its carnation-tinted blossoms, adorned the verandahs; the white and pink Robinia was attractive from the exquisite beauty imparted by its pendulous clusters of blossoms and the ornamental growth of the tree.
But another, combining beauty of growth with fragrant flowers, must not be omitted: it is the “white cedar” of the colony, and is indigenous to this country, as well as most parts of India: it is the Melia azedarach of botanists. The tree is deciduous, and was now covered by pendulous clusters of lilac-coloured blossoms, adding to the beauty and fragrance of the gardens, its lilac blossoms being elegantly contrasted by the dark green glossy foliage: the fragrance of the flowers so closely resembles those produced by the tree known in England as the “lilac,” that the same appellation is given to it in this colony. In the evenings, and night more especially, this tree may be known to exist in the vicinity by the powerful fragrance it emits for some distance.[73] The sweetbriar and quince is often used about the farms as hedges for gardens, &c., and the appearance they give is extremely neat; the fragrance of the former is very agreeable. The Cape and English mulberry trees thrive well in the colony; the former is said to bear fruit two or three times annually, the latter only once.
In my way to Sydney, I availed myself of the kindness of Dr. Hill, the colonial surgeon, to visit the government hospital at Liverpool; it is the finest in the colony, but in my opinion of too large and expensive construction for the purpose required. The wards were spacious, well ventilated, and in excellent order, such indeed as might be creditable to any of our metropolitan hospitals. The patients receive every attention and comfort that their situation may require.[74] There are sometimes one hundred and fifty in the hospital, but the wards are capable of containing more. When it is considered that patients come to this hospital from a distance of two hundred miles, (that is, from the Murrumbidgee country, and even beyond,) including a large extent of district, a large building may have been thought requisite; but the more convenient and less expensive method would have been, to have built two hospitals of moderate size, one at Goulburn Plains, and the other at Liverpool; for it was a sad mistake to compel an invalid to travel a distance of two hundred miles for medical assistance; and affords a facility for many to feign sickness, that they might have a journey down the country to see their friends, causing much inconvenience to the settler, who has no other means of ascertaining the man’s complaint, but by taking him to this distant hospital.
The scheming of the assigned servants is very annoying to the settler: the men often feign sickness, to be revenged upon their masters: several instances of this kind I have seen at a distance of one hundred and eighty-six, and two hundred miles from Liverpool. When requested, during my visit to the interior, to see these men, some were ill, but unable to undergo the fatigue of travelling so far to the hospital; others suddenly got well, and went to their work, when medical assistance was so near them: one boasted, that by methods known to himself he could produce appearances of disease so as to deceive any medical practitioner; he had but just returned from the Liverpool hospital, and was always ill, his master informed me, during the most busy times. The establishment of an hospital at Goulburn Plains would obviate most of this just cause of complaint made by the settler.[75]
There is a lunatic asylum at Liverpool, which I also inspected: there were several patients of both sexes within its walls. The establishment was small, and the building did not appear to have been originally constructed for the purpose for which it was used.