CHAPTER XX.
Visit from the young Rajah—Native weapons—Costume—The “trading minister” and his boy—Inspection of the ship by the natives—Population of the Pedir district—Rambles on the coast—King Crabs—Land crabs—Ova of fish—Soldier crabs—Their food—The Rajah’s house—Cocoa-nut water—Habitations in the Rajah’s inclosure—The fort—The bazaar—Banks of the river—Plants—Native fishing—Fruits—The country farther inland—Vegetation—The Eju Palm—A fine plain.
On the afternoon of the following day we had the honour of a visit from the young rajah; he came off in one of the large native boats, seated upon a platform on the stern, in the oriental fashion. Having no state-boat he came in this, which was merely one of the usual cargo, or fishing boats, which are large and spacious, with a small deck or platform at the after-part. Many of the rowers were attired in scarlet jackets, some having, and others being deficient in sleeves, and all seemed to have dressed themselves in their best apparel; all wore elegant krisses, for the whole of the natives, whether of the Malay or Hindostanee races, wear the Kris or the Klawang, (a kind of short sword,) and are seldom or never seen without: the manufacture of these weapons varies both in the blades and handles, and all the varieties are designated by distinct native names; from the form of the blades severe wounds must be caused by them, and many of the natives wore scars obtained by them in their private quarrels. The handles were formed of whale’s teeth, or buffalo horn; and the sheaths of various beautiful woods, of which a kind of satin-wood seemed to have the preference; the wood is said not to be luted together (nor has it the appearance of being so) in the construction of the sheath, but is hollowed in an ingenious manner from a solid piece, and is very liable to split with the least blow; they are tastefully ornamented with a kind of tatauing, or carving, performed with a small knife, into which, after the carving is completed, some black pigment is rubbed, which gives an increased effect to the decoration. They place a high value on the krisses and klawangs, and they are usually ornamented with gold or silver, according to the rank and wealth of the owner. The cutting portion of the blade is formed of steel, the remainder of iron; the temper of the weapons is not good, being extremely brittle.
The rajah was attired in the same apparel as on our interview yesterday, but his followers formed, in dress, a motley group. There was a fine looking lad, about fourteen years of age, who came with the party; he was step-brother to the rajah, or, as we were informed by a Moorman who spoke some English, “one father, two mothers, rajah, and this boy;” he was dressed in a scarlet jacket, decorated with gold lace, a handsome kris, and wore gold bangles around his ancles. The young rajah ran about the ship, seeming to enjoy all he beheld; mistook the sow (who behaved remarkably well on this occasion, neither grunting nor giving any indications of the suspicious family to which she belonged, but set upon her haunches gazing unmeaningly at the visitors, who held her race in abhorrence) for a kind of dog; and was delighted with the turkies, which he had never seen before. A pair of the birds were presented to him, and also a sheep, at which he was much gratified.
Our thin spare friend, the “trading minister,” and also a train of attendants and merchants, accompanied the rajah; the former antiquated personage brought with him his son, a little boy about four or five years old; he was a keen, black-eyed little fellow, wore a Moorman’s cap elegantly worked with gold lace, on his little shaved cranium; a scarlet jacket and trowsers, a number of gold and silver bangles about his wrists and ancles, and an amulet or charm (which consists of a sentence from the Koran, written and placed in a case, to protect the wearer from injury—the priests make a good harvest in this kind of traffic, which appears to me strictly analogous to the African fetishes) pended from his neck; the dark diminutive creature chattered incessantly, and was inquisitive about every thing it saw; appeared devoid of fear, and was quite tame, suffering itself to be handled with impunity.
After all our sable visitors had concluded their rambles over, and inspection of, the ship, they were invited into the cuddy, seated round the table, and cabin biscuit and cheese were placed before them. They evinced some partiality to the former, by devouring large quantities themselves, and passing supplies to the numerous attendants who could not feed at the table; they could not be induced thus publicly to taste wine or beer, being against the Mahometan creed, but preferred cocoa-nut water, which they said “is our wine and beer;” but few would refuse either wine or spirits in private.
I amused them with some drawings; among others they recognized that of the Pearly Nautilus, but said it was rarely procured at this place, but was occasionally seen off the coast. They named it “sea shrimp,” Udang laut; (Udang, shrimp; and laut, sea;) they were not acquainted with the Orang Utan, of which I showed them an engraving, but immediately knew that of the Hylobates syndactyla, or “Ungka” ape, which, they observed, was found in the woods of the interior of this island, but was very difficult to capture alive.
The rajah having remained for some time on board, retired with his attendants to the boat, and returned on shore, under a salute of three guns from the ship, which compliment he also received on coming on board. The rajah of Pedir is related to the king of Acheen, and the territory is tributary to the Acheenese ruler. The population of the Pedir district, (which does not extend far along the coast, but to some distance inland,) is stated to be 100,000, and has several petty rajahs tributary to it; but they appear all petty rajahs along this coast, paying homage and tribute to the Acheenese king.
Often during the cool evenings, I amused myself by wandering about the extensive beach on this coast, to observe and collect such marine productions as might be interesting; a great number of dead shells strewed the beach, but living shells, or those containing the soft parts, were rare. Observing an antenna of some crustaceous animal projecting from the moist sand, left by the receding of the tide, I pulled it, and drew out two fine king crabs, jointed together by their under surfaces, and thus united burrow in the sand; they are called “Ecan, mimi” by the Javanese, and, on this coast, they are named “Moi, moi.” The male is larger than the female; they are eaten by the Javanese, but on this coast they are not eaten, although the natives observe the Chinese are fond of them.[144] The females lay their eggs in the sand, after carrying them for some time, and, in about the second month, the young are produced; these animals are perfectly harmless; they crawl rapidly, and when touched draw the upper part of the shell a little inwards; and, as they move, the long antenna bears a resemblance to a tail. When placed on the back, they find much difficulty in regaining their natural position.
Land crabs[145] were numerous, as were also the shells of the genera Cytherea, Tellina, Mactra, Conus, Oliva, Cypræa, Harpa, Dolium, Murex, Turbo, Nerita, and Dentalium; but although this was an indication of the number about the coast, yet but very few were procured in which the living animals were found. Among these was a number of the Venus, and small species of Voluta: the latter buried themselves with rapidity in the sand; the natives call them “Dunkin.” Almost buried in a deep black mud, among which the roots of mangrove trees abounded, the trees having been cut down, I found a number of white bodies growing from a piece of rotten wood, and being each about an inch in length,[146] and three-eighths of an inch in breadth, containing a watery fluid, called “Sepur” by the natives; they were not, however, eaten or used for any purpose by them. I preserved several specimens in spirits.
A great number of the Pagurii, hermit or soldier crabs, of different sizes, were running about the beach; two large specimens, that I found, had each taken possession of the Dolium perdix, or partridge shell, to which they were as firmly attached as if in their natural habitation. The crustaceous portion of these animals is of a beautiful lilac colour, the softer parts yellow, and the antennæ of a dark red colour; the natives call them by the general name of “Sepo;” the smaller kind inhabit Murices, Trochi, Neritæ, Helices, Lymneæ, Cerethii, and other univalve shells. In some instances I saw large shells of Harpa, &c., inhabited by very small animals of this kind, moving their heavy and cumbrous dwelling slowly and with difficulty; there were some of a red, and others of a sea-green colour, but the larger were invariably of a beautiful lilac. May not this change of colour depend upon their age?
The Pagurii feed upon dead animals, fish, and all kinds of offal, as well as vegetable matter, such as skins of plantains, remains of cocoa nuts, fruits, &c. I have often observed a number of these creatures of various sizes congregated about a dead and putrid fish, and it is ludicrous, on disturbing them in the midst of their feast, to see them marching away, jumbling and overturning one another in the hurry, causing a clattering noise to proceed from the collision of their burrowed coverings; and should they not be able to escape capture they draw themselves closely into the shell, closing the aperture so firmly, by crossing the claws over the entrance, as to render it impossible to extract them without breaking the shell to pieces. Thus secured, they remain immoveable and apparently dead, and may be kicked or thrown about, without giving any indications of life; but danger passed, they emerge partly from the shell as before, and move briskly away. The natives use them occasionally, but rarely, as food.
It is not an improbable supposition, that the ova of these curious crustaceous animals are deposited in the empty shells lying upon the beach; and the changes these crustacea undergo is one of the most interesting subjects of investigation which could engage the attention of a practical naturalist. It is a curious fact that, no matter whatever form the univalve shell may have, the posterior or soft parts of the animal inhabiting it are accommodated to it; thus causing persons not accustomed to observe the changes of natural objects to regard this as the original inhabitant; and it is oftentimes difficult to persuade them of the reverse: the posterior portion of the animal being naked, and the anterior crustaceous, the former evidently requires some protection.
One morning (having previously received a general invitation) I visited the rajah at his habitation: the situation was an extensive plot of ground, containing numerous houses in the usual Malay style of building, being the residences of the rajah, his wives, and attendants; the whole enclosed by lofty waving bamboos, forming a close and impenetrable fence; and the interior planted with a number of fruit trees and flowering shrubs. The entrance was by a gateway, over which was a small room, in which his highness receives visitors, or wiles away a leisure hour in smoking, talking, or sleeping. I ascended to it by a bamboo ladder, and found myself in a cool but dirty room, containing a small bed, over which a mat was laid; the curtains about it seemed to have remained in ignorance, since they came from the loom, of the application of water. Some carved boxes, (one of which served me for a seat,) a native shield, and a few other trumpery articles, constituted the furniture of the apartment. And here I was received in a cordial manner by the rajah.
His highness was attired in a common Madras cloth sarong and sandalong, which, like the curtains, seemed never to have undergone ablution; he wore, in lieu of a turban, the usual particoloured Moorman’s cap or cupia, which merely covered the top of his head. The personal appearance of the rajah reminded me of the tribe of animals they abhor for uncleanness—I allude to the hog, of which he informed us there were plenty wild, if we were desirous of hunting them.
Cocoa-nut water was introduced, being the usual beverage in the country, and proving both wholesome and refreshing. The cocoa palm abounds, and they have numerous varieties. The Malay name for the nut is Kalapas; in the Acheenese language the tree is called Ba, hu, (ba signifying tree, and hu cocoa-nut,)—a ripe nut, Hu, massa,—and a green one, Hu, mudar.[147] This palm forms a beautiful and picturesque object in the tropical landscape. In the Appendix I purpose giving an account of this valuable, ornamental, and useful palm, and the various uses for which it is employed in the different countries where it abounds.[148]
The habitations in the rajah’s inclosure were raised from the ground, (which is the usual Malay style of constructing houses,) and were ascended by means of rude bamboo ladders. They are formed, for the most part, of bamboo, and thatched with palm leaves; but one of larger size and neater style was the immediate residence of the rajah and his wives; the young rajah having, as we were informed, two concubines, eighteen years of age each,—and a child, now four years old, betrothed to him as his intended wife. Near the habitations the cocoa, plantain, orange, mango, and custard apple trees grew, shading them by the grandeur and profusion of their foliage. There was also a house (which from the commencement, being now in frame, appeared intended to be of some extent,) which had been commenced by the old rajah not long before his death; but the building was obliged to be discontinued by the young rajah, on his succession, from a want of the necessary funds for its construction.
At one part of the inclosure a bamboo ladder ascended to a little elevation, which brought us to a plank, over which we passed into the fort adjoining the residence of the rajah, and was mounted with several large brass guns, most of which had the arms of the East India Company upon them. The fort was built of stone, elevated about sixteen or eighteen feet from the ground, covered over with a thatch of palm leaves, and having a look-out house upon the summit. There were lamps, which are lighted after dark, and remain so during the night, a sentinel being also stationed there. From some large rents in the walls of the fort, it was evident that the concussion of the guns, if fired off, (which they had not yet been,) would bring the whole fabric down about their ears: the minister and “authorities” thought the same, and said a stronger fort was to be built, when a sufficient number of stones calculated for the purpose could be collected.[149] Although abundance of cocoa-nut water was given us to drink, yet nothing was offered us to eat; by which I should infer, they conceived white people lived, like humming birds, upon suction.
On leaving the rajah’s place, my guides took me again to the bazaar, where it appears to be a custom to take strangers: this I attribute to their Mahometan prejudices, of not being desirous of receiving Christians under their roofs. Here mats were placed, so that I might be seated, and gazed at, like a curious animal, by a large crowd of natives of all classes and orders, who, from the eagerness they evinced, and the crowds which assembled around us upon these occasions, seemed to regard Europeans as curiosities. However, instead of waiting to be gazed at, I amused myself by wandering over the bazaar, which was plentifully supplied with sugar-canes, plantains, rice, cucumbers, dried fish, sere, (the leaf of the piper betel,) the Areka nut, or Pinong, cut up ready for mastication, and a quantity of live stock, as small bullocks, ducks, fowls, &c. &c.
From the bazaar I walked down by the banks of the river, upon the raised paths which intersected the numerous marshes, which now, during the dry season, abounded in luxuriant grass and other herbaceous plants, affording fine feeding for the numerous bullocks (of the small hunch-backed Bengal breed) and buffaloes, which roamed about. During the rainy season the whole of this flat is planted with rice, which, together with the scattered picturesque habitations, and groups of palms and other trees, form, by their combination, a very pleasing landscape. Upon the banks of the river was the Acrostic humaureum, or “Ongpi” of the natives, as well as the “Ba, jurugu,” or Acanthus ilicifolius, covered with a profusion of blue flowers; and brilliant butterflies and other insects flew about the rich vegetation, which was so profusely strewed about. Surrounding a hut near the river was the “Sekar,” a species of Pandanus, the younger leaves of which several women were engaged in collecting: they are bleached by soaking in water, and afterwards exposing them to the heat of the sun. Being thus prepared, they manufacture them into various kinds of coarse mats.
The Thespesia populnea, profusely covered with its large yellow flowers, and called “Onseran” by the natives, was very common about their habitations, forming usually a portion of the fence around their gardens. A leafless species of the Euphorbiaceæ family, which they named “Bugar,” was also growing plentifully in the hedges: they did not use it medicinally, but said, if the juice was taken internally, it would produce violent pain and excessive vomiting. Having arrived at a fisherman’s station, we crossed over a creek in one of the large fishing boats, in which the seine was very large, and manufactured from the fibres of the trunk of a palm, (which I shall hereafter have occasion to mention,) this fibrous material is known by the common name of “black coir;” it is strong, elastic, and very durable.
A number of natives were fishing upon the banks of the river with their peculiar hand-nets, called “Gniap:” this net is of a similar appearance, but of course smaller, to that used in the “Sarambeau fishing rafts,” at Manilla, of which there is a very correct figure in the Voyage of La Perouse, 8vo. Engl. ed. vol. ii. p. 322. On examining the contents of the baskets, which were rudely formed from the spathe of the Areka palm, they were found to contain only a few small fish, prawns, and biongs, or crabs. On their success, my native attendants informed me, the fishermen depend for their daily meal. During the rice and betel nut harvest, they earn their subsistence by cutting and threshing the former, and gathering and shelling the latter; but when the season for those productions has passed, they depend upon the fish caught with the hand-net, as a subsistence for themselves and families.
I stood by one of them to see “a haul:” after a short time had elapsed, the heavy net was raised, and contained only a solitary fish and a few crabs. The nets were baited with crabs’ claws, tied about different parts. On a marsh near this spot a flock of two kinds of crane was feeding; one species small and white, and named “Ecuar,” the other much larger, of a greyish colour, and named “Ngnar, ngnar,” by the natives.
Fruit was at this season scarce, a few guavas, plantains, and “jack,” was all that could be procured; but during the season, mangoosteens, a variety of plantains and bananas, oranges, pine-apples, mangoes, and other tropical fruits, could be procured in abundance. Having ranged about the Pedir Rajah’s district, near the sea coast, I returned on board in the evening with the collection I had made.
Among the natives that occasionally came on board with the cargo boats, as well as those seen on shore, consisting of different races of Hindoostan, Malays, &c. there were several with the African features and hair; none of whom, however, were well-formed or handsome men, but still seemed to possess great muscular power. They were of that African race designated the “Black Arabs,” who are shipped as seamen on board vessels at Bushire and other places in the Persian Gulf. When I was looking at this variety of the human race, one of the rajah’s followers said he was the property of the rajah, and he would sell him to me, if I wanted him. As I did not require a specimen of that kind, I declined this very obliging offer. The land and sea breezes were for some days very regular, and at others extremely irregular, varying also in their degree of strength. The range of the thermometer, during the short period I remained on this coast, was from 79° to 88°.[150]
Early one morning, a party was formed, to endeavour to obtain a view of the country further inland. On landing at the village of Pedir, we were met by the old trading minister, who accompanied us. The houses of the natives were constructed of bamboo, raised, like all the Malay residences, upon strong posts, a short distance from the ground, and the ascent to the rooms above, was by bamboo ladders. The habitations are covered with a thatch, formed from the leaves of different kinds of palms; and the dwellings are cool. This quality, so desirable in sultry climates, is given to them by gardens surrounding the habitations, filled with trees, imparting a refreshing verdure; and from the blossoms delightful odours were exhaled. Among the more elevated kinds, were the graceful and majestic cocoa-nut, and the straight Areka palm, (Areka catechu,) surmounted by its tuft of dark-green foliage, and its long pendent clusters of orange-coloured fruit, of an oval form.
The Artocarpus incisa, or Jack-tree, the broad-leaved plantain, the mango, orange, lime, and occasionally, but rarely, the bread-fruit trees, (A. integrifolia,) ornamented the garden. That most elegant as well as largest of the gramineous plants, the bamboo, (“Triang” of the natives,) was abundant, as fences about many of the dwellings, (as well as the Erythrina corollodendron, or Mangkudu of the natives; the Jatropha curcas, or “Bánawa” of the natives,[151]) and in distinct clumps; the Piper betel trailed up some of the trees, and the Abrus precatorius, (Anasagar of the natives,) with its pods, containing small, but beautiful crimson seeds, hung in festoons from the bushes in the jungle, and a Diosma, called Un grupuum by the natives, was abundant and fragrant; the Manihot (Jatropha manihot) was also seen; and although I was informed the root was prepared and eaten, the shrub did not seem to be extensively planted. The Carambola-trees (Averrhoa carambola) were numerous, and called Boslemang. A quantity of the fruit was observed laid upon a raised bamboo platform, spread out to dry in the sun, and the natives appeared fond of eating them in a raw state, as well as using them in many of their curries, and other dishes.
About some of the native habitations, that large and elegant palm, the Borossus gomutus of Loureiro, the Saguerus pinnatus of the Batavian Transactions, and the Cleophora of Gœrtner, was planted: it is the “Anau” of the Sumatrans; was called at this place “Eju” and “Doh” by the Javanese: it is valued on account of excellent toddy being extracted from it; but more especially for the black fibres collected from the trunk, about the bases of the petioles of the fronds; which fibrous substance resembles somewhat in its appearance, as well as elasticity, horsehair; and it is highly esteemed for the manufacture of rope used for their seines, vessels, &c.; the very thick fibres, the natives say, the Moormen resident here use as pens, and call them “Puré Eju:” it is probably the same tree from which the fibres, called Cabo-negro by the Spaniards, are procured at Manilla, and from which they also manufacture rope.
We continued our ramble over a fine plain, terminated in the distance by palms: bamboos, the broad-leaved plantain, and other elegant trees were seen, ornamenting some lonely habitation, the roof just appearing above the dense foliage. This plain at one season of the year is covered with rice-fields; but was now dried up: the stubble of the former harvest remained, and the whole was covered by an abundance of herbage, affording feeding for herds of cattle. A number of various species of Grylli were hopping about the fields, and were caught by the native boys for my entomological collection: they called them, in the language of the country, “Daruar,” and these insects are eaten by the natives.