Chelsea, in the Olden & Present Times

by George Bryan

HYDE PARK ON THE THAMES.

That part of the river, known as Chelsea Reach, was so fashionable a rendezvous of pleasure boats and barges in the reign of Charles II. that some persons have described the scene as being a sort of Pall Mall Afloat, and it was called “Hyde Park on the Thames,” in that king’s reign. The reach is the widest of any part westward of London Bridge, which rendered it peculiarly suitable for such grand aquatic displays. There were dukes and duchesses, marquises, earls, and barons, with a similar fashionable throng to that which may still be witnessed in Hyde Park. The watermen were arrayed in dresses of all colours, and the whole presented a scene of grandeur which cannot be adequately described.

Fishing, at the above period, was carried on to a very considerable extent at Chelsea; but, owing to the fishermen using unlawful nets, and other causes, it fell into decay, and, finally, proved an unprofitable speculation. In my earlier days two or three fishermen earned a scanty living by selling the fish they caught, and a few lovers of angling also occasionally “pulled up” some very fine roach and dace, in the prime season, at Battersea Bridge.

SAILING MATCHES.

The river at Chelsea, some years since, presented in the summer season a very animating and pleasing scene. The sailing matches attracted numbers from London, and excited great interest amongst the inhabitants. As aged men, however, are said to see nothing now equal to “the days when they were young,”—and lest it should be thought I was magnifying the scene, making the sailing matches of former days something like, for excitement and enthusiasm, the present renowned Oxford and Cambridge Boat Races—I will endeavour to avoid the possibility of being charged with giving an exaggerated description of them. But, seriously speaking, it may be said, with truth, that Cheyne Walk and Battersea Bridge, on such occasions, were crowded with many of the nobility, and a vast number of ladies and gentlemen, either in carriages or on horseback. The fleet of sailing boats, with the little Spitfire generally ahead, and “Tom Bettsworth,” [41] the owner, on board, when seen at a short distance approaching Chelsea, with the sun shining on the white canvas sails, and other pleasure boats decorated with flags, in many of which were musicians playing various lively popular tunes, presented a sort of miniature resemblance to those delightful spectacles which are now only to be seen off Erith, &c. The steamboats have rendered such displays impracticable for some years past at Chelsea, and pleasures of this kind must give way to the transactions of business and public convenience. Commodore Capt. Harrison, a distinguished member of one of the first Yacht Clubs, took a great interest in the Chelsea Sailing Matches. He resided in the parish, and was highly esteemed for his conviviality and gentlemanly deportment. His remains were interred in the Brompton Cemetery.

I will now renew the notices of distinguished residents in this part of the parish, occasionally giving a short description of new public erections, and other interesting particulars.

Henry Sampson Woodfall, Esq., was born in Little Britain, in 1739, and when he retired from the active affairs of life, he took a house in Lombard Street, near the Old Church. At a very early age he had the honour of receiving from Mr. Pope half-a-crown for reading to him, with much fluency, a page of Homer. When twelve years old he was sent to St. Paul’s School, on leaving which he was apprenticed to his father, a printer in Paternoster Row; and at the age of nineteen he had committed to his charge the whole business of editing and printing the “Public Advertiser.” From this period till the beginning of 1793, he continued constantly in the exercise of this laborious function. During so long a time, when parties ran extremely high in politics, it is not surprising that a printer should have gotten into some difficulties. He used jocularly to say to his Chelsea friends that he had been fined and confined by the Court of King’s Bench; fined by the House of Lords and Commons, and indicted at the Old Bailey. He laid particular emphasis on the words “fined” and “confined.” His conduct respecting those celebrated letters, signed Junius, displayed great integrity and disinterestedness of character. He associated much with Garrick, Coleman, Bonnel, Thornton, Smollett, Goldsmith, and other wits of his day, and his own conversation overflowed with interesting anecdotes.

In this street resided for many years Mr. W. Lewis, bookbinder, the intimate friend of Dr. Smollett, and his fellow companion, on their journey from Edinburgh to London. It was by the advice of Smollett that he settled at Chelsea; he is pourtrayed in the novel of “Roderick Random,” under the character of Strap the Barber, and many facetious anecdotes are there related of his simplicity, vanity, and ignorance of the world. Mr. Lewis died about 1785.

Danvers Street was begun to be built in the latter end of the 17th century, on the site of Danvers Gardens, and from thence takes its name. Danvers House adjoined Sir Thomas More’s estate, if it was not actually a part of his property, or that of his son in-law, Roper; there existed anciently a thoroughfare or private way between the houses in Lombard Street, on the north side, towards the King’s Road, but to what extent cannot now be ascertained.

Sir John Danvers, who possessed this property as early as the reign of Elizabeth, was the younger brother of Sir H. Danvers, created Earl of Danby in 1625, and by reason of his noble birth was made Gentleman Usher to King Charles the First. In this promotion, having more pride than wit, he lived above his income, and finding himself plunged deeply in debt, and discarded by his family and his Sovereign for associating with the seditious, and propagating their principles about the Court, he, with hopes of gain, and of protection from his creditors, joined the rebels, always embraced the religion of the prevailing party, and at last submitted to that base office, to assist with his presence in the mock court of justice, and, with his hand and seal to the warrant annexed, to take away the life of that king whose bread he had eaten; being induced thereto (as a writer of that period states) chiefly through an expectation of ousting his brother, and seizing upon his estate for his own use, by the same authority and power as so unjustly cut off his Majesty’s head. He died a natural death in 1659, before the restoration.

Sir John married Magdalen, daughter of Sir Richard Newport, and relict of Sir Richard Herbert, by whom she was mother of the famous Lord Herbert of Cherbury.

After the death of her first husband this lady continued a widow twelve years, and was highly esteemed for her great and harmless wit, cheerful gravity, and obliging behaviour, which gained her an acquaintance and friendship with most people of eminent worth or learning in the University of Oxford, where she lived four years, to take care of the education of her eldest son, her children being all young at the death of their father. She died in 1627, and was buried at Chelsea. The Dean of St. Paul’s, whilst preaching her funeral sermon, could not refrain from tears, as Walton reports, who was present.

Danvers House passed from the Danvers family to the Hon. T. Wharton, who, by Queen Anne, in 1714, was created Marquis of Wharton. The house was pulled down about 1716. The garden and grounds extended to the King’s Road; considerable remains of this house were discovered on the site of Paultons Square in 1822, consisting of the foundations of walls, the remains of the great bath, and various fragments of stone pillars and capitals, the whole covering a great space of land, but being considered by the proprietor, Mr. Shepherd, nurseryman, too extensive to take up, they were again covered with earth. It was Sir John Danvers who first introduced into this country the Italian method of horticulture, of which his garden was a most beautiful specimen. Against the wall of the house at the south end of Danvers Street, is placed a stone thus inscribed:—“This is Danvers Street, begun in ye year 1696 by Benjamin Stafford.” In 1742 this was a public house, the sign of the Bell, which was suspended across the street. The house at the south-west corner was also, it is said, formerly a public house, known by the sign of the Angel.

Duke Street, as already indirectly intimated, was first built at the time when the Duke of Buckingham resided at the “greatest house in Chelsea,” and was thus named in compliment to that nobleman. There is nothing clearly known as to the origin of Lombard Street.

Luke Thomas Flood, Esq., first resided in Cheyne Walk, but afterwards removed to the spacious house at the western corner of Beaufort Street, fronting the river. He was a very great benefactor to the parish, an active and intelligent magistrate, and interested himself in promoting at all times whatever was conducive to the welfare and improvement of Chelsea. He was treasurer of the Parish Schools for many years, and, in 1818, through his indefatigable exertions, he succeeded in nearly doubling the number of children that had attended them, and who were clothed and educated free of expense to their parents. Towards the close of his life he went to Brighton, where he remained till his death, which occurred about 1860. His munificent annual gifts to the poor of this parish, as bequeathed in his will, but which he desired to be at once carried into effect, during his remaining days, will cause his memory to be revered in this parish by all future generations. Mr. Flood possessed some valuable pictures by the most eminent Masters.

Charles Hatchett, Esq., resided in the adjoining house, known as Belle Vue House. It was built by his father, in 1771. In it was a small but choice collection of pictures, amongst which were two landscapes, by Salvator Rosa; a Madonna and Child, by Andrea del Sarto; a beautiful small landscape, by Van Goen; another by Ferg, and a large one by George Barrett, R.A., with cattle, by the elder Mr. Gilpin. A very excellent portrait of Mrs. Hatchett, by Gainsborough; and a picture, supposed to be by Giovanni Bellini, the subject “a Dead Christ and Holy Family.” The library was very extensive, containing many valuable editions of the Greek and Latin Classics, a numerous series of historical works, and the voluminous Transactions and Memoirs of the Royal Society. The collection of manuscript and printed music was also very considerable. Mr. Hatchett was the author of several works on chemical science, and was a magistrate for the county. He contributed to most of the local charities, and as a private gentleman was much respected. He died in 1846, at an advanced age.

Lindsey House, the Moravians, &c.

This ancient mansion stands also in front of the river, and adjoined Sir Thomas More’s. It was erected by the Earl of Lindsey, in the reign of Charles II., on the site of a house originally built by Sir Theodore Mayerne, an eminent physician, and the only instance on record of a physician who was retained in that character by four kings. He lived many years in Chelsea, and died here at the age of 82. At his death, Robert, Earl of Lindsey, purchased the house, which he pulled down, and erected the present edifice; it has, however, undergone great alterations by subsequent proprietors, and is now divided into five houses. The Earl of Lindsey died in 1701, but his widow resided here till 1705. In the same year Lindsey House was occupied by Ursula, Countess Dowager of Plymouth, and by her son, Lord Windsor. It was afterwards in the possession of Francis, Lord Conway, the second son of Sir E. Seymour, who was created a peer in 1703. By his third wife, Charlotte, sister to Lady Walpole, he had Francis, Marquis of Hertford, who was born at Chelsea in 1718. The house continued in the Ancaster family till 1750, when it was purchased for the Moravian Society.

Count Zinzendorf, who was the purchaser, formed an intention of establishing a settlement at Chelsea for the Moravians, and took a plot of ground to erect a large building for the reception of three hundred families, to carry on a manufactory; and, besides possessing Lindsey House, he also purchased a piece of ground, part of the gardens of Beaufort House, for a burial ground, together with the stables belonging to that old mansion, and likewise a slip of ground to erect a chapel. The chapel was fitted up, but the settlement, which was to be called Sharon, failed. The house was, however, inhabited by some of the society. Count Zinzendorf himself lived there, and presided over the community as long as he dwelt in England. In 1754 an English provincial Synod was held here, at which the minister of the brethren’s church at London, John Gambold, a divine greatly esteemed for his piety and learning by several English bishops, who were his cotemporaries at Oxford, was consecrated a bishop of the church of the brethren; he had previously published a hymn book for the children belonging to the brethren’s congregation, printed entirely with his own hands at Lindsey House. The inmates of the house consisted chiefly of Germans and missionaries, for whose use the Count principally intended the establishment, that they might make it a sort of caravansera or resting place when they arrived in this country, in passing to or from their various missionary establishments in the British dominions. The panels of the great staircase, being wainscotted, were painted by Haidt, a celebrated German artist; there were also in the house several admirable portraits. The house was sold by the society in 1770. There has not been any other settlement for the Moravians since that period. Their church is episcopal and has been acknowledged as such by Parliament. They live, in their settlements, like members of one large family; the most perfect harmony prevails amongst them, and they seem to have but one wish at heart, the propagation of the Gospel and the general good of mankind.

The Moravian Burial Ground, the entrance to which is at the north end of Milman’s Row, occupies about two acres of ground. The whole is divided into four distinct compartments. The brethren are buried in separate divisions from those of the sisters; for, as in their public assemblies, they still adhere to the ancient custom of separating the sexes, the men occupying one, and the women the other side of the chapel, so they retain it even in their burying ground. The tomb-stones are all flat, placed on turf, raised about six inches above the ground, in regular rows. The inscriptions in general record only the names and age of the persons interred. Amongst them are the following:—

William Hammond, 1783, formerly a clergyman of the Church of England; he was of St. John’s College, Cambridge, and was the author of a book, entitled, “The Marrow of the Gospel,” being the substance of some sermons preached before the University. He was a man of considerable learning, and an excellent Greek scholar, in which language he wrote his own life. The late Rev. Mr. La Trobe had the manuscript in his possession some years ago.

James Fraser, aged 63, 1808, who made fifty-six voyages between England and Labrador, in the service of the Moravian Missions on that coast.

James Hutton, 1795, of whom there is an engraved portrait in mezzotinto, with a trumpet to his ear. This worthy and well-known character was accustomed to pay morning visits to some of the first families in Chelsea; he used likewise to seek out objects that were in distress, and relieved them according to their necessities. The character of Albany, in Miss Burney’s celebrated novel of Cecilia, is said to be meant for his portrait. He died in the 80th year of his age.

The Rev. C. J. La Trobe succeeded him as secretary to the brethren.

James Gillray, 1799, forty years sexton at this cemetery, father of Gillray the celebrated caricaturist, whose works are so much admired for their spirit and effect.

Pætrus Bæhler, 1770. A very active Minister among the Moravians, and one of their bishops. He came to England in 1738, was very intimate with Wesley and Whitfield, whom he visited at Oxford, and who were in the same ship with him when he went to America as Minister of the Colony of Georgia.

Benjamin La Trobe, 1786, father of the Rev. C. J. La Trobe, a man of distinguished excellence as a preacher, the editor of several religious works, and for a long time superintendent of the congregation in England. He removed many “absurdities which prevailed in their religious proceedings, and which had subjected the whole community to unmerited scandal.”

Christian Renatus, Count of Zinzendorf, May 28, 1832. There is against the south wall of the chapel a tablet to his memory. He was the only son of the celebrated Count Zinzendorf.

Mary Theresa Stonehouse, daughter of Sir John Crisp, Bart., and wife of the Rev. George Stonehouse, 1751. This monument is on the right of the preceding.

In this cemetery also lies buried an Esquimaux Indian, called Nunak. As he had not been baptized, he was not permitted to lie in the same division with the community, but was placed outside the walk under an elm tree, having an inscription to his memory in the same style as the rest of the Brethren.

The burial service of the church is particularly impressive. The coffin being deposited in the middle of the chapel, a hymn is sung by the congregation, for they value and carefully cultivate music as a science, and the responses of their liturgies are attended with peculiar effect. The Minister then delivers a discourse, in which some account is given of the deceased, with suitable exhortations. The form of service contained in their Liturgy is next read, and the congregation then follow the corpse, the men walking together, and the women the same. A scriptural passage is read, commencing as follows. “Meanwhile none of us liveth to himself; for whether we live, we live unto the Lord, and whether we die, we die unto the Lord,” &c. The following is then sung by the congregation:—

“Now to the earth let these remains
In hope committed be,
Until the body, chang’d, obtains
Blest immortality.”

While the above verse is being sung the body is let down into the grave. A prayer is then offered, and the whole is concluded by singing a verse of another hymn.

The chapel at the north side of the burial ground occupies the site of the old stables of Beaufort House. It is a plain building, displaying no architectural adornments, and it is now upwards of fifty years since Divine service was performed in it by the brethren. For a long time it has been occupied as a schoolroom for the boys belonging to Park Chapel National and Sunday Schools, and most of the annual meetings of the numerous societies, which are supported by the congregation of Park Chapel, are at present held in it.

The house adjoining the entrance to the Moravian Chapel and Burial Ground, some few years since pulled down, was for many years in the occupation of the Howard family, of the Society of Friends. The elder Mr. Howard was gardener to Sir Hans Sloane; his brother having a natural genius for mechanics, became a clockmaker, and made the clock in the Old Church, in 1761, for the sum of £50. In the front of Howard’s house was placed a large clock, and hence the origin of the appellation, “Clock House,” as now applied to what was once the Moravian chapel.