Chelsea, in the Olden & Present Times

by George Bryan

THE KING’S ROAD CEMETERY.

This cemetery adjoins the workhouse, and the ground was the gift of Sir Hans Sloane. It was consecrated in 1736, by Edmund Gibson, Bishop of London. In 1790 it was enlarged by a grant from Lord Cadogan.

The obelisk, near the centre, was erected to the memory of Andrew Millar, an eminent bookseller in London, who died in 1768, aged 61 years; he had little pretensions to learning, but possessed a very nice discrimination in selecting his literary counsellors.

On a flat stone, on the north side, is an inscription in memory of John Martyn, F.R.S., Professor of Botany at Cambridge, and Eulalia, his wife, youngest daughter of the Rev. Dr. King, rector. She died in 1748–9, and Mr. Martyn in 1768.

John Baptist Cipriani, the celebrated artist, and one of the earliest members of the Royal Academy, was interred in this burial ground. On the north side is a tomb to his memory. Cipriani excelled in delineating the human figure, and was much employed by the printsellers in making drawings, which are well known by Bartolozzi’s beautiful engravings from them; he died in 1785, aged 58.

The Rev. Philip Withers, D.D., July 1790. In 1779 he published proposals for a splendid edition of the Table of Cebes, with plates and notes, intended for the benefit of the Sons of the Clergy, but owing to some misunderstanding with Archbishop Cornwallis, the work never appeared; he lived in Sloane Square in 1789, and imprudently published several libellous pamphlets, for which he was convicted. He was committed to Newgate for twelve months, fined £50, and died there of a fever.

Dr. Sloane Ellesmere, rector, was buried here in 1766; and Lady Rous, aged 90, widow of Sir W. Rous, Alderman of London, in 1777.

Hannah Aston and Anne Aston, two sisters, died in 1806. These unfortunate young women were daughters of Mr. Aston, of Robinson’s Lane (now Flood Street), and had been with a party to Richmond. On their return the boat struck on a barge near Putney Bridge, by which accident they were both drowned, together with Mr. Isaac Van Butchell, son of the eccentric Dr. Van Butchell.

In this ground is the family vault of the Rev. Weeden Butler, whom we have noticed amongst the residents in Cheyne Walk.

Mr. John Fraser, nurseryman, who resided many years in the King’s Road, close to Sloane Square; he was ardently attached to botanical researches, and several times explored the wilds of North America; he died in 1811.

Mrs. Elizabeth Smith, of the King’s Road, died in 1828, in the 49th year of her age, after a short but severe illness.

There have been but few interments in this burial ground for many years. When the new St. Luke’s cemetery was completed, in 1812, this ground was closed, excepting to those who had relatives previously buried in it. The population of the parish, from the year just mentioned, rapidly increased, and the burials, about 1832, amounted in the year to upwards of 600, but many of these belonged to the adjoining parishes, and a large proportion were children.

The King’s Road:
ITS ORIGIN, EARLY CONDITION, AND PRESENT STATE.

As this road is the central great thoroughfare through Chelsea, some early particulars respecting it cannot be otherwise than interesting. It was originally only a footway through the fields, for the use of the farmers and gardeners to get access to their lands; but soon after the restoration of Charles II. it was found a convenient way for his Majesty to go to Hampton Court Palace, and thus it was, after some discussion between the Government and the parishioners of Chelsea, converted into a coach road. The following extracts from the petition of Sir Hans Sloane, Bart., Lord of the Manor, and other freeholders, will give a sufficient detail of its history and origin, and from which it appears that disputes had arisen concerning the right of way; and after the claims of the inhabitants had been considered by the Lords Commissioners of his Majesty’s Treasury, the matter was finally decided in their favour in the year 1719, the 5th of George I.:—

To the Rt. Hon. the Lords of His Majesty’s Treasury, &c. [153a]

“That before the restoration of King Charles the Second, and some time after, the fields of Chelsea were open fields; and that the bridge, called Bloody Bridge, [153b] was only a foot-bridge, with a plank or board; and the way leading thence to the lane facing Blackland House, [153c] was then only a foot-path of about five feet wide, and the lands on each side were plowed and sowed close up to the same; and that from the said lane to the town gate was only a baulk, or head land, of about ten or twelve feet broad, or thereabouts; and the lands on each side of the said head-lands were also ploughed up to the edges thereof; and that the said head-land was used by the owners and occupiers of the said lands for a way, egress and regress, to their lands, with ploughs and other utensils of husbandry, and to carry off their crops from their lands, time out of mind. That some time after the restoration, King Charles II. built Bloody Bridge, as it now stands; and, as we are informed, agreed with the then Lord of the Manor, and others concerned, for the said head-land, for his Majesty’s private road, allowing the freeholders their ancient way through the same. Whereupon the king made the road with gravel, and the landowners ditched out their lands on each side of the same; and the king took upon him the repair of the gate at the town end (which before was maintained by the parishioners), and as soon as the fields were sown, was hung up and shut, and, after harvest, was always open until seed time returned again, as many yet alive well remember. And ever since the landholders of the said parish have been in possession of a free way and passage to their lands through the said road, (some persons having no other way,) and were never denied it during the reigns of King Charles the Second, King James, King William, and Queen Anne, as we can make appear by sufficient evidence. Now, whereas, upon his present Majesty’s repairing the said road, the present Surveyor-General has given orders to shut the gates against the landholders of Chelsea, to their great detriment, and, as we conceive, to the debarring them of their right. We humbly beg your Lordships will take the matter into your consideration, hear our evidence, and grant us such relief as, in your great wisdom, you shall think fit. That the late Duchess Dowager of Beaufort (to whose stables and offices there is no other way), about five or six years ago, ordered her stewards and servants to cut down a turnpike, which Mr. Manly, the Surveyor-General, had set up between the walls at the corner, next Church Lane (Street); and they carried the posts away, being set up, as she said, upon her ground.”

To this petition was attached the evidence of several of the freeholders, in confirmation of what was stated in the above petition. One of these was given by Mr. Matthew Hutchins, gardener, of the King’s Road.

The above petition was referred to Hugh Cholmley, Esq., Surveyor-General, and William Watkins, Esq., Surveyor of his Majesty’s private roads. The reports from these two official gentlemen were evasive and unsatisfactory, and consequently a second statement was sent to the Commissioners, in reply to the objections. This last statement from Sir Hans Sloane was dated May 6, 1719.

On the same day (May 6) the following letter was received:—“My Lords direct Mr. Watkins to permit the tenants of the lands adjoining to the King’s Road, through Chelsea, to have free passage through the same, with their carts and horses, in the manner they have been accustomed to; and that the ditches which belong to the land, and lately filled up, be opened again.”

The above particulars explain the origin of placing the gates, or bars, at different parts of the King’s Road, and which many of the parishioners at the present time well remember.

Daring robberies and murders appear to have been very frequent about this period, especially in the Five Fields, (now Eaton Square, &c.) and along the whole line of the King’s Private Road.

Mr. Timbs, F.S.A., says, “In the King’s Road, near the spot where is now the Vestry Hall, the Earl of Peterborough was stopped by highwaymen in what was then a narrow lane; and the robbers, being watched by some soldiers, who formed a part of the guard at Chelsea College, were fired at from behind the hedge; one of these highwaymen turned out to be a student in the Temple, whose father having lost his estate, his son lived by ‘play, sharping, and a little on the highway,’ the desperate resources of the day.”

In September, 1753, a Mr. Crouch, cook to the Earl of Harrington, was attacked at night by two men who took his watch and money, and then stabbed him with a knife and beat him till he died. [155]

The following most diabolical and remarkable case of burglary and murder occurred in the King’s Road in 1771:—

On the site of the King’s Parade (near to Oakley Square) stood an ancient farm, which was in the occupation of the family of Mrs. Hutchins for many years. She was a widow, and some Jews it appeared made inquiries as to her circumstances, and considering there was a chance of obtaining valuable booty, determined on robbing the house. In June, 1771, they sauntered about the fields till 10 o’clock at night, and then went and knocked at the door, which was opened by a female servant, when immediately eight Jews entered the house. They seized the girl and treated her with great severity. Mrs. Hutchins went to her servant’s assistance, but one of them, Levi Weil, called Dr. Weil, compelled her to sit in a chair, after which he threw part of her clothes over her head to prevent her seeing their faces, and threatened to murder her if she made any resistance. They then went up stairs to a room, where Joseph Slow and William Stone, two men servants, were in bed, and in a sound sleep. Dr. Weil gave Stone a violent blow on the breast, when Slow instantly started up, on which the others cried out “Shoot him!” and a pistol was fired, the ball from which entered the body of Slow, who exclaimed, “Lord have mercy upon me! I am murdered! I am murdered!” They then dragged him to the stairs, which, being observed by Stone, he made his escape out of the window. They then robbed the house, and demanded money of Mrs. Hutchins, one of them struck her violently, and threatened to kill her. She was compelled at length to give her watch and 64 guineas, after which they quitted the house. Mrs. Hutchins then went to see her servants. She found the two maid-servants bound together; and no sooner had she given them their liberty than the wounded man said, “How are you, madam, for I am dying.” These words were scarcely uttered, when he fell down on the floor, and having suffered the most excruciating pain, expired on the following day, leaving a wife and two children to lament his loss.

The robbery and murder was no sooner known than a reward was offered from the Secretary of State’s office, for the apprehension of the gang. The offer was seconded by that of a much larger reward from the City of London; and also another of £50 from the parishioners of Chelsea.

The murderers, however, remained undiscoverd for a considerable time till Daniel Isaacs, one of the gang, became the means of discovering his accomplices, in the following manner:—Isaacs, being touched with remorse of conscience, &c., sent for a friend and acknowledged himself to be one of the nine men concerned in the robbery and murder at Mrs. Hutchins’s, at Chelsea. He desired his friend to inform some magistrate of it; and having told him the names and places of abode of his accomplices, his friend went immediately to Sir John Fielding, at Bow Street, who sent the officers after them, by which means seven of them were taken. The cause of this confession and remorse of conduct, on the part of Isaacs, was distress. He applied for relief to the elders of the Jewish synagogue, but the treasurer refused him any immediate assistance, urging as a reason that he should not have left his native country, Holland, where he might have obtained probably an honest living. At that time a great number of Jews came to this country, and a selection of cases could only be relieved. Isaacs, in consequence of the refusal, became greatly distressed, and, in order to gain the reward, offered by the City of London, made the above confession.

Isaacs was admitted to give evidence against his accomplices, six of whom were soon apprehended, but the other made his escape. There appears to have been some discrepancy as regards the number of the gang, one account states eight, while another mentions nine.

At the Old Bailey Sessions, in December, 1771, Levi Weil, Asher Weil, Marcus Hartogh, Jacob Lazarus, Solomon Porter, Hyam Lazarus, and Abraham Linewill, (the man who had absconded) were indicted for the robbery and murder, when the two of the name of Weil, with Jacob Lazarus and Solomon Porter, were capitally convicted, and Marcus Hartogh and Hyam Lazarus were acquitted.

Mrs. Hutchins deposed on the trial, that about six weeks before her house was robbed, Hyam Lazarus came to it, inquiring for one Beetham, a weaver, when she said she knew no such person; that on the 11th of June, the night of the robbery she heard the dog bark, about ten o’clock at night, her men being then gone to bed; that she called to one of her two maid-servants to see what was the matter with the dog, and shortly after, hearing a noise, she ran herself to see, and found her maid, Mary Hodgkin, with her cap off, and some men using her extremely ill; that to the best of her remembrance, she recollected Levi Weil and Hyam Lazarus to be among these men; and though her fright was exceedingly great, she did her endeavour to assist her maid, but that Levi Weil (called the Doctor,) pushed her into a chair, and pulled her upper petticoat over her face, which hindered her seeing any of the rest. Hearing her cook cry very much, one of them said, “Cut her throat;” another, “If you don’t hold your tongue, I will cut your throat.” Then coming to her (Mrs. Hutchins) they offered to tie her legs, and she begged they would not, as she would not stir; whereupon they all went to another room, the door of which being locked, they said they would break it, if not immediately opened, and returned from it in about five minutes; that then going up stairs, she shortly after heard somebody cry “fire!” and after much swearing, heard also a pistol go off, and a man cried out, and begged they would not; that, endeavouring to get out at the back door, she was prevented by some men on the outside, who told her if they were not her friends they would blow her brains out; that then returning to her chair, she heard a very great noise above stairs, as if they were throwing the servant down, and a little while after she heard another pistol go off; that the wounded man, endeavouring to get down, came to her, and said, “How are you ma’am, for I am a dead man;” on which, turning short, he fell on the ground; that his shirt was on fire close to the wound just under the shoulder, which she put out, that he groaned very much, and complained of being cold; that the people in the house, running from room to room, came down to her, and Levi Weil, to the best of her knowledge, took the buckles out of her shoes, and two others attempted to put their hands into her pockets; she begged they would not, saying she would give them something worth their acceptance, and accordingly gave them her purse and watch; that asking where her plate was, she told them, and they took it out of the cupboard, and gave it to their companions at the back door. That going into the parlour, where there was a cupboard, they broke it open; and she following, told them there was nothing in it worth having but paper; but that one of them, a short, thick, elderly man, struck her on the face with a pistol, and would have shot her, had not the Doctor turned the pistol with his hand.

The Recorder prefaced the sentence with a judicious and just compliment to the principal Jews, for their very laudable conduct in the course of the prosecution, and hoped no person would stigmatize a whole nation for the villanies of a few.

These men, as was customary formerly in cases of murder, were tried on a Friday, and on the following day (the Jewish Sabbath) they were anathematized in the Synagogue.

As their execution was to take place on the following Monday, one of the Rabbies went to them in the press-room of Newgate, and delivered to each of them a Hebrew book, but declined attending them to the place of death, nor even prayed with them, at the time of his visit. Their wives and children were admitted to take their leave of them before they set out for Tyburn, where executions took place. [159]

An immense number of people attended the execution. They prayed together, sung an hymn in the Hebrew language, and soon afterwards were launched into eternity.

The following anecdote, in reference to this daring robbery, was very frequently related many years ago, and I do not remember that its veracity was ever questioned. Soon after the conviction of the Jews, the Queen paid a visit to Mrs. Hutchins, and, after expressing the deepest sympathy for her sufferings, desired to be informed whether she could advance the interests of any member of the family. A circumstance was mentioned to her Majesty, which resulted in one of the junior branches being ultimately educated at one of the Universities.

We will now briefly notice the King’s Road, as it was at the earlier part of the present century. At the entrance into Chelsea parish, at the eastern end of Sloane Square, the bridge, to which we have several times referred, was at that period probably about 14 or 16ft. wide, on both sides of which there was a wall of sufficient height to protect passengers from falling into the narrow rivulet which it spanned, and which belonged to the commissioners of sewers. There were two little cottages near to this stream, and immediately contiguous to them was Mr. Burgess’s premises, who carried on a very good business, as a coach builder, &c. The houses around Sloane Square were nearly the same as they are at the present time, but the square was an open space, simply enclosed by wooden posts, connected by iron chains, where boys frequently played at cricket, &c. Here, too, Queen Charlotte’s Royal Volunteers often assembled, and marched off in military order to Hyde Park, accompanied by an excellent band.

In 1812 the Chelsea and Brompton Dispensary was established in Sloane Square, principally through the great exertions of the Rev. George Clark, M.A., the then chaplain of the Royal Military Asylum. At the meeting convened for that purpose, the late W. Wilberforce, Esq., M.P., presided, whose name will be ever associated with the abolition of slavery, and as the advocate of almost every humane society in this country. This admirable institution indicates the rapid growth of the population. The earliest annual average of patients did not exceed 1200, in 1860 it was upwards of 6000, and since the last date the number has greatly increased. The first physicians were Dr. Ainsley and Dr. Adam Black, and its first surgeons Robert Smith and Anthony Todd Thomson, Esqrs.

Mr. Fraser’s Botanical Grounds adjoined Sloane Square. He explored distant parts of the world several times, so ardently attached was he to botanical researches. He was patronized by a large number of the nobility and gentry. His death took place, in 1811, at his residence.

It will be seen shortly that if the King’s Road, in the “Olden Times,” was almost exclusively occupied by farmers and gardeners, that, for a number of years afterwards, one of the principal attractions to it was the many celebrated nursery and floricultural grounds.

The high wall at the Royal Military Asylum, which formed the back of the boys’ lavatory, &c., and which stood more forward than the present enclosure, had no pathway whatever against it, and the road being at one part very narrow, it was not only inconvenient but at times dangerous.

Mr. Colvill’s Nursery Ground stood on the site of Colvill Terrace, and the entrance to it was at the eastern corner. His display of flowers excited general admiration, and consequently an immense number of the gentry generally paid him a daily visit during the summer season.. The grounds, however, were only enclosed with an old wooden fence, and here again there was no footway for passengers.

Mr. Thomas Davey was also a celebrated florist, and his ground was opposite what was called the White Stiles, now known as the Royal Avenue to Chelsea College. The origin of the former name arose from there being an ornamental stile at the entrances.

The grounds of Mr. Colvill were detached from those of Mr. Davey by a footpath, on both sides of which there were neatly-trimmed hedges, and as butterflies abound in floricultural gardens, this passage was called “Butterfly Alley.” Some houses have since been built on this site, and, although the road is narrow, it now assumes the name of Keppel Street, connecting the King’s Road with the Fulham Road. Opposite the above-named alley there was a bar placed across the road, to prevent waggons, &c., from passing unless the driver produced proof that he was going to some resident in it. The origin of these bars has just been fully detailed.

Mr. Pratt, a friend of Mr. Faulkner, wrote the following lines, “Flowers and Fashion,” in reference to the above two celebrated floricultural grounds:—

Where smiling Chelsea spreads the cultur’d lands,
Sacred to Flora a pavilion stands,
And yet a second temple neighb’ring near
Nurses the fragrance of the various year;
Of Davey this, of Colvill that, the care,
While both the favour of the goddess share.
But not for her—the deity of flowers—
Alone the incense breathes, still higher Powers:—
Fair Venus marks each temple for her own,
And Fashion sits upon a blossom’d throne.
She, pow’r supreme! bids vanquish’d Flora kneel,
And drags proud Beauty at her chariot wheel.
The Cyprian Queen asserts her loftier sway,
And blushing rivals with a smile obey.
At Fashion’s shrine unnumber’d suppliants bow,
And to their idol chaunt the sacred vow.
A thousand Eves, each as their mother fair,
To these gay Edens every hour repair:
And though the wreaths boast but a fleeting bloom,
And often press at eve a twilight tomb,
Still, as by magic, we behold each morn
A fresh supply the pillag’d scenes adorn;
And though the lovely plunderers bear away
The fairy sweets that open’d with the day;
Though one fair Paradise is lost each night,
Another blooms with the returning light.
Thus, strange to tell! near London you behold
The age of Fashion, Beauty, and of Gold.

The old White Hart public-house and tea-gardens, situated on the opposite side of the road to Mr. Davey’s grounds, was a rather ancient-looking place of resort. It was well-conducted, and occasionally a great many persons visited it. On its site is now a very respectable tavern.

Near to this house, a little to the east, about 1818, a poor man was sitting by the roadside, apparently in the most pitiable state of hunger and destitution. A pensioner belonging to Chelsea Hospital, a man of colour, was passing along at the time with a can of soup and a small loaf of bread, which he had just previously received as his dinner allowance, some of the men being allowed to have private lodgings. The pensioner gazed for a moment at the wretched object of misery, and then, with a heart full of sympathy, gave him some of the soup and bread. Such an act of benevolence excited the attention of a very young man, who, whenever he met the kind-hearted black pensioner, always felt a feeling of respect for him. Some time afterwards it came to the knowledge of this youth that the pensioner had been convicted of a certain crime, not now a capital offence, and sentenced to be executed. This communication very much surprised him, but he could not erase from his memory the humane conduct he had witnessed. Accordingly, he went to Newgate on the following day, unknown to his friends, to see the condemned malefactor. On his arrival at the prison the turnkey at the entrance door refused him admittance, and told him, in a gruff manner, that he must get an order. He then went direct to the Sheriff’s residence, and, after some conversation, obtained a special order for admission. The turnkey now became very respectful, and the young man was immediately conducted to the yard where the condemned prisoners took the benefit of the fresh air. The aged convict’s appearance was much altered, and during nearly the whole time of the visit tears rolled down his cheeks. He was thus visited several times, and, at length, through a petition presented by the authorities at Chelsea Hospital, and another from some of the parishioners, the unhappy black man’s sentence was mitigated to transportation for life. At one of the interviews, the culprit asked for some memorial of the young man’s kindness, having been previously told that his life would be spared, and a Bible was given to him, with the name of the youthful donor written in it. An assurance was given that he would see him again that week, but when the young man went the poor black pensioner had been removed from the prison, and he never heard of him afterwards. The evidence produced at the trial fully justified the verdict of being guilty of the charge, but there was gross culpability on the part of the prosecutrix.

A little beyond the old White Hart tea gardens, to the west, on the same side of the road, was the residence of the elder Mr. Downing. It stood in a neatly laid out garden, and resembled very much in appearance one of those old but comfortable retreats which may still be seen by the roadside in some parts of the country. Adjoining the garden was his extensive Floor Cloth Manufactory (on the site of which is now Wellington Square). This spacious building was situated a short distance from the road, and the approach to it was by a carriage-way on each side, the centre being a grass plat. In this manufactory were held most of the earlier annual meetings of the Chelsea Auxiliary Bible Society, which were invariably crowded. Amongst the speakers were the Rev. G. Clark, M.A., the Rev. John Owen, M.A., the Rev. Joseph Hughes, M.A., the Rev. John Morison, D.D., the Rev. R. H. Shepherd, the Rev. John Bunce, and several others. Mr. Downing, sen., was a gentleman esteemed alike for his piety and benevolence, and his sons and other branches of the family have at all times maintained a similar respect.

The residence and manufactory which we have just described was pulled down some years ago, and the present one was then erected. A deplorable event occurred, about 38 years since, at Messrs. Downings’ new Floor Cloth Manufactory, which it is requisite to notice in a work of this description. A young man, whose name was Butler, the son of very worthy parents, and who had borne a tolerably good character previous to the fatal event we are about to mention, was convicted and executed at Newgate, for setting fire to a portion of the premises. The fire broke out in or near to the stables, and as it occurred on the Sunday morning, between the hours of twelve and one o’clock, the horses were of course locked in them. It was with great difficulty that they were rescued. The evidence, although principally circumstantial, resulted in the jury finding a verdict of “Guilty.” Notwithstanding the most strenuous efforts to save the life of the young man, he suffered the extreme penalty of the then law. A Wesleyan minister, who attended him at his last moments, published a pamphlet stating his reasons for believing that he was innocent. He was interred in St. Luke’s Burial Ground, and the Church was crowded to excess.

On the same side of the road, and opposite Wellington Square, was formerly the Nursery belonging to Mr. Moore. A little further westward was the residence of Mr. Evans, sen., known as Box Farm. For many years he lived there, and was much respected in the parish.

Smith Street was begun to be built in 1794, by the late Thomas Smith, Esq., of Manor Terrace, but it was not finally; completed until about 1807.

Mr. Little’s Nursery Ground was established many years since, and at the present time it is celebrated for the production of some of the choicest plants and flowers.

Jubilee Place was first opened in 1809, and named in commemoration of that event in the annals of the reign of George the Third.

Flood Street, it appears, by ancient documents, was originally called Pound Lane, probably from the pound of the manor standing on or near its site. It was known for some years by the name of Robinson’s Lane, and since the buildings were continued to the King’s Road, it was, by an order from the magistrates, called Queen Street. It has recently been altered to Flood Street, so named as a tribute to the memory of Luke Thomas Flood, Esq., for his munificent annual gifts to the poor of this parish, and by doing which many mistakes are now obviated, as there was and is still Queen’s Road West adjoining Cheyne Walk.

Upper Manor Street was originally called Wellesley Street, in honour of the Rev. Dr. Wellesley, the then rector of the parish. A murder was committed in this street about forty years since, which created great excitement throughout Chelsea. An elderly female resided in one of the houses, and she was found dead early one morning under circumstances which left no doubt whatever that the dreadful crime just mentioned had been perpetrated. Two men were apprehended, who lived in the neighbourhood, and who had been seen standing near the house at about 12 o’clock the preceding night, but beyond that fact no further evidence was adduced. It appeared they were both at a public house that evening, and left when it was closed, but they produced no witnesses to prove that they went afterwards direct to their homes. The evidence in support of the charge being insufficient, the magistrate discharged them. One of them was a second time charged with the murder, but the result was the same. The name of the street was then altered.

Robert Street, and the adjacent streets, have all been built in the course of the present century.

Mr. Roll’s Nursery Grounds were situated two or three doors from that old established house, the “Six Bells,” and joined Argyll House. His son carried on the business for many years, and the family were greatly respected.

Edward James Mascall, Esq., a gentleman who occasionally took a very active part in parochial affairs, resided in what is now called Argyll House for many years.

The entrance to Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, was anciently a back way to the stable-yard of Alston House, in Cheyne Walk. Some years ago the stone frame-work of the gate was visible in a garden in Upper Cheyne Row. Formerly the parishioners had only the privilege of a footway through the glebe land from the King’s Road, as appears from the following extract from the Vestry Minutes:—

“1755. Sept. 18. Whereas the road leading from the north end of Great Cheyne Row over the glebe land to the King’s Private Road, is the proper right of Mr. John Narbonne, of this parish, and whereas the inhabitants of this parish do frequently pass and repass that way, not only with corpse to the New Burying Ground, but to the Workhouse contiguous, as well as to other places; and as the privilege is only upon sufferance, by consent, and during the pleasure of Mr. Narbonne, therefore we unanimously agree to pay him and his heirs, as long as this privilege shall continue, upon the 1st day of May in every year, being from the day the Burying Ground was consecrated, the sum of one shilling, which we order shall be paid by the churchwardens for the time being.” There have been no material alterations made from its recent state during my remembrance; but Cook’s Grounds will soon be no longer recognised as it was in 1868, as many very superior houses are now being erected, which will be presently noticed.

Mr. Pamplin, another celebrated nurseryman, resided at the western corner of Cook’s Grounds. The old dwelling-house has just been pulled down.

The King’s Parade, opposite Cook’s Grounds, was erected in 1810. It is no longer known as the “Parade”—principally so called on account of the stone-pavement, which was considered then a luxury to walk on at that part of the road—but is now included under the general appellation of the King’s Road.

Mr. Edward Wright, comedian, of the Adelphi Theatre, lived at Merton Villa, Trafalgar Square, opposite Cook’s Grounds, for some time. He died in France some few years ago.

On the site of Oakley Square there still remained a portion of Mrs. Hutchins’s market garden. The road at this spot was very narrow, and no pathway for passengers on that side. Here, again, there was an obstructive bar placed across the road.

Mr. Faulkner mentions a singular circumstance that occurred just at this place. He says, “About the year 1796, I was present at a stag-hunt in Chelsea. The animal swam across the river from Battersea, and made for Lord Cremorne’s grounds; and upon being driven from thence ran along the water-side as far as the Church, and turning up Church Lane (street), at last took refuge in Mrs. Hutchins’s barn, where he was taken alive.”

A little on the west of Oakley Square, in a spacious house, Mrs. Kelly, the author of several novels, conducted a most respectable school. It was subsequently taken for the reception of invalid soldiers, who came to pass the Board at Chelsea Hospital, previous to their discharge from the army. This house, long since pulled down, was said to have been built about the year 1715.

Adjoining the preceding house, and at the corner of Upper Church Street, was the “Rose and Crown,” a small road-side public-house, standing much below the level of the road, and, from its appearance, had evidently been built at an early period. At the entrance was a wooden bench, on which many a weary traveller took rest. On the site of this house is now the Cadogan Arms.

Passing Church Street, and proceeding westward, the road was extremely narrow. At the south corner of Church Street there was an additional house to what there is at the present time, and the old residence on the opposite side, lately pulled down, projected several feet forward on the road, without any pathway for foot-passengers. There is now a capital carriage-road and a good pavement, with some commanding shops at the northern corner.

Adjoining, on the north side of the King’s Road, are the extensive premises of Messrs. Ransome and Co., the eminent saw-mill engineers, &c.

On the opposite side were the Nursery Grounds belonging to Mr. Shepard, the main portion of which now forms Paultons Square, and the remainder, formerly in the occupation of Mr. H. Larner, has recently been purchased by Mr. Gray, the horticultural builder, in addition to his extensive works in Danvers Street. He is making very considerable alterations, and, when completed, it will no doubt be an ornament to this fashionably frequented road.

The late Mr. Alfred Mellon, so celebrated for his concerts, and musical entertainments, lived for a considerable time in what is known as “The Vale,” which is situated on the opposite side to Paultons Square, where he died some two or three years since. He was buried in the Brompton Cemetery, and his funeral was attended by a great many of his private friends, and by a large number of the most eminent men in the musical and theatrical world, by all of whom he was highly respected.

Mr. John Varley, the celebrated water colour painter, and principal founder of the old Society now in Pall Mall East, whose works are well known to the world, lived at 10, Beaufort Row, now Beaufort Street, about the year 1810. His town house was in Conduit Street, Regent Street. During the time he resided here he made a very excellent drawing of the Old Church, from near the Bishop of Winchester’s Palace, in Cheyne Walk, the property of J. H. Chance, Esq., which was lent and exhibited at the Great Exhibition of 1862. Many other beautiful sketches of Chelsea were made by Mr. Varley from the shores, as well as from one of Mr. Bettsworth’s boats, which was always at his service. Some of the family have long been and are now residents in Chelsea and Brompton. Mr. John Varley was born in 1778, and died in 1842.

When Mr. Varley left Chelsea, Mr. Dorrell, the artist, took the house, and afterwards Mr. J. Stark, the well-known oil painter of woodland scenes, occupied it. Two prettily painted pieces, although small, are now to be seen at the South Kensington Museum. Mr. Stark was born in 1794, and died in 1859.

Wilson Lowry, F.R.S., M.G.S., lived near to Battersea Bridge, about the year 1809. He was known not only for his eminence as an engraver, but also for his extensive knowledge of anatomy, natural philosophy, mathematics, mineralogy, and geology, added to an extraordinary talent for metaphysical discussion, which placed him on terms of intimacy with the first philosophers and most scientific men of his day, and in the year 1812, unsolicited, was elected a Fellow of the Royal Society, next to Sir Joshua Reynolds, the only artist who was honoured by such a conferment. He died in 1824, in his 63rd year. Mr. Lowry’s only daughter by his second wife was Mr. John Varley’s second wife.

Mr. John Galt, the author of “Sir Archibald Wylie,” and the “Ayrshire Legatees,” lived in Beaufort Row about 1809.

Mr. Ralph Wedgwood, (of the firm of Josiah Wedgwood and Co.,) the celebrated manufacturers of the Queen’s Ware, died at Chelsea in 1837.

Mr. Bentley, one of Mr. Wedgwood’s partners, superintended a branch establishment at Chelsea, about 1770, for finishing and painting the best pieces.

Mr. Paul Bedford, the popular comedian, late of the Adelphi and Haymarket Theatres, resides in Lindsey Place. He is much respected in private life, and as an actor few have obtained greater celebrity.

Returning to the King’s Road, and proceeding from Beaufort Street, we arrive at “the Man in the Moon” tavern. There are many conjectures respecting the origin of the sign of this house, but nothing certain has been elucidated. As a celebrated neighbouring tavern was called the “World’s End,” perhaps the original proprietor thought he would give his house an equally singular sign.

We have already noticed the Clock House, Lord and Lady Cremorne’s Villa (now known as Cremorne Gardens), Ashburnham House, Stanley House, St. Mark’s College, &c.; but there are one or two others to which we will now briefly allude. The first of these is Messrs. Christie’s Flour Mills, established a great many years ago. The premises are situated at the western extremity of the parish, and close to the Chelsea Railway Station. Mr. Ormson, horticultural builder, resides at Dudmaston House, which is opposite the entrance to St. Mark’s College.

The King’s Road, at the commencement of this century, was by no means a place for general business. There were here and there, it is true, tradesmen who succeeded very well, but, generally speaking, the line of road was almost exclusively occupied by nurserymen and florists, and thus it became a fashionable resort for the nobility and gentry. The road, in most parts, was very narrow, and the different grounds were mostly enclosed by wooden palings. There was nothing like a good pathway for passengers, excepting at certain places. At night there were only a few gloomy oil-lamps, and the lives and property of the inhabitants were principally entrusted to a small number of private watchmen. When disturbances or robberies in the streets occurred in the daytime, the tradesmen-constables of the parish had the onerous and sometimes the dangerous duty to quell them, and take into custody the offenders or perpetrators. It need scarcely be added that when sent for, on such occasions, the constables were frequently—“Not at home!”

Let us now take a glance at the present state of the King’s Road, and a few more of the vast improvements which have been made in it. But, before doing so, we will give some particulars descriptive of a novel enterprise which is attracting a large share of public attention at the present time.

The Chelsea Steam Captive Balloon.—This monster aerial balloon ascends daily, weather permitting, from a part of the grounds known as the Ashburnham estate, a little beyond Cremorne Gardens. The balloon itself is 93 feet in diameter, and has a cubical capacity for gas of 421,161 ft. It is capable of taking up into the air no less than 30 passengers, and is attached to one strong rope, 2000 ft. long, which passes round a balance wheel, and thence to a large cylinder worked by an engine of 200 horse power. These appliances are all fitted in a kind of amphitheatre, from the centre of which the ascents take place. The supposed altitude to which the rope allows ascent is 2000 feet, but as a rule the height is generally less. The cost of the balloon alone is stated to be £24,000, and the value of the gas required (pure hydrogen) £600. It is composed of linen and India rubber, made of five thicknesses, and is the property of a French gentleman well known for his attachment to scientific experiments.

On the opposite side of the road, and adjoining St. Mark’s College, is Mr. Veitch’s Royal Exotic Nursery. These grounds for a great many years belonged to Mr. Knight, who possessed a most choice collection of Cape plants, &c., and who was patronized by nearly all the nobility and gentry in this country. Mr. Veitch has fully sustained the celebrity acquired by his predecessor.

A little further eastward is Mr. W. Bull’s Nursery, and on the opposite side is the Ashburnham Park Nursery, belonging to Mr. J. W. Wimsett. Both of them are distinguished cultivators of rare and valuable plants.

Near to Cremorne Gardens, on the opposite side of the road, is the extensive Show Establishment belonging to John Weeks and Co., Horticultural Builders and Hot-Water Apparatus Manufacturers, Engineers, and Iron Founders. The Horticultural Building and Engineering department is carried on near to Messrs. Downing’s Floor Cloth Manufactory, in the King’s Road.

Proceeding on, eastward, we arrive once more at Cook’s Grounds, which was, as previously stated, a private way originally to the stabling of Sir Joseph Alston’s House, in Cheyne Walk. The old house, for so many years occupied by Mr. Pamplin, the nurseryman, on the western entrance in the King’s Road, has recently been pulled down, and two commanding shops erected on the site, by Mr. Leete, the builder, of Little Cadogan Place. They contain thirteen rooms each, built with white bricks and compo-dressings, with enrichments and cornices. On the right-hand side of Cook’s Grounds, from the King’s Road, about 30 superior-looking private dwelling houses are now being built, each of which will contain eight rooms. These are also built with white bricks, and will have what is termed “cant” windows. The road opposite them is intended to be 50 ft. wide, and there will be a good pavement. When this great improvement is finally completed, and carried forward to Cheyne Walk, which no doubt is the intention, this new street will then scarcely be surpassed by Oakley Street. In Trafalgar Square, likewise, there are a number of very superior dwelling-houses now in course of erection, and, when the entire square is finished, there will be an excellent road from Cheyne Walk to the South Kensington Museum.

THE VESTRY HALL.

This building is situated on the south side of the King’s Road, and is nearly opposite Robert Street. The foundation stone was laid on the 12th of December, 1859. The arrangements for the accommodation of the public were under the superintendence of W. W. Pocock, Esq., the architect, and notwithstanding it was a very inclement day, there were at least a thousand persons present.

In a bottle were deposited a suitable inscription on vellum, a list of the parish officers for the year, one copy of each of the three Annual Reports of the Vestry, a copy of the “Metropolis Local Management Act,” with its Amendments, and of the “Nuisances Removal Act,” and one of each of the Coins of the present Reign. The band of the Royal Military Asylum attended, and played several popular airs, which added greatly to enliven the proceedings.

The following particulars are extracted from the “Morning Advertiser,” Tuesday, December 13th, 1859, and which were inserted in the Fourth Annual Report of the Vestry, 1860.

The foundation stone was laid by Viscount Chelsea in due form, in the presence of Robert Hanbury, Esq., and the Hon. G. Byng, the Members for Middlesex, W. Tite, Esq., M.P., the Rev. C. Kingsley, the Rector of the Parish, the Members of the Vestry, and a large number of the influential inhabitants of the parish.

The building is in the Italian style, with stone facings. The length is about 140 ft., and between 60 and 70 feet in breadth. The great hall is 64ft. in length, and 40 ft. wide, and accommodates upwards of 1000 persons. The board room is about 45 ft. by 30.

The time appointed for the ceremonial was two o’clock in the afternoon, and at half-past one o’clock the gentlemen invited to take part in the day’s proceedings assembled in the Vestry-Room of St. Luke’s Church, and proceeded from thence to the site of the proposed building, headed by the juvenile band of the Royal Military Asylum, playing national and other appropriate airs. The procession, on arriving at the spot, was received with loud cheers by a large number of the inhabitants who were admitted within the grounds.

Mr. Tite, M.P., opened the business of the day in an appropriate speech, in the course of which he alluded to the kind gift of the freehold site by Earl Cadogan, the money for the erection of the building having been voted by the Vestry. The new hall, he said, when built, would not only be useful as regarded parochial purposes, but it would be an ornament to that locality. He was not disposed to introduce politics into a matter so purely parochial, but he could not help saying that, in the event of Chelsea obtaining a right to send representatives to Parliament—to which it is fully entitled on account of the number, respectability, and intelligence of its inhabitants—they could meet in their new hall, and there canvass and consider the claims of the candidates who presented themselves for their suffrages.

Mr. Hanbury and Mr. Byng then severally addressed the numerous assemblage in suitable speeches.

Mr. Charles Lahee, the respected Vestry Clerk, then read the following document, which was afterwards deposited in the bottle previously referred to:—“This building, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Right Hon. Lord Viscount Chelsea, on the 12th day of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and fifty nine, is intended for the transaction of the parochial and municipal business of Chelsea, which contains at the present time a population, by estimation, of seventy thousand persons. It is built by the Vestry constituted by an Act for the better Local Management of the Metropolis (18th & 19th Victoria, cap. 120) upon freehold land presented them by the Lord of the Manor, and his heirs, from the designs of Mr. Willmer Pocock, architect, by Thomas Piper and Sons, builders. Contract sum £5630. Lord of the Manor, George, 3rd Earl of Cadogan.” To which was attached the names of the Rector, Churchwardens, Vestrymen, &c., &c.

The Rev. Richard Burgess, of Trinity Church, Sloane Street, then offered an appropriate prayer, after which,

Mr. W. Rabbits, one of the vestrymen, presented a silver trowel to Viscount Chelsea, to be used in laying the first stone, and to be kept by his lordship as a token of the respect of the parishioners for him.

Viscount Chelsea having expressed his acknowledgments for the compliment paid him,

Mr. Pocock, the architect, then placed the bottle containing the documents, &c., in the cavity of the under stone, which was covered with mortar. The other portion of the stone was then let down, and Viscount Chelsea having gone through the usual “masonic” operations in a workmanlike manner, his lordship declared the Vestry Hall to be in due course of erection amidst the loud cheers of all present.

The erection of the entire building was completed in 1860, and, occupying such a central position, it adds materially to the respectability of the King’s Road. It is an attractive structure, and its architectural design reflects great credit on Mr. Pocock. The estimate laid before the Vestry Finance Committee on the 21st of February, 1861, by Mr. Charles Lahee, the Vestry Clerk, of the total probable cost of the Vestry Hall buildings, including the fittings and furniture, was altogether £12,059 16s. 2d.

A portion of the building is occupied by the Chelsea Literary and Scientific Institution, for the use of which a rental is paid. T. L. Bull, Esq., was the original founder, and to his indefatigable efforts, for a considerable time, may be attributed the advantages that have been derived from it. It appears, however, that the receipts of this useful and admirable institution are unfortunately just now insufficient to meet the necessary expenditure, but it is gratifying to record that at a late influential meeting, held at the Vestry Hall, to consider the “present position and future prospects of the Institution,” and at which Lord George Hamilton, M.P., presided, it was unanimously resolved to extricate it from temporary difficulties.

Mr. Charles Lahee, who has been Vestry Clerk for many years, has a private dwelling-house at the Vestry Hall. The offices are on the ground floor, and the large hall is at the rear of the building. The spacious room above the offices, and which fronts the road, is where the vestrymen weekly assemble, adjoining it are committee rooms, &c. The whole interior is well-arranged and admirably adapted for the requirements of the parish, which has now become one of the most populous and important in the metropolis.

In Flood Street, near to the King’s Road, is a small Chapel belonging to the Primitive Methodists.

Methodist New Connexion Chapel.—This Chapel, which is situated in Radnor Street, King’s Road, was originally attached to the Commercial Tavern. After some time had elapsed it was converted into a place for Divine Worship, having undergone material alterations and made a distinct building. The Rev. Clifford Hooper was the Pastor, and the Congregation rapidly increasing they ultimately erected the Congregational Church in Markham Square. When that structure was completed, Radnor Street Chapel was purchased by the Methodist New Connexion Society, and to that body of the Christian church it still belongs. There is a very excellent Sabbath School, and the members and friends have expended, at different times, considerable sums in making it both commodious and comfortable.

The Savings’ Bank is situated on the north side of the King’s Road. It was established in the year 1819. The benefits derived by the labouring classes, and others of limited means, by the establishment of such banks, are now so well known and appreciated that it would be needless to enumerate them. The Chelsea Savings’ Bank is one of the most secure and best conducted in London.

CHELSEA CONGREGATIONAL CHURCH,
MARKHAM SQUARE.

The foundation stone of this Chapel was laid on Tuesday, October 5th, 1858, and the building was opened for public worship on April 3rd, 1860, the Honourable and Rev. Baptist Noel, M.A., preaching at noon, and the Rev. Newman Hall, LL.B., in the evening. The Rev. Clifford Hooper was the first Pastor. He resigned the pastorate on account of failing health on the 3rd of June, 1863, and died on March 6th, 1864. The Rev. R. Brindley, of Bath, then accepted the pastorate, commencing his ministry on November 22nd, 1863, and on October 19th, 1865, was suddenly and unexpectedly called to his rest, in the very prime of life and in the midst of his labours. The Rev. Andrew Mearns, of Great Marlow, was then invited to become Pastor, and commenced his ministry, at Chelsea, on September 16th, 1866, where his pulpit ministrations and pastoral labours have been greatly blessed.

The Chapel stands in a very prominent position, covering a large piece of ground at the north end of Markham Square, forming a very conspicuous and beautiful object from the King’s Road.

The form of the building is slightly cruciform, having transepts projecting about five feet from the body of the Chapel. The prominent feature of the exterior is a tower and spire, rising from the west side of the southern transept to the height of 138 feet.

The proportions are well-conceived, and the effect good. The dimensions in the clear, are, length 85 ft. 2 in.; length, including apse, 93 ft. 6 in.; width 41 ft. 3 in.; width across transept 51 ft. 3 in.; height from floor of chapel to ridge of open roof, 49 ft.; height from floor to roof, on the wall line, 22 ft.; and the height of school rooms 13 ft.

The style of the building is in the second period of the Gothic. The exterior is entirely of stone; the interior, will accommodate on the ground and gallery floors, 1,150 adults, besides an additional gallery in the apse for the organ and choir.

The ground floor is raised about four feet above the footway, and beneath are lofty and spacious schoolrooms for about 850 children, with requisite offices. The building was erected from a design by John Tarring, Esq., of Bucklersbury, and Messrs. Myers, of Lambeth, were the contractors who undertook the erection.

The Sabbath School is well attended, and the labours of the teachers and superintendent very successful. Above 380 children are registered as scholars, and, on Feb. 28, the actual attendance was 256 in the morning and 356 in the afternoon, taught by 33 teachers.

The various institutions and agencies connected with this Church are likewise flourishing under the oversight of the Pastor, who, we trust, may be long spared to a beloved and loving people.

WHITELANDS TRAINING INSTITUTION.

The old house now attached to these extensive premises was for many years a boarding school, conducted by the Misses Babington. Previous to that period it had no doubt been a scholastic establishment for young ladies, as I find that a discourse was delivered here, about 1772, by the Rev. John Jenkins, A.M., on Female Education and Christian Fortitude under Affliction.

In the year 1842 the house and grounds were taken on a long lease by the National Society, and in 1850 a public meeting was held in London to raise funds for the erection of the present buildings.

The Institution provides for the education, maintenance, and training of more than 100 young women, between the ages of 18 and 25, who purpose to become teachers of National Schools; and, secondly, for the daily instruction of children of the neighbourhood, in four schools.

In one of these schools the charge of 10s. per quarter is made. It is attended by children whose parents would not wish to send them to the National Schools.

The vast improvements which are everywhere conspicuous throughout the length of the King’s Road, as regards that portion of it which is within the boundaries of Chelsea, are far more numerous than in any other road in the metropolis. At the eastern and western extremities of the parish, there are Railway Stations, then there are the steamboats, besides these there are the omnibuses traversing the road every quarter of an hour. What a contrast does the King’s Road now present when compared with what it was at the commencement of this century!

I now return to the bank of the Thames, passing through Flood Street, proceeding eastward along Queen’s Road West, (formerly called Paradise Row,) the residence of many of the Nobility and Gentry in the “Olden Times.”

Queen’s Road West.

In the year 1664, Mr. James Hamilton, probably by order of the Lord of the Manor, made a survey of this parish. It was further continued, till the year 1715, by the Rev. Dr. King, the rector, to whose labours this work is much indebted.

From Hamilton’s survey, it appears that the Earl of Radnor resided in Paradise Row, [177] adjoining Robinson’s Lane. He entertained his Majesty King Charles II. most sumptuously on the 4th of September, 1660, at this house. When the above survey was taken, his relict, Lady Radnor, was in possession of the premises. There are in the Parish Register several entries of baptisms and deaths of this family. Lord Radnor died at this house July 17, 1685, and Lady Radnor, his second wife, who survived him, resided at Chelsea till her death in 1714. His son, Francis, by his second wife, who was a gentleman of general learning and good abilities, was buried at Chelsea.

At the north end of George Place, Queen’s Road West, formerly stood an old white house, called “Queen Elizabeth’s Larder,” which was pulled down to erect the present houses.