BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A QUIET JOURNEY ACROSS CHINA TO BURMA

BY

GEORGE ERNEST MORRISON

M.D. Edin., F.R.G.S.

THIRD EDITION
LONDON: HORACE COX
WINDSOR HOUSE, BREAM'S BUILDINGS
E.C.
MDCCCCII


TO

JOHN CHIENE, M.D.,

F.R.C.S.E., F.R.S.E., ETC.,
PROFESSOR OF SURGERY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH,
WHO GAVE ME BACK THE POWER OF LOCOMOTION.
I GRATEFULLY
INSCRIBE THIS VOLUME.


CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. PAGES

Introductory—Mainly about Missionaries and the Cityof Hankow

[1-11]
CHAPTER II.

From Hankow to Wanhsien, with some Account ofChinese Women and the Rapids of the Yangtse

[12-23]
CHAPTER III.

The City of Wanhsien, and the Journey from WanhsienTo Chungking

[24-34]
CHAPTER IV.

The City of Chungking—The Chinese Customs—Thefamous Monsieur Haas, and a few Words onthe Opium Fallacy

[35-49]
CHAPTER V.

The Journey from Chungking to Suifu—Chinese Inns

[50-62]
CHAPTER VI.

The City of Suifu—The China Inland Mission, withsome general Remarks about Missionaries in China

[63-75]
CHAPTER VII.

Suifu to Chaotong, with some Remarks on theProvince of Yunnan—Chinese Porters, PostalArrangements, and Banks

[76-96]
CHAPTER VIII.

The City of Chaotong, with some Remarks on itsPoverty, Infanticide, Selling Female Childreninto Slavery, Tortures, and the Chinese Insensibilityto Pain

[97-106]
CHAPTER IX.

Mainly about Chinese Doctors

[107-114]
CHAPTER X.

The Journey from Chaotong to Tongchuan

[115-124]
CHAPTER XI.

The City of Tongchuan, with some Remarks uponInfanticide

[125-134]
CHAPTER XII.

Tongchuan to Yunnan City

[135-147]
CHAPTER XIII.

At Yunnan City

[148-157]
CHAPTER XIV.

Gold, Banks, and Telegraphs in Yunnan

[158-170]
CHAPTER XV.

The French Mission and the Arsenal in Yunnan City

[171-182]
CHAPTER XVI.

The Journey from Yunnan City to Talifu

[183-201]
CHAPTER XVII.

The City of Tali—Prisons—Poisoning—Plagues andMissions

[202-217]
CHAPTER XVIII.

The Journey from Tali, with some Remarks on theCharacter of the Cantonese, Chinese Emigrants,Cretins, and Wife-beating in China

[218-232]
CHAPTER XIX.

The Mekong and Salween Rivers—How to Travelin China

[233-243]
CHAPTER XX.

The City of Tengyueh—The Celebrated WunthoSawbwa—Shan Soldiers

[244-259]
CHAPTER XXI.

The Shan Town of Santa, and Manyuen, the Sceneof Consul Margary's Murder

[260-269]
CHAPTER XXII.

China as a Fighting Power—The Kachins—And theLast Stage into Bhamo

[270-281]
CHAPTER XXIII.

Bhamo, Mandalay, Rangoon, and Calcutta

[282-291]


ILLUSTRATIONS.

Mostly from Photographs by Mr. C. Jensen of the Imperial Chinese Telegraphs.

The Author in Western China[Frontispiece.]
The Author's Chinese Passportpage [8]
On a Balcony in Western China[14]
The River Yangtse at Tung-lo-hsia[34]
Memorial Archway at the Fort of Fu-to-kuan[34]
Chungking, from the opposite Bank of the Yangtse[38]
A Temple Theatre in Chungking[44]
On the Main Road To Suifu[52]
Cultivation in Terraces[58]
Scene in Szechuen[58]
Opium-smoking[72]
A Temple in Szechuen[84]
Laowatan[84]
The Opium-smoker of Romance[93]
Pagoda by the Wayside, Western China[118]
The Big East Gate of Yunnan City[146]
View in Yunnan City[156]
Soldiers on the Wall of Yunnan City[168]
The Pagoda of Yunnan City, 250 feet high[174]
The Viceroy of Two Provinces[180]
The Author's Chinese Name[182]
The Giant of Yunnan[184]
The "Eagle Nest Barrier," on the Road to Talifu[192]
Snow-clad Mountains behind Talifu[204]
Memorial in a Temple near Talifu[220]
The Descent to the River Mekong[232]
Inside View of a Suspension Bridge[236]
The River Salween[240]
The River Shweli and its Suspension Bridge[242]
The Suburb beyond the South Gate of Tengyueh[250]
Chinese Map of Chungking[292]
Rough Sketch-map of China and Burma[at end].