TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF BRAZIL.

THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.

E Fry del. Reeve Lith.

TRAVELS
IN THE
INTERIOR OF BRAZIL,
PRINCIPALLY
THROUGH THE NORTHERN PROVINCES,
AND
THE GOLD AND DIAMOND DISTRICTS,
DURING THE YEARS 1836-1841.

BY
GEORGE GARDNER, M.D., F.L.S.,
SUPERINTENDENT OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS OF CEYLON.

“A populous solitude of bees and birds,

And fairy-formed and many-colour’d things,

… the gush of springs,

And fall of lofty fountains, and the bend

Of stirring branches, and the bud which brings

The swiftest thought of beauty, here extend,

Mingling, and made by Love unto one mighty end.”

Childe Harold.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON:
REEVE, BENHAM, AND REEVE,
KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND.
1849.

REEVE, BENHAM, AND REEVE,
PRINTERS AND PUBLISHERS OF SCIENTIFIC WORKS,
KING WILLIAM STREET, STRAND.

TO
SIR WILLIAM JACKSON HOOKER,
K.H., D.C.L., LL.D., F.R.S.A., AND L.S.,
VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE LINNÆAN SOCIETY, HONORARY MEMBER OF THE ROYAL IRISH ACADEMY, MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL ACADEMY CÆSAR. LEOPOLD. NATURAL. CURIOSORUM, ETC., ETC.,
AND
Director of the Royal Gardens of Kew,
TO WHOM THE SCIENCE OF BOTANY IS SO MUCH INDEBTED, ALIKE FOR HIS LIBERAL PATRONAGE, AND THE CONTRIBUTIONS MADE TO IT IN THE NUMEROUS AND VALUABLE WORKS WHICH HAVE ISSUED FROM HIS PEN,
THE FOLLOWING WORK,
CONTAINING THE NARRATIVE OF TRAVELS, WHICH, BUT FOR HIS KINDNESS AND ENCOURAGEMENT, COULD NEVER HAVE BEEN UNDERTAKEN,
IS INSCRIBED
WITH FEELINGS OF PROFOUND RESPECT AND ESTEEM,
BY HIS GRATEFUL FRIEND AND PUPIL,
GEORGE GARDNER.

PREFACE.

The present volume is not given to the public, because the Author supposes it presents a better account of certain parts of the immense Empire of Brazil, than is to be found in the works of other travellers, but because it contains a description of a large portion of that interesting country, of which no account has yet been presented to the world. It has been his object to give as faithful a picture as possible of the physical aspect and natural productions of the country, together with cursory remarks on the character, habits, and condition of the different races, whether indigenous or otherwise, of which the population of those parts he visited is now composed. It is seldom that he has trusted to information received from others on those points; and he hopes that this fact will be considered a sufficient reason for his not entering into desultory details more frequently than he has done.

Ample opportunities were offered for studying the objects he had in view, of which he never ceased to avail himself. Besides visiting many places along the coast his journeys in the interior were numerous; and, although he never ventured, like Waterton—whose veracity is not to be doubted—to ride on the bare back of an alligator, or engage in single combat with a boa constrictor, yet he had his full share of adventure, particularly during his last journey, which extended, north to south, from near the equator to the twenty-third degree of south latitude; and east to west, from the coast to the tributaries of the Amazon. The privations which the traveller experiences in these uninhabited, and often desert countries, can scarcely be appreciated by those who have never ventured into them, where he is exposed at times to a burning sun, at others to torrents of rain, such as are only to be witnessed within the tropics, separated for years from all civilized society, sleeping for months together in the open air, in all seasons, surrounded by beasts of prey and hordes of more savage Indians, often obliged to carry a supply of water on horseback over the desert tracks, and not unfrequently passing two or three days without tasting solid food, not even a monkey coming in the way to satisfy the cravings of hunger. Notwithstanding these, however, and one serious attack of illness, his enthusiasm carried him through all difficulties, and they have in some measure been repaid by the pleasure which such wanderings always afford to the lover of nature, and by the number of new species which he has been enabled to add to the already long list of organized beings.

The Author has only further to add, that the notes from which the Narrative has been drawn up, were, for the most part, written during those hours, which, under other circumstances, should have been devoted to sleep; and that the Narrative itself was principally compiled from them, during a voyage from England to the Island of Ceylon.

Kandy, Ceylon, January 1st, 1846.

The manuscript of Mr. Gardner’s ‘Travels in Brazil’ having been transmitted from Ceylon, and printed during his official residence in that island, the Publishers feel desirous of expressing the great obligation they are under to John Miers, Esq., in the absence of the Author, for his valuable assistance in correcting the technical, botanical, and Brazilian proper names, whilst passing through the press; they also desire to record their sense of the kind services rendered by Robert Heward, Esq., co-operating with Mr. Miers in reading the proofs.

London, October 1st, 1846.

CONTENTS

Page.
[CHAPTER I.]
RIO DE JANEIRO.
Motives for visiting Brazil—Voyage from England—Arrival at Rio de Janeiro—Description of the City—Its Environs—Geological Character of its Neighbourhood—Its Climate—Its Inhabitants—State of Slavery in Brazil—General good treatment of Slaves—Different Mixed Races—Excursion to the Mountains surrounding the Capital—Its Botanical Garden—Museum of Natural History[1]
[CHAPTER II.]
JOURNEY TO AND RESIDENCE IN THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.
Principal Summer Resort of the English Residents—Journey from Piedade to Magé and Frechal—Ascent of the Mountains—Description of Virgin Forests—Mr. March’s Plantation in the Serra—Treatment of his Slaves—Case of One bitten by a venomous Snake—Limb amputated by the Author—Mode of Treatment in such cases among the Natives—Charms—Tapir-Hunting in the Mountains—Beasts, Birds, and Reptiles found there—Visit to a Brazilian Fazendeiro—To Constantia—Ascent of the loftiest Peaks—Vegetable Productions in those elevated regions—Pleasant Sojourn on the Estate[28]
[CHAPTER III.]
BAHIA AND PERNAMBUCO.
Departure from Rio de Janeiro—Arrival at Bahia—Description of that City—Voyage to Pernambuco—Jangadas—Description of the City and Environs of Pernambuco—The Jesuits—The Peasantry—Town of Olinda—Its Colleges and Botanic Garden—Visit to the Village of Monteiro—The German Colony of Catucá—The Island of Itamaricá—Pilar—Salt Works of Jaguaripe—Prevalent Diseases in the Island—Its Fisheries—Peculiar Mode of Capture[55]
[CHAPTER IV.]
ALAGOAS AND THE RIO SAN FRANCISCO.
The Author’s Motive for this Excursion—Voyage to the Southward—Description of the Coast and Observations on the great Restinga—Reaches Barra de S. Antonio Grande—Arrives at Maceio—Description of the Town and surrounding Country—Resolves to visit the Rio San Francisco—Embarks in a Jangada and coasts to the Southward—Batel—Lands at Peba—Journey thence to Piassabassú on the Rio San Francisco—Ascends the River to Penêdo—The Town described—Productions of the District—Its Population—Voyage up the River—Mode of Navigation—Arrives at Propihà—Vegetation of the Country—Description of a Market Fair—Dress of the People—Voyage continued to Traipú—Passes the Ilha dos Prazeres—Barra de Panêma—Abundance of Fish of the Salmon Tribe—Village of Lagoa Funda—Island of S. Pedro—Its Indian Population described—Continues the Voyage—Fearful Storm—Return to S. Pedro, serious Illness and detention there—Scarcity of Food—Renounces in consequence all intention of proceeding further—Returns to Penêdo—Scheme for Navigating the Rio San Francisco—Reason why it will never succeed—Arrives again at Maceio—Visits Alagoas—That City described—Leaves Maceio—Coasting Voyage—Singular Mode of catching Fish—Return to Pernambuco[76]
[CHAPTER V.]
CEARA. PERNAMBUCO TO CRATO.
The Author leaves Pernambuco in a Coasting Vessel—Description of the Voyage—Touches at Cape San Roque—Arrives at Aracaty—Seaport of Province of Ceará—Town described—Its Trade—Whole Province subject to great droughts—Commencement of Journey into the Interior—Passes Villa de San Bernardo—Arid nature of the Country—Catingas—Arrives at Icó—Town described—Journey continued—Villa da Lavra de Mangabeira—Gold Washings abandoned—Country begins to Improve—Reaches the Villa do Crato—Town described—Low state of morals among the Inhabitants—Sugar Plantations—Mode of Manufacture—Coarse kind of Sugar formed into Cakes, called Rapadura, in which state it is used throughout the Province—State of Cultivation in the Neighbourhood—Productions of the Country—Serra de Araripe—Different kinds of Timber—Wild Fruits—Wandering tribes of Gypsies frequent—Great religious Festival—Climate—Diseases[113]
[CHAPTER VI.]
CEARA CONTINUED.
Reasons for delaying journey into the Interior—Visits, meanwhile, different places in the vicinity of Crato—Crosses the Serra de Araripe—Reaches Cajazeira—Arrives at Barra do Jardim—Description of that Town and Neighbourhood—Meets with an interesting deposit of Fossil fishes—Geological character of the Country—Detects a very extensive range of Chalk formation—First discovery of such beds in South America—The accompanying formation described—This range of Mountains encircles the vast Plain comprising the Provinces of Piauhy and Maranham—Arrives at Maçapé—Great Religious Festival on Christmas Day—Meets with an accident—Visits also Novo Mundo—Discovers other deposits of Fossil Fishes near these places—Vegetable productions along the Taboleira—Different Tribes of uncivilized Indians in that Neighbourhood—Curious account of the fanatical sect of the Sebastianistas—Their extravagant belief—Commit human sacrifices—Their destruction and dispersion—Returns to Crato[150]
[CHAPTER VII.]
CRATO TO PIAUHY.
Preparations for the Journey—Leaves Crato—Passes Guaribas—Reaches Brejo grande—Discovers more Fossil Fishes—Passes Olho d’Agoa do Inferno—Arrives at Poço de Cavallo—Crauatá—Cachoeira—Marmeleira—Rosario—Os defuntos—Lagoa—Varzea da Vaca—Angicas—Crosses the boundary line of the Province of Piauhy—Arrives at San Gonsalvo—Campos—Lagoa Comprida—Difficulties of the road—Reaches Corumatá—Canabrava—Arrives at Boa Esperança, a large Estate owned by an excellent Clergyman—Is now in the midst of the great Cattle Districts—Nature of the Country described—Marked into two kinds, Mimoso and Agreste—Passes Santa Anna das Mercês—San Antonio—Cachimbinho—Vegetation of the surrounding Country—Reaches Retiro—Buquerão—Canavieira—Crosses the River Canindé, arrives at Oeiras, the Capital of the Province of Piauhy[169]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
OEIRAS TO PARNAGUÁ.
The Author’s reception by the President of Piauhy—City of Oeiras described—Its Population—Its Trade with the Coast—Great want of River Navigation—Its chief exports are hides and cattle—Its Climate—Diseases—Character of the Barão de Parnahiba—His great power in the Province—History of this remarkable Man—And of the Civil War on declaration of the Independence of Brazil—Resources of the Province—National Cattle Farms—Course of the Author’s journey quite changed by an alarming Revolt—This insurrection described—He determines on travelling southwards through Goyaz and Minas Geräes—Leaves Oeiras—Description of the Country—Chapadas—Passes through many Cattle Farms—Curious mode of catching Cattle—Passes Pombas—Algodoes—Golfes—Retiro Alegre—Genipapo—Canavieira—Urusuhy—Prazeres—Description of a Piauhy Family—Reaches Flores—Rapoza—Arrives at Parnaguá—Universal Hospitality of the Natives—Salt found in the Neighbourhood[193]
[CHAPTER IX.]
PARNAGUÁ TO NATIVIDADE.
Leaves Parnaguá—Arrives at Saco do Tanque—Carrapatos a great pest to Travellers and Cattle—Vegetation of the Country—Crosses the Serras da Batalha and de Mato Grosso, the boundary of the Province of Piauhy—Descends into the District of Rio Preto—Account of the Cherente Indians—Arrives at Santa Rosa—Crosses the River Preto—Reaches the desolate region of Os Geräes—Passes over the elevated table-land Chapada da Mangabeira—Arrives at the Indian Mission of Duro—Description of these Indians—Reaches Cachoeira—Crosses the Serra do Duro—Fords the River Manoel Alves—Arrives at Almas—Galheiro Morto—Morhinos—Abundance of Wild Honey—Description of several kinds of Bees—Reaches Nossa Senhora d’Amparo—Mato Virgem—Goître not uncommon—Passes Sociedade—Arraial da Chapada—And arrives at Natividade[223]
[CHAPTER X.]
NATIVIDADE TO ARRAYAS.
The Town of Natividade described—Its Population—Dress and Manners of the People—Its Climate—Diseases—Goître extremely prevalent—Excursion to the neighbouring lofty Mountain Range—Its Geology and Vegetation—Visits the Arraial da Chapada—Leaves Natividade—Passes San Bento, and arrives at the Arraial de Conceição—Its Population—Very subject to Goître—Probable cause of this Complaint—Reaches Barra and crosses the Rio de Palma—Arrives at Santa Brida—Stays at Sapê—Account of the Animal and Vegetable Productions of the Neighbourhood—Reaches the Villa de Arrayas—The Town described—Geological Features of the surrounding Country—Its Climate and Productions—Alarm of the Inhabitants—Muster of the National Guard—Preparations for departure[256]
[CHAPTER XI.]
ARRAYAS TO SAN ROMÃO.
Departure from Arrayas—Reasons for preferring the route along the Serra Geral—Passes Gamelleira—Bonita—Reaches San Domingo—San João—San Bernardo—Curious Fact respecting the Rio San Bernardo—Passes Boa Vista—Country consists of very elevated table-lands—Its Natural Productions—Arrives at Capella da Posse—San Pedro—San Antonio—Dôres—Riachão—Animals greatly tormented by large Bats—Habits of these Vampires—Reaches San Vidal—Flight of Locusts—Passes Nossa Senhora d’Abbadia—Campinhas—Pasquada—San Francisco—Crosses River Carynhenha and enters the province of Minas Geräes—Country described—Habits of the great Ant-eater—Passes Capão de Casca—Descent of the Serra das Araras—Reaches San Josè—Rio Claro—Boquerão—Santa Maria—Espigão—Taboca—San Miguel—Crosses River Urucuya—Passes Riachão—Arrives at San Romão—Town described—Its Population—Habits of the People—Rio de San Francisco—Description of the different varieties of the Salmon tribe found in it[286]
[CHAPTER XII.]
SAN ROMÃO TO THE DIAMOND DISTRICT.
Leaves San Romão—Passes Guaribas—Passagem—Geräes Velhas—Espigão—Caisára—Cabeceira—Arrives at the Villa de Formigas—Town described—Account of the impostor Douville—Country around rich in Botanical products—Passes Viados—Arrives at the Arraial de Bomfim—Reaches San Elo—Sitio—Comes to a Gold Working called Lavrinha—Crosses the River Inhacica—Reaches As Vargems—Registo do Rio Inhahy—Bassoras on the River Jiquitinhonha—Examines a Diamond Mine—Formation in which the Diamond is found—Mode of working it—Arrives at the Arraial de Mendanha—Town described—Ascends the Serra de Mendanha—Reaches Duas Pontes—Arrives at the Cidade Diamantina, formerly the Arraial de Tijuco, the Capital of the Diamond District—Town situated on side of hill—Description of its Population—Their mode of Dress—Its cold Temperature—Productions of its Neighbourhood—Mining for Diamonds, formerly a privileged Monopoly, now open to all—Character of Miners—Extent of Diamond Mines—Privilege of Slaves there employed—Climate very healthy—Women very handsome—Complaints incident to its Climate—Loyalty shown by its Inhabitants—Fatality among Horses[320]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
CIDADE DIAMANTINA TO OURO PRETO.
Leaves the Cidade Diamantina—Reaches As Borbas—Passes the Arraial do Milho—Tres Barras—Arrives at the Cidade do Serro, formerly Villa do Principe—The Town described—Passes Tapanhuacanga—Retiro de Padre Bento—N.S. de Conceição—Description of an Iron Smelting Work at Girão—Vast abundance of Iron Ores in this District—Reaches Escadinha—Morro de Gaspar Soares and two other Iron Smelting Works and Forges—Ponte Alta—Itambé—Passes Onça—Ponte de Machado, where frost was seen—And arrives at Cocaes—Visits the large Establishment of the Cocaes English Mining Company—The Author’s unkind reception by the Director of that Establishment—Reaches S. João do Morro Grande, part of the Mining Establishment of the English Gongo Soco Company—Hospitable reception—And visit to the Gold Mines—Its Workings described—Geological structure of the Mines and the surrounding country—Leaves Gongo Soco and passes Morro Velho—Rapoza—And reaches the Establishment of another English Mining Company at Morro Velho—The Author’s delight on receiving letters after two years’ absence—His kind reception and abode there—Village of Congonhas de Sabará described—Attached to the Gold Mines of Morro Velho—Account of those Mines—Mode of working and extracting Gold from the Ore—Visits the City of Sabará—Mining Establishment of Cuiabá—Serra de Piedade—And Serra del Curral del Rey—Leaves Morro Velho—Reaches the Villa de Caëté—Passes S. José de Morro Grande—Barra—Brumado—Serra de Caraça—Catas altas—Inficionado—Bento Rodriguez—Camargos—And reaches San Caetano—Visits the City of Mariano—Passes the Serra de Itacolumi—Arraial de Passagem—And arrives at the City of Ouro Preto, formerly Villa Rica—City described—Its Population—College and Botanic Garden[360]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
OURO PRETO TO RIO DE JANEIRO, AND SECOND VISIT
TO THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS.
Leaves Ouro Preto—Arrives at San Caetano—Passes Arraial de Pinheiro—Piranga—Filippe Alvez—San Caetano—Pozo Alegre—Sadly incommoded by a thunder-storm—Reaches Arraial das Mercês Chapeo d’Uva—Entre os Morros—Crosses Rio Parahybuna—And enters the Province of Rio de Janeiro—Passes Paiol—Reaches Villa de Parahyba—Crosses the River Parahyba—Mode of Ferrying described—Passes Padre Correa—Corrego Seco—Reaches summit Pass of the Serra d’Estrella—Magnificent view of the Metropolitan City, its Harbour, and surrounding Scenery—Arrives at Porto d’Estrella—Embarks for the City and finally arrives at Rio de Janeiro—All the Collections brought from the Interior are arranged and shipped to England—The Author resolves again to visit the Organ Mountains—His departure for the Serra—Adds largely to his Collections—Ascends the loftiest peaks of the Mountains—Their elevation above the sea about 7,500 feet—Departs on an excursion to the Interior—Passes the Serra do Capim—Monte Caffé—Santa Eliza—Sapucaya—Porto d’Anta—Crosses Rio Parahyba—Passes Barro do Louriçal—San José—Porto da Cunha—Recrosses the Rio Parahyba—Reaches Cantagallo—Visits Novo Friburgo—Description of these two Swiss Colonies—Pleasant sojourn in the Organ Mountains[391]
[CHAPTER XV.]
MARANHAM, VOYAGE TO ENGLAND, CONCLUSION.
Leaves the Organ Mountains and returns to Rio de Janeiro—Embarks for England with large collections of living and dried Plants—Touches at Maranham—City described—Its Population—Public Buildings and Trade—Geology of its Neighbourhood—Visits Alcantarà—Sails for England—Gulf Weed—Its great extent and origin—Flying Fishes—Observations on their mode of flight—Remarkable Phosphorescence at Sea—Description of the singular Animal that causes this Phenomenon—Its curious nests—Scintillations at Sea caused by a very minute kind of Shrimp—Arrives in England—Concluding Remarks[418]

Transcriber’s Note: The map is clickable for a larger version if you’re using a device that supports this.

MAP OF BRAZIL

Reeve, Benham & Reeve, lith.