CHAPTER 12. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. MOUNTAIN RANGES.

The most remarkable geographical feature in North-Western Australia is a high range of mountains running north-north-east and south-south-west, named by me Stephen's Range after James Stephen, Esquire, Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies. From this primary range several branches are thrown off: 1. One between Roe's River on the north and Prince Regent's River on the south. 2. Macdonald's Range that throws off streams to Prince Regent's River on the north and to Glenelg River on the south. 3. Whateley's Range which gives forth streams to Glenelg River on the north, and to the low country behind Collier's Bay and Dampier's Land on the south.

These branch ranges as well as the principal one are all composed of ancient sandstone, deposited in nearly horizontal strata, or of basaltic rocks which are only visible in certain places, and are most fully developed in that part of Stephen's Range which lies behind Collier's Bay, and in the low ground near Glenelg River.

With the extent of Stephen's Range I am unacquainted; but I have no doubt that the high land whence the Fitzroy River takes its rise is merely an under-feature again thrown off from it, and which I propose to call Wickham's Range after Captain Wickham, R.N., the discoverer of the Fitzroy.

We may form some idea of the limits of Stephen's Range in a north and east direction from the following passage extracted from Captain King's survey of these coasts:*

Lacrosse Island is situated in the entrance of a deep opening trending to the south-south-west towards some steep, rugged hills. The character of the country is here entirely changed. Irregular ranges of detached rocky hills of sandstone formation, very slightly clothed with small shrubs and rising abruptly from extensive plains of low, level land, seem to have superseded the low wooded coasts that almost uninterruptedly prevails between this and Cape Wessel, a distance of more than six hundred miles!

(*Footnote. King's Australia volume 1 page 291.)


It appears therefore that this main range contains within it the sources of Roe's River, Prince Regent's and Glenelg Rivers, most probably the Fitzroy, and those that run into Cambridge Gulf and perhaps others that have their embouchures between this last and Admiralty Gulf.

From an accident having occurred to the only barometer we could carry with us I am unable to state the elevation of the highest land we reached above the level of the sea; but the appearance of the country on the coast does not give the impression of any very elevated ground existing near it. This however is owing to the great height of the shore cliffs and the gradual rise of the land towards the interior. The following observations, made with the barometer before it was broken, will show however that the altitude of the country at no great distance from the coast is considerable.

MACDONALD'S RANGE.

Our first encampment was on the banks of a small river at a spot 2,640 feet from the sea. This river ran through a deep and narrow valley, descending with a nearly regular slope from a tableland of sandstone, in which it took its rise about seven miles inland. At this encampment the height of the bed of the river above the level of the sea was 188.76 feet, as found by the mean of several very accordant observations, which, at the same average slope, gives an elevation of about 377 feet for the height of a spot on its banks distant only one mile from the sea; and if we conceive the average increase of elevation to the sandstone tableland to be only 200 feet in every mile (and I believe it to have been more) we shall have 1400 feet for the elevation of the tableland which formed one of the highest parts of Macdonald's Range.

ELEVATION OF HILLS.

After passing across this range we again descended rapidly into the low country, the face of which is much broken by conical hills composed of basalt. The heights of some of these hills above their base, which had a considerable elevation above the sea level, were in three instances as follows:

February 28.

The measured height of a hill above its base was 331 feet.

March 4.

Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to be 222 feet.

March 8.

Measured the altitude of a hill above its base and found it to be 229.5 feet.

None of these hills had apparently near so great an elevation as the sandstone range of which they were under-features. At this period our barometer was unfortunately broken. We now proceeded up the banks of the Glenelg and arrived at many hills and conical peaks, apparently much higher than those I had measured; yet on afterwards passing the river and attaining the summit of the opposite sandstone range, we looked down upon them as hills of far inferior elevation to those on which we stood. From this circumstance, and from the very perceptible change of temperature we experienced, I should think the altitude of the farthest point of Stephen's Range which we reached must have been 2,500 or 3,000 feet above the sea.

CHARACTER OF THE RIVERS.

The rivers in North-western Australia much resemble in character those of the south-eastern parts of the continent. They rise at no very great distance from the sea. Near their sources they are mountain torrents, but in the lowlands they become generally streams with slow currents, winding through fertile and extensive valleys or plains which are liable to sudden and terrific inundations, caused, I conceive, by the rain which falls in that part of the mountains where the rivers take their rise; for at one period, when we had our encampment on the bank of the small stream near the sea at Hanover Bay, I was myself distant about fourteen miles in the interior in the direction of its source, where we had heavy rain; and on my return I found that the party at the station had been surprised by a sudden rising of the water for which there was no apparent cause as there had been no rain where they were.

The Glenelg River, in like manner, is subject to sweeping inundations, rising sometimes to the height of fourteen to fifteen feet above its usual level, as was evinced by the weeds and other substances we saw in the trees on its banks.

To show that these are characteristics of the Fitzroy River I shall quote the authority of Captain Wickham from a letter addressed to me just before our meeting at Hanover Bay:

It (the Fitzroy) appears to be very similar to the rivers on the south-east side of New Holland, subject to dreadful inundations, caused by heavy floods in the interior, and in no way connected with the rainy season on the coast. Our visit to it being in February and March, immediately after the rainy season on the coast, without our seeing any indication of a recent flooding, although there were large trunks of trees and quantities of grass and weeds lying on the bank and suspended from the branches of trees from ten to twelve feet above the level of the river. The bed is entirely of sand.


INUNDATIONS.

It will be clearly seen how nearly this corresponds with what we observed about the same season on the banks of the Glenelg. I have therefore little doubt that the Fitzroy takes its origin from the same mountain chain, and that the inundations described by Captain Wickham originate in the causes which I have here assigned.

To demonstrate more clearly the similarity of character of these rivers with those of New South Wales I shall quote two passages from the British Colonies of Mr. Montgomery Martin, regarding the Hawkesbury and Hunter Rivers of that colony:

The Hawkesbury, which is a continuation of the Nepean River, after the junction of the latter with a considerable stream, called the Grose, issues from a remarkable cleft in the Blue Mountains in the vicinity of the beautiful town of Richmond, about forty miles from Sydney. Along the base of these mountains the Hawkesbury flows in a northerly direction, fed by numerous tributary mountain torrents, descending from narrow gorges, which, after heavy rains, cause the Hawkesbury to rise and overflow its banks as it approaches the sea. In one instance it rose near the town of Windsor ninety-seven feet above its ordinary level. Volume 4 page 257.

Again he says, page 258:

Hunter's River, about seventy miles to the northward of Port Jackson, disembogues into the sea at the harbour of Newcastle.

There are three branches to the Hunter, called the upper, the lower, and the middle: the two former are navigable for boats for about 120 miles, and the latter for about 200 miles; but the branches are all subject to sudden and terrific inundations owing to the rapid descent of torrents from the Blue Mountains.


MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.

In concluding my remarks on the rivers of the north-west I should state that Mr. Stokes, the surveyor of the Beagle, after a careful examination of the coast did not succeed in finding the mouth of the Glenelg; and he imagines that it has several openings, consisting of large mangrove creeks, which fall into Stokes Bay; whilst it is my impression that it will be found to run out somewhere between Camden Sound and Collier's Bay, and that by some accidental circumstance its mouth was missed. That it joins the sea in a considerable body I should infer from a shoal of porpoises having been seen high up the river, and from the rise and fall of tide, which was twenty feet at the direct distance of thirty miles from the coast.

VALLEYS.

The valleys in this country are of two kinds: those which are almost ravines, bordered on each side by nearly inaccessible cliffs; and valleys of great width, bordered by fertile plains, often extensive, and which occur where the basaltic rocks are developed; although ravines of this formation are also of frequent occurrence in the mountainous parts.

CHARACTER OF THE VALLEYS. SOIL.

The soil found in the valleys of the former kind is extremely rich, but they are all subject to very heavy inundations. As an example of this kind of valley I may cite the one in which we first encamped. Its mean width was only 147 feet, and the rocky precipitous cliffs at half a mile from the sea rose above their base 138 feet. These deep valleys undoubtedly afford water at all seasons of the year.

The sandstone formation is intersected in all directions by valleys of this kind, which are seldom more than from two to three miles apart, while the top of the range between them is a tableland, divided by lateral valleys and gently rising towards the interior. Seawards they all terminate in saltwater creeks, having the same narrow, rocky, and precipitous character as they present themselves.

These tablelands afford good timber, particularly pine. Sheep thrive upon the food there produced, but we found goats did not answer so well.

The richest land in this part of the country is found in the valleys of the second class. The streams flowing through these valleys have generally almost imperceptible currents and often form wide reaches. The land upon their margins is thinly wooded; and I have often seen exposed fine vegetable mould of ten or twelve feet in thickness, through which these streams had worn their way. Good examples of this kind of valley are those through which run the Fitzroy and Glenelg rivers.

The northern banks of Prince Regent's River I conceive to offer no inducement whatever for the formation of a settlement, the whole of the country in that direction, as far as I have seen, consisting entirely of sandstone ridges. These ridges are continually intersected by valleys, or rather ravines of great fertility, but they are so narrow, and the good land contained in them is so very limited in extent, that from the first moment of the establishment of a colony here the individuals composing it must necessarily be scattered over a large space of country. They would thus be separated from one another by considerable intervals, which separation would not only render them more liable to disagreements with the natives, but would for many other reasons be highly detrimental to the interests of an infant colony.

The same objection holds good with regard to the south bank of this river, as far as the longitude of 125 degrees 3 minutes east, and even after passing this point the land immediately bordering the river is of the same sterile character; however a creek which trends nearly south runs up from thence into one of the most fertile countries I have ever seen.

HARBOURS.

The coastline to the south of Prince Regent's River is indented, as shown upon Captain King's chart, by numerous deep bays, many of which afford excellent anchorage; indeed I believe that there is no other part of the world in which an example occurs of three such fine harbours as Port George the Fourth, Hanover Bay, and Camden Sound, lying so close to one another.

These harbours alone render this a point of considerable consequence to Great Britain; but when viewed in connexion with the fine tract of country lying behind them its importance is very materially increased.

COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES.

Should this part of Australia be found eligible for colonization its commercial importance is well worthy of consideration.

PRODUCTIONS SUITED FOR CULTIVATION. COTTON TRADE.

The cultivated productions for the growth of which the country and climate seem best adapted are cotton, sugar, indigo, and rice.

A species of cotton plant grows wild in the greatest abundance, and if a colony was established and the proper cotton-plant introduced the following advantages would be obtained:

Great Britain would possess in Northern Australia a colony standing in the same relation to her manufacturies for cotton that her colonies in the south do to her wool-market.

This colony would also form a sort of entrepot to which the manufactured cotton would again be exported for the purpose of sale in the islands of the Indian Archipelago or its vicinity, and other parts where we have at present no trade, and where printed cottons now are, and from the nature of these countries must constantly be, in great demand.

Thus a fresh supply of cotton for our markets would be obtained, which, coming from an English colony, would give employment to British vessels alone, and the industry of our manufacturers would be called into operation by an entirely new market for cotton goods being thrown open to them, in which the demand for these articles is far greater than the supply could be for many years.

ARTICLES OF EXPORT.

The natural productions that are at present found in North-west Australia and might be available for exportation consist chiefly of timber, gum, lichens, and mimosa bark; all of which are abundant, and might be collected with a trifling degree of labour.

There are many varieties of useful timber. Among others, pine, fit for the purposes either of building or making spars for vessels, is abundant and good, and could be readily and cheaply exported if they were cut in the vicinity of the streams and floated down to the sea in the rainy season, whereby all land carriage would be avoided.

I sent to England specimens of five different gums in order that they might be examined. These consist of an elastic gum, closely resembling Indian rubber, gum tragacynth, another gum yielded by a sort of capparis and which I believe to be hitherto unknown, and two kinds of gum resin.

The mosses are of various kinds, many of which would afford useful dyes; and these, together with the gums, would probably be found valuable articles of export; for the collecting of them is a species of labour in which the native tribes would more willingly engage than any other I am acquainted with.

Immediately off North-West Cape is good whaling ground. The schooner employed on the expedition fell in with two vessels--the Favourite, Captain White, and the Diana, Captain Hamott, whalers belonging to Messrs. Bennett & Co., of London, and then fishing between North-West Cape and the position usually assigned to the Tryal Rocks. Both these vessels had been very successful.

COMMERCIAL PROSPECTS. TRADE WITH THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.

With regard to the commerce that might be carried on by Northern Australia with the islands of the Indian Archipelago I have made many enquiries, and have gained from the most authentic sources some important facts.

The points upon which I first endeavoured to obtain information were:

1. What desire was evinced by the inhabitants of the islands of the Indian Archipelago and the China Sea to become possessed of articles of British manufacture; and,

2. If they were able to pay a fair price, either in money, or by giving goods for which there would be a demand in European markets, in exchange for such articles of British manufacture as might be introduced amongst them.

Upon both of these points I received very satisfactory information. In some instances most respectable merchants detailed to me the result of speculations of this kind in which they had been engaged; in others mercantile letters were placed in my hands, fully corroborating what had been told me; but the information I thus obtained bore reference also to the following points:

1. The degree of labour necessarily required to transport articles of British manufacture to such a distant mart as the one here contemplated for their consumption.

2. The length of time during which wages must be paid to and food provided for the individuals engaged in this labour.

3. The duties to which the articles will become liable in the various ports; and,

4. The danger of loss or injury that may be incurred in their transport thither.

With regard to the two first of the above heads it appears that the profit that may be realized by the trader is so considerable as not only to cover the expenses that they would necessarily entail upon him; but after these expenses have been defrayed the residue of profit that would remain in his hands would be so large as to render this commerce one of the most lucrative in which capital could be embarked.

METHOD OF BARTER.

This will be readily conceived when it is considered that the mode of barter is that which is most usual amongst the inhabitants, and that the trader puts his own valuation upon the articles he exchanges with them. One of the oldest and most respectable merchants at the Cape made a voyage through these islands for the purpose of procuring gold dust, and he detailed to me the mode in which he conducted the traffic. A Spanish doubloon was placed in one of the scales, and gold dust in the other; when the quantity of gold dust was equal in weight to the doubloon, he gave a doubloon's worth of goods they required, at his own valuation; the profit realized was large.

One great drawback to this commerce at present is the necessity of coasting from place to place in order to obtain a full cargo. The same inconvenience was felt along the coasts of Africa and Madagascar until some enterprising London and Liverpool mercantile houses established the system of receiving vessels, which remained stationary at one point whilst smaller vessels collected cargoes for them. Now a colony in some northern part of Australia would in the same manner totally obviate this inconvenience by affording a place in which cargoes could be collected from small vessels, and to which the British manufactures to be exchanged could be brought. Kupang in Timor at the present moment is used for this purpose by the Dutch.

DUTIES LEVIED AT THE ISLANDS.

With regard to the third point I find that at the native ports, in general, no duty is required; but where there is a Rajah it is politic to make him a present in goods. The duties levied by the Portuguese at Dili in the month of June 1838 was 10 per cent. With regard to the duties levied by the Dutch on British merchant vessels I know but little; but the duty demanded at Kupang and Roti on each horse exported, or each musket imported, was six rupees, being almost equal to their original value. Arms or ammunition are no longer contraband either in the Dutch or Portuguese possessions.

In considering the danger of loss or injury that may be incurred in the transport of merchandise to these parts it is unnecessary to compute the ordinary dangers to which the merchant is more or less liable in all quarters of the world; but two distinct drawbacks to commercial enterprise at present exist in these countries, which are peculiar to them, these are the prevalence of piracy, and the constant occurrence of political commotions in the native states. The establishment of a settlement on the north or north-west coast of New Holland would have however the effect of diminishing both these evils in so great a degree that a very few years would probably suffice for their complete annihilation.

SUCCESS OF AMERICAN VESSELS. CAUSES OF IT.

Notwithstanding the drawbacks occasioned to commercial enterprise by the circumstances above detailed, there at this moment exists a very considerable trade in the Indian Archipelago, which is, with the exception of the few vessels that sometimes bring ponies to the Isle of France and the British settlements, almost wholly in the hands of the Americans. Indeed no fact which I have met with has so much surprised me as the extraordinary diffusion of the American commerce, and the great spirit of enterprise exhibited by them. For in many places where the British merchants can find no commerce apparently worth their attention the Americans carry on a lucrative and prosperous trade, and in half-civilized countries, where the largest profits are always realized, the Americans are so eminently successful that the British merchant cannot attempt to compete with them.

This appears to arise from the following circumstance. The masters of the American vessels engaged in this kind of trade are, in many instances, whole, and in all other instances, part owners of the vessel and cargo; whereas masters of English vessels have frequently little or no interest in the vessel and cargo, and are moreover frequently tied down by directions issued from the firm for which they act.

The difference between these two cases is very great; the American can turn every circumstance that occurs to account: he can instantly enter into any speculation that holds out a prospect of success; and can act with rapidity and decision on his own responsibility. The English master, on the contrary, has usually a certain prescribed line of duty to fulfil, from which he cannot vary.

Hence it is that we often see the American whalers with arms, ammunition, and other articles for barter on board. They whale off Madagascar, and, whenever an opportunity offers, carry on a lucrative trade with the natives. From thence their course is directed to St. Paul's and Amsterdam, and afterwards along the coast of New Holland; and when it again becomes necessary for them to refresh they touch at some island in the Archipelago, and the scene of barter is once more renewed. Their cargo eventually consists of sperm oil, gum copal and other gums, ebony, tortoiseshell, gold dust, seal-skins, shells, and curiosities; yet they originally started upon a whaling voyage.

INSTANCES.

During the years 1824 and 1825, when the port of Mombas upon the East Coast of Africa was temporarily ceded to the British Government, Lieutenant Emery, R.N., who was stationed there as commander, was witness to a curious instance of this nature.

Whilst this port was in the possession of the English but one British merchant vessel arrived there, yet three American vessels entered the harbour. The master of the English vessel was not a part owner; the American masters were all part owners and carried on a very lucrative trade, shipping a large quantity of ivory, whereas the English master was placed in a very unpleasant position, for, owing to the orders he had received from his owners (Messrs Tobin and Co. of Liverpool) he had not been able to ship a cargo suited to the market of Mombas, and if Lieutenant Emery had not kindly cashed a bill for him the speculation would have been a total failure.

The cargo these American vessels brought to Mombas was principally muskets and ammunition, which they bartered with the natives for ivory; and this is the cargo they always ship for trade with the inhabitants of the Indian Archipelago, and, as muskets and ammunition are there of great value, the profit they realize is enormous.

As an instance of the kind of persons these American masters often are I may state the following circumstance.

Captain Wickham, R.N., was at Valparaiso in South America in the year 1836, where he met a purser in the American navy who had realized about 3000 pounds sterling; this person here quitted the American service and laid out his capital in the purchase of a small vessel in which, having embarked a cargo suited to the trade of the country, he started for the coast of California; in a short period he returned to Valparaiso, having in this single trip more than doubled his capital; this Captain Wickham also stated was by no means a rare instance.

TRADING PRODUCTS OF THE SEVERAL ISLANDS.

Having bestowed some attention on the state of trade in the Indian Archipelago, and collected considerable information from various individuals who had been engaged in it, I shall here subjoin a summary of such of the principal facts as I think may be depended on.

TRADE WITH TIMOR.

In all the ports of the natives, as well as those under the Dutch and Portuguese authorities, the produce is much the same. It consists chiefly of goats, pigs, poultry, maize, paddy, yams, plantains, fruit, sandalwood, beeswax, and tortoiseshell in small quantities.

At Dili duties of 10 per cent are exacted and produce is rather dear. Sandalwood is to be had at from 2 to 4 dollars the picul of 125 catties; wax is generally from 30 to 35 dollars (Spanish) the picul of 110 catties.

The ports of Timor furnish a little gold dust at times. Good water and firewood are to be had at most of them; that of Dili is a good and safe one.

Gold dust, I understand, is also procurable at Sandalwood Island and New Hebrides.

For vessels the good season on the coast is from about the 10th of April to the 15th of October.

Cootababa affords horses and all the produce of the other places. No duties are levied here, the place not being subject to the Portuguese. It is a small port and should be entered with caution.

The best ports of Timor for wax are Dili, Cootababa, Ocussi, Sitranny, Nilow, and Manatronto. It is gathered in June, cleaned in July, and sold principally in that and the two following months; but a vessel should be active, as enterprising people go along the coast and buy it up for the Kupang merchants, who send it to Batavia where it is said to sell for 120 rupees the picul; the price at Cootababa, being lately about 80 rupees at 2 1/2 to the Spanish dollar.

Sandalwood can be had from March to October, the usual trading season; but from March to May is the best time as vessels from Kupang and Macao are on the coast early, buying it up in time to return to Macao and China in the favourable monsoon. The best ports for sandalwood are, Cootababa, Ocussi, and Sitranny, but it is to be had most abundantly at Ata-poopa.

ARTICLES IN REQUEST.

Spanish dollars, muskets, and gunpowder are the essentials for procuring wax or sandalwood, but if you wish to have a greater assortment, small quantities may be added of any articles from the following list.

Doubloons (Spanish).
Sovereigns (English).
blue cloth of Pondicherry of good quality.
ditto English (if cheap) of dark colour for officers.
white shirting or good calico for men and women.
handkerchiefs of colours and sorts.
white cotton stockings.
men and women's gown pieces of sorts and colours.
silk stockings, plain and ribbed.
shoes for men and women.
brandy, rum, gin, lead and flints.
quart-glass decanters, cruet stands, dress swords, wine glasses and rummers, knives and forks, razors, needles, scissors, earrings, bracelets, shawls of sorts, mock jewellery, sugar, soap, biscuits.

Bally and Surabaya are good places for rice, but more especially the former, as it is to be had cheap, especially if bartered for opium. The rice can be carried to Macao where a good price can always be obtained for it.

Puloo, Batao, and Ocussi on the coast of Timor are good places for obtaining tortoiseshell at all times, as well as the islands in front of Timor, from October to December. The price is about 800 Spanish dollars per picul in cash; but in exchange for blue or white cloth, powder, arms, flint, etc., it would be obtained for much less.

Roti and Bally are both good places for ponies in exchange for cash or goods.

The following is an account of our purchase and barter at the island of Roti in January 1838:

10 horses for 10 muskets (old).
4 horses for 2 fowling-pieces (old).
9 horses for 27 1/2 rupees each.
3 mares for 22 rupees each.
8 sheep for an old regimental breastplate.
14 goats for a pair of pistols (old).
The duty on each horse was six rupees.

In Mr. Earle's translation of the account of the voyage of the Dutch colonial brig Dourga, which, it is stated, left Amboyna May 26th 1825 and visited the islands of Kissa, Lettee, Mon, Damma, Lakor, and Luan,* it is said, in speaking of them:

The clothing of those who cannot obtain European or Indian cotton cloth is pieces of prepared bark fastened round their waists.

The productions of these islands are sandalwood, beeswax, pearls, tortoiseshell, trepang, edible birds' nests, Indian corn, rice, vegetables, with abundance of livestock. As the use of money is scarcely known these are only to be obtained by barter in exchange for cotton cloths, brass wire, iron chopping knives, and coarse cutlery. The first article, cotton cloth, is most in demand and M. Kolff suggests that a European merchant might carry on an advantageous trade here. The value of an ox is from 8 shillings and 4 pence to 10 shillings; of a sheep from 3 shillings and 4 pence to 5 shillings. Beeswax can be obtained in abundance at Roma at the rate of 2 pounds 7 shillings per hundredweight. The trade with the islands is carried on solely by natives, those of Macassar, Amboyna, and the Arru Islands being the chief purchasers; and Chinese brigs from Java occasionally visit Kissa.

(*Footnote. The Serwatty Islands to the east of Timor see the map of the Asiatic Archipelago by Mr. John Arrowsmith.)


Geby, an island in the Gellola passage, has a fine harbour; a large quantity of tortoiseshell can be obtained there for trade with the natives. The Asia's Islands, lying a short distance to the northward, are not inhabited but abound in turtle.

TRADE WITH THE ISLANDS OF THE ASIATIC ARCHIPELAGO.

The following points of information concerning the Indian Archipelago were furnished by Captain Brodie, formerly in command of a Dutch vessel of 326 tons:

In case of a necessity for repairing or coppering a vessel Surabaya is the best place as it can be done well and cheap. Wood for ship-building is abundant; and good carpenters can be had at the rate of 20 copper doits per diem, that is to say, three men for a rupee a day.

The Malaccas are under Dutch government, of which Ternate forms a part. It is said to be a good place to dispose of odds and ends,* and for getting a little shell. It is also a good place for refreshments.

Banda is not so good a place to go to, if another is at hand, as it is for a merchant vessel a strictly prohibited port. In fact the Spice islands, or Malaccas, can be entered for water and refreshments.

At Timor (Kupang) you can get sandalwood, wax, and a little shell, but dear.

At the north-east end of Celebes there are two other places, Monado and Keema, where the best gormootip or black coir rope can be obtained at about 7 rupees per picul. These two places are under the Dutch government. Some little business might be done there: stock in particular is cheap.

At the island of Ceram the inhabitants are said to be favourable to the English, but Dutch vessels of war cruise often about there, and are very jealous.

Bouton, a small island with a Rajah under Dutch protection, situate at the south-east end of Celebes, and off the bay of Boni, is a place where prows assemble and get vast quantities of shells and beche-de-mer. Nearly all these prows proceed with their cargoes to Singapore for a Chinese market.

Fine cattle are to be had at about four dollars a head at the town of Bally, in the Straits of Allass, between Lombok and Sumbawa.

New Guinea produces good beeswax, pearls, tortoise-shell, trepang, birds-of-paradise, etc.

(*Footnote. Another authority says: Tidore near Ternate is a good friendly place. Articles for trade are looking-glasses of a better kind, knives and forks, beads, watches, printed calicos, blue Pondicherry cloth, Salimpores, arms, powder, flints, lead or shot, razors, scissors, handkerchiefs; in return for which you may get pearls, pearl-shell, tortoiseshell, birds-of-paradise, nutmegs, etc.)


FIELD FOR ENTERPRISE.

I shall conclude this subject with some remarks of Mr. John Sullivan. R.N., a gentleman who possesses a vast fund of information regarding the Indian Archipelago, and to whom I am indebted for many details regarding its commerce. He says:

To suppose that the almost countless islands in the ocean before-named (the Pacific) do not give many valuable articles, and particularly tortoiseshell and pearl, would be no less an error than to doubt the existence of the islands altogether.

No, the case is otherwise; and it is needless to say that in the quarter alluded to there are already a few American merchants, who have discovered by their China, whaling, and sealing voyages many sources of wealth, and who are at this moment reaping rich rewards for their toil, while 999 out of every thousand of the European world know nothing at all about it. Nevertheless there is yet a vast field open to the speculator, which must ever promise ample recompense for his confidence and outlay.