ILLUSTRATIONS

Climbing the Matterhorn by the Zmutt ridge[Frontispiece]
FACING
PAGE
Rock-climbing[14]
Crossing a steep snow slope[14]
Scrambling in the range of the Tödi[18]
Climbing the Capo al Dente[24]
The southern summit of Capo Tafonato[28]
The Cinque Fratri from below the Col de Foggiale[32]
Paglia Orba from the Cinque Fratri[36]
Morning mists[44]
Climbing down a steep ridge[48]
The short cut—roping down[48]
The north face of the Jungfrau[52]
The icefall of the Guggi Glacier[56]
“We basked on the roof of the Guggi hut”[62]
Cutting steps over the upper lip of a bergschrund[76]
Evening storm[80]
Morning calm[80]
The Eismeer icefall[86]
Sounding a snowbridge[86]
Cornices on the Punta Margherita[98]
A cornice on the Rôchefort ridge[98]
The Tödi[108]
The Tödi from the Bifertenlücke[116]
The summit of the Tödi[116]
The Bifertenstock from the Bündner Tödi[128]
“... a faithful record of Forster’s blood-bespattered condition”[136]
The east face of Monte Rosa[142]
The Frisallücke[148]
The Grenz Gipfel[150]
The Val Sesia from Monte Rosa[150]
A crevasse on the Zwillings Glacier[154]
Castor[154]
The Swiss ridge of the Matterhorn from the Matterhorn hut[166]
The Swiss summit of the Matterhorn from the Italian summit[170]
The summit of Mont Blanc in 1911[170]
Descending the Italian ridge[174]
The Matterhorn from the Dent d’Hérens[178]
The Matterhorn from the Stockje[184]
The Matterhorn at sunset[184]
“... that tremendous overhang called the ‘Nose of Zmutt’”[186]
An ice avalanche[196]
The north face of the Dent d’Hérens, showing route followed[210]
Back at the Schönbühl hut after the climb[210]
Mont Blanc from the Dôme hut[218]
Descending Mont Maudit[224]
The Peuteret ridge from the Col du Géant[224]
Mont Blanc from the Val Veni[228]
The Innominata from the Col du Fresnay[236]
The Aiguilles Blanche and Noire de Peuteret[244]
“A traverse of about thirty yards across the steep western flank of the Peuteret ridge....”[244]
Chamonix Aiguilles and Mont Blanc[250]
Descending the Grépon[250]
A stiff chimney[250]
A sérac[254]
“Two ladders tied together and laid across the chasm”[254]
The summit of the Grépon[258]
Good, sound rock[264]
The bergschrund below the Dru[270]
Where next?[272]
“La Pendule”[274]
“... A rather steep ice slope—the Mur de la Côte”[274]
On the summit of the little Dru[278]
On the first day out from Phari Dzong[290]
Shekar Dzong[290]
Mount Everest and the Base Camp[294]
Camp II.[294]
“A suitable slope was soon found”[302]
Amid the séracs of the East Rongbuk Glacier[304]
Crossing a trough on the East Rongbuk Glacier[304]
Mount Everest from Camp III.[306]
The North Peak and the North Col Camp[314]
The North Peak from an altitude of nearly 24,500 feet on Mount Everest[316]
Mount Everest from the North Col, showing route[330]
Monsoon clouds[330]
On the return journey to the Base Camp[332]
In a mountain hut[336]
The Aiguille du Géant[338]
The Sella Pass[338]