KILPECK CASTLE.
THE parish of Kilpeck, in the county of Hereford, occupies a tract of rolling broken ground which intervenes between the Mynde, Orcop, and Garway ridge of hills and the river Worm, a stream which receives the drainage of a considerable valley, and finally falls into the Monnow, near Kentchurch. The railway from Abergavenny towards Hereford passes up this valley, which affords an excellent example both of the fertility and the picturesque beauty of the old red sandstone country of Herefordshire.
The castle, church, and the site of the long-destroyed priory lie near together about the village of Kilpeck, two miles north of the ridge, and a short mile south of the church and railway station of St. Devereux.
The ground falls rapidly towards the north, and is traversed by deep dingles, each with its contained streamlet. The hedgerows and steeper banks are covered with wood, and the grassy knolls and ridges subside into broad level meadows of unrivalled verdure, amidst which the plough is but little known.
Kilpeck Castle, as now seen, is composed almost entirely of earthworks. It consists of a mound and circumscribing ditch, beyond which, on the north, is a triangular platform, on the south an enclosure of a horseshoe figure, and beyond this again a southern platform much more extensive, but also somewhat triangular in outline. On the very edge, and to the east of these enclosures, stand the ancient Norman church and a farmhouse, parts of which are of some antiquity; on the west, about 200 yards distant from the castle, the ground falls rapidly towards a deep dingle, across the lower part of which has been thrown a strong bank of earth, while remains of other banks are seen higher up. By these means it is evident that there was formed a chain of long and deep lakes, perhaps at two or even three levels, which must have rendered any approach from the west, or Welsh quarter, exceedingly difficult and hazardous.
The mound is wholly artificial. It is conical and truncated, and of oval plan. Its summit measures, north and south, about 25 yards, and east and west about 40 yards, and its height is from 20 feet to 40 feet, according to the depth of its ditch, which is greatest on the northern side. The slopes are steep, the red earth having little disposition to slip.
The summit was crowned by a shell keep placed about 3 feet within the edge of the slope, and therefore about 23 yards north and south, by 38 yards east and west. It was polygonal in plan, with faces from 14 feet to 15 feet long. Of this shell there remain but two fragments, one on the north and the other on the west side, about 20 yards apart. These show the wall to have been polygonal without, and circular, or nearly so, within, also within vertical, but on the outside battering from 7 feet thick at the base up to 4 feet at 6 feet high, above which it was continued at 4 feet. The north fragment is about 40 feet long, with a sine of about 2 feet, and about 18 feet high; probably it was, with the parapet, about 25 feet. It contains a round-backed fireplace, 3 feet broad by 2 feet deep, which gathers in above into a cylindrical shaft of 12 inches diameter. On each side is a water-drain, as from sinks, passing through the wall. The other, or western fragment, is 30 feet long and about 14 feet high. This also has a fireplace, similar to the last, but 5 feet wide and 3 feet deep; on the north side of it is a water-drain. From the south end of this there remains a fragment of a cross wall, 3 feet thick, which belonged to an interior building; it is of the age of the outer wall. This outer wall seems to have been blown outward a little by a mine sprung from within. The summit of the mound is slightly convex, from the accumulation of rubbish, which the fireplaces show to be about 4 feet deep. It is said that a deep well was discovered here, but no trace of it is now seen. These walls are the only remains of masonry visible in the whole castle. From their general aspect and that of the fireplaces they seem to be Early English. It is clear that the shell contained buildings against the wall, which, from the water-drains, may have been kitchens.
The mound is surrounded by a deep ditch, which on the north is succeeded by the north platform, on the north-east, east, and south, by the horseshoe platform or outer ward, and on the west by a narrow bank, from the base of which the natural slope falls rapidly.
The outer ward is a platform of a horseshoe or lunated shape, varying from 90 yards to 180 yards broad, and covering full half the mound. Its concave edge forms the counterscarp of the inner ditch. Its convexity is bounded by a ditch from 10 feet to 30 feet deep, which on the east borders the churchyard, and on the south is succeeded by the south platform, the general level of which is 10 feet to 12 feet below the summit of the mound. The outer edge of this area has been raised by a bank, which along the south side and at the west end rises 10 feet to 20 feet, having been no doubt thrown up from the exterior ditch. The surface is scarred as by the removal of foundations, but not a trace of actual masonry is visible, and even where the bank has been cut through no stones are seen.
There remains the south platform. This is nearly at the level of the outer ward, though below that of its elevated edge. The area is considerable, probably above four acres. It is divided from the outer ward by the ditch common to both, and about 30 feet broad. To the west and to the east it has a ditch, but to the south a scarp of about 12 feet, the ground beyond being flat and at a lower level. The present entrance to this platform, now under tillage, is by a hollow way to the east side near the north end, which may be old.
The main entrance to the castle, that is, to the outer ward, was by a gateway at the south point, marked by a deep hollow way cut in the bank, and flanked by earth heaps, which may conceal the foundation of small towers. This entrance is approached from the east by a road along the ditch below the outer ward and the south platform.
The way from the outer ward into the keep is not opposite the outer entrance, but more to the east; a slender causeway crosses the ditch, and a path ascends the mound. Probably this is all modern, and here was a sloping bridge, rendering the ascent of the mound less steep. At the south-west corner the ditch of the mound runs out at one point on the hill side, so that from hence a way may have lain along the ditch as far as the mound bridge.
The inference suggested by the present earthworks is something to the following effect:—Originally advantage was taken of a natural knoll, of an irregular figure, but about 300 yards north and south by 125 yards east and west, which was surrounded by a single ditch, or, where the ground allowed, by a scarp only. It may be that here, as partially at Malvern, and in other examples, this long enclosure was subdivided by two cross cuts into three parts, of which the central formed the citadel. This would probably be the work of the British.
Then it would seem that a later people, the English, took possession, and threw up a mound at one corner of the citadel, isolating it by its proper circular ditch, the principal dwelling being on the mound, and the horseshoe remainder below containing the base court for the dependents, while the north and southern portions would serve for protected enclosures for cattle.
When the Normans took possession they seem to have built a shell keep upon the mound, and to have employed the base court below as an outer ward, probably surrounding the whole with a stone wall, now removed, and replacing the English stockade. This would constitute the castle proper, to which the north and south platforms would be appendages, no doubt stockaded for cattle.
The history of Kilpeck commences with Domesday, which records, “Hæ villæ vel terræ subscriptæ sitæ sunt in fine Arcenefelde. Will’us filius Normanni tenet Chipcete. Cadiand tenuit tempore Regis Edwardi.”
The church is decidedly older than the masonry of the keep, and it may therefore be that the early Norman lords contented themselves with a residence and defences of timber, and did not build for a century or so after their occupation, when the shell keep was constructed. It is not probable that this was preceded by any earlier work in masonry, as Norman buildings were substantial and durable.
The church has been the subject of a “monograph.” The priory, of which not a trace remains, stood in a field south-east of the castle and village.
Chipcete in Irchenfield is the present Kilpeck, where William Fitz Norman sat in the seat of Cadiand, the dispossessed Englishman. The lands paid no geld or military service, which in that border district is remarkable. William was a large Herefordshire landowner. In 1134, 25 Henry I., Hugh, son of William Fitz Norman, gave to St. Peter’s, Gloucester, the church of St. David at Kilpeck, and the chapel of our Lady of or within the castle. Of the chapel no more is said, but the church is included in the confirmation charter by Stephen to Gloucester in 1138, and in many later confirmations and charters of Inspeximus.
According to Dugdale, a priory was founded at Kilpeck in 1134, and dedicated to St. David, by Henry de Kilpec. The founder more probably was Hugh Fitz Norman, who certainly endowed it. It was a cell of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Peter at Gloucester, and subsisted until its suppression in 1422–48, during the Episcopate of Thomas Spofford of Hereford. The priors were summoned to take part in the elections of the Gloucester abbots.
Hugh was succeeded by Henry, called “De Kilpec,” who had to pay a fine of 100 marks to King Stephen for a trespass on the royal forest of the Haywood. Henry is also mentioned in the Pipe roll of Richard I. as in arrear 13 marks in 1189 for dues to the king from the forest of Trivel.
John de Kilpec, son of Henry, purchased the barony of Purbeck or Pulverbach, Salop, of the Crown, in 1193 for £100. At the commencement of John’s reign he seems to have held in his bailiwick the forests of Herefordshire, probably as sheriff of that county, for which he rendered his accounts in the third of John. He also paid two marks scutage for his lands in Salop. He died 1204, and Julian, his widow, paid 60 marks to King John to marry whom she pleased. In the following year she had dower of Rokeslegh and La Teme, according to Madox.
By Julian John left Hugh de Kilpeck, who was a ward to William de Cantelupe, a great border baron. At this time the king visited Kilpeck occasionally, being there 1211, 11th March, in his way from Hereford to Abergavenny, no doubt at both places as Cantelupe’s guest. Also in 1213, 27th and 28th November, he was here between Hereford and St. Briavels, and finally 18th and 19th December, 1214, while going from Monmouth to Hereford.
Hugh de Kilpeck, when of age, inherited the keepership of the royal forests in Herefordshire, and in 1248 he held Little Taynton, in Gloucestershire, by the serjeantry of keeping Haywood forest, also an hereditary charge. The forests of Hay, Kilpeck, and Acornbury seem, from the patent rolls, to have been in his hands 3 Henry III. In 1231, 16 Henry III., Hugh de Kilpeck and William Fitz Warine were two of the eight lords employed to negotiate a truce with Llewelyn. This seems positive; but Dugdale says he died about 1207. There is an inquisition upon him 28 Henry III., 1243–4; but it appears from the fine rolls that he died before this. He married Egidia, who married afterwards, says Dugdale, William Fitz Warine. John was the third and last Baron Kilpeck. He left two daughters, co-heirs, Isabella and Joan. Joan, the younger, aged seventeen at her father’s death, was the first wife of Philip de Marmion. She held half the barony of Kilpeck, and left three daughters, co-heirs. Philip, who was champion of England and a great supporter of Henry III., left by a second wife a fourth daughter. Each had a quarter of the barony of Marmion, and the elder three had each a third of that of Kilpeck. The Frevilles of Tamworth sprang from Mazera, the second child, and the Ludlows and Dymokes, champions, from Joan, the fourth.
Isabella, the elder co-heir, seems to have held the castle of Kilpeck in her share. She married, 28 Henry III., William Waleran. Her seal, lately found at Ewshot, near Crondall, is engraved in the “Top. and Geneal.,” i., p. 28, where is an excellent account of her family. Isabella left Robert, William, and Alice.
Robert Waleran held Kilpeck. He was sheriff of Gloucestershire 30–35 Henry III. He fought for Henry at Evesham, and was governor of the castles of Cardigan and Caermarthen, and a Baron. In 1262 he composed a dispute between the Bishop and Chapter and the citizens of Hereford relating to the assize of bread. He died s.p. 1 Edward I., 1273, leaving apparently Matilda, his widow, no doubt his second wife, who had dower in Kilpeck manor.
William, brother of Hugh, died before him, leaving Robert, who succeeded to Kilpeck, but seems to have died 2 Edward II., either childless, or leaving a son who did not inherit Kilpeck in consequence of his great uncle’s entail; for it appears that by deed in 1269 Robert Waleran gave to Alan de Plunkenet, his sister’s son, the reversion of Kilpeck castle and of the park of Treville and Coytmore, the forestership of the Hay, and the manor of Hampton. Alan regranted to Robert for life, and on Robert’s death the lands reverted to Alan, who did homage. By what tenure Robert, the nephew and last baron, held Kilpeck, does not appear.
Alice Waleran, sister of the first Robert, married Auchew de la Bere. Their son Alan bore the name of Plukenet or Plugenet, and became lord of Kilpeck castle and manor, and was summoned to Parliament 23 Edward I. He died 27 Edward I., 1299. He was buried at Dore. He was a great agriculturist, and reclaimed the tract called from him “Alan’s Moor.” In his time, 13 Edward I., William Butler held a carucate of land in Kilpeck and the manor and court there; also, 20 Edward I., Philip de Marmion of Scrivelsby held a fee in Kilpeck. Several fiefs seem to have been held of the castle; 2 Edward III., Alexander de Freville so held one-sixth of a fee.
Alan Plugenet, son of Alan, succeeded. He was distinguished in the Scottish wars, and was also summoned to Parliament. He obtained a weekly market and annual fair for Kilpeck, and died s.p. about 1311, leaving his sister Joan his heir.
Joan Plugenet, called Joan de Bohun de Kilpeck, held the barony. She married Edward de Bohun, but died s.p. 20 Edward II., or 1 Edward III., 1327.
Her heir was Richard, son of Richard, and grandson of Sir Richard de la Bere. He died 19 Edward III., leaving Thomas, his son and heir, aged 30, 27 Edward III.; but Edward de Bohun, who survived his wife, and probably was tenant of Kilpeck by the courtesy, had licence from Edward III. to alienate Kilpeck, Treville, and the bailiwick of the Haywood to James Butler, first Earl of Ormond.
Meantime the elder family continued to hold their shares. Thomas de Useflete, 5 Edward III., probably a trustee, enfeoffed Richard de la Bere, of Munestoke, in Kilpeck, which, 2 Edward III., had been held by Nicholas de Useflete. 17 Edward III., Baldwin de Frevill held Kilpeck manor; and finally, 18 Richard II., Kinardus de la Bere held the manor and hundred of Kilpeck for the chantry of St. Mary of Madley.
The Butlers, however, seem to have been substantially the owners. 12 Edward III., James, first Earl of Ormond, held the manor and extent by the tenure of keeping the forest of Hay, and 13 Edward III. Eleanor, his widow, held the castle and manor.
As holders of the castle or manor, or both, appear—37 Edward III., Sir Thomas Moigne; 6 Richard II., James, Earl of Ormond, and, 13 Richard II., Elizabeth, his widow. 20 Richard II., Sir Richard Talbot and Ankareta his wife held the castle and manor as one fee of James, Earl of Ormond, within the land of Irchenfield. The Butlers, however, held the castle until the attainder of the fifth earl, a Lancastrian, who was beheaded after Towton in 1467.
In the fifteenth year of Edward IV., the King granted Kilpeck in tail special to the male heirs of Sir W. Herbert, Lord Herbert (Earl of Pembroke), for one knight’s fee, and, 6 Edward IV., this grant was extended in tail general, failing heirs male of the body. After the earl’s death, in 1469, Edward restored Kilpeck to the Butlers in the person of John, sixth Earl of Ormond, and it descended to his elder daughter and co-heir, whose son, Sir George St. Leger, held it in 1545.
After this it was sold, and came into the possession of the Pye family, of whom Sir Walter held the castle and park. He was a Royalist, and on the fall of Charles I. the Parliament first garrisoned the castle, and in 1645 dismantled it. The Pyes followed James II. into exile, and one of them bore the titular honour of Baron Kilpeck. Probably the materials of the castle were valuable, for their removal, with the trifling exceptions mentioned, has been complete, and yet the castle must have been a considerable place.