CHAPTER III.
His Excellency the Ambassador arrives at Tauris, a royal city of Persia, where, not meeting Ussuncassan, he presents himself to his son. Leaving Tauris, he travels many days through Persia, and arrives at length at the city of Spaan, where he meets the Shah.
On the 22nd, we began to ascend a high mountain, the summit of which we had nearly reached at night, when we were obliged to rest, without water. We rode on again early the next morning, and when we had descended the mountain we were in the country of Ussuncassan; that is to say, we had entered Armenia. In the evening we arrived at a castle garrisoned by Turks belonging to Ussuncassan, called Lores, situated in a kind of plain, below which, however, passes a very deep river. On the other side there is a mountain, and, in front of the river, an Armenian village, where we were certainly well received and where we lodged until the 25th, partly for the purpose of resting ourselves, and partly in order to obtain a guide. The Armenian whom I had brought from Cafà, who said he was a subject of Ussuncassan, was found to be a great rogue, and I was told by these Armenians, that I had been very lucky in escaping from his hands. I therefore kept back a horse, which I had given to him, and dismissed him, and took, as my guide as far as Tauris, an Armenian priest, who proved very faithful.
On the 26th, we five, together with the priest, left Lores and crossed a mountain, and in the evening came to a plain surrounded by mountains, and reached a Turkish village, where we were very well received, and we slept in the open air.
On the 27th, we started before daybreak to pass another mountain, on the descent of which, we were told, there was a village of Turks, which it would be dangerous for us to pass in the day time. We were fortunate enough to pass it at a time, when, I believe, we were not seen. We then entered a very fine country and made every effort to increase the length of our stages, taking little rest except at night, and sleeping in the open air. We thus travelled through this country until the 28th, when we reached the mountain of Noah, which is very high and covered with snow, from the summit to the base, throughout the year. It is said that many persons have attempted to reach the top. Some have never returned, and those who have returned, say that it does not appear to them that a way up will ever be found. Travelling until the 30th through a flat country, with the exception of a few hills of no importance, we came to a castle belonging to free Armenian Franks, who call themselves Chiagri, where we remained till the 31st to take a little rest, as we had provisions of bread, poultry, and wine.
On the 1st of August, 1474, we were obliged to take another guide for Tauris, and we started at vespers.
On the 2nd, we arrived at another tolerably good Armenian village, situated on the side of a mountain, where we had to cross a river in a strange kind of boat used there. It is said that on the banks of this river, but much more to the east, the Soldan Busech came to give battle to Ussuncassan, and that while Ussuncassan was on one side and the Tartar on the other, the Tartars became so weakened by disease produced by scarcity of provisions that Ussuncassan routed them, and captured the Soldan Busech, whom he caused to be beheaded. We crossed this river, on the left bank of which are situated eleven Armenian villages near to each other, having their bishop and being all subject to the Pope. There is not a finer nor a more fertile country than this in all Persia.
On the 3rd, we came to a small town called Marerichi, where we rested for the night.
On the 4th, we started early and travelled through the plains; the weather was excessively hot, and we could not find good water anywhere.
I must observe that, from the time we left Loreo, while travelling through the places I have mentioned, we met a great many Turcomans, with their families, who were changing their quarters, in search of fresh pasture: it being their custom to remain encamped where the pasturage is abundant, until it is all consumed; after which they go in search of fresh. We also passed some of their encampments. These men are an accursed race and arrant thieves, and certainly caused us great fear. By making known to them, however, that I was going to their sovereign, we managed by the help of God, to pass on.
On this day, about the hour of vespers, we entered the city of Tauris, situated in a plain and surrounded by dismal-looking earthen walls. There are near here several red mountains (monti rossi), which are said to be the Tauri mountains. When we entered this city we found it in great commotion, and it was with much difficulty that I reached a caravanserai, where we lodged. Passing among some Turks I heard them say, “These are the dogs who come to create a schism in the Mahometan religion; we ought to cut them to pieces.” Having dismounted at the caravanserai, the Azamo, who certainly appeared to be a good sort of person, provided us with a couple of rooms. His first words were to express astonishment at our safe arrival, which he appeared to think was a thing scarcely credible, as he gave us to understand, what I myself had observed, that the streets were all barricaded. On my wishing to know the reason, he said that Gurlumameth, the valiant son of Ussuncassan, had gone to war with his father and had seized one of the chief towns of Persia called Siras, which he had given up to the Sultan Chali and to his mother-in-law. In consequence of this Ussuncassan had raised an army and was marching towards Siras to expel him. There was a mountain chief also of the name of Zagarli in league with Gurlumameth and commanding above three thousand horsemen, who made inroads and ravaged the country as far as Tauris; and it was from fear of him that the streets were barricaded. He also told me that his Subassi, who had gone out to meet this Zagarli, had been routed and despoiled of everything, and was very thankful to return to Tauris. On my asking him why all the people of the city did not sally forth, he replied that they were not fighting men, but gave obedience to any chief who had possession of the city. I tried all means to leave Tauris and go in quest of the Shah, but could not find a man to accompany me, nor could I obtain any favour of the Subassi. I was, therefore, obliged to remain in the caravanserai, the master of which recommended me to keep in concealment. I was, however, sometimes obliged to go out to buy provisions, or to send my interpreter or a certain Astustin of Pavia who had accompanied me from Cafà, as he had some knowledge of the language. They both suffered much abuse and were told that we ought to be cut to pieces. After a few days there arrived a son of Ussuncassan named Massubei, accompanied by a thousand horsemen, to take the government of Tauris, on account of the fear caused by Zagarli, to whom I went, and with difficulty obtained an audience. I was obliged to give him a piece of camlet, and when I had saluted him, I said that I was going to the Shah, his father, and begged him to let me have a good escort. He scarcely answered me and appeared not to care; so I returned to my lodging. Things then began to get worse; for, when Massubei wanted to obtain money from the people in order to raise an army, they refused to give him any, and closed all the shops. I was, therefore, obliged to leave the caravanserai and go to an Armenian church, where I obtained a small space for lodging for ourselves and our horses, and I could not let any of my people go out. One may imagine our state of mind, in constant dread of ill-usage; but our Lord God, who had taken compassion on us hitherto, in so many perils, was again pleased to save us.
On the 5th of September, 1474, while still in Tauris, there arrived, on a mission from our Illustrious Signory to the Shah Ussuncassan, Bartholomeo Liompardo, who had visited me in Cafà, accompanied by his nephew Brancalion. Having come by way of Trabisonda he arrived a month after me. I now resolved to send the above-mentioned Agustino, by way of Aleppo, to Venice with my letters, to inform the Illustrious Signory of everything that had taken place, and he arrived at his destination in safety, after many perils. I staid in Tauris until the 22nd of September. I cannot say much about Tauris, as I remained continually in concealment. It is a large city, and much amber is met with in it. I do not think it is very populous. It abounds in all kinds of provisions, but everything is dear. It contains many bazaars. A great quantity of silk passes through in caravans, bound for Aleppo, and there are many light articles of silk from the manufactures of Jesdi, and a great deal of fustian and merchandise of almost every kind. Of jewels I heard no mention. As my good fortune would have it, the Cadi Lascher,—one of the most important personages about Ussuncassan, who had been on an embassy to the Soldan for the purpose of concluding a peace, without, however, succeeding,—came to Tauris on his way back to his sovereign. As soon as I knew this, I sought an interview with him, made him a present, and begged that he would allow me to travel in his company, as I was going to the Shah on important business. He granted my request in the most gracious and courteous manner, saying that he gladly accepted my company and trusted in God to conduct me in safety to his sovereign. It appeared to me to be a proof of the grace of God; for which I tendered many thanks. The Cadi had two renegade Slavonian slaves with him, who formed a close friendship with my servants, and made them offers of assistance. They promised me also that when their master was going to leave they would let me know, which they did, and I made them a present, which was profitable to me.
On the 22nd, as I have said, we left Tauris with the Cadi Lascher. A caravan consisting of a number of Azami, going our way, kept in our company for protection. As we travelled we found the country generally level, with the exception of a few hills, but very arid, as there was not a tree of any kind, except near some rivers. We passed, however, a few villages of no importance. Before midday we rested in the open air, and did the same at night. We procured provisions as we required them at the villages as we went along. Travelling in this way, we arrived, on the 28th, at Soltania, which, from its appearance, I should judge to be a good town. It has a large walled castle, which I wished to see. It contains a mosque, which has the appearance of being very ancient. It had three bronze gates higher than those of St. Mark in Venice, worked with knobs, made in damask work with silver, which are certainly most beautiful, and must, I should think, have cost a large sum of money. I saw nothing else worthy of note. This city is situated in a plain, but in the vicinity of some mountains of moderate height. The cold here in winter is said to be so severe that the people are obliged to remove to another place. There is a bazaar for the sale of provisions, and fustians of a common description. We remained here till the 30th, on the morning of which day we left, and travelled again over plains and hills, sleeping every night in the open air. The country forms part of Persia, which begins at Tauris.
On the 4th of October, 1474, we arrived at a city called Sena, without walls, but with a bazaar as usual. It is situated in a plain near a river, and surrounded by trees. Here we slept in a very incommodious caravanserai.
On the 5th, we left here; and on the 6th, while bivouacking in the open air, I was attacked by fever. On the morning of the 8th we rode on, I being greatly fatigued, and arrived in good time at a city called Como.[157] Here, when we had entered a caravanserai in a sort of inn, the fever increased and began to trouble me seriously, and the next day all my people were taken ill, except Pré Stephano, who attended to us all. Our illness, from what I was told, was of a kind that is accompanied by delirium, and we said many insane things. Cadi Lascher sent to me to make excuses for not staying longer, saying that he was obliged to hasten to his sovereign, but that he would leave me a servant, and comforted me with the assurance that I was in a country where I should not be molested. My illness kept me in this place till the 23rd. Como is a small but handsome town situated in a plain, and surrounded by a mud wall. It has an abundance of everything, with good bazaars for its manufactures and fustians.
On the 23rd, as I have said, we left here, and I travelled with much suffering on account of my illness.
On the 25th, we arrived at another city called Cassan,[158] having walls and bazaars like those of Como, but it is a finer city.
On the 26th, we left here and entered another small city called Nethos,[159] situated in a plain, where more wine is made than anywhere else. Here, on account of my debility and a slight return of fever, I remained a day. On the 28th I mounted my horse as well as I could, and after travelling again over plains, arrived on the 30th at a city called Spaan. Here we found the Shah Ussuncassan, and having ascertained where Messer Josafa Barbaro, our ambassador, was residing, I dismounted at his lodgings. As soon as we saw each other, we embraced each other affectionately, and with great joy. One may imagine the consolation which this meeting afforded me; but as I was more in want of repose than anything else, I retired to rest. On the following day I had a conference with his Excellency, in which I stated what I had to say. The Shah having heard of my arrival sent his slaves to receive me with presents of provisions.
On the 4th of November, 1474, we were summoned to the presence of the Shah by some of his slaves. Having entered the audience chamber in company with the Magnificent Messer Josafa Barbaro, we found His Majesty and eight of his barons, who appeared to be men of authority. After the required salutations, performed according to the Persian custom, I stated the object of my embassy from the Illustrious Signory, and delivered my letter of credence. When I had concluded, the Shah replied briefly, and, as it were, excusing himself for having been obliged to come to these parts; after which, he made me sit with his barons, and an abundant supply of refreshments were brought, well prepared, according to their methods, of which we partook, seated on carpets in the Persian fashion. When we had eaten we saluted His Majesty and returned to our lodgings.
On the 6th, we were summoned by the Shah, and a great part of the residence where he was staying, which was in the middle of a field, through which a river flowed, in a very delightful locality, was shown to me. One part was formed like a quadrangle and was adorned by a painting, representing the decapitation of Soltan Busech, and showing how he was brought by a rope to execution by Curlumameth, who had caused the chamber to be made. We were served with a luncheon of good confections, after which we returned to our lodgings. We remained in this city of Spaan with His Majesty until the 25th of this month, during which time we were invited by His Majesty to frequent banquets. Spaan appears to be a very convenient city. It is situated in a plain abounding with all kinds of provisions. It is said that, as the city refused to surrender, much of it was destroyed after it had been taken. It is surrounded by a wall of earth like the others. From Tauris to Spaan is a twenty-four days’ journey, through a country entirely belonging to Persia, consisting of a very arid plain with salt water in many places. The corn and fruits which, however, grow in abundance, are produced by means of irrigation. There are fruits of all kinds, and of better quality than I have seen or tasted anywhere. To the right and left of Spaan there are mountains, said to be very fertile, from which are brought the greater portion of the provisions. All things are dear. Wine costs from three to four ducats for a quantity equal to our quart. Bread is at a reasonable price. A camel-load of wood costs a ducat. Meat is dearer than with us. Fowls are sold seven for a ducat. The prices of other things are in proportion. The Persians are well behaved and of gentle manners, and by their conduct appear to like the Christians. While in Persia we did not suffer a single outrage. The Persian women are dressed in a very becoming manner and surpass the men, both in their dress and in their riding. Both women and men are handsome and well-made, and follow the Mahometan religion.