PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Conway.—The suspension bridge by Telford; castle; church; the medieval town walls and bastions; Plas Mawr, a sixteenth-century house.
Penmaenmawr.—Fine cliff scenery; large British fort above quarries.
Llanfairfechan.—A typical Welsh watering-place.
Aber.—Falls.
Bangor.—Model village of Llandegai; Penrhyn Castle; cathedral; University buildings.
(Trunk) No. 5. LLANDUDNO TO BANGOR.
Town Plan No. 5—Conway.
The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a subject of general congratulation. The entrance to the Castle (admission 3d.) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual, one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales—that from the Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.
In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.
One of the entrances to the Church lies in this street. The building is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal 400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.
The Walls of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn, is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a person in the upper story.
Plas Mawr, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (admission 6d.), dates from 1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are not merely a coincidence.
Leaving Conway, the Sychnant Pass may be traversed if desired; it is a steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine views over the whole district.
The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At Penmaenmawr one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design, nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a height of 1,550 feet—the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be plainly seen from the road.
At Llanfairfechan, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh resort—bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient mountain-climbing.
The Falls at Aber are two miles from the road, and can only be reached by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season; but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church (the key generally hangs up in the porch). A tomb with two recumbent effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the costume of the lady point to c. 1470. The church is charmingly clean and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of things which has been productive of the very best results.
The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view of Penrhyn Castle, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up to the gateway. (Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s. for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds goes to local hospitals.) The castle is an impressive modern reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester, and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman architecture.
BANGOR
Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right, and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space, where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525, yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time, were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.
CONWAY VALLEY.
A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.
From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers, who patronize the sands and the pier.
LOOP No. 2
BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED, 20¼ MILES
(The scenery of these twenty miles is so remarkably impressive that this short run is strongly recommended. The return journey can be made via Conway (as described in Section V.), a distance of thirty miles, or a return by the same road need not be shirked, for the scenery unfolds fresh glories when travelling in the opposite direction.)