PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Penrhyn Castle.—Modern Norman structure (open to public).
Llandegai Model Village.—Church, with interesting tomb.
Bethesda Slate Quarries.
Nant Ffrancon.—Scenery wild and grand.
Llyn Idwal and the Devil's Kitchen.—Stern rock and lake scenery.
Llyn Ogwen.—A wild lake among the mountains.
Capel Curig.—The Cyfyng Falls; grand view of Snowdon.
Bettws-y-Coed (see [p. 84]).—A charming village in a steep leafy valley.
Loop 2. BANGOR TO BETTWS-Y-COED.
Those who wish to see Wales in all its aspects should on no account miss the twenty-mile run from Bangor to Bettws. It has been termed the most impressive pass in North Wales, and poetically referred to as 'Beauty sleeping in the lap of Horror.' To fully grasp the feeling of the place a walk through it on a mild winter's day is desirable, and on January 1 of last year one of the writers experienced that sensation, when flying scud and wild lashing torrents of occasional rain from whirling masses of black clouds upon the sombre peaks added a realistic force to the wildness of the scene.
The road leading to Penrhyn Castle and Llandegai is that which should be taken. At Bethesda a typical slate-quarrying town is reached, with great 'tips' of refuse encircling it; the continual roar and rattle of engines, dragging tramloads of slate, high above the roadway, is punctuated with the occasional boom of the blastings. The quarries may be visited if desired, when a memorable sight will be witnessed.
There is nothing in this centre of Welsh Nonconformity of antiquarian interest, and soon a steady ascent leads from it into the Nant Ffrancon Pass, presumably the Valley of Beavers. Upon the right lies a range of mountains, each over 3,000 feet in height, and well known to climbers—Elidyr Fawr, Y Garn, and Glyder Fawr, with Glyder Fach straight in front, and the giant mass of Moel Siabod behind it. On the left, Carnedd Llewelyn, 3,484 feet, and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet, send down great shoulders into the pass, where the winding road, ever ascending, climbs above the grassy valley lying between the encircling giants. At Benglog Bridge, where the foaming Afon Ogwen leaps down the boulders in a torrent, one is nearly 1,000 feet above sea-level. Here the lonely Llyn Ogwen comes into view, but before passing it the short clamber over rocks to Llyn Idwal should on no account be omitted. The path begins behind the little inn, and winds by the side of the stream draining from the lake which abruptly comes into view. This lonely tarn, with its waters reflecting the black scarp of Glyder Fawr, seldom or never lit up by the sun's rays, and often lashed into foam by the fierce eddies sweeping down from the mountains, is the very embodiment of awe-inspiring impressiveness. Even if the day be beautiful there is a wild loneliness, which is accentuated by the legend of Prince Idwal being brutally murdered here by Dunawt at the instigation of his father, to whom the youth had been entrusted by his parents.
The terrific black chasm seen in the rocks overshadowing the pool is named Twll Du, or the Black Cleft, but popularly 'The Devil's Kitchen.' It is 450 feet high and 100 feet deep, narrowing in places to 6 feet wide. A foaming cataract of troubled waters pours down, forming in its fall the hollows at the base termed 'The Devil's Pots.' Many fatal accidents to climbers have occurred here in ascending to Llyn Bochlwyd, lying nearly 700 feet higher, on Glyder Fach, last year (1910) being by no means immune.
South of Lake Ogwen, Tryfaen, the three-headed mountain, is remarkably impressive. Soon after the lake is passed a descent commences to Capel Curig, where a magnificent view of the eastern slopes of Snowdon is obtained between Moel Siabod and Glyder Fawr. The combined waters of the Llugwy and Nant-y-Gwryd accompany the road as it leads downwards to Bettws-y-Coed, with the Swallow Falls and Miners' Bridge, as previously noticed (see [p. 84]).