PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE

Carnarvon.—The Roman town of Segontium; magnificent thirteenth-century castle; town walls; St. Mary's Church.

Splendid views of the Snowdon precipices.

Llanberis.—A popular resort consisting of old and new villages; Dolbadarn Castle; waterfall; slate quarries; mountain railway.

Pass of Llanberis.—Cromlech, so called; impressive scenery.

Beddgelert.—A picturesque village; Gelert's grave; church; prettiest part of route.

Aberglaslyn.—Pass and bridge; delightful scenery.

Penrhyn.—Ffestiniog Toy Railway; Deudraeth Castle, of modern construction.

Harlech.—County town (small) of Merioneth; castle in commanding position.

Llanbedr.—A village; Llyn Cwm Bychan, a wild lake; Roman steps.

Llanddwywe.—Church; Cors-y-Gedol cromlechs.

Llanaber.—Church, Early English architecture; interesting stone relic.

Barmouth.—Modern watering-place; bridge; panorama walk; magnificent views of the estuary of the Mawddach.

Bontddu.—Water-fall.

(Trunk) No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.

No. 6. BANGOR TO DOLGELLEY.

The road from Bangor leads past the Menai Suspension Bridge over the Straits, once a wonder of the world, but now overshadowed by the Forth Bridge and others. It was opened in 1826. The total length of the roadway is 1,000 feet, which is suspended over the water at a height of 100 feet above the highest spring-tide. The view from the bridge is most picturesque, but it is hardly worth while to take a car over. (Motor-car 2s. toll; foot passengers 1d. each.) The bridge has a very distinct swing in a high wind. Farther on one sees the Britannia Tubular Bridge, opened in 1850, and carrying the railway across in two hollow tubes of enormous strength. No one can accuse this engineering feat of being beautiful, but it has thoroughly proved its efficiency. The Anglesey Column forms a prominent landmark at the farther end of the bridge; it was erected as a memorial of the Marquis of Anglesey who distinguished himself at Waterloo. The well-known Plas Newydd, the residence of the present peer, lies adjacent, and there also is the village of Llanfair, sometimes Llanfair Pwll Gwyngyll, and a full name of fifty-four letters if one is still more respectful. At Port Dinorwic vessels load up with slates from Bethesda. The view of the Anglesey coast is fine at first, but the shores gradually deteriorate as one reaches Carnarvon, eventually spreading out in mud flats.

Town Plan No. 6—Carnarvon.

CARNARVON

As the great Roman town and fortress of Segontium, the reputed birthplace of Constantine the Great, the site of a famous feudal fortress, and the birthplace of the first Prince of Wales, Carnarvon undoubtedly occupies a unique position in British history, and, as it still possesses tangible evidences of most of its past record, the traveller is unwise who passes by without a stay of at least a few hours' duration, though a few days would be more appropriate.

Ground Plan of Carnarvon Castle.

Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen, and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly reveals a view of Carnarvon Castle, the vast dimensions of which may probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls, the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the great arch known as the Queen's Doorway is passed high up in the wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the barbican. Within the castle (admission 4d.) the visitor is at once struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature. This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. The Town Walls of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry and the walls two sides of the church.

Of Segontium, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly extended to the river.

The road to Llanberis leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.

Llanberis is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring points.

Dolbadarn Castle is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon region.

Old Llanberis, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new, and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on Snowdon. The entrance to the famous Pass of Llanberis, between Glyder Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features, while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake, from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained. Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards

BEDDGELERT

is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon, Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog, 2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads occurs here—one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and left.

DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR.
Between Conway and Bangor.

Penrhyn Deudraeth is a mining village of no interest, except as the starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country to the left, until it reaches the little town of

HARLECH

Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town. The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (Admission 4d.) A fortress of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550 a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however, incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404 it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408. Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen. Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river, and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another bearing an Ogham inscription. Llanddwywe Church is not of any particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at Llanaber is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the beach near the church.

BARMOUTH

This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions. The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (The toll is 2d., and one of the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is at sunset.) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance; while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.

The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is exceedingly distasteful.

THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH

The road to Dolgelley lies upon the northern shore of this famous estuary, and for beauty and impressiveness cannot easily be overpraised. The many windings in the road accentuate its charm, glimpses, sometimes of entrancing beauty, being frequently presented to the traveller. Besides the scenery there are no special objects to be indicated upon the road; just beyond Brintirion, however, a stream descends which has passed through the gold-field of St. David's, lying upon the slopes of the mountain above. The ruins of Cymmer Abbey, near Llanelltyd, remind one forcibly of Valle Crucis Abbey, so charming and reposeful are the surroundings. It was founded c. 1200 by the Cistercians, and dissolved at the Reformation. The adjoining farmhouse contains parts of the refectory and abbot's lodging. The eastern portion of the church is in the best preservation, and upon the south are a few Early English arches and pillars. The road here turns sharply to the right to Dolgelley, and, entering this quaintly-situated little town, the Golden Lion Hotel is found in the market-place near the church.

LOOP No. 3
DOLGELLEY TO CEMMAES VIA TAL-Y-LLYN, 40 MILES