PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Solva.—A village in pretty scenery.
Pointz Castle.—An earthwork.
Roche Castle.—Very conspicuous.
Haverfordwest.—A pleasant town; the castle, now a gaol; St. Mary's Church, with ancient wooden carving; the Priory Ruins.
Narberth.—A little town with ruins of its castle.
St. Clears.—A small port.
Carmarthen.—A busy county town; the castle, now the gaol; the Guildhall; the church; Picton Monument; interesting market.
Llandilo.—Small town on high ground; Dynevor Castle; Careg Cennen Castle.
Llandilo to Talgarth.—See Loop 6, Part I.
Hay.—A little town on English border; the castle, an interesting structure (not open).
Clifford Castle, birthplace of Fair Rosamond.
Whitney.—Beautiful scenery on the Wye; old timbered houses.
Hereford.—The cathedral, Norman to Perpendicular; the Shire Hall; the castle green; interesting old houses.
Loop 5 (Eastern End). TALGARTH TO HEREFORD.
The distance from St. David's to Haverfordwest is sixteen miles, or, as the natives naïvely express it, 'sixteen miles and seventeen hills.' For the switchback contour, however, one is compensated by the wide views generally obtained when the tops of the hills are reached, before plunging downwards into the next sudden hollow. The same characteristics of wild moorland and storm-swept down prevail as noticed upon the road to St. David's, and it is very interesting to note how gradually the vegetation develops as the route progresses. About two miles out the little village of Solva is passed, lying upon a romantic inlet in this iron-bound coast, and recalling, to some extent, the fishing village of Staithes, in Yorkshire. The view over St. Bride's Bay, with Skomer Island as the farthest point, is exceedingly fine on a crisp, sunny morning, and shortly after leaving Solva, Pointz Castle, an earthwork, appears upon the right hand, at a short distance from the road. The sharp descent to Newgate brings one almost within reach of the salt spray at high tide, and the road runs for a few hundred yards by the sands of that name, giving a glimpse of some fine coast scenery. There is an example here of a 'rolling beach,' an accumulation of pebbles being washed over and over upon the flat land beyond. The road now climbs to the uplands, upon which stands Roche Castle, a conspicuous landmark for many miles. It was built in the reign of Henry III., but has later windows inserted. Garrisoned for the King during the time of the Civil War, it was captured by the Parliamentarians, but subsequently retaken. Lord St. Davids, the present owner, has adapted it for modern habitation. Its position upon a rocky scar, in the midst of a treeless plain, is peculiarly imposing.
As the road approaches Haverfordwest trees of respectable proportions begin to appear, no longer leaning towards the north-east.
HAVERFORDWEST
The town of Haverfordwest occupies an important position among those of South Wales, and is the centre of commerce for a large district. The streets are narrow and steep, with sharp turnings, probably caused by the confinement of the ancient fortifications which once protected the town. Of these practically nothing remains but the shell of a strong castle, now converted into the county gaol, standing upon a rocky eminence overlooking the town. Although very impressive when viewed from a distance or from the River Cleddau in the town, it hardly repays minute inspection. Gilbert de Clare, Earl of Pembroke, is said to have built it about 1120, and it became, with that of Pembroke, one of the most important fortresses in 'Little England,' as the southern part of Pembroke was termed. It was demolished by order of Oliver Cromwell.
St. Mary's Church is of great interest, the exterior showing some fantastic gargoyles, and the nave some fine clustered columns of Early English work, with a Perpendicular clerestory above. The ceilings should be noticed, and also the early lancets at the west end. It is a beautiful church, full of light, with no gloomy corners. There is an ancient wooden carving of St. Michael the Archangel and the Dragon, dating from the fifteenth century.
The Priory Ruins are situated a short distance from the southern part of the town, and are quite picturesque. They are the remains of a priory of Austin Canons erected in the twelfth century. The very liberal grants of Robert de Hwlffordd, lord of this town, were confirmed by Edward III. The remains of the minster are of Early English work.
The road from Haverfordwest takes a sharp turn to the right upon leaving the town, and passes over the railway-lines. An isolated church stands upon a hill to the right, and soon afterwards the woods surrounding Picton Castle, two miles away, come into view. It is one of the most ancient residences in the kingdom, having been built by a De Picton in the reign of Rufus. From that time it has been inhabited by an unbroken line of proprietors, never deserted, never vacant. The alterations have not very much affected the baronial style of the building, and until quite recently it presented the appearance of a medieval fortress.
At Canaston Bridge the road crosses the eastern Cleddau, which discharges into Milford Haven, and here, upon the left, at about a mile, lies the picturesque ruin of Llawhaden Castle, once a residence of the Bishops of St. David's. The gateway, flanked by two demi-bastions, forms a very effective picture.
Approaching Narberth, the right-hand road should be taken at Robeston Wathen. Fir-trees near this point begin to make their appearance, having been conspicuously absent from St. David's to this point.
NARBERTH
There is a very steep hill in this town, leading to the ruins of a Norman castle crowning the summit. They are picturesquely covered with ivy, but the remains now apparent are small when compared with those visible in the eighteenth century. The roads in the neighbourhood of Narberth are rather misleading, as so many by-roads enter. Care should be taken to decipher the sign-boards in many cases before proceeding. Between Narberth and St. Clears, for instance, there are three roads at Tavernspite near an inn, and the centre one should be taken.
St. Clears is a long and straggling village at the head of an estuary of the Taff, and vessels of small tonnage can reach it at high tide. It formerly possessed a castle and a priory, but both have disappeared. The town itself is uninteresting. Between St. Clears and Carmarthen the small hamlet of Banc-y-Felin is particularly pleasing, with a tributary of the Taff flowing through it.
CARMARTHEN
Carmarthen, the capital of the shire, stands upon the site of the Roman Maridunum, and is the point of convergence of two roads, Via Maritima and Via Montana. Some parts of the town stand at a considerable elevation, and present an imposing picture from a distance. It is an excellent example of an old Welsh town, retaining a great deal of its primeval quaintness. Upon market-days, when it swarms with people from the surrounding districts, one seldom hears a word of English spoken, and the busy scenes witnessed in the bustling market are mainly transacted in the mother-tongue. Upon entering the town the Picton Monument is seen, raised in honour of the Peninsula hero, who fell at Waterloo.
The Church of St. Peter is a large building chiefly in the Perpendicular style, with a lofty square tower. The interior has been very carefully plastered so as to hide everything of interest. A Roman altar, however, may be seen below the tower.
Sir Richard Steele, who died in 1729, the friend of Addison, and the well-known man of letters, lies buried in this church. In his old age he came to reside at Llangunnor, near Carmarthen.
The Castle, which at one time made Carmarthen a place of strength, was demolished by the Parliamentarians, and the small portion remaining has been converted into the county gaol. On leaving Carmarthen the route towards Llandilo lies upon the Roman road, the Via Montana. It includes some of the finest scenery in South Wales. There are two roads running in the valley, with the railway separating them; the north one is the more picturesque.
At a loop in the road about ten miles out, Middleton Hall, lying due south, and erected by Sir William Paxton, may be recognized by the tall tower which forms such a conspicuous landmark. It is known as Paxton's Tower, but was raised by him in memory of Nelson. Almost directly afterwards, Dryslwyn Castle comes in sight, a most picturesque ruin, consisting of one tower and many fragments of walls. It was besieged in the time of Edward I., when Lord Stafford and other leaders lost their lives, in undermining the fortress, by the sudden collapse of the walls beneath which they were operating.
On Grongar Hill, a few hundred yards away to the right, the poet Dyer composed his poem 'Grongar Hill.' The view from the summit is charming. On the farther side of the valley can be seen Golden Grove, the residence of Viscount Emlyn. Dynevor Park and Castle come into view upon the right front on reaching the neighbourhood of Llandilo. The ruins stand upon a lofty mound a short distance from the road, in the most attractive portion of the park. The first castle was built in 877, and almost rebuilt in the time of William the Conqueror. For some centuries it was the residence of the Princes of South Wales. Henry VII. granted it to Sir Rhys ap Thomas, a descendant of the Princes, and ancestor of the present owner, Lord Dynevor. It was occupied until 1760. The remains consist of a round keep and a square tower, commanding a magnificent prospect. (The ruins are open for inspection to the bona-fide visitor upon application.)
LLANDILO
Llandilo is a small town perched upon two or three steep hills to the north of the River Towy, crossed here by a stone bridge of one span. The streets are narrow, with the public buildings grouped together in the centre of the town. The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1848, and everything of interest then disappeared. If a stay can be arranged at Llandilo, one of the most remarkable edifices in the kingdom, Careg Cennen, should be seen. It is a castle almost without a history, standing upon a rocky height with inaccessible precipices on three sides, the foremost one over 300 feet in height. Two square towers guard the sloping ground upon the fourth side, and the main portion of the castle occupies the summits of the precipices. The situation is superb and the scenery delightful. The spirit of romance is free from any of the handicaps usually suffered by the historian, for in this castle among the clouds, in connection with which history is silent (except a reputed origin in the thirteenth century at the hands of Rhys of Wales), the wings of imagination may soar to any height. This is a site awaiting the novelist in search of a romantic setting for a story of the Middle Ages. It stands about five miles to the south-east of Llandilo, overlooking the Vale of the Towy.
Between Llandilo and Llanwrda a large Roman camp can be seen lying upon Carn Goch, and at the inn where the road turns to Llangadock a large tributary joins the Towy. In a few miles Llanwrda is reached, and the loop for St. David's is thus completed. For the road between Llanwrda and Talgarth, see [pp. 143-148].
The route from Talgarth to Hay is winding, and care should be taken to avoid the numerous roads leading away from the main road, which lies on the south side of the River Wye, and for a considerable distance is parallel to the railway.
Glasbury, beyond the Three Cocks, is a small village much frequented by the fishing fraternity; a fine prospect of the Black Mountains is obtained, and the views generally are among the best to be found in the district.
The entry into Hay is very pretty, with shady hedgerows and many of the attributes of English scenery.
HAY
This little town lies upon the borders of England and Wales, at the junction of the shires of Radnor, Hereford, and Brecon. The word 'Hay' is allied to 'hedge,' meaning a boundary. It was at one time the main entry into Wales from England, and naturally, from its position, it has seen stirring times in the past.
The Castle dominates the town, and is easily reached from the main street; the entrance is at the back. The architecture now appears to be a mixture of all kinds, including Tudor, for numerous additions have been made. A residence constructed out of the old materials occupies part of the site. Sir Philip Walwyn is supposed to have built the first castle in 1090, and at the end of the twelfth century extensive additions were made. Henry III. almost rebuilt it, and in 1233 Llewelyn ap Jorweth stormed it. Thirty years later it was taken twice, and in the time of Glendower it was burnt. Many other minor happenings have occurred to lend variety to its existence. James I. made large additions to the building. The fortifying walls once enclosing the town have nearly disappeared. The road upon the town side traverses the former moat. A view across the river gives a glimpse of a Roman camp near the stream, while to the north-west stands Clyro, reached by a main road, and enclosed by beautiful woods. A mound of earth and a moat are now the sole remains of the proud and lordly Clyro Castle mentioned by Leland.
The ruins of Cusop Castle and Mouse Castle lie at a short distance from the town, and a favourite excursion is that to the far-famed Llanthony Abbey, lying amid romantic wilds some ten miles to the south.
The route to Whitney crosses the river at Hay, passes through Clyro, and in two miles affords a view of Clifford Castle, standing upon a bold eminence by the side of the river; it was the birthplace of Jane de Clifford, the Fair Rosamond of Henry II., and the former residence of the Lords de Clifford. The scenery in the environment of these beautiful ruins is most charming. The route from Hay may be taken in this direction if desired. (A toll of 9d. has to be paid to cross the river.)
WHITNEY
The village of Whitney is surrounded by a rich belt of pasture-land interspersed with clumps of trees, and exceedingly beautiful scenery is to be found upon the river-banks. There is no ancient church, for it was washed away in a flood in the early part of the eighteenth century. The beautiful views seen at Whitney unfold themselves more and more as one reaches Letton, Merbach Hill upon the right, rising high out of the ground like a hog's back, giving a characteristic touch to the scenery. At Letton a particularly beautiful group of black-and-white timbered cottages stand by the side of the road, and remind one that English soil has been reached, and that the never-ending monotony of the Welsh whitewashed cottages has at last been left behind. At Staunton, on the Wye, a little Early English church is perched above the village. On the right there formerly stood a castle, and near it is Moccas Park, the residence of Royalty in Saxon times. The present owners are descended from Richard, the second son of King John. After passing Byford a portion of Offa's Dyke occurs upon the left, crossing over Mansell Hill. Some quaintly-cut yew-trees may be seen near the Kite's Nest Inn, and just before entering Hereford, at White Cross, an interesting cross is noticeable. It was put up in 1347 by Bishop Charlton to commemorate the disappearance of the Black Plague, and was restored by Archdeacon Lord Saye and Sele.
HEREFORD CATHEDRAL FROM THE BANKS OF THE WYE.
It belongs mainly to the Early English period, and is built of a reddish stone.
TOWN PLAN NO. 7—HEREFORD.
HEREFORD
is a pleasantly-situated town, but if it were not for the possession of a cathedral the place would not offer any particular attractions for visitors beyond the charming river scenery common to the Wye Valley.
Hereford became a separate see in 673, and Putta was the first Bishop. The first church was rebuilt in a better fashion when the remains of the murdered Ethelbert were brought to Hereford, but this pre-Norman structure was burnt by the Welsh in 1055. In 1079 Robert of Lorraine, the first Norman Bishop, began the cathedral of which much exists at the present day, using dark red sandstone. The choir up to the clerestory, the arcades of the nave, and the south transept, are Norman work of this early date.
The beautiful Lady Chapel, and the clerestory of the choir are Early English. The north and both the eastern transepts, part of tower, and the chapter-house, are Decorated. The chantries, sacristy, and a few other parts, are Perpendicular. The western tower fell in 1786, and brought down with it the west front and the first bay of the nave. This disaster accounts for the modern west front. Upon entering the nave the Norman bays are singularly impressive, especially the carved capitals. The choir is entered through a metal chancel screen; the stalls are richly carved, and 'the chair of King Stephen' is preserved in it. Scattered about in the great building there are probably more monumental tombs and effigies than in any other cathedral, and this is especially true with regard to ecclesiastics. Two notable monuments are those of Bishop Aquablanca (1245-1268), and the shrine of St. Thomas of Cantilupe in the north transept. A famous archæological treasure, the Mappa Mundi, a map of the world, drawn on one large sheet of parchment in the thirteenth century by Richard de Haldingham, is preserved in this building, and may be seen upon application. The Bishop's Palace is close to the Wye, on the south side of the cathedral.
The Shire Hall, a Grecian Doric building, standing in St. Peter's Square, was erected in the early part of the last century.
The Castle Green is the site of the vanished Castle of Hereford; it is one of the prettiest parts of the town. Hereford contains some interesting houses, and three of them, now used as a bank, may be seen in the High Town. It was at one time the Butchers' Guildhall, and the carving upon the outside, as well as the inside, is extremely ornate.