PLACES OF INTEREST ON THE ROUTE
Rhayader.—A small and uninteresting town; Birmingham reservoirs.
Builth.—Another small town, possessing no interest besides the site of the castle and the wells.
Talgarth (1 mile distant).—Remains of Bronllys Castle; Llangorse Pool.
Crickhowell.—The church; the castle ruins.
Abergavenny.—A market town; castle, now a recreation-ground; church, with fine carved oak; earliest wooden effigy; the Blorenge.
(Trunk) No. 8. LLANGURIG TO ABERGAVENNY.
The road to Rhayader traverses part of the Upper Wye Valley, and gives frequent glimpses of troubled, foam-flecked water, alternating with long reaches where the river slides smoothly along its rocky bed. The setting is one of pastoral scenery, bounded by the rounded uplands, which help to form the catchment basin for the great lakes which now supply Birmingham with water. This gigantic undertaking, to be extended altogether over fifty years, will eventually be the means of constructing a chain of lakes in the vale of the Elan, effectually providing for the future needs of the great manufacturing metropolis so far as water is concerned.
RHAYADER
The chief attraction at Rhayader is the scenery, as nothing of particular importance meets the eye in the town. It is a good sketching-ground for artists, many excellent subjects being discoverable in the surrounding country. To the angler it is a paradise. Although it possesses two churches, they are not worthy of the time required for inspecting them. The Wye here is an impetuous mountain stream, plunging amid the rocks strewn along its course; to this point the salmon reach the upper waters at the spawning season. Between Rhayader and Builth there are several very sharp turnings in the road, requiring considerable care if risks are to be avoided. The Wye is close to the road at many parts of its course, and forms the boundary between the counties of Brecon and Radnor. Farther on the stream begins to lose its torrential character, and, traversing this well-wooded valley, assumes more of the calm and placid character with which one generally associates it. It receives the superfluous water from the great lakes of the Birmingham Corporation Reservoirs by the Afon Elan soon after passing Rhayader. To the west of Newbridge-on-Wye, Lysdinam Hall, the ancestral home of the Venables, is seen upon an eminence.
BUILTH WELLS
This ancient town, the Bullæum of the Romans, is the centre of trade for the neighbouring districts, and derives much importance from its wells—saline, sulphurous, and chalybeate. The population is less than 2,000, but probably a regiment might be raised locally all bearing the surname of Price or Powell.
The Castle, or rather the site of it, is near the town, close to the Wye Bridge. It possesses a double fosse, a rampart of earth, and a keep, which, judging from the foundation, must have been of great size. It was besieged and captured by Llewelyn in 1260.
The scene of Llewelyn's death in 1282 lies near the Radnor road at Cefn-y-Bedd, a few miles from the town. The Prince was refused a refuge in Builth (hence 'The Traitors of Builth'), and, reversing his horse's shoes, fled in the deep snow for safety, but was overtaken and slain.
The church of Builth is a modern erection, and the town is uninteresting.
The road from Builth to Talgarth passes through Erwood, at some five miles' distance, and Garth Hill, crowned by an earthwork, lies to the left; it is also the place where the English troops in quest of Llewelyn forded the river in 1282. Two miles away to the left are the celebrated Falls of Craig-pwl-du, a fall of 40 feet into a weird ravine. The neighbourhood is full of interest to the antiquary and the geologist. About three miles beyond Erwood the castle and woods of Llangoed are passed, and Boughrood Castle appears on the left. Lyswen is reputed to have been an early residence of the Welsh Princes. The general character of the road between Builth and Talgarth may be stated as not wildly grand, but an exquisite combination of river scenery with eminently beautiful surroundings, where the ruggedness of the rocks is softened by a covering of verdure, and foliage in subtle gradations of beauty appears on every hand. It is probably one of the most splendid roads for scenery of this character in the Principality.
THE WYE, SYMOND'S YAT, NEAR MONMOUTH, HEREFORDSHIRE.
At this point the view embraces some of the finest river scenery in Britain.
TALGARTH
This quiet little town, nestling under the shadow of the Black Mountain, is chiefly noted for the proximity of Bronllys Castle, one mile distant, of Early English and reputed Norman architecture. It is a round tower, 70 feet high, standing upon a mound, and its history appears to have been lost. The Black Forest now lies upon the left hand, and upon the right, at a few miles' distance, is Llangorse Lake, a large but shallow sheet of water 500 feet above sea-level, and much referred to as a probable source for the future supply of water to London. The scheme is considered a feasible one, and the water would flow to the metropolis by gravitation. According to tradition, the lake covers the site of a large city which perished in some terrible catastrophe—a similar type of legend to that of Semmerwater in Wensleydale. As the road nears Crickhowell the great Sugar Loaf (1,955 feet) becomes prominent, with a number of small villages, farmsteads, and cottages dotting the slopes of the lower hills. The River Usk now appears descending a valley from Brecon, together with the main road from that place.
CRICKHOWELL
The Church is a building of some dignity, with nave, chancel, aisles, and spire standing near the bridge.
The Castle remains consist of a square tower in fair preservation, flanked by a round one, together with tumbled mounds of masonry and earth. Several beautifully-situated seats are near the village. From Crickhowell to Abergavenny two roads run, one on either side of the valley, that upon the right being slightly longer, but it is more picturesque. The Sugar Loaf Mountain lies to the left across the valley, while an opening in the hills to the right reveals a glimpse into the Black Country of the South Wales Coalfield. Near Llangrwyne there is a most romantic stretch of country, with many beautiful features.
ABERGAVENNY
This flourishing market town claims a high antiquity in history as being the direct descendant of the Roman Gobannium. Its quaint narrow streets contain some houses of interest, while the splendid country lying around tempts the tourist to stay.
The Castle, standing upon an eminence overlooking the Usk, was an important Norman stronghold. William de Braose, in the twelfth century, invited many Welsh chieftains to a Christmas feast in the castle, and then foully murdered them; in retaliation their relatives burnt the castle. It, however, rose again, and came after a time into the Warwick family, passing eventually to the Nevilles, represented now by the Marquis of Abergavenny, who lives at Neville Court, up the river. As a ruin, now laid out as something between a tea-garden and a recreation-ground, the castle is exceedingly disappointing. The steeps of the Blorenge are well seen from the terrace.
The Church is near the post office and market hall. The Herbert and Lewes Chapels are the chief points of interest in it, but attention should be drawn to the ancient carved-oak seats in the choir, and also to the font. A colossal recumbent figure of what must at one time have been a 'Jesse tree' is preserved here; it is 10 feet long, and the stump of the tree remains, springing from the side of Jesse. When complete it must have formed a splendid screen, standing behind the high-altar. The wooden effigy of George de Cantelupe in the Herbert Chapel (1273) is the finest example of early wood-carving extant in these islands.
Near the church stands Priory Mansion, with a good garden, and splendid oak panelling in the interior.
Abergavenny is an ideal place for the budding mountain-climber, who can have excellent practice upon the Blorenge, the great Skyrrid, and the Sugar Loaf.