CHAPTER VI
JELLIES, JAMS, PRESERVES, MARMALADES, FRUIT JUICES AND SIRUPS
For jelly making select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and contains a large amount of pectin. Fruit that is just a little underripe contains more pectin than the mature or overripe fruits. Pectin is the substance that makes jelly harden. This fundamental jelly-making quality does not exist in all fruits. Such fruits as currants, crab apples and grapes contain much pectin and are, therefore, considered excellent jelly-making fruits.
The white inner skin of grapefruit is also a prolific source of pectin, but as it has a bitter taste we seldom use it for jellies, though we find it valuable in making orange, grapefruit and other marmalades.
Rhubarb, strawberries and cherries all lack pectin, but can be made into good jellies if we add the white skins of oranges and lemons to them while cooking.
So the very first thing we must know about jelly making is whether or not a fruit contains pectin. There will be no tears shed over jelly that will not "jell" if all young housewives will learn the simple test for pectin; to find out whether a juice contains pectin or not is a very easy matter.
Take one tablespoonful of grain alcohol—90 to 95 per cent.—and add to it one tablespoonful of cooked juice that has been cooled. The effect of the alcohol is to bring together the pectin in a jelly-like mass. If a large quantity of pectin is present it will appear in one mass or clot which may be gathered up on a spoon. You will notice I said cooked juice. It is peculiar that this pectin frequently is not found in the juices of raw fruits, though it is very plentiful in the cooked juices. Therefore the test must be made with cooked juice.
There is little pectin in the juice of raw apples, raw quince, raw grapes, and yet the cooked juices are full of pectin.
This test not only indicates the amount of pectin present, but it also gives some idea of the proper proportions of sugar to juice. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a gelatinous mass or clot this indicates that you should use three-fourths as much sugar as juice. If the pectin is slightly gelatinous or is less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, use less sugar. If the pectin is less than one-half add some form of pectin to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, for flavoring ice cream or some form of cooking.
By employing this test, sugar can often be reduced, and thus the jelly texture will be fine, less rubbery and the flavor will be better.
After the fruit has been selected and prepared as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth, it is ready to be heated in an acid-proof kettle. With juicy fruits use just enough water to prevent burning—about one cup of water to every four or five quarts of fruit. The juicy fruits are currants, raspberries, and so forth. With less juicy fruits, as apples or quinces, use enough water to cover, or follow the rule, half as much water as fruit. Use the cores, skins and seeds; these improve the flavor and color of the jelly.
Berries can be mashed. Heat the fruit slowly in a covered kettle, stirring once in a while to obtain an even cooking. When the simmering point is reached, crush the fruit with a well-soaked wooden masher. When the fruit is tender or has a transparent appearance, it is ready to strain.
The jelly bag must be of closely woven material; one with a large mouth is advisable. If cheesecloth is used double it and tie opposite corners together. When a very clear jelly is desired use a flannel or felt bag for straining the juice.
What drips into the dish or pan is called Extraction One. When this Extraction One is fairly drained out, which takes about thirty minutes, do not squeeze the pulp for a second grade jelly as so many housewives do; instead, make another juice extraction. To do this, empty the contents or pulp in the bag into the preserving kettle, cover with water, and stir until thoroughly mixed; then cover, bring slowly to a boil as before and drain again. The juice that drips out is called Extraction Two.
The pectin-alcohol test can be used here again to find out whether there is much or little or no pectin left. If much pectin is present, you can repeat the operation and get Extraction Three.
Three extractions usually exhaust the pectin, but sometimes you can get as many as five extractions.
You may say, "Why bother with extractions—why not squeeze the juice and be done with it?" You will get clearer, better-flavored and more glasses of jelly if you will make the extractions than if you squeeze the jelly bag.
I always make the jelly from Extraction One by itself, but usually combine Extraction Two and Three.
The next step in jelly making is vitally important—that is, how much sugar to use to a given amount of fruit juice. This is where many housewives "fall down" on jelly making. They use the same proportion of sugar to all juices.
To make jelly that does not crystallize the right proportion of sugar must be added to the juice. To make jelly that is not tough or unpleasantly sour, the right proportion of sugar and juice must be used.
Currants and unripe or partly ripened grapes are so rich in pectin that they require equal amounts of sugar and juice—that is, to every cup of extracted currant and grape juice we add one cup of sugar.
Red raspberries and blackberries require three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of juice. All fruits which require much water in the cooking take three-fourths of a cup of sugar to every cup of juice. Crab apples and cranberries are examples.
It is harder to make jellies from the fruits to which a large amount of water is added than from the juicy fruits.
I am frequently asked, "When should you add the sugar to the fruit juice in jelly making? Do you add it at the beginning of the boiling, in the middle of the process, or at the end, and should the sugar be hot when added to the juice?" It is better to add the sugar in the middle of the jelly-making process than at the beginning or the end. Skim the juice well before adding the sugar, so as to lose as little sugar as possible.
If the sugar is hot when added it will not cool the juice, and thus the cooking time will be shortened. To heat the sugar put it in a granite dish, place in the oven, leaving the oven door ajar, and stir occasionally. Be careful not to scorch it.
After the juice is put on, the jelly making should be done as quickly as possible. No simmering should be allowed and no violent boiling. A steady boiling, for as few minutes as possible, will produce good results.
Currant, blueberry and grape jelly usually can be made in from eight to ten minutes. The hot sugar is added at the end of four or five minutes.
Raspberry, blackberry and apple jelly take from twenty to thirty minutes. The sugar is added at the end of ten or fifteen minutes.
The jellying point is hard to determine. If you have a cooking thermometer or candy thermometer always use it when making jelly. It is the one sure, reliable test.
The temperature for jellies is 221 degrees Fahrenheit. If you want a very soft jelly, boil it 220 degrees. If you want to use it immediately, then boil it to 222 degrees.
If you do not have a thermometer the next best test is to pour the boiling sirup from the side of a clean, hot spoon, held horizontally. If the sirup is done two drops will break simultaneously from the side of the spoon.
Another test is to take a little jelly on a cold plate and draw a path through it with the point of a spoon; if the path stays and the juice does not run together, the jellying point has been reached.
When the jellying point has been reached, remove the kettle from the fire, skim the jelly and pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses, which have been set on a cloth wrung out of hot water to prevent breaking. Fill the glasses not quite full.
Never attempt to make more than six to eight glasses of jelly at one time. If new at the game make only four, because there is danger of the juice jellying in the kettle before it can be removed.
When the jellies are well set cover them with hot, not merely melted, paraffin. The paraffin if hot will kill any germs that may fall on the surface of the jelly. Then cover with the clean tin or aluminum covers and store the jelly in a dry, cool place after proper labeling.
STEPS IN JELLY MAKING
1. Select firm, slightly underripe fruit that is fairly acid and contains a large amount of pectin.
2. Prepare fruit as usual by washing, stemming, and so forth.
3. Heat slowly in acid-proof kettle until fruit is tender. Mash berries before beginning to cook them. A little water may be added if necessary to keep from burning. Cut hard fruits into small pieces; add half as much water as fruit.
4. Pour into dampened bag.
5. Drain through closely woven bag.
6. Make alcohol test for pectin to determine minimum amount of sugar to use, also the character of the fruit. The amount of pectin, the fundamental jelly-making property, varies in different fruits. To make the pectin test add to one tablespoonful of cold cooked fruit juice one tablespoonful of grain alcohol. Shake gently. Allow to stand one-half hour. If three-fourths or more of the juice forms a lump add three-fourths as much sugar as juice in making jelly. If the precipitate—pectin—is not held together in a lump or is less than three-fourths of the whole volume of juice, add less sugar in proportion to juice. If less than one-half forms a lump, add pectin to make the jelly, or can the juice for use as a beverage, flavoring, and so forth.
7. If fruit juice meets jelly-making test put on to cook.
8. Add required amount of sugar after juice begins to boil or midway in the process.
9. Stir until sugar is dissolved.
10. Cook rapidly, but not hard.
11. Test to determine when jelly stage is reached by dipping a clean spoon into boiling juice. Remove and allow juice to drip from it. If done, two drops will break simultaneously from side of spoon. Some prefer to wait until mass sheets off from side of spoon. Better still, use thermometer.
12. Remove from fire and skim.
13. Pour immediately into hot, sterilized glasses.
14. When cool add hot melted paraffin. Melt the paraffin in a little coffeepot or pitcher with spout, so it will pour easily.
15. Cover, label and store.
No time can be given for jelly making, for several things enter into consideration: The proportion of pectin in the juice, the amount of water used in cooking the fruit and the proportion of sugar to juice; the more sugar used, the less time needed.
JAMS AND BUTTERS
Jams and butters are not so difficult to make as jellies.
1. Carefully wash berries and fruits.
2. Weigh the fruit on standard scales or, if scales are not convenient, use measuring cup.
3. Mash berries. Cut large fruits into several pieces.
4. Add enough water to prevent sticking.
5. Stir to keep from burning.
6. Cook gently until the mass begins to thicken.
7. Measure sugar, using three-fourths part of sugar to one part fruit. That is, for every pound of fruit use three-fourths of a pound of sugar, or to every cup of fruit use three-fourths of a cup of sugar.
8. Continue cooking, allowing the jam to simmer gently.
9. Cook the mixture until the desired consistency is reached. When a little of the jam falls in heavy drops from the spoon, it is thick enough.
10. A small amount of mixed ground spices, vinegar or crystallized ginger can be added if desired.
11. Pour into hot, sterilized glasses to within one-half inch of the top.
12. Allow to cool, seal with paraffin, cover, label and store.
Fruit butters are always softer than jam. Marmalades are made much as are jams. The rind is usually used in lemon, orange and grapefruit marmalades.
Conserves consist of a combination of several fruits. Nuts and raisins are often added to conserves.
Preserves are thick mixtures containing sugar equal to at least three-fourths of the weight of the fruit.
If you wish to eliminate the necessity of using paraffin or other wax tops for jellies, jams and preserves, you can use the cold-pack method of canning. You may have containers with screw or bail tops which you wish to use in this way. The following is one recipe showing how to proceed.
Cherry Preserves. Place one gallon of water in a kettle and add ten pounds of pitted cherries. Boil slowly for eighteen minutes. Add twelve pounds of granulated sugar and cook until product is boiling at a temperature of 219 degrees. Cool quickly in shallow pans. Pack into glass jars. Put rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip if using enameled tin cans. If using a hot-water-bath outfit, sterilize twenty minutes; if using a water-seal outfit, a five-pound steam-pressure outfit or a pressure-cooker outfit, sterilize fifteen minutes. Remove jars. Tighten covers. Invert to cool and test the joints. Wrap jars with paper to prevent bleaching and store. When using pressure-cooker outfits on preserves, keep the valve open during period of sterilization.
Fruit Juices. Fruit juices furnish a healthful and delicious drink and are readily canned at home. Grapes, raspberries and other small fruits may be crushed in a fruit press or put in a cloth sack, heated for thirty minutes, or until the juice runs freely, and allowed to drip.
Strain through two thicknesses of cotton flannel to remove the sediment, sweeten slightly, bottle, close by filling the neck of the bottle with a thick pad of sterilized cotton, heat to 160 degrees, or until air bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the cooker, and keep at this temperature one hour and a half to two hours; or heat to 200 degrees, or until the bubbles begin to rise to the top of the water, and hold at this temperature for thirty minutes. The hot water comes up to the neck of the bottle. Cork without removing the cotton. If canned in jars close the jar partly, and seal tight after cooking.
Fruit juices should never be heated above 200 degrees, as a higher temperature injures the flavor.
Strawberry Preserves. 1. Add thirty-five ounces of sugar to one-half pint of water; bring to a boil and skim.
With this amount of sirup the berries can be packed attractively without floating and no sirup will be left over.
To this amount of sirup add exactly two and three-fourths pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries. Boil the fruit until it registers 222 degrees Fahrenheit on a candy or chemical thermometer. If no thermometer is available boil until the sirup is very heavy—about as thick as molasses. Remove the scum.
Fill the sterilized jars full of hot berries. Pour in enough of the hot sirup to fill the jar, leaving as little air space as possible. Put sterilized rings and caps on at once, but do not fasten tightly.
Stand the sealed jars in tepid water up to their necks if possible. Bring this water to a boil. Let pint jars stay in the boiling water for at least fifteen minutes and quart jars at least twenty-five minutes; then close caps tightly at once. At the conclusion of the operation, stand each jar for a moment on its cap to make sure that the seal is absolutely tight.
Recipe Number 2. The following method is preferred by some because it leaves more of the natural color in the preserves:
To two pounds of washed, capped and stemmed strawberries add twenty-six ounces sugar; let stand over-night. In the morning pour juice thus obtained into a preserving kettle, add berries and cook to 222 degrees Fahrenheit, or until the sirup is very heavy. Pack and sterilize, as in Recipe Number 1. These recipes can be used for all other berries.
When wet weather makes strawberries too soft or sandy for the table, they are still useful for making "strawberry acid," a thick sirup which, mixed with water, ice and perhaps spearmint, makes a cooling summer drink.
Strawberries—Sun Preserves. Select firm ripe berries; hull and rinse. Place them in a shallow platter in a single layer; sprinkle sugar over them. Pour over them a thick sirup made of one quart of water and eleven pounds of sugar, boiled until very thick.
Cover them with a glass dish or a plain window glass. Allow them to stand in the hot sun eight to twelve hours. Pack them in jelly glasses and cover with paraffin or put in regular glass jars or tin cans. Put the rubber and cap in position, not tight. Cap and tip or seal if using enameled tin cans. Sterilize for the length of time given below for the particular type of outfit used:
| MINUTES | |
| Hot-water bath, homemade or commercial | 20 |
| Water seal, 214 degrees | 15 |
| Steam pressure | 10 |
Remove the jars, tighten the covers, invert the jars to cool, and test the joint. Wrap the jars in paper to prevent bleaching.
When using steam-pressure or pressure-cooking outfit on preserves, remember to keep the valve open during the sterilizing.
SPECIAL DIRECTIONS FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING
Apples vary in the percentage of sugar and acid they contain; a fine flavored acid apple should be used when possible. Winter apples are best for jelly making. If necessary to make apple jelly in the spring, add juice of 1 lemon to every pint of apple juice.
Apricots are delicious combined with pineapple.
Blackberries, elderberries and loganberries make delicious juices and shrubs for summer beverages.
The total time of making blueberry jelly need not exceed 10 minutes.
Cranberries are not always put through a jelly bag, but are rubbed through a sieve.
Cherries are most delicious if preserved in the sun. A good combination for preserves is equal parts of cherries and strawberries.
Crab apples can be combined with some juices, such as peach, pear and pineapple, to furnish necessary pectin.
One-half currants and one-half raspberries make a delicious jelly; currants are in best condition for jelly making from June 28 to July 3.
Black currant jam is considered quite a delicacy these days.
Acid grapes are best for jelly; sweet, ripe grapes contain too much sugar. Equal portions ripe and green grapes are satisfactory.
If gooseberries are fully ripe they make finer-flavored jam than do green-as-grass gooseberries.
Some women are successful in making peach jelly, but be sure to test for pectin before completing the process, to save time and effort.
Pineapple is best canned alone or used as foundation for conserves.
An underripe, acid plum is best.
Plums and apples combined make an excellent tasting jelly.
Quince parings are often used for jelly, the better part of the fruit being used for preserving.
Raspberries and other berries should not be gathered after a rain, for they will have absorbed so much water as to make it difficult, without excessive boiling, to get the juice to "jell."
Rhubarb is an excellent foundation for the more expensive fruit. It will take the flavor of other fruits and thus we can make an otherwise expensive jam "go a long way."
Strawberries combine well with other fruits and can be utilized in many ways.
Select sour, smooth-skinned oranges.
Lemon Marmalade. After the 9 oranges and 6 lemons are sliced, put in kettle; add 4 quarts water, cover and let stand 36 hours; then boil 2 hours. Add 8 pounds sugar and boil one hour longer.
Grapefruit used alone is bitter. Oranges or lemons or both are usually combined with grapefruit.
All wild fruits or berries used for jelly making must be fresh and not overripe. Barberry jelly is firmer and of better color if made from fruit picked before the frost comes, while some of the berries are still green.
CHART FOR JELLY AND JAM MAKING
| KIND OF FRUIT | CHARACTER OF FRUIT | HOW TO PREPARE | AMOUNT OF WATER NEEDED FORCOOKING | AMOUNT OF SUGAR NEEDED FORJELLYING |
| APPLES, SOUR | Excellent for jelly making | Wash, discard any unsound portions,cut into small pieces. Include seeds skin and core | One-half as much water as fruit | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| APRICOTS | Not suitable for jelly making.Excellent for jam. | Leave a few stones in forflavor. | For jam use just enough water tokeep from burning | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof apricots for jam |
| BLACKBERRIES | Excellent for jelly making | Wash | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofberries | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| BLUEBERRIES | Excellent for jelly making; make asweet jelly | Wash | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofberries | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice |
| CRANBERRIES | Excellent for jelly making | Wash | One-half as much water asberries | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| CHERRIES | Pectin must be added for jellymaking | Pit the cherries for jam | For jam, use just enough water tokeep from burning | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof cherries for jam |
| CRAB APPLES | Excellent for jelly making | Same as apples | One-half as much water asapples | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| CURRANTS, RED | Excellent for jelly making | Do not remove stems for jelly | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofcurrants | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice |
| CURRANTS, BLACK | Better for jam | Remove stems | Enough water to keep fromsticking | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof currants |
| GRAPES, UNRIPE | Excellent for jelly making | Wash, do not stem; use stems | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofgrapes | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice |
| GOOSEBERRIES | Excellent for jelly making | "Head and tail," using scissors | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofgooseberries | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice |
| PEACHES | Pectin must be added for jellymaking | Peaches, apples and raisins make adelicious conserve | Just enough water to keep fromburning | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| PINEAPPLES | Pectin must be added for jellymaking | Prepare as for table use | For jams, enough water to keep fromburning | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| PLUMS, GREENGAGE | Suitable for jelly making | Mash fruit and remove stems; cookstones with fruit | 1 quart of water for each peck offruit | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| PLUMS, DAMSON | Suitable for jelly making | Wipe and pick over; prick severaltimes with large pin | 1 quart of water for every peck ofplums | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| QUINCES | Excellent for jelly making, if nottoo ripe. If so, add crab apple | Cut out the blossom end. Mash andcut in quarters | One-half as much water asquinces | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| RASPBERRIES | Excellent for jelly making | Wash them thoroughly, but do not letthem soak in the water | 1 cupful of water to 5 quarts ofberries | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice |
| RHUBARB | Pectin must be added for jellymaking. Better for jam. | Wash and cut into small pieces | For jam, half as much water asfruit. | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof juice |
| STRAWBERRIES | Pectin must be added for jellymaking. | Wash and remove hulls. | For jam, just enough water to keepfrom burning. | ¾ cupful of sugar to 1 cupfulof pulp. |
| CITRUS FRUITS | ||||
| ORANGES | Excellent for jelly making andmarmalade | For orange marmalade weigh orangesslice cross- wise with sharp knife as thin as possible; removeseed. | Cook in water to cover. | Three-quarters their weight insugar. |
| LEMONS | Excellent for jelly making and tosupply pectin to other fruits | For marmalade 9 oranges and 6 lemonsare a good combination | 8 pounds of sugar | |
| GRAPEFRUIT | Best for marmalades | Grapefruit is sliced very thin, seedremoved. | Three-quarters their weight insugar. | |
| WILD FRUITS | ||||
| RASPBERRIES, BLACKBERRIES, BARBERRIES,GRAPES, BEACH PLUMS. | All excellent for jelly making. | Prepare as other fruits. | Just enough water to keep fromburning. | 1 cupful of sugar to 1 cupful ofjuice. |