DIA. VII A.
I also give Dia. [VII A], of which Dia. [VII] is the parent pattern. This Dia. [VII A] requires no particular description, except that the back of Dia. [VII] is swung from point 10½ at the armhole shoulder seam, and the ordinary spring in the shoulder seam is added. In the position of Dia. [VII A] the cutter may easily throw the shoulder seam more forward at the armhole if he so desires it. The neck band must be a straight piece, as wide as button holes can be worked in, and the neck band must be put on loose at the side of the neck. The width in front, and the depth of the neck in front must be regulated according to the coat. The depth of the front of neck is placed at 3, and is as high as any cape may stand, but it is easy to cut it ½ lower. A cape may be cut without neck band by allowing say ⅝ inches on top of top and side of back, and by allowing a ⅝ short spring in the shoulder seam, and giving a good stretch besides.
Dia. VII a.
The last illustration I present is the “Collar as it Must be Pressed,” the full description of which is found in the article on “[Collars].”
AS THE COLLAR SHOULD BE PRESSED