Supplement.
The manuscript for this work has been closed, but I feel that I must write a few things more, for I intend to record all that I know, at least all that which I remember and is worth knowing, and all that which I may have learned since the manuscript is closed. I have come to the conclusion that it would be better to give a frock coat diagram with no lap at the front waist seam, and for this reason I have made Dia. [IIa], and in order to make the most of it, I have made it to fit the following forms:
I. For a medium long neck,
II. For a medium full waist,
III. For a medium erect position,
IV. For a medium short form,
and to the following measure: Breast 37, waist 37, hip 38, length of waist 18, length of coat 36, length of legs 30 inches.
Dia. [IIa] is a trifle wider at the shoulders than Dia. [II], which is seen by the 9⅜ at 60 deg., and by the width of the back at the armhole, which is ¼ number more, and which requires the back sleeve seam ¼ shorter than Dia. [II]. The neck is for a form with ½ in. more length than the normal form, hence the top of back is placed at 2¾, and the spring between the shoulder seam is ¾, which requires the collar to be sewed on loose over the side of the neck. The armhole is in all respects the same, and the neck is changed from the top of arm upward.
Dia. [IIa] shows a full waist which is shown by the ¼ gore in the underarm gore at the waist, and in the larger width in the front of waist. The roll is shorter than on Dia. [II]. It buttons three buttons but may easily be made longer. The heighth of back above lines 9 and 13¹⁄₁₆ is only 14¾, being ¼ shorter over the blade, because most all such forms are more or less erect forms. In place of a lap of 1 in. in front the waist seam has a gore of 1 in. behind, and the run of that seam may be made to suit fancy or style. In cutting, the top of sidepiece should be run out into the armhole until it is long enough for the back from the nicks upward, as shown on Dia. [IIB].
DIA. IIA.