Rib Fabrics

A rib fabric is one which has a rib or wale on both sides of the cloth. It has much more stretch or elasticity than cloth of the jersey group; about twice as much, generally speaking. The elasticity of either one, however, may be varied to a marked degree by changing the length of loop drawn.

Rib fabric is peculiarly adapted for such garments or parts of garments as should be close fitting, such as ladies’ undergarments, cuffs for all kinds of knitted garments, tops of half hose, etc. Fig. 24 shows very clearly the course the yarn takes to form this stitch. It would be well to study this drawing in connection with Figs. 2 and 3 and note carefully the different course the yarn takes in order to form a wale on both sides of the fabric. A photographic reproduction of a plain rib fabric showing both sides is given at a, a, in Fig. 25.

Fig. 24.
Construction of a Plain
Rib Fabric.

A properly constructed plain 1 and 1 rib fabric, such as is shown in Fig. 24, should be alike on both sides. Very often this is not the case. A little carelessness on the part of the adjuster in not drawing the stitch the same length on both sides will make a difference on the flat machines, while it is impossible to make them the same on an ordinary circular machine on account of the principles of construction of this machine.

Fig. 26 is a view of a flat machine making the rib stitch, looking down from above. It almost fully explains the method of making this stitch to those who have carefully read and understand the principles of making the jersey stitch. In this illustration the carriage is moving from right to left, and both front and back cams are in operation, therefore both front and back needles are working.

It should be noted that the back plate is set so that the needles of that plate come up at a point in the middle of the spaces between the needles of the front plate. The cams, front and back, being made exactly alike and set exactly opposite one another, must push the needles of both plates up at the same time and draw them down at the same time. When we feed the yarn, indicated by the letter a in Fig. 26, down through the guide, b, it is drawn into loops from both sides alternately, as shown at c, by the opposite sets of needles, thereby making stitches, or ribs, or wales, on both sides of the fabric. This is the plain 1 and 1 rib stitch.

Fig. 25.
Face and Back of Fabric;
a, a, Plain Rib;
b, c, Half Cardigan;
d, d, Full Cardigan.

Fig. 26.
Flat Knitting Machine Making the Rib Stitch.