Simplest Method of Forming Loops
The needles used for hand knitting are straight rods of steel, wood, bone or celluloid. Not less than two of these needles must be used as indicated in Figs. 7, 8 and 9. To start we take the yarn and make a small slip knot or noose, with which we are all familiar, slip one needle through the loop thus made and draw the yarn up so that it fits around the needle loosely.
Fig. 7.
Forming Loops by Hand, First Step.
Fig. 8.
Forming Loops by Hand, Second Step.
Fig. 9.
Forming Loops by Hand, Completed.
We now have the cornerstone laid. Holding this needle in the left hand with the fore-finger bearing lightly on the loop, we take the other needle in the right hand and slip it through the loop as in Fig. 7, next draw the yarn over the end of the right hand needle as shown, then draw this needle back to the point where it will pass the left side of the loop on the right hand needle, but not far enough to allow the yarn that was placed over the end to drop off. Then we draw this yarn through as indicated in Fig. 8, and we will have the second loop.
At this point in the building up of the fabric we would slip the previous loop off the left hand needle and let it hang on the newly formed loop on the right hand needle, as in Fig. 9, but as we are not as yet building, but only laying the foundation, we slip this new loop back on the left hand needle, where we now have two loops. The next step is to take the right hand needle, slip it through the second loop, and proceed as with the first, then slip the third loop back on the left hand needle. This procedure is repeated until there are sufficient loops to make the fabric the width wanted. We now have our foundation on which to build.
Figs, 7, 8 and 9 give a very clear illustration of the method of building up the knit fabric by hand knitting after the first course. It should be noted, however, that after the right hand needle has completed the new course, and the last loop has been dropped off the left hand needle, the right hand needle with its full number of loops is shifted to the left hand and the empty needle then becomes the working needle in the right hand.
This first course of stitches, it should be noted, has the needle loop only, the sinker loop being tied in to form a base or edge from which to start. Fig. 7 shows the first position to form the loops with two needles. One full course is on the needle lettered a, while needle b is thrust through the first loop of the last course and receiving yarn to draw through a new loop.
Fig. 8 shows the new loop drawn through, while Fig. 9 shows the old or preceding loop cast off from needle a and hanging from the new loop on needle b.
Fig. 10.
Crochet Stitch,
Catching Thread.
Fig. 11.
Crochet Stitch,
Drawing Stitch.
Figs. 10 and 11 show the crochet stitch, which is taken up at this point to show its similarity to the knitted loop and to explain the points of difference. The illustrations show very plainly the method of forming crochet loops and they also show that this stitch is simply a single chain or wale of loops succeeding one another.
When crochet work is to be made into a fabric, the hooked needle is pushed through the side of another loop at the point at which it is to be joined, and the new loop is drawn through this old loop as well as the one on the needle. There is never more than one loop used at a time in making this work.
Fig. 12. – Back
Fig. 13. – Face
Jersey Fabric.
In the knitted fabric the loops are laid side by side and there are a sufficient number of loops being used at all times to make the width of fabric desired. The wales are bound together by the yarn passing from one loop to the next adjoining one, thereby forming the sinker loops which have already been explained.
Figs. 12 and 13 are photographic reproductions of a piece of closely knitted jersey or flat goods. The stitch formation in this cloth is exactly the same as shown in the line drawings at Figs. 2 and 3.
It may be well to state here in passing, that all textile fibres have more or less flexibility or resiliency, and while this characteristic is infinitely small in any single fibre or hair, it is quite appreciable when there are hundreds of fibres grouped together and twisted into a yarn. This is the reason for the elasticity or stretch in knitted fabrics.
It will be noticed in Fig. 2 that in forming the loops the curvature or bend of the thread is gradual and uniform. When this yarn is knitted into fabric and both top or needle loop, and bottom or sinker loop are attached to or drawn through other and like loops, and we pull or stretch the fabric, we draw sharp curves or corners in the yarn where it passes around the preceding and succeeding loops. When we let go or take the strain off the fabric, the natural tendency of the fibre to straighten out or take an easier curve brings the fabric back into its original position.
I would suggest that the reader take any straight piece of yarn, worsted if available, form a loop, and hold it between the thumb and finger of one hand, then press the loop together with the thumb and finger of the other hand and demonstrate for himself this characteristic of textile fibres.
CHAPTER II
Latch Needle Knitting—Making Jersey Cloth on the Lamb Type of Machine
Although what is known as the spring beard needle was a part of the original invention of the knitting machine, and was in use more than 200 years before the latch needle was invented, I am taking up the latch needle machine first for two reasons. First, because the latch needle type of machine is most largely used and is more popular in this country today than any other type; and second, because I believe it can be more easily understood by a person who is not familiar with machine knitting.
Fig. 14.
Latch Needles.
In machine knitting of every kind there must be a needle for every loop, and therein lies the fundamental difference between machine and hand knitting. Latch needles, however, are constructed entirely different from the straight plain hand needles. Fig. 14 shows the construction of the latch needle. It will be noted by looking at the latches on the three needles that they swing freely on a pin or rivet lengthwise of the needle, but have no movement sidewise.