The Full Cardigan Stitch
The full cardigan stitch is not nearly so generally used as the half cardigan and plain rib stitches. It is seldom if ever used in making underwear or any fine fabrics. When it is made it is usually used for sweater fabrics or other novelty wearing apparel of this character.
Fig. 29.
Construction of a Full Cardigan Fabric.
A line drawing of the full cardigan stitch is shown in Fig. 29. This stitch, as its name would indicate, is made in the same way as the half cardigan only the stitches are held alternately on both rows of needles on alternate courses. Referring again to Fig. 28, in making the full cardigan stitch the cams would operate exactly the same while moving toward the far end as shown and explained for the half cardigan. But the means provided to hold the right hand cam, a, at the top position would have been removed, so that on the return from the far to the near end this cam would be thrown down to the same position as the left hand cam, a, is shown, while this left hand cam would be forced up into the position in which the right hand cam is now shown. In other words, the stitch would be the same with the carriage or cams moving in either direction, only it would alternate on each course from one row of needles to the other.
We will refer back to Fig. 25, which shows both sides of a piece of fabric with the three stitches we have just discussed in one piece. This shows quite plainly the individual characteristics of each. All have the same number of needles or wales, the same yarn was used, on the same machine; yet how different the results!
The most marked difference is in the width. There is proportionately the same difference in the thickness, but this cannot very well be shown. It should be observed that the stitch or loops of the plain rib a, a, and the full cardigan d, d, are the same on both sides of the fabric, while the stitches in the half cardigan, b and c, are not. It will be noted also that the stitch of the plain rib is much smaller than that of the two cardigans, also that the wales or ribs hug very close together in the plain rib, while they are separated more or less in the cardigans.
CHAPTER IV
The Rack Stitch—Making Shaped Collars—Opportunities in Designing Fabrics
The rack stitch is used on many sweaters for a border on the bottom, also for a narrow strip on both sides of the shoulder seam, and a strip at the place the stitch changes from half cardigan to plain for the cuff. Many sweaters have the collar and the border down the front made separately in the rack stitch and sewed on. Most of the designs in the knitted neckties made on flat machines are based on the rack stitch. Another very important use for this stitch is in making a smooth sightly edge on the bottom of sweaters, the ends of cuffs, etc.
The rack stitch is always made on one of the cardigans. From this statement the reader will realize that this stitch is not made in place of the half or full cardigan, or any other stitch but is an addition to, or a further development of these stitches.
Fig. 30.
Half Cardigan Stitch Ready to Rack.
Fig. 31.
Stitch After Plate Has Been Racked Over One Needle.
Fig. 30 shows a half cardigan stitch ready to rack, as it is customary to make the one needle rack on this stitch. It should be noticed that the racking is done on the course that holds, or does not cast the previous stitch off on one side. Fig. 31 shows the stitch after the plate has been racked over one needle. This illustration practically explains the whole principle of the rack stitch. The rack will show on the side that casts the stitches off the needles. It is customary to hold the stitch or tuck on the back plate, therefore the rack shows on the front side of the fabric, or the side toward the operator of the machine.