CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

PAGE

[The Coast and the Port] 1

CHAPTER II

[Ascent to Armenia] 37

CHAPTER III

[To Akhaltsykh] 53

CHAPTER IV

[To Akhalkalaki] 72

CHAPTER V

[At Akhalkalaki] 86

CHAPTER VI

[Prospect from Abul] 92

CHAPTER VII

[Gorelovka and Queen Lukeria] 96

CHAPTER VIII

[To Alexandropol] 118

CHAPTER IX

[At Alexandropol] 124

CHAPTER X

[To Erivan] 133

CHAPTER XI

[To Ararat] 143

CHAPTER XII

[Ascent of Ararat] 156

CHAPTER XIII

[The Heart of Ararat] 179

CHAPTER XIV

[Return to Erivan] 200

CHAPTER XV

[At Erivan] 206

CHAPTER XVI

[Edgmiatsin and the Armenian Church] 228

CHAPTER XVII

[To Ani and to Kars] 316

CHAPTER XVIII

[Ani, and the Armenian Kingdom of the Middle Ages] 334

CHAPTER XIX

[Kars] 393

CHAPTER XX

[Across the Spine of Armenia] 409

CHAPTER XXI

[Geographical] 421

CHAPTER XXII

[Statistical and Political] 446