Cravate Jesuitique.
This is a Cravat in appearance only.
For this style the waistcoat must be made en cuirasse, and the collar must be high enough to conceal the neck entirely. The shirt collar is turned down and forms a kind of band.
Although this style has lately become very general, we have never been at all prepossessed in its favour; not merely because it is unpleasant to the eye, but that we rather pride ourselves in despising most cordially whatever has the least resemblance to the name or quality of a Jesuit.
In closing this lesson, we must observe, that although we have specified the colour which fashion seems to have patronized for each particular style of Cravat, we do not (in any instance) intend to exclude the chaste simplicity of white, which may be introduced in any of them.
LESSON XVI.
AND LAST.
Important and necessary Observations.
In all cases of apoplexy, fainting, or illness in general, it is requisite to loosen or even remove the Cravat immediately.
The greatest insult that can be offered to a man, comme il faut, is to seize him by the Cravat; in this case blood only can wash out the stain upon the honour of either party.
The Cravat should invariably be loosened before the commencement of study, or of any important business.
Those who have a short neck, high shoulders, a round, full, and fresh coloured face, and who are at all subject to head aches, beatings of the temples, &c. should be most careful to wear the Cravat loose; the neglect of this precaution will generally produce an attack of the complaint to which they may be liable.
Those who are accustomed to sleep in the Cravat, should be most careful in examining whether it be loose. In all cases of organic diseases of the heart, or large vessels, &c. it should be entirely prohibited.
Lastly.—Every person at all accustomed to travel, and who has the least respect for his appearance, should provide himself with a box for containing a collection of Cravats.
This box must be divided into several compartments, and be made of the following proportions; eighteen inches in length, six inches in width, and twelve in depth, it should contain,
1 A dozen (at least) of plain white Cravats.
2 The same quantity of spotted and striped white Cravats.
3 A dozen coloured ditto.
4 Three dozen (at least) shirt collars.
5 Two whalebone stiffeners.
6 Two black silk Cravats.
7 The small iron mentioned in the first lesson.
8 As many copies as possible, of this important and useful work, taking the precaution of having them well bound, that they may occupy less room.[2]
[2] Editor’s opinion.
CONCLUSION.
On the Importance of the Cravat in Society.
When a man of rank makes his entrée into a circle distinguished for taste and elegance, and the usual compliments have passed on both sides, he will discover that his coat will attract only a slight degree of attention, but that the most critical and scrutinizing examination will be made on the set of his Cravat. Should this unfortunately, not be correctly and elegantly put on—no further notice will be taken of him; whether his coat be of the reigning fashion or not will be unnoticed by the assembly—all eyes will be occupied in examining the folds of the fatal Cravat. His reception will in future be cold, and no one will move on his entrance;—but if his Cravat is savamment and elegantly formed—although his coat may not be of the last cut—every one will rise to receive him with the most distinguished marks of respect, will cheerfully resign their seats to him, and the delighted eyes of all will be fixed on that part of his person which separates the shoulders from the chin—let him speak downright nonsense he will be applauded to the skies; it will be said—“this man has critically and deeply studied the thirty-two lessons on the Art of Tying the Cravat.”—But again reverse the picture—it will be found that the unfortunate individual who is not aware of the existence of this justly celebrated work—however well informed he may be on other subjects—will be considered as an ignorant pretender, and will be compelled to suffer the impertinence of the fop, who will treat him with disdain, merely because his Cravat is not correctly disposed—he will moreover be obliged to hear in silence, and to approve (under pain of being considered unacquainted with the common rules of politeness) all the remarks which he will thus subject himself to—occasionally relieved by hearing a whisper of “He cannot even put on a Cravat properly.”
THE END.