FURTHER PROCESSING

Curing Pork

Precautions: The suggestions described in this bulletin are intended for use at home or on the farm where facilities for curing are limited. The continued use of nitrates and nitrites in meat curing is presently being investigated by the United States Department of Agriculture and the Food and Drug Administration. Therefore, before using nitrates (saltpeter) and nitrites as mentioned in this bulletin, check with your local county agent to determine whether its use has been rescinded. For establishing a commercial curing operation, contact the local Extension Service or your State Department of Agriculture for methods and regulations, or write to the USDA, Food Safety and Quality Service, Washington, D.C. 20250.

The USDA has recommended that nitrates (saltpeter) not be permitted in commercial curing operations using curing solutions. Nitrates would still be permitted in very limited amounts in dry cured or fermented sausages because of their importance in flavor, color fixation, and retarding bacterial growth. Be very careful in adding nitrates to your meat—they are very poisonous in large amounts.

Nitrites may be toxic when eaten in large quantities. Care should be taken to use only the required amount. They may be purchased from farm supply stores and some drug stores. Very small quantities of sodium or potassium nitrites are used in curing solutions. It is advisable to have your supplier measure and package separately the amounts you plan to use. For example, the formula for sweet pickle cure includes only 1.18 ounce (33.45 grams or two and a half tablespoons) of nitrite per 100 pounds of meat. Several packages of exactly this amount would greatly aid in preparing curing solutions.

Do not put meat in cure until it has been thoroughly chilled for at least 24 hours. In addition, do not stack cuts which have not been properly chilled because stacking slows chilling and may result in spoilage. Frozen cuts should be thawed prior to curing.

Weigh curing ingredients carefully. Too little salt may allow spoilage. Too much salt will make meat hard, dry, and salty.

Suggestion: Numerous states have published excellent illustrated bulletins on curing meat on the farm. The following bulletins* are recommended:

* A small fee may be required.

  1. Curing Hams Country Style. North Carolina Agr. Ext. Service Cir. No. 405, by J. A. Christian and T. N. Blumer. January 1971. North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C. 27607.
  2. Curing Georgia Hams. University of Georgia Cooperative Ext. Service Bul. No. 627, by J. A. Christian. 1973. University of Georgia, Athens, Ga. 30601.
  3. Pork Processing on the Farm. University of Kentucky Cooperative Ext. Service Cir. No. 621, by W. Y. Varney and J. D. Kemp, University of Kentucky, Lexington, Ky. 40506
  4. Curing Ham—Virginia Style. Virginia Polytechnic Institute & State University Ext. Div. Publication No. 223, by R. F. Kelly, P. P. Graham, J. D. Baldock and Jo Anne Barton. 1974. VPI, Blacksbury, Va. 24061

All parts of the pork carcass can be cured. The hams, shoulders, and bellies are usually cured. Although the loin can be cured, it is generally used fresh as chops or roasts.

The ingredients used in curing are salt, sugar, and sodium nitrate or nitrite. Salt is the preserving agent; nitrates (dry cure only) and nitrites are added for color and flavor development, but are also preserving agents. Sugar is used to counteract the harshness of salt. Commercial cures are available with some added spices and flavorings to give a characteristic flavor, aroma, or appearance.

Curing pork on the farm is usually done by one of two methods: dry cure or brine cure (plain or sugar-cured).

Dry Curing

The dry cure method entails rubbing meat with curing ingredients. Check the internal temperature of the largest cut. Be sure it is below 40° F. Federal meat inspection regulations state that the temperature of meat being dry cured should not be allowed to go below 36° F during the salt cure equalization period. Weigh the meat and curing ingredients accurately. For 100 pounds of meat, use an 8-2-2 mix.

Mix curing ingredients thoroughly. For curing hams and picnic shoulders, divide into three equal parts. Rub one part of the mixture on all surfaces of the meat, making sure to push the mixture into the shank end of the hams. Put a thin layer (one-eighth inch) of cure over all cuts and stack in the curing room, skin side down on a table or shelf. On the fifth day, remove the hams and shoulders and apply the second one-third of the cure. Apply the last one-third on the tenth day.

Bellies will usually cure with only one application. However, like hams and shoulders, they can be resalted on the fifth day.

Federal meat inspection regulations state that the salt (cure) equalization period for hams and picnics is usually less than about 40 days or 3 days per pound of product (fresh weight). Bellies are commonly cured about 7 days per inch of thickness.

The curing pork should be stored in a refrigerated place where a constant temperature between 36° F and 42° F is maintained. Bacteria grow rapidly in unsalted meat when the temperature rises above 50° F.

After curing, soaking the meat will improve its quality and appearance. Soak in lukewarm water (not exceeding 70° F) for approximately 2 minutes for each day in cure. Soaking tends to distribute the seasoning more evenly and draws out some of the heavy salt concentration on the meat surface. Hang cuts up to dry for about 3 hours before smoking.

Sweet Pickle Cure

Place chilled, trimmed cut into a clean crock or barrel and cover with a cold pickle solution. The pickle solution is made by dissolving the following ingredients in 4½ gallons of water:

Weight the meat down to keep it from floating and cover it with curing solution. Keep the meat cold during the curing period (36° to 40° F).

Overhaul the meat about once or twice during the curing period to allow the pickle to reach all parts of the meat. To overhaul, remove all the meat, pour out the pickle, repack the meat, and cover with the same restirred pickle. To the extent possible, the cuts should be repacked so that surfaces that were previously in contact with other cuts are now exposed to the curing solution.

Curing time for hams and shoulders is 3½ to 4 days per pound. Thus a 6-pound shoulder needs 24 days to cure and a 15-pound ham will require 60 days. A 10-pound belly will cure in about 15 days. However, heavier bellies and loins will require 21 days.

During curing the temperature of the pickle should be maintained at around 36° F. At higher temperatures, the brine may become sour or ropy due to the growth of bacteria. Ropy brine looks like partially cooked egg white. If this happens, discard the brine, scrub the meat with hot water, wash and scald the curing container, and repack meat with a new, cold curing solution. If the curing period was half over, make the new solution two-thirds the strength of the original. If three-fourths over, make the new solution one-half the original strength.

After curing, prepare the meat for smoking by soaking (as discussed under dry curing) and drying.

Pumping Hams and Shoulders

To speed up curing, most commercial packers pump brine into the hams and shoulders. Brine pumping can be used in conjunction with the other methods, or alone. Pumping requires special needles and a pump (hand or electric) to ensure proper distribution of the brine. The brine solution is prepared using the 8:3:1.18 mixture previously outlined. Two pounds of this cure mixture are dissolved in 1 gallon of cold water and the meat pumped with brine equivalent to 10 percent of its weight. Pumping may be accomplished by using the artery or stitch method. The femoral artery of the ham is located above the big flat bone which is cut when the ham is separated from the carcass. The artery is about halfway between the cut surface of the bone and the point of the aitch bone. With small forceps, you can clamp the end of the artery and push tissue and loose fat away so the pumping needle can be inserted. Stitch pumping is not as effective as artery pumping but is more so than either dry or pickle cure. Stitch pumping is accomplished with a spray needle by pumping along the bone, around the joints, and vertically in thicker, lean parts of the ham or picnic. Cuts should be stored for a day to allow the cure to equilibrate prior to smoking.

Smoking

Smoking cured pork improves its appearance and gives it a characteristic aroma and flavor apart from that of any other meat product. Careful attention should be given to smoking and aging procedures to prevent microbial spoilage or insect infestation.

Smokehouses:

The smokehouse can be simple or elaborate in design, depending on the quantity of meat to be smoked. It should be of reasonably tight construction to permit easy regulation of temperature and flow of air and smoke. Special attention during construction should be given to the control of insect and rodent infestations.

Temporary smokehouses for small quantities of meat can be constructed cheaply and easily. Construction should include a ventilated enclosure for hanging and smoking the meat as well as facilities for generating smoke and supplying it to the house. A barrel or drum with both ends removed, connected by a stove pipe or a covered trench to a fire pit, can be used ([fig. 90]). Set the barrel over the upper end of the 10 to 12 feet of stove pipe, which is sloped downward to the fire pit. Control the heat of the fire by covering the pit with a piece of sheet metal and mounding earth around the edges, so as to cut off most of the draft. Clean muslin or burlap hung over the top of the barrel will protect a 1-inch opening between the barrel and the cleated top, which rests on broomsticks supporting the meat ([fig. 90]). This type of smokehouse is large enough for the cuts from one hog. An old refrigerator or a simple frame house can be used rather than a barrel. The fire can also be built in a ventilated barrel which is connected to the smokehouse by a stove pipe.

Figure 90.—Barrel for smoking.

Permanent structures suitable for smoking meat should be constructed if large quantities of meat are to be smoked. Tight construction and well-fitted ventilators provide effective regulation of the air flow past the meat. An outside firebox makes temperature control easy and reduces fire hazard. Consult the local extension agent for detailed plans for the construction of permanent smokehouses.

Smoking Process:

All meat to be smoked should be soaked to remove surface concentration of salt. Cuts should be allowed to dry since a wet surface will not take a uniform smoked color.

Hang the cuts in the smokehouse in such a way that cuts do not touch each other or the wall. Suspend hams and shoulders with string or clean galvanized wire through the shank. Prior to hanging bellies, reinforce the ends with hardwood skewers or clean galvanized wire to hold them square. Bacon hangers can also be made from strips of non-resinous wood through which several small galvanized nails have been driven.

In the firepit, build a fire of any hardwood, such as hickory, oak, apple, pecan, and maple. Hickory is the most popular. NEVER use soft woods (pine, cedar, spruce, or other “needle leaf” trees) because their smoke is sooty and contains resin which gives the meat a dark color, bitter taste, and strong odor. Once the fire is burning, hard wood sawdust can be added to deaden the blaze and generate more smoke. Dampen the sawdust with water to prevent it from flaming. A thin haze of smoke is as effective as a dense cloud.

The absorption of smoke and the change in color of the outside surface of smoked meat is hastened by high temperatures. The type of smokehouse and the outside temperatures are important factors in the length of time required to smoke meat. Federal meat inspection regulations state that whenever the fresh appearance of a product containing pork muscle tissue has been altered to resemble a product that may mistakenly be eaten without cooking or with less than thorough cooking, it must have been treated in an acceptable manner to destroy possible live trichinae by heating to an internal temperature of 137° or otherwise treating (see page [62]).

A suggested schedule for smoking pumped or pickled cured hams is as follows:

To be fully cooked, it is recommended that the cuts remain in the smokehouse until their internal temperature reaches 152° to 155° F.

For smoking bacon, the following schedule may be used:

Storage of Smoked Meats:

Cured, smoked pork can be handled several ways depending on the final product desired. It can be eaten immediately, refrigerated or frozen for future use, canned, or aged for the development of the characteristic “country-cured” flavor. If the product is to be frozen or canned, follow the recommendations given in the Wrapping or Canning sections.

Canning

If done properly, pork can be satisfactorily preserved by canning. Meat is a low acid, high protein food that allows for good bacterial growth. The use of a pressure canner is vital to ensure that the sterilization temperature (240° F) is reached and maintained for the proper length of time. A water bath or a steamer is not recommended since neither one attains a sufficiently high temperature to produce effective sterilization. Meat may be canned soon after chilling since aging has little effect on the flavor and tenderness of canned meats.

The proper canning procedure is as follows: Use only pint and quart jars. Larger jars are difficult to heat thoroughly to the center. Cut the meat into small strips or cubes. Place meat into a large shallow pan; add enough water to prevent sticking. Cover the pan and cook slowly until medium done. Stir occasionally so that the meat heats evenly. Two and one-half pounds of boneless meat will fill a quart jar.

Pack hot meat loosely in glass jars and cover with hot meat broth or boiling water. Leave 1 inch of head space. For flavor, salt can be added to each jar (approximately one-half teaspoon per pint or 1 teaspoon per quart). Clean any residue from the top of the jar and adjust lids to manufacturer’s specifications and process in a pressure canner at 10 pounds pressure (240° F). Process pint jars for 75 minutes; quarts for 90 minutes.

Allow the canner to cool until the pressure drops to zero. Don’t pour cold water over the canner to hasten the cooling. Remove the jars and space them a few inches apart to cool.

If a jar does not seal, re-can the meat in another jar or use it for food at once. When re-canning, heat the meat through. Then pack and process in pressure canner for the full time recommended. Store sealed jars of canned meat in a cool, dry place and don’t allow it to freeze.

Lard Rendering

To produce a high quality lard with good stability, remove all the skin and lean from the back-fat and other fat trimmings. Fats from around the internal organs should be rendered separately because they yield a darker lard than leaf fat and other body fat trimmings.

Cut the fat into small pieces of similar size for quick uniform rendering. Steam rendering, if available, is most preferable since it eliminates the danger of scorching. When fat is rendered in a kettle over an open fire, it should be stirred frequently and the fire should be kept low to prevent sticking and scorching. Do not use a copper or brass kettle because these metals cause rapid rancidity.

The temperature of the fat during rendering should remain about 212° F. As the process continues, water will evaporate and the temperature will increase. Do not allow it to go above 255° F.

As the rendering process proceeds, the cracklings float to the surface and become brown in color. When boiling (evaporation of water) ceases, the rendering process is completed and heating can be discontinued. Strain the lard through several thicknesses of cheese cloth into lard pails or crocks, and cool immediately at a temperature near freezing. While cooling, stir to a creamy stage to prevent graininess. If the lard is dark in color, it is because it was scorched or there was too much lean left on the fat. Additional lard can be obtained by pressing the hot cracklings in a lard press.

Air and light can cause lard to become rancid; therefore, containers should be filled to the top, sealed tightly and stored in a dark, cool place.

Fresh Sausage

Fresh pork sausage is generally made by grinding and seasoning lean pork trimmings from bellies, hams, and shoulders. Fresh sausage should contain about 20 to 30 percent fat. If more fat is included, the sausage may be too greasy and shrink a lot in cooking. If entire shoulders or hams are used, it may be necessary to add some fat.

Prepare sausage by grinding the meat through a coarse plate (½-inch holes), mix thoroughly, spread thin, add seasoning, and mix thoroughly. Regrind through a finer plate (⅛-inch holes), for a more uniform mix with the seasoning.

For seasoning 100 pounds of trimmings, a suggested seasoning formula would be the following:

Other seasoning such as mace, nutmeg, cloves, or red pepper can be added in small amounts (not to exceed 5 ounces) if desired.

Seasoned sausage should not be frozen for longer than 2 or 3 months since salt hastens the rancidity of pork. Unseasoned ground pork may be frozen for up to 5 to 6 months, then thawed, seasoned, and used.

Sausage may also be stuffed into casings for use either with or without smoking. Artificial casings can be obtained from local butchers or natural casings (small intestines) can be used. Natural casings should be washed thoroughly, cleaned, and scraped prior to use. Stuffing sausage requires skill and proper equipment. It is best to have sausage stuffed and smoked by a local custom processor.

Scrapple

Scrapple, a favored breakfast dish in many sections, is made of cooked pork and broth thickened with cornmeal, flour, and sometimes shorts. The following formula is popular:

Cuts of pork such as the head, tail, kidneys, heart, tongue (skinned), spareribs, and pork trimmings may be used to make scrapple. Clean and trim all pieces thoroughly and place them in a pot or vessel; cover with water and cook until the meat separates easily from the bone. Separate the meat from the bones and grind or chop fine. After grinding return the meat to the broth and bring to a boil, add corn meal, buckwheat flour, and rolled oats and cook until the mixture has the consistency of thick mush. Season with salt, pepper, and spices; remove from the heat and pour into molds or shallow pans to harden.

When adding the cereal, moisten it with some of the cooled broth so that it may be added without forming lumps.

If made properly, scrapple can be sliced and fried easily with little crumbling.

Headcheese

Headcheese is easy to make. Split the head, remove the eyes, clean the ears and nostrils, cover the cleaned pieces in water with the tongue, heart, and some lean trimmings and cook until the meat is well done and separates easily from the bones. Grind the meat and cover with broth. Add seasoning (salt, pepper, and others if desired), cook for 15 to 20 minutes and pour into pans. Headcheese can be eaten cold or fried the same as scrapple or panhas. Headcheese does not hold together as well as scrapple because of the absence of corn meal and flour.

The following quantities of seasoning per 100 pounds of cooked meat, including the added broth, are recommended:

Panhas (pon-hos)

Using the broth remaining after making headcheese, strain out all the bones and thicken with corn meal, buckwheat or rye flour. Use three or four parts broth to one part meal to make a thick paste. To prevent lumping, it is best to slightly moisten the meal with a little cooled broth before adding it to the other broth. Season to taste with the seasonings given for headcheese. Cook for 30 to 45 minutes and pour into shallow pans to cool. Slice and serve like scrapple.

Pickled Pigs’ Feet

Pigs’ feet should be clean, free from hair, and the toes removed. Make certain to clean between the toes and trim any remaining hair.

Cure clean, chilled feet in brine for 15 days to 3 weeks. Use the same brine suggested for curing hams. Weight the feet to keep them from floating above the solution. Use enough solution to completely submerge the feet. Keep the feet cold throughout curing period (at 36° to 40° F, if possible).

After curing, slowly cook or simmer the feet until they are tender. Cook them slowly to keep the skin from parting excessively and the feet from pulling out of shape. Thoroughly chill the cured, cooked feet and pack them in cold, moderately strong vinegar, add spices such as bay leaves or allspice. Use the feet at once or store them in the vinegar.