OLD AND NEW PARIS
Its History, its People, and its Places

BY
H. SUTHERLAND EDWARDS
AUTHOR OF “IDOLS OF THE FRENCH STAGE” “THE GERMANS IN FRANCE” “THE
RUSSIANS AT HOME” ETC. ETC.
VOL. I
WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS
C A S S E L L AND C O M P A N Y LIMITED
LONDON PARIS & MELBOURNE
1893
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTENTS.

[CHAPTER I.]PAGE
PARIS: A GENERAL GLANCE.[1]
[CHAPTER II.]
THE EXPANSION OF PARIS

Lutetia—La Cité—Lutetia taken by Labienus—The Visit of Julian theApostate—Besieged by the Franks—The Norman Invasion—Gradual Expansionfrom the Île de la Cité to the Outer Boulevards—M. Thiers’s Line ofOutworks

[6]
[CHAPTER III.]
THE LEFT BANK AND THE RIGHT.

Paris and London—The Rive Gauche—The Quartier Latin—The Pantheon—TheLuxemburg—The School of Medicine—The School of Fine Arts—The Bohemiaof Paris—The Rive Droite—Paris Proper—The “West End”

[9]
[CHAPTER IV.]
NOTRE DAME.

The Cathedral of Notre Dame, a Temple to Jupiter—Cæsar andNapoleon—Relics in Notre Dame—Its History—Curious Legends—The “NewChurch”—Remarkable Religious Ceremonies—The Place de Grève—The Daysof Sorcery—“Monsieur de Paris”—Dramatic Entertainments—Coronation ofNapoleon

[12]
[CHAPTER V.]
SAINT-GERMAIN-L’AUXERROIS

The Massacre of St. Bartholomew—The Events that preceded it—Catherinede Medicis—Admiral Coligny—“The King-Slayer”—The Signal forthe Massacre—Marriage of the Duc de Joyeuse and Marguerite ofLorraine

[22]
[CHAPTER VI.]
THE PONT-NEUF AND THE STATUE OF HENRI IV.

The Oldest Bridge in Paris—Henri IV.—His Assassination byRavaillac—Marguerite of Valois—The Statue of Henri IV.—TheInstitute—The Place de Grève

[30]
[CHAPTER VII.]
THE BOULEVARDS.

From the Bastille to the Madeleine—BoulevardBeaumarchais—Beaumarchais—The Marriage of Figaro—TheBastille—The Drama in Paris—Adrienne Lecouvreur—Vincennes—The Ducd’Enghien—Duelling—Louis XVI

[43]
[CHAPTER VIII.]
THE BOULEVARDS (continued).

Hôtel Carnavalet—Hôtel Lamoignon—Place Royale—Boulevard duTemple—The Temple—Louis XVII—The Theatres—Astley’s Circus—AttemptedAssassination of Louis Philippe—Trial of Fieschi—The Café Turc—TheCafés—The Folies Dramatiques—Louis XVI. and the Opera—Murder of theDuke of Berri

[67]
[CHAPTER IX.]
THE BOULEVARDS (continued).

The Porte Saint-Martin—Porte Saint-Denis—The Burial Place ofthe French Kings—Funeral of Louis XV.—Funeral of the Count deChambord—Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle—Boulevard Poissonnière—BoulevardMontmartre—Frascati

[95]
[CHAPTER X.]
BOULEVARD AND OTHER CAFÉS.

The Café Littéraire—Café Procope—Café Foy—Bohemian Cafés—CaféMomus—Death of Molière—New Year’s Gifts

[107]
[CHAPTER XI.]
THE BOULEVARDS (continued).

The Opéra Comique of Paris—I Gelosi—The Don Juan ofMolière—Madame Favart—The Saint-Simonians

[115]
[CHAPTER XII.]
THE BOULEVARDS (continued).

La Maison Dorée—Librairie Nouvelle—Catherine II. and theEncyclopædia—The House of Madeleine Guimard

[122]
[CHAPTER XIII.]
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE.

Its History—Louis XV.—Fireworks—The Catastrophe in 1770—Place de laRévolution—Louis XVI.—The Directory

[143]
[CHAPTER XIV.]
THE PLACE VENDÔME.

The Column of Austerlitz—The Various Statues of Napoleon TakenDown—The Church of Saint-Roch—Mlle. Raucourt—Joan of Arc

[155]
[CHAPTER XV.]
THE JACOBIN CLUB.

The Jacobins—Chateaubriand’s Opinion of Them—Arthur Young’sDescriptions—The New Club

[161]
[CHAPTER XVI.]
THE PALAIS ROYAL.

Richelieu’s Palace—The Regent of Orleans—The Duke ofOrleans—Dissipation in the Palais Royal—The Palais National—TheBirthplace of Revolutions

[166]
[CHAPTER XVII.]
THE COMÉDIE FRANÇAISE.

Its History—The Roman Comique—Under Louis XV.—During theRevolution—Hernani

[172]
[CHAPTER XVIII.]
THE NATIONAL LIBRARY AND THE BOURSE.

The “King’s Library”—Francis I. and the Censorship—The ImperialLibrary—The Bourse

[187]
[CHAPTER XIX.]
THE LOUVRE AND THE TUILERIES.

The Louvre—Origin of the Name—The Castle—Francis I.—Catherine deMedicis—The Queen’s Apartments—Louis XIV. and the Louvre—The Museumof the Louvre—The Picture Galleries—The Tuileries—The NationalAssembly—Marie Antoinette—The Palace of Napoleon III.—“PetiteProvence”

[193]
[CHAPTER XX.]
THE CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES AND THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE.

The Champs Élysées—The Élysée Palace—Longchamps—The Bois deBoulogne—The Château de Madrid—The Château de la Muette—The Place del’Étoile

[218]
[CHAPTER XXI.]
THE CHAMP DE MARS AND PARIS EXHIBITIONS.

The Royal Military School of Louis XV.—The National Assembly—ThePatriotic Altar—The Festival of the Supreme Being—OtherFestivals—Industrial Exhibitions—The Eiffel Tower—TheTrocadéro

[229]
[CHAPTER XXII.]
THE HÔTEL DE VILLE AND CENTRAL PARIS.

The Hôtel de Ville—Its History—In 1848—The Communards

[242]
[CHAPTER XXIII.]
THE PALAIS DE JUSTICE.

The Palais de Justice—Its Historical Associations—Disturbances inParis—Successive Fires—During the Revolution—The Administration ofJustice—The Sainte-Chapelle

[250]
[CHAPTER XXIV.]
THE FIRE BRIGADE AND THE POLICE.

The Sapeurs-pompiers—The Prefect of Police—The Garde Républicaine—TheSpy System

[270]
[CHAPTER XXV.]
THE PARIS HOSPITALS.

The Place du Parvis—The Parvis of Notre Dame—The Hôtel-Dieu—Mercier’sCriticisms

[276]
[CHAPTER XXVI.]
CENTRAL PARIS.

The Hôtel de Ville—Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie—Rue Saint-Antoine—TheReformation

[281]
[CHAPTER XXVII.]
CENTRAL PARIS (continued).

Rue de Venise—Rachel—St.-Nicholas-in-the-Fields—The Conservatoire desArts et Métiers—The Gaieté—Rue des Archives—The Mont de Piété—TheNational Printing Office—The Hôtel Lamoignon

[298]
[CHAPTER XXVIII.]
CENTRAL PARIS (continued).

The Rue Saint-Denis—Saint-Leu-Saint-Gilles—GeorgeCadoudal—Saint-Eustache—The Central Markets—The General PostOffice

[311]
[CHAPTER XXIX.]
THE “NATIONAL RAZOR.”

The Rue de l’Arbre Sec—Dr. Guillotin—Dr. Louis—The Guillotine—TheFirst Political Execution

[327]
[CHAPTER XXX.]
THE EXECUTIONER.

The Executioner—His Taxes and Privileges—Monsieur de Paris—Victor ofNîmes

[330]
[CHAPTER XXXI.]
PÈRE-LACHAISE.

The Cemeteries of Clamart and Picpus—Père-Lachaise—LaVillette and Chaumont—The Conservatoire—Rue Laffitte—TheRothschilds—Montmartre—Clichy

[333]
[CHAPTER XXXII.]
PARIS DUELS.

The Legal Institution of the Duel—The Congé de la Bataille—In theSixteenth Century—Jarnac—Famous Duels

[345]
[CHAPTER XXXIII.]
THE STUDENTS OF PARIS.

Paris Students—Their Character—In the Middle Ages—At theRevolution—Under the Directory—In 1814—In 1819—Lallemand—In theRevolution of 1830

[355]
[CHAPTER XXXIV.]
THE RAG-PICKER OF PARIS.

The Chiffonier or Rag-picker—His Methods and Hours of Work—HisCharacter—A Diogenes—The Chiffonier de Paris

[360]
[CHAPTER XXXV.]
THE BOHEMIAN OF PARIS.

Béranger’s Bohemians—Balzac’s Definition—Two Generations—HenriMürger

[365]
[CHAPTER XXXVI.]
THE PARIS WAITER.

The Garçon—The Development of the Type—The Garçon’s Daily Routine—HisAmbitions and Reverses

[369]
[CHAPTER XXXVII.]
THE PARIS COOK.

Brillat Savarin on the Art of Cooking—The Cook and the Roaster—Cookingin the Seventeenth Century—Louis XV.—Mme. de Maintenon

[372]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

[Illustrations have been moved from within paragraphs for ease of reading.
(note of e-text transcriber.)]

Boulevard des Italiens[Frontispiece]
Place de la Concorde[1]
The Left Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame[4]
Right Bank of the Seine, from Notre Dame[5]
On the Boulevards—Corner of Place de l’Opéra[8]
Théâtre Français[9]
A Street Scene[11]
Notre Dame[12]
The Choir Stalls, Notre Dame[13]
Rue du Cloitre[16]
Apsis of Notre Dame[17]
The Leaden Spire, Notre Dame[20]
Gargoyles in the Sacristy, Notre Dame[21]
Church of Saint-Germain-l’Auxerrois[24]
(Map) Principal Streets of Paris[25]
Scene during the Massacre of St. Bartholomew[28]
The Pont-Neuf and the Louvre, from the Quai des Augustins[30]
By the Pont-Neuf[32]
Seine Fishers[32]
View from the Pavilion de Florefacing [33]
The Pont-Neuf and the Mint[33]
Statue of Henri IV. on the Pont-Neuf[36]
The Institute[37]
The Pont-Neuf from the Island[40]
View from the Western Point of the Île de la Cité[41]
Place de la Bastille and Column of July[45]
Junction of Grands Boulevards and Rue and Faubourg Montmartre[48]
The Bastille[49]
The Conquerors of the Bastille[53]
À la Robespierre[56]
A Lady of 1793[56]
A Tricoteuse[56]
Map showing the Extension of Paris[57]
Adrienne Lecouvreur[61]
A Duel in the Bois de Boulogne[64]
The Seine from Notre Damefacing [65]
Recruits[65]
Hôtel Carnavalet[68]
Hôtel Lamoignon[69]
Statue of Louis XIII. in the Place des Vosges[71]
The Place des Vosges, formerly Place Royale[72]
The Arcade in the Place des Vosges[73]
The Winter Circus in the Boulevard des Filles de Calvaire[77]
Louis Philippe[80]
Attempted Assassination of Louis Philippe[81]
A Parisian Café[84]
Place de la République[85]
Frédéric Lemaître[89]
Porte Saint-Martin and the Renaissance Theatre[92]
Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Saint-Martin[93]
Apsis of Church of Saint-Méry, Rue Brisemiche[96]
Notre Damefacing [97]
Entrance to the Faubourg Saint-Denis[97]
Boulevard and Porte Saint-Denis[101]
Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle and the Gymnase Theatre[104]
The Boulevard Montmartre[105]
Entrance to the Théâtre des Variétés, Boulevard Montmartre[109]
Cafés on the Boulevard Montmartre[112]
Molière[113]
Street Coffee Stall[114]
Boulevard des Italiens[116]
The 6th of June; the Last of the Insurrection[121]
Marivaux[124]
Paris in the Seventeenth Century[125]
Rue de la Chaussée d’Antin[128]
View from the Roof of the Opera Housefacing [129]
Mlle. Clairon[129]
View from the Balcony of the Opera[132]
Avenue de l’Opéra[133]
One of the Domes of the Opera House[135]
Eastern Pavilion, Opera House[136]
The Public Foyer, Opera House[137]
Western Pavilion, Opera House[140]
The Staircase of the Opera House[141]
The Madeleine[144]
Interior of the Madeleine[145]
Place de la Concorde[149]
Place de la Concorde, from the Terrace of the Tuileries[152]
Trial of Louis XVI[153]
Top of the Vendôme Column[155]
The Place Vendôme[157]
Rue Castiglione[160]
A First Night at the Comédie Française—The Foyerfacing [161]
Mirabeau[161]
Robespierre[164]
The Palais Royal[165]
Gardens of the Palais Royal[168]
The Palais Royal after the Siege[169]
The Montpensier Gallery, Palais Royal[170]
Entrance to the Comédie Française[172]
The Public Foyer, Comédie Française[173]
The Green Room, Comédie Française[176]
Molière[177]
Corneille[180]
Voltaire[181]
The Committee of the Comédie Française: Alexandre Dumas (the younger) Reading a Play[185]
Behind the Scenes, Comédie Française[186]
Entrance to the National Library in the Rue des Petits Champs[188]
The Bourse[189]
The Apollo Gallery—The Louvrefacing [193]
The Louvre, from the Place du Carrousel[193]
The Old Louvre (Pierre Lescot’s Façade)[195]
The Colonnade of the Louvre[196]
Portion of the Façade of Henri IV.’s Gallery, Louvre[197]
Top of the Marsan Pavilion, Louvre[200]
The Marsan and Flora Pavilions, Louvre, from the Pont-Royal[201]
The Richelieu Pavilion[205]
The Tuileries in the Eighteenth Century[208]
The Terrace, Tuileries Gardens[209]
The Tuileries Gardens[209]
Lion in the Tuileries Gardens[211]
The Chestnuts of the Tuileries[212]
Louis XVI. Stopped at Varennes by Drouet[213]
The Royal Family at Varennes[216]
Monument to Gambetta, Place du Carrousel[217]
The Horses of Marly, Champs Élysées[220]
The Elysée[221]
Saint-Philippe du Roule[221]
The Great Lake, Bois de Boulogne[223]
Avenue du Bois de Boulogne[224]
Arc de Triomphefacing [225]
Avenue des Champs Élysées[225]
Avenue Marigny, Champs Élysées[227]
Fountain in the Champs Élysées[228]
The Champ de Mars, 1889[229]
The Military School, Champ de Mars[232]
General La Fayette[233]
The Palais de l’Industrie, Champs Élysées[236]
View Showing Exhibition of 1889[237]
View from the First Platform of the Eiffel Tower[240]
The Trocadéro[241]
Hôtel de Ville in the Fifteenth Century[244]
Attack on the Hôtel de Ville, 1830[245]
Statue of Étienne Marcel on the Quai Hôtel de Ville[246]
The Municipal Council Chamber, Hôtel de Ville[248]
Île St. Louis[249]
The Quai de l’Horloge[252]
Pont au Change and Palais de Justice[253]
The Clock of the Palais de Justice[255]
Entrance to the Court of Assize[256]
The Palais de Justicefacing [257]
The Palais de Justice and Sainte-Chapelle[257]
The Façade of the Old Palais de Justice[260]
The Salle des Pas Perdus[261]
Police Carriages[263]
The Conciergerie, Palais de Justice[264]
The Sainte-Chapelle[265]
The Lower Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle[267]
The Upper Chapel of the Sainte-Chapelle[268]
The Tribunal of Commerce[269]
A Pompier[272]
A Guardian of the Peace[273]
An Orderly of the Garde de Paris[274]
A Gendarme[277]
Principal Court of the Hôtel-Dieu[280]
Rue de Rivoli[281]
Façade of the Church of St. Gervais and St. Protais; and the Apsis, from the Rue des Barres[284]
Tower of Saint-Jacques-la-Boucherie[285]
Hôtel de Beauvais[286]
Church of St. Louis and St. Paul[288]
Rue de Rivoli and Hôtel de Villefacing [289]
Rue Grenier-sur-l’eau[289]
The Pont-Marie[292]
Rue Saint Louis-en-l’Île[293]
Pont au Change, Place du Châtelet, and Boulevard de Sebastopol[296]
The Palmier Fountain, Place du Châtelet[297]
Rue de Venise[299]
St. Nicholas-in-the-Fields[300]
The Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers[301]
The Vertbois Tower and Fountain[303]
The Gaieté Theatre[304]
In the Temple Market[305]
The Temple Market[305]
Sixteenth Century Cloisters, Rue des Billettes[307]
Palace of the National Archives[308]
Hôtel de Hollande[309]
Turret at Corner of Rues Vieille du Temple and Francs Bourgeois[309]
Rue de Birague, leading to the Place des Vosges[311]
Fountain of the Innocents[312]
Saint-Eustache[313]
A Market Scene[315]
An Auction Sale of Poultry in the Central Market[316]
Rue Rambuteau in the Early Morning[317]
On the Way to the Central Markets[319]
The Fish Market[320]
Interior of the Mont de Piété, Rue Capronfacing [321]
The General Post Office[321]
The Poste Restante[321]
The Public Hall, General Post Office[323]
The Telephone Room at the General Post Office[324]
Place des Victoires[325]
Rue de la Vrillière[328]
In Père-Lachaise[333]
Parc des Buttes Chaumont[336]
Montmartre[340]
The Synagogue in the Rue de la Victoire[341]
St. Peter’s Church, Montmartre[343]
The Bells of St. Peter’s[343]
The New Municipal Reservoir and the Church of the Sacred Heart, Montmartre[344]
The Caulaincourt Bridge, Montmartre[344]
In the Parc Monceau[345]
Diana of Poitiers[348]
Marshal Ney[352]
The Race-course, Longchampsfacing [353]
Camille Desmoulins[356]
The Polytechnic School[357]
Notre Dame from the Pont Saint-Louis[360]
A Rag-picker[361]
A Rag-picker[364]
The Boulevard Poissonière[368]
Selling Goats[369]
The Bird Market[373]
Madame de Maintenon[375]

{Page 1}