FROM
THE INDUS TO THE TIGRIS

A NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY THROUGH THE COUNTRIES
OF BALOCHISTAN, AFGHANISTAN, KHORASSAN
AND IRAN, IN 1872

TOGETHER WITH
A SYNOPTICAL GRAMMAR AND VOCABULARY OF
THE BRAHOE LANGUAGE

AND A RECORD OF
THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS AND ALTITUDES ON THE
MARCH FROM THE INDUS TO THE TIGRIS

BY
HENRY WALTER BELLEW, C.S.I.
SURGEON BENGAL STAFF CORPS
Author of a “Journal of a Mission to Afghanistan in 1867-58,” and
a “Grammar and Dictionary of the Pukkhto Language.”

LONDON
TRÜBNER & CO., 57 & 59 LUDGATE HILL
1874

[All rights of publication reserved]

PREFACE.

The steady progress of Russian conquest in Turkistan during the past half-century, and, during late years, the rapid advance of her frontiers in the direction of India, have raised the States of Central Asia to a position of importance in the eyes of European politicians higher than they ever before occupied.

The accounts published from time to time by venturesome travellers in those regions have informed us of the barbarism and bigotry of their peoples—of the anarchy and weakness of their Governments—and of the growing decay and approaching dissolution of the polity that holds them together by the bonds of a common religion and common interest. And now the military operations against Khiva at present in course of prosecution by Russia, whilst opening up that country to the influences of European civilisation, promise to unfold to that power a field of enterprise that must, I believe, culminate in her paramount ascendancy over all the region draining to the valley of the Oxus. This is a prospect full of the weightiest moment to ourselves in India, and one that furnishes matter for the gravest consideration of our statesmen. Much has been already written on this subject from different points of view, and much remains to be written; and doubtless the public journals will keep alive the discussion of the question. But let us be careful lest, while straining at the gnat of Yárkand, we swallow the camel of Herat.

Since the region intervening between the Asiatic possessions of Russia and England now claims the attention of the several Governments concerned, and is by the current of progressing events brought prominently before the notice of the politicians of Europe generally, any recent information regarding these countries cannot fail to prove of interest to the general reader. With this conviction, therefore, I venture to set before the public an account of the incidents and experiences of a journey made across this region during last year—from the Indus to the Tigris.

In explanation of all shortcomings as to matter and defects as to style, I have to remind the reader that the narrative has been written at odd hours, between the duties of an onerous charge in the principal frontier station of India, without leisure for generalisation, or opportunity for reference to authorities.

Further, I am constrained by the force of circumstances to commit my manuscript to the care of the publisher, without the advantage of correcting the proof-sheets in their passage through the press.

H. W. B.

Peshawar, 18th April 1873.

CONTENTS.

PAGES
INTRODUCTION.
Appointment of Mission to Sistan and Tehran—Influence of British and Russian civilisation—Historical Associations—The “sick man” of Asia—Physical features of the region traversed—Climate and inhabitants [1-17]
CHAPTER I.
Departure from Multán—The Chenáb and the Indus—Tria juncta in uno—Interesting fact for naturalists—Shikárpúr—Jacobabad—A plundered káfila—Afghan effrontery—Interesting rencontre—Barshori—Sinjarani—Odhána—False alarm—Gandáva—Kotra—Disorderly baggage ponies—Pír Chhatta—Muhammadan credulity [18-39]
CHAPTER II.
The Míloh Pass—Nah-langa Tangí—The Khánzai Brahoe—Pír Lákha—The Pír and the dragon—Scene of assassination of Sherdil Khán—Khozdár—Roadside memorials—The Brahoe—Brahoe gratitude—The Záwah defile—Scanty supplies [40-71]
CHAPTER III.
Súráb to Calát—Reception by the Khán—The Court of Calát—Description of Calát—Mundi Hájí—An efficacious charm—Our hostess and the mirror—Mastung—Military honours—Nishpá Pass—Shál Kot—Native custom [72-100]
CHAPTER IV.
The Kákarrs—The Náib and the Malik—The Afghan Commissioner—The Peshín valley—The Tarins—A numerous relationship—Kojak Pass—Topographical survey—Barghanah Pass—Sháh Ahmad, Durrani—Wool exports—Sardár Mír Afzal Khán—Afghan chivalry—A startling object—American clocks [101-132]
CHAPTER V.
Kandahar—Afghan cookery—Visit to a gold-mine—Process of extraction—Antique porphyry bowl—City of Kandahar—Mausoleum of Ahmad Sháh—Discontent of the inhabitants—Oppression of the Government—Pyrotechnical display—Travellers’ notes—The Saggid’s experience—Departure—Sardár Núr Muhammad Khán—Kandahar to Ballakhan [133-166]
CHAPTER VI.
Salt-pits—The Saggid on the English press—Búst—Ancient ruins—The Argandáb—Extensive jangal—Hazárjuft—Afghan stolidity—The Helmand—Khanishín—Abdullah Khán—Colonel Táj Muhammad [167-202]
CHAPTER VII.
Rúdbár—The Garmsel—Ján Beg—Change of post-route—The plain of Sistan—An Afghan welcome—Sardár Ibráhím Khán, the murderer of Dr Forbes—Sardár Ahmad Khán and Mardán Khán—Sharíf Khán—A primitive ferry—Nasírabad—Windmills [203-236]
CHAPTER VIII.
Meeting with Sir F. Goldsmid—Banjár—Ruins of Pesháwarán—History of Sistan—Its limits—Watershed—Language [237-271]
CHAPTER IX.
Kol Márút—Mythical inscription—Khyrabad—Lásh—News of Lord Mayo’s death—Calá Koh—Singular acoustic phenomenon—Duroh—Husenabad—The Sarbesha plateau—Birjand—Trade and products—District of Gháyn—Historical sketch [272-308]
CHAPTER X.
Birjand to Ghíbk—Depopulation of inhabitants—Sihdih—Persian rights of perquisite—Gháyn—The Hájí’s advice—Change of route—A noisy dispute—Precautions against the Turkmans—Dashtí Pyáz—A harmless fright—Bijistan—Widespread suffering—Persian veracity—Persian cruelty [309-357]
CHAPTER XI.
Mashhad—Procession through the city—Interviews with the Prince-Governor—Gratifying reception—Description of the city—Its industry and trade—Plain of Mashhad—District of Nishabor—Untrustworthiness of Persians—Sabzwár—An old institution—Pilgrims—Motley spectacle—Shahrúd—An old acquaintance [358-397]
CHAPTER XII.
Treatment of Persian soldiers—Lásjird—Our Mirakhor—His savoir faire—The “Portals of delight”—Tehran—Destitution of the inhabitants—Arrangements for return—Shukrullah Beg—A retrospect—Interview with the Governor of Kirmánshah—Effects of the famine—Frightful scenes—Hamadán—Kangawár—Besitun—Kirmánshah [398-439]
CHAPTER XIII.
An enormous caravan—The Khaleva tribe—Karriud—Zuháb—Difficulties as to passport and escort—Their removal—Marauding Khaleva—Turko-Persian frontier—Quarantine—Sad disappointment—Bukhariot pilgrims—Their opinion of Russian influence in Central Asia—Flight of locusts—A captive chief—The hermit and his disciple—Attack by Arab robbers—Their repulse—Baghdad—Down the Tigris [440-472]
APPENDIX.
A.—Synoptical Grammar and Vocabulary of the Brahoe Language [473-493]
B.—Record of Meteorological Observations and Altitudes on the March from the Indus to the Tigris, through Balochistan, Afghanistan, Sistan, Khorassan, and Iran [494-496]