FOREWORD

Webster defines a vista as "a view, especially a distant view, through or between intervening objects." If I were literal-minded, I suppose I should either abandon my title or make this book a series of descriptions of Sacré Coeur, crowning Montmartre, as you see the church from dark gray to ghostly white, according to the day, at the end of apartment-house-lined streets from the allée of the Observatoire, from the Avenue Montaigne, from the rue de Solférino, and from the Rue Taitbout. I ought to be writing about the vistas, than which no other city possesses a more beautiful and varied array, that feature the Arc de Triomphe, the Trocadéro, the Tour Eiffel, the Grande Roue, the Invalides, the Palais Bourbon, the Madeleine, the Opéra, Saint-Augustin, Val de Grâce and the Panthéon.

But may not one's vistas be memories, with the years acting as "intervening objects"? Has not distance as much to do with time as with space? Vistas in words can no more convey the impression of things seen than Lester Hornby's sketches. If you want a substitute for Baedeker, please do not read this book! If you want a substitute for photographs, you will be disappointed in Lester's sketches.

The monuments of Paris, ticketed by name and historical events to tourists whose eyes have had hardly more time than the camera, known by photographs to prospective tourists who dream of things as yet unseen, are interwoven into the canvas of my life. The Gare Saint-Lazaire, for instance, is the place where I was lost once as a kid, where I have had to say goodbye to my husband starting on a long and perilous journey, and over which I have seen a Zeppelin floating. Since Louis Philippe was long before my time, the obelisk always has been in the Place de la Concorde. And when you pass it, your eyes, meeting the Arc de Triomphe at the end of the Champs-Elysées, the Carrousel at the end of the Tuileries, the Madeleine at the end of the Rue Royale and the Palais Bourbon at the end of the bridge, record vistas as natural, as familiar as your mother's face in the doorway of the childhood home. Where else could the Arc de Triomphe be? Of course it looks like that!

I shall not attempt to apologize for the autobiography that comes to the front in my Paris vistas. Perhaps my own insignificance and unimportance and the lack of interest on the part of the public in what I do and think—impressed upon me by more than one critic of earlier volumes—should deter me from telling how I lived and brought up my family in Paris. But it is the only way I can tell how I feel about Paris. Whether the end justifies the means the reader must decide for himself.

H. D. G.

Paris, August, 1919.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

[(1887-1888)]
CHAPTER PAGE
[I]Childhood Vistas[3]
[(1899)]
[II]At Sixteen[15]
[(1908)]
[III]A Honeymoon Promise[31]
[(1909-1910)]
[IV]The Promise Fulfilled[41]
[V]The Pension in the Rue Madame[51]
[VI]Lares and Penates in the Rue Servandoni[63]
[VII]Gold in the Chimney[76]
[VIII]At the Bibliothèque Nationale[86]
[IX]Emilie in Monologue[97]
[X]Hunting Apaches[104]
[XI]Driftwood[112]
[XII]Some of Our Guests[119]
[XIII]Walks at Nightfall[132]
[XIV]After-dinner Coffee[142]
[XV]Repos Hebdomadaire[148]
[XVI]"Many Waters Cannot Quench Love"[154]
[XVII]Real Paris Shows[167]
[XVIII]The Spell of June[181]
[(1913)]
[XIX]Childhood Vistas for a New Generation[193]
[XX]The Problem of Housing[201]
[(1914)]
[XXI]"Nach Paris!"[211]
[(1914-1915)]
[XXII]At Home in the Whirlwind[223]
[XXIII]Sauvons Les Bébés[231]
[XXIV]Uncomfortable Neutrality[243]
[(1917)]
[XXV]How We Kept Warm[253]
[XXVI]April Sixth[262]
[XXVII]The Vanguard of the A. E. F.[269]
[(1918)]
[XXVIII]The Darkest Days[277]
[XXIX]The Gothas and Big Bertha[294]
[XXX]The Bird Charmer of the Tuileries[307]
[XXXI]The Quatorze of Testing[313]
[XXXII]The Liberation of Lille[321]
[XXXIII]Armistice Night[326]
[XXXIV]Royal Visitors[341]
[XXXV]The First Peace Christmas[348]
[(1919)]
[XXXVI]Plotting Peace[361]
[XXXVII]La Vie Chère[373]
[XXXVIII]The Revenge of Versailles[378]
[XXXIX]The Quatorze of Victory[385]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The Invalides from Pont Alexandre IIIFrontispiece
FACING
PAGE
The Madeleine Flower Market[16]
Looking up the Avenue de l'Opéra[32]
The Rue de Vaugirard by the Luxembourg[64]
Château de la Reine Blanche: Rue des Gobelins[88]
Where stood the walls of old Lutetia[120]
The Panthéon from the Rue Soufflot[144]
Hôtel de Ville from the Pont d'Arcole[168]
Market day in the Rue de Seine[184]
The first snow in the Luxembourg[224]
A passage through the Louvre[256]
In an Old Quarter[272]
Saint-Germain l'Auxerrois[304]
Old Paris is disappearing[320]
The Grand Palais[336]
Spire of the Saint-Chapelle from the Place Saint-Michel[368]

1887-1888