SPAIN IN 1830.
BY
HENRY D. INGLIS,
AUTHOR OF “SOLITARY WALKS THROUGH MANY LANDS;” “A JOURNEY
THROUGH NORWAY,” &c. &c.
IN TWO VOLS.
——————
VOL. II.
——————
LONDON:
WHITTAKER, TREACHER, AND CO., AVE-MARIA LANE.
———
1831.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY S. MANNING AND CO.,
London-house-yard, St. Paul’s.
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
| [CHAPTER XII. —— JOURNEY FROM MADRID THROUGH LA MANCHA,ACROSS THE SIERRA MORENA, AND BYCORDOVA TO SEVILLE.] | |
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| Different Modes of Travelling to Seville; Journey to Aranjuez;the Gardens of Aranjuez; Ocana; a Spanish Supper;Polinario, the ci-devant Robber; History of hisChange of Life; La Mancha, and Journey to Manzanarez;Madridlejos and its Population; Husbandry of LaMancha; Puerto Lapiche, and References to DonQuixotte; Manzanarez; Journey to the foot of the SierraMorena; Consolacion, and its miserable People; Val dePeñas and its Wine, and Details; Explanation of a Passagein Don Quixotte; the Venta de Cardenas, and theSierra Morena; Mountain Images; Journey on mulebackacross the Sierra Morena; the New Settlements, andtheir Condition; Descent into Andalusia; Novel Prospects;Baylen; a Defence against Mosquitos; PicturesqueViews; Anduxar; Journey from Anduxar toCordova; the Plain of the Guadalquivir; extraordinaryAloes, and Uses of the Aloe; charming Situation of Cordova;its former Splendour and present Wretchedness;Lead Mines; the Mosque; Journey to Seville; StrikingViews; Political Sentiments of a Barber of Ecija; Carmona;View of Seville, and Arrival. | [1] |
| [CHAPTER XIII. —— SEVILLE.] | |
| Madrid not the sole Capital of Spain; Peculiarities of Seville;Moorish Customs; the Streets; the Population; Mannerof Living in Andalusia; Society; Morals; the Archbishop;the Dean; the Convents; frequency of Murderin Andalusia, and its Causes; Serenading; Superstition inSeville, and examples of it; extraordinary Facts; thePaseo; Andalusian Women; Oracion; Las Delicias;Orange-Groves; Details respecting the Orange Trade ofSeville; the Cathedral; the Capuchin Convent; La Caridad,and Murillo’s Pictures; Private Collections; the Alcazarand its Gardens; the Tobacco Manufactory; RomanRemains; Seville as a Residence; Prices of Provisions;Descent of the Guadalquivir, and its Banks; Optic Deception;St. Lucar; Night Journey; Port St. Mary; theBay of Cadiz, and the City.6 | [4] |
| [CHAPTER XIV. —— XERES, AND ITS WINES.] | |
| Journey to Xeres; the Vineyards, and their Produce; Amountof Export, and Official Tables for Ten Years; averageExport and Price; Increase in the Trade; the Xeres Grape;Details respecting the Manufacture of Sherry; PaleSherry and Brown Sherry; a curious Sherry; Amontillado;Adulterated Sherries, Inferior Sherries, and Low-pricedSherries; the Xeres Cellars; Varieties in Tasteof Sherries; Knowledge of the Merchants; Managementof the Vineyards; Wine Houses in Xeres and in Port St.Mary; Price of Sherry in Cadiz; Port St. Mary; theTheatre, and Liberal Opinions; Strength of the LiberalParty in this Neighbourhood; Return to Cadiz by Land;Isla; the Tongue of Cadiz | [98] |
| [CHAPTER XV. —— CADIZ, AND JOURNEY OVERLAND TO GIBRALTAR.] | |
| Peculiarities of Cadiz; a Fête; the Ladies of Cadiz; curiousWhims and Usages; Morals; the Religious Bodies; Murillo’slast Picture; Mr. Brackenbury’s Pictures; Remarksupon Consular Remuneration; the two Cathedrals; effectsupon the Commercial Prosperity of Cadiz, from its havingbeen created a Free Port; State of the Road between Cadizand Gibraltar; Departure from Cadiz; Chiclana; MorningScenes; a Venta; the African Coast; Wild Scenery; Dangersof the Road; Suspicious Circumstance; Tariffa; anotherVenta; Journey through the Mountains to Algesiras;View of Gibraltar; Arrival. | [119] |
| [CHAPTER XVI. —— GIBRALTAR. MALAGA.] | |
| Picture of the Street Population of Gibraltar; the Constructionof Houses favourable to Epidemic; Scenery, union of Natureand Art; the Agremens of Gibraltar as a MilitaryStation; high Prices in Gibraltar; the Alameda; the Excavations;Walk to the Summit; the Monkeys; MagnificentView; Sunday in Gibraltar; Trade; the Epidemic;Extortion at the Passport Office; Voyage to Malaga; Viewof the City from the Sea; a strange Usage; Pictures ofIdleness; facility of Living in Malaga; Bad Characterof the Population; an Anecdote; Public Edifices; Society;Morals; Italian Opera; curious Scenes; a perilous Situation;the Wines of Malaga; Produce, and Export ofWines; Malaga Sherry; Export of Fruits; the Raisins ofMalaga; Trade with England; Excursions in the Neighbourhood;Water-Coolers; Prices of Provisions | [156] |
| [CHAPTER XVII. —— JOURNEY FROM MALAGA TO GRANADA.—GRANADA.] | |
| Different Routes to Granada; Ascent of the Malaga Mountains;an Anecdote illustrative of Spanish Morals; Pictureof a Venta and its Inmates; Night Arrangements, beautifulsituation of Loxa; the Venta de Casin; first View ofGranada; Reflections; the Situation of Granada and itsVega; the Alhambra; St. Michael’s Mount, and its Singularities;excavated Dwellings; View from the Mount; extraordinaryChanges in Temperature; a Fire in Granada,and the curious means resorted to for extinguishing it; Superstition;the Cathedral; the Convents; the Archbishop;Husbandry in the Vega of Granada; State of Agriculture;the Duke of Wellington’s Estates; Effects of the Loss ofthe Colonies; the Paseos of Granada; the Population; theMarket; Usages; the Italian Opera. | [201] |
| [CHAPTER XVIII. —— JOURNEY FROM GRANADA TO MURCIA.—MURCIA.] | |
| The best mode of travelling this Road; Precautions necessary;the Village of Huetor, and its Venta; Aspect of theCountry; an Encounter; Diezma; singular Scenery;Guadix; Journey from Guadix; excessive Cold; Baza,and its Valley; Cullar de Baza; excavated Dwellings;a probable intention of Robbery; Chirivel; DesolateCountry on the confines of Murcia; Puerto; the Vale ofLorca; Dress of the Murcian Peasantry; Lorca Market;the Cathedral, and Liberality of the Archbishop of Carthagena;Totana; a Dance; Approach to Murcia, and extraordinarybeauty of its Vale; Murcia, its Streets and Population;Magnificent View from the summit of the CathedralTower; Paseos and Environs; a ridiculous Observance;Prices of Provisions; Manufacture of Salt-Petre; SilkManufacture; Agriculture. | [248] |
| [CHAPTER XIX. —— JOURNEY FROM MURCIA TO ALICANT.—ALICANT;AND JOURNEY FROM ALICANT TO SAN FELIPEAND VALENCIA.] | |
| Winter in England and in Spain; Journey from Murcia;Orihuela and its Huerta; Inhabitants, and Superstition;a Muleteer’s Story; La Granja, and effects of the Earthquakeof 1829; Elche, and its Forest of Palms; Commerce;the Date; arrival at Alicant; magnificent Houses; Situationof Alicant; the Feast of the Patron Saint; peculiarityin Alicant Society; Political Restrictions on Society;the Trade and Exports of Alicant; Barilla, the Huerta;an extraordinary Law-suit; Dangerous Road to SanFelipe; Montforte, Novilda, and Elda; the Feast ofthe Concepcion Purissima; Sax, and Villena; Recontrewith Moorish Physicians; Fuente de Higuera; Soldiers’Opinions; charming Scenes; the Algarrobo; arrival atSan Felipe; magnificent Moorish Remains; Relics ofMoorish Customs; Journey to Valencia; Conversationwith a Dominican Friar; the Plain of Valencia; Springand Autumn in Spain; arrival at Valencia. | [283] |
| [CHAPTER XX. —— VALENCIA.—JOURNEY TO BARCELLONA.] | |
| Bridges, River, Convents; prevalence of Religious Bigotry;Moorish Remains; Beggars, and the cause of their abundancein Valencia; the Archbishop; the University; Academyof Fine Arts; the Cathedral and its Tower; theplain of Valencia and its productions; Rice Grounds andtheir produce; produce of Silk, and Silk Trade; exportof Fruit; prices of Provisions; Pictures; Valencia Society;the Ladies of Valencia; the port of Valencia; Paseos;Valencia Tiles; Journey to Murviedro, (the ancient Saguntum);Convento de los Reyes; Murviedro, its Fortress,and Ruins of Saguntum; an Arrest; a visit from theAlcalde; Journey to Tarragona; pleasing Scenes; Catalunia;Catalunian industry and its causes; Tarragona, itsAntiquities and Cathedral; Provincial Dialects; sorting ofNuts, and the Nut trade; Journey to Barcellona, andarrival. | [327] |
| [CHAPTER XXI. —— BARCELLONA—JOURNEY TO THE FRONTIER.] | |
| General Character of Barcellona, and its Population; Paseos,Ramparts, and Fortifications; the Conde de España; hisPolicy; Interview with the Conde; his Character andGovernment; Anecdotes of his Government; PoliticalFeeling in Barcellona; Churches and Convents; the Opera;Monjuich; Barcellonetta; Decrease of Trade with England,and its Causes; General Trade of Barcellona; an Execution;the Priesthood and the People; a Miracle in 1827;Prices of Provisions; Visit to Monserrat; Journey fromBarcellona to the Frontier; Delightful Scenery; Proofsof Catalunian Industry; Gerona Figueras; the Pyrennees;Reflexions. | [365] |