LOBSTERS, SCALLOPS, CRABS, AND FISHES.

Every inch an American is the Homarus Americanus. There are not so many inches of him as there used to be, but that makes him none the less precious. The Pilgrim lobsters "five or six feet long," ascribed to New York Bay in the days of Olaus Magnus, are now classed as a myth, but four-foot lobsters (measured from the tip of the claws to the end of the tail) have been caught. Such a giant weighs about thirty-four pounds.

The American lobster was originally found only on the eastern coast of North America. These lobster grounds some seven thousand miles, including the curves of the shore, were the finest the world has ever seen. In Canada alone a hundred million lobsters have been captured in a year.

In one respect the lobster differs strangely from other creatures of sea and land. Like the eel, he is a scavenger of the deep, but while the eel is often offensive to the taste because of this feeding habit, the lobster is always sweet. "Nothing could be more offensive to the human nostril," writes Dr. Francis Hobart Herrick,[23] "than the netted balls of slack-salted, semi-decomposing herring, which are commonly used as bait on the coast and islands of Maine, but by the wonderful chemical processes which are continually going on in the laboratory of its body, the lobster is able to transmute such products of organic decay into the most delicate and palatable flesh."

Were it not for this alchemistic marvel the most plutocratic restaurants in the United States, especially those which cater to the persons who sup after the theater, would never have become known as Lobster Palaces. The lobster served in these places, plain boiled, broiled, à la Newburg, and in other ways, is one of those characteristic American foods which foreign epicures not only envy but enjoy, though they cannot have our crustaceans as fresh as we do.

It has been well said that "the story of the lobster in its progress from the fisherman's pots on the Maine coast to the grills and silver chafing-dishes on Broadway is the whole story in miniature of the high cost of living under an artificial economic condition." The lobsterman gets a little over ten cents a pound. "The wholesaler doubles the price, the retailer trebles it, and in the end the restaurant-keeper marks it up 1,000 per cent. above the first cost, charging patrons $1.50 a portion for what the lobsterman was paid a tenth of that sum."

To this extortion I, for one, refuse to submit. In the market you can buy a lobster for one quarter to one-third the price charged in most restaurants. You can make sure he is alive—never buy a dead lobster, though they say he is safe to eat if his tail is curled and springs back when pulled. To kill him by plunging him in boiling water may seem cruel, but is no more so than other ways, and is certainly infinitely less so than the usual way—which should be forbidden—of letting him perish slowly in a barrel, or on ice.

Canned lobster is a food a wise man avoids, though, to be sure, he runs perhaps no greater risk in eating it than in consuming many other things, tinned or untinned. Millions of dollars' worth of canned lobsters, crabs, and salmon are eaten every year.

A new American delicacy hails from Canada: lobster rarebit, a compound of certain parts of the lobster which had previously been thrown away as waste by the canners. The annual output of canned lobster by the Eastern Provinces of Canada now amounts to about ten million cans, worth about $3,000,000. Lobster rarebit, which is said to be a highly appetizing delicacy, easily digested and nourishing may, it is believed, in time equal the money value of canned lobsters. Consul Frank Deedmeyer, of Charlottetown, gave these details at the time when lobster rarebit was first introduced:

Canned lobster, as known to the trade, consists of the meat taken from the claws and the tail. The whole of the body proper is now rejected by the packers, and it has heretofore been used in the maritime Provinces of Canada as a fertilizer. In the rejected portion is found a crescent-shaped meaty layer to which the tail is attached and the liver. Lobster rarebit is a compound of this meaty layer, of the liver, and of the roe, to which some spice is added. The first named of the components used is the fattest part of the crustacean; the liver, glandular, is large and retains a high percentage of bile. The number of eggs found in a lobster is estimated from 5,000 to 40,000, according to size. The three ingredients are mixed in these proportions: Six-tenths meat, three-tenths liver, and one-tenth roe.

While the efforts to propagate the Atlantic lobster have met with scant success on the Pacific Coast there are other marine delicacies to console those who dwell on the shore from Southern California to Washington and British Columbia; among them the abalone of Catalina, which makes delicious soup, the razor clam and monster specimens of other clams in Washington waters, oysters, huge crabs, and above all, crawfish.

ALL POTATOES SERVED WILL
BE CHARGED FOR

MONDAY, JANUARY 6, 1913

SOUPS

Mock turtle	30
Chicken, creole	25
Scotch broth	25
Cream of asparagus	25
Consomme, duchesse	25
Paysanne	25
Tomato	25
Mutton	25
Consomme, hot or cold	25
Consomme, cup	15
Oyster	25
Clam chowder	25

FISH READY

Boiled live codfish, oyster sauce 40

OYSTERS

Lynnhavens	30
Blue Points
Buzzards Bays
Cotults
On the shell	25
Oyster cocktail	30
Fried in batter	50
Pan roast	40
Roast in shell	40
Escaloped in shell	40
Stewed	30
Fried	40
Box stew	40
Astor House oyster flip	40
Au gratin	50
Pickled	30
Steamed	40
Broiled	40

CLAMS

Little-Neck clams stewed	30
Little-Neck clams steamed	35
Little-Neck clam cocktail	30
Little-Neck clams roasted	40
Little-Neck clams fried	40
Little-Neck clams on shell	25
Clam broth	25
Clam fritters	40
Soft shell clams, steamed	35

SHELL FISH

Plain lobster	90
Lobster croquettes	75
Deviled lobster	75
Lobster à la Newburg	1 00
Broiled lobster	1 00
Baked lobster, stuffed	75

CHICKEN PATTY	40	OYSTER PATTY	35
FRIED SCALLOPS	50	WITH BACON	60
DEEP SEA SCALLOPS WITH BACON			50

ENTREES

Beef a la mode, bourgeoise	40
Fricassee of veal with mushrooms	50
Whole spring chicken en casserole, asparagus tips	1 50
Irish stew with vegetables	40
Loin of fresh pork, apple sauce	50
Lobster patties, Maryland	60
Calf's head, vinaigrette	50
Apple fritters, rum sauce	30

ROAST

Beef	50
Leg of mutton	40
Roast beef sandwich, hot	45
Lamb, mint sauce	75
Suckling pig, apple sauce	50
Filet of beef	70
Ham, Champagne sauce	50
Turkey, cranberry sauce	65
Philadelphia chicken, half	75
Pork, apple sauce	50

BOILED

Corned beef and cabbage	40
Mutton, caper sauce	40

VEGETABLES AND RELISHES

Fried sweet potatoes	20
Potatoes, boiled	10
Potatoes, baked	10
Potatoes, mashed	10
Potatoes, julienne	20
Potatoes, French fried	15
Onions, boiled	15
Spinach	20
Macaroni, plain	15
Macaroni, au gratin	25
Macaroni, napolitaine	20
Macaroni, à la Montgelas	30
Olives	20
New string beans	30
Stewed tomatoes	15
Beets	15
Fried eggplant	30
Cold slaw	20
Radishes	10
Celery	25
French peas, naturel	30
French string beans	30
Succotash	20
Mashed turnips	10
Cabbage	15
Cauliflower 30 au gratin	40
French artichokes	50
Canned asparagus	30
Canned Lima beans	25
Canned sweet corn	20
Canned green peas	25
Canned string beans	25
Fonds d'artichauts farcis	75
Pin-money pickles	10
Pickled onions	20
Pickled English walnuts	25
Chow chow	10
Stuffed mangoes	15
Chili sauce	10
Chutney sauce	15

Cigars Served in Sealed Envelopes with Price Marked Thereon

TO ORDER

Small steak	60
Sirloin steak	1 10
Extra sirloin steak	2 00
Small tenderloin steak	60
Porterhouse steak	1 50
Squab guinea-hen	1 75
half	90
English mutton chop	50
Mutton chops	40
Sweetbreads	75
Philadelphia chicken broiled, half	75
Squab	75
Jumbo squab	90
Stuffed squab	1 00

COLD

Roast beef	50
Ham	40
Pork	40
Corned beef	40
Tongue	40
Lamb	75
Roast turkey	60
Half roast chicken	75
Veal	40
Leg of mutton	40
Baked pork and beans	35
Pate de foie-gras	1 00
Lamb's tongue	40
Sardines	40
Crackers and milk	20
Crackers and half and half	30
Crackers and cream	40
Rice and milk, bowl	25
Rice and cream, bowl	40
Graham wafers and milk	25
Graham wafers half and half	35

SALADS

Lobster	75
Chicken	60
Celery	40
Potato	25
Chicory	40
Watercress	30
Shrimp	50
Spanish or Bermuda onion	30
Lettuce	25
Romaine	25
Cucumber	25
Tomato	25
Escarole	40
Mixed (2) kinds 40 (3)	50

PUDDINGS AND PIES

English plum pudding, hard and brandy sauce	25
Apple tapioca pudding, claret sauce	15
Steamed plum dumpling, rum sauce	15
Peach pie	15
Pumpkin pie	15
Apple pie	15
Boston cream puffs	10
Mince pie	20
Cold corn starch pudding	15
Hot or cold rice pudding	15
Snow pudding	15

SWEET DISHES

Rice cake	10
Wine cake	10
Wine cake with ice cream	25
Cream cake	10
Charlotte russe	15
Cream meringue	15
Macaroon glace	30
Meringue glacee	25
Meringue panachee	30
Ice cream, strawberry	20
Ice cream, coffee	20
Ice cream, vanilla	20
Ice cream, chocolate	20
Ice cream, French	25
Ice cream, Neapolitan	25
Biscuit Tortoni	30
Nesselrode	30
Lemon water ice	20
Roman punch	25
Siberian punch	25
Blanc mange	15
Honey in comb	20
Currant jelly	20
Farina jelly with cream	20
Champagne jelly	25
Soft vanilla custard	15
Soft vanilla custard frozen	25
Cup custard	15
Brandy peaches	50
Bar-le-Duc jelly	40
Banana jelly	20
Brandy jelly	20
Orange jelly	20
Tarts	10

CHEESE

Swiss	15
Cream	20
Camembert	20
Roquefort	25
Imperial	15
Neufchatel	15
English	15
Brie	20

FRUIT

Grapefruit 40 half	25
Malaga grapes	25
Concord grapes	25
Baked apples & cream, each	15
Oranges, each	10
Apples, each	10
Bananas, each	10
Apple sauce	15
Pear	10
Stewed prunes	15
Stewed rhubarb	15
Preserved figs	30
with cream	40

TEA, COFFEE ETC.

Cup of coffee	10
with cream	15
Pot of coffee	25
Demi-tasse coffee	10
Pot of chocolate	25
Pot of cocoa	25
Cup of tea	10
Pot of green tea	20
Pot of Oolong tea	20
Pot of Japan tea	20
Pot of English breakfast tea	20
Pots of tea with cream	25
Glass of milk	10
Glass of cream	20
Buttermilk	10

Lunch Bill of Fare of a Popular New York Restaurant

In Oregon, the crawfish abounds in creeks and rivers, varying in size with the volume of the river. One of my favorite amusements as a boy used to be to sit on the bank of a creek taking care of several lines, to the ends of which were tied pieces of meat. No net was needed; the crustaceans were so abundant and so hungry that they refused to let go when lifted out of the water, and often I landed six or more fastened to the same piece of meat. Our favorite picnics were those for which we took along no food—only a kettle and a handful of salt. The crawfish did the rest. They are more tender and succulent than lobsters, and even more delicate in flavor.

St. Louis disputes with Portland the honor of being the greatest crawfish-eating center in the United States. The Mississippi River crawfish has made St. Louis famous among epicures. Until a few years ago, the "Republic" of that city informs us, "the waters around St. Louis on every side fairly swarmed with this fresh-water relation of the lobster. Every pond, slough, and back water was full of them. All the creeks and pools were their homes. Their little mud 'chimneys' dotted the creek bottoms and lined the banks of the ponds and sloughs. Hundreds of joyous St. Louisans struck out for the open on every holiday, armed with a pole, a few pieces of liver, and a dip net, bent on their capture. They caught so many that they brought them in by the sackful. Thousands of the little crustaceans were eaten every day of the season. From April until after the snowfalls of November every real St. Louisan ate a few crawfish every week."

In 1910 this abundance had diminished to such an extent that a mandate was issued by the State Fish and Game officials which put a stop to angling in the city's waters. The crawfish multiplies so rapidly, however, that it will doubtless soon replenish the waters, and once more there will be parts of St. Louis and other cities where the evening air will be "laden with the unmistakable odor of boiling crawfish."

Of the great variety of crabs peculiar to our waters the one which most appeals to epicures is the "soft shell," which, when very soft, is eaten skin, bones, and all. But wait—there is another kind, still more delicate and toothsome—the oyster crab. It dwells within the mantle chamber and feeds on the juices of the oyster. No wonder it tastes good. Fortunately, it is not one of the many enemies of the bivalve, being quite harmless. Its scarcity, combined with its diminutive size, makes it a luxury comparable to the old Roman millionaire's dish of nightingale tongues.

A foreigner looking at an American bill of fare is struck first of all by the number of ways in which oysters are listed: raw, stewed, fried, steamed, baked in the shell, scalloped, creamed, and so on; and by the fact that the locality from which the oysters that are served raw are supposed to come is named—Blue Point, Shrewsbury, Rockaway, Buzzard's Bay, Cape Cod, Norfolk, Saddle Rock, etc. In this matter there is, to be sure, much deception. It has become customary, in particular, to give the name of Blue Point to any small oyster, and to call any kind of large size a Saddle Rock; while many a worthless floated oyster masquerades under the name of the juicy and delicious Lynnhaven.

The oyster cracker, and the soda cracker in general, is an American specialty which Europeans will doubtless adopt some day as tasty, nutritious and easily digested additions to the dietary. As sold now, in dust and moisture-proof packages, they will easily find their way to foreign stomachs.

Clam chowder, steamed soft clams, and raw Littlenecks are among the delicacies an American misses in Europe.

As for our scallop, Paderewski thinks it is the best edible thing America produces. Many other epicures doubtless agree with him.

As seen in our markets the scallop is simply the abductor muscle of the bivalve. The remainder of the body is thrown away or used as fertilizer, though much of it is tender and of fine Flavor. Nor is this wastefulness the only cause for complaint. The best scallops are small; they are expensive, and the dealers, knowing that by soaking them they can bloat a pint of them till they fill a quart, subject them to this "freshening," which as thoroughly takes all the marine Flavor out of them as "floating" takes it out of the oyster. In this condition, too, they spoil sooner and become dangerous to eat. I agree with F. Powers that "a man who soaks scallops and then offers them for sale should be imprisoned."

The scallop dredgers were among the first to take advantage of the new parcel post, which enables them to send the unspoiled mollusc to any one within a reasonable distance.

Concerning our fishes it is easy to say that the finest-flavored are the shad, the whitefish, the Chinook salmon, the rainbow trout; but when you happen to be eating a baby bluefish or a Spanish mackerel just out of the water, you may change your mind for the time being; you are sure to do this, also, if you happen to be in New Orleans and eat fresh pompano as prepared by a Creole cook. The sheepshead, the smelt, the catfish, the sturgeon, the halibut, are excellent; and so is the swordfish, which is far too little known among gourmets. Its flesh might be more tender, but it has a fine Flavor, suggesting a combination of salmon and halibut.

It is for the cod, however, that I wish to plead most earnestly. Some persons (usually persistent smokers, or individuals whose sense of smell is not well developed) maintain that the cod is "tasteless." As a matter of fact it has a subtle but most delicious Flavor which, when the fish is fresh, reminds me of the flesh of crawfish.

At present (1913) the cod enjoys the advantage of being the only fish, with the exception of trout, that can be bought alive in the markets of New York. "Live cod," when listed on restaurant menus, is in great demand. It is not always equally good, however, because much of the "live cod" is really live hake, which is far inferior in Flavor. The substitution of haddock for cod is less objectionable. Much of the salted and dried fish which goes into the typically American codfish balls, is also cod in name only. Dealers who use benzoate of soda or other chemicals to preserve it, give elaborate directions for soaking them out. It is needless to say that this soaking process also takes out all the Flavor.